Spike's upcoming eBIAB system

[k-os]

That's my big concern. I think the 20 gallon setup might just be too big for 5 gallon batches.

Assuming they have the element at the same height as the element in my 20 gallon kettle from them I would agree. It's at about the 4.5 gallon mark in my 20 gallon kettle.

 

[sleev-les]

That's my big concern. I think the 20 gallon setup might just be too big for 5 gallon batches.

No way I can see doing 5G in the 20. The first Youtube vid that was posted here showed 6 gallons of water, but only about 2 inch high in the basket. No way you could get a grain bill in that little bit of water I would think.

 

[craigmw]

No way I can see doing 5G in the 20. The first Youtube vid that was posted here showed 6 gallons of water, but only about 2 inch high in the basket. No way you could get a grain bill in that little bit of water I would think.

In my standard BIAB 5 gallon sessions using a 20 gallon Concord tri-clad bottomed kettle, I usually use about 8-9 gallons of strike water for full volume mashes and end up with about 5.5-6 gallons into the kettle, so it might work. You could always use more strike water and then have an extended boil to hit whatever final volume is needed. I usually do 10 (actually 11.5) gallon batches, but my "5 gallon" batches work out fine. On my BrewBuilt 22 gallon eBIAB system, I've done one "5 gallon" batch with a strike of 9.5 gallons and this worked out fine despite the fact that my BIAB bag is held inside a steamer pot that is at about 3" above the bottom of the kettle (about 5 gallon mark). I had plenty of space for the grain in this full volume mash session.

For me, the extra volume gained with a 22 gallon kettle is that I have the flexibility to do 5, 10 and 15 gallon batches if I so desire.

 

[sleev-les]

In my standard BIAB 5 gallon sessions using a 20 gallon Concord tri-clad bottomed kettle, I usually use about 8-9 gallons of strike water for full volume mashes and end up with about 5.5-6 gallons into the kettle, so it might work. You could always use more strike water and then have an extended boil to hit whatever final volume is needed. I usually do 10 (actually 11.5) gallon batches, but my "5 gallon" batches work out fine. On my BrewBuilt 22 gallon eBIAB system, I've done one "5 gallon" batch with a strike of 9.5 gallons and this worked out fine despite the fact that my BIAB bag is held inside a steamer pot that is at about 3" above the bottom of the kettle (about 5 gallon mark). I had plenty of space for the grain in this full volume mash session.

For me, the extra volume gained with a 22 gallon kettle is that I have the flexibility to do 5, 10 and 15 gallon batches if I so desire.

I can't remember which video, but I believe its the member on this forum that post reviews stated he might try a 5 gallon batch. I wasn't ever planning on trying a 5 gallon since I'm keeping my Grainfather for 5 gallons and my experimental brews. Plus when I go to the Spike BIAB system, it won't just be the system I have to buy, I'd need a 10 gallon fermenter too haha..

 

[9Kegs]

These were in an email from Spike today:


Introducing, the Spike Solo!

 

[jdudek]

Not to thread jack but do either of you have links to more details on your system? I’ve been thinking about going electric and wondering if I could manage with an induction hot plate or go the full electric kettle route.

I documented a full ebiab build including building the controller myself (more or less a lose copy of the cube mentioned above) at this website.
www.electricbrewinabag.com
have a look! My setup is 120V/20A. for 5G batches, it's more than adequate.

 

[Flathill]

WILL the new Spike BIAB Solo 20 gal basket require a mesh bag or just put the grains in the metal basket ? Also will the upper basket handle be able to be connected to a overhead lift cable if desired. Interested in learning the biab system. Currently have a 20 gal concord kettle. I need to check the diameter measurements as not sure if Spike is showing inside or outside measurements.

 

[sleev-les]

WILL the new Spike BIAB Solo 20 gal basket require a mesh bag or just put the grains in the metal basket ? Also will the upper basket handle be able to be connected to a overhead lift cable if desired. Interested in learning the biab system. Currently have a 20 gal concord kettle. I need to check the diameter measurements as not sure if Spike is showing inside or outside measurements.

No mesh bag needed. You might be able to rig up a pully system. The videos up show it being lifted by hand.

 

[Matt Orabella]

Shortcircuitedbrewer has several videos on the spike solo on youtube. I believe he does both a 10G and a 5G batch in his videos.

 

[Flathill]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

 

[k-os]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

As mentioned above, check out the videos from Short Circuited Brewers and BEER-N-BBQ By Larry. All your questions are answered in there.

 

[Yesfan]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

Once thing I could probably tell you, butterfly vs ball valve is ease of cleaning. I have a couple of fermenters now that have butterfly valves. While I haven't logged in enough use to go ahead and break those valves down, I'm assuming (hoping?) they are easier to break down and reassemble than a 3 piece NPT threaded ball valve. I've broken/reassembled my ball valves enough to know I hate it. The teflon tape never comes off the threads as easy as wrapping them.

Makes me take a much harder look at Spike's v4 kettles with the tri-clamps fittings.

 

[Bobby_M]

What is the purpose of the butterfly valve at the top of the Spike solo basket ? I know it is used to recirculate the mash water but could a ball valve do the same ? Does the valve inlet just go through the top area of the basket and then let's the liquid mash just drop over the grain bed or does it some how distribute the water in a circle or in a divided spray pattern. Just trying to learn more about BIAB before I decide on the system componets to add to my 20 gallon kettle with a rims electric element for recirculation. The Spike Solo seems like it could work.

The purpose in the Spike system is to throttle the recirculation speed since it's the first valve after the pump. Butterfly valves really are not the right tool for that job though as the indexed valve positions are too far apart for linear flow control. Unless they change it before release, the wort return on the inside of the basket is a barb for a short piece of silicone hose that you lay on the top of the grain. I prefer using locline for that.

 

[MarkyMarc]

Unless they change it before release, the wort return on the inside of the basket is a barb for a short piece of silicone hose that you lay on the top of the grain.

It looks like they are using one of their short tri clamp pickup tubes with a silicone hose over the pickup side for wort return.

 

[pretzelb]

As an owner of an older Nanobrew from Colorado Brewing I'm a bit suspect of baskets with hard sides when it comes to re-circulation. I will have to watch some videos to see how it goes.

 

[jdudek]

As an owner of an older Nanobrew from Colorado Brewing I'm a bit suspect of baskets with hard sides when it comes to re-circulation. I will have to watch some videos to see how it goes.

can you elaborate on your suspicion? I would have though basket with hard sides are the right way to do this. My thinking ia that the mash will flow in the dead space between the basket and the kettle wall rather than flowing through the grain, the former being the path of least resistance. The hard walls would force the water through the grain bed...I have no data on this, so curious to know what your experience with hard wall basket is.

 

[ahariton]

Question for those brewing indoors: what do you do to handle the inevitable drips, leaks, spills? My setup will be in a room with wood laminate flooring and no floor drain. How big of an issue is that? Any thoughts on how to best protect the floor from the inevitable?

I'm transitioning from outdoor biab, so want to make sure I'm thinking through everything up front.

Thanks

Andy

 

[cheesebach]

As an owner of an older Nanobrew from Colorado Brewing I'm a bit suspect of baskets with hard sides when it comes to re-circulation. I will have to watch some videos to see how it goes.

Have you looked at the Unibrau eBIAB system? The Unibrau V3 system has solid sides for the grain basket and I haven't seen many if any issues of stuck mashes with that system. Also, the grainfather grain pipe uses solid sidewalls, albeit with an overflow pipe down the center. Personally, I'd like to have some assurance that the recirc is actually passing through the grain bed rather than around it, but I could see where having some overflow path the recirc can take if the flow through the bed becomes too slow would be good to have to prevent the element from running dry.

 

[MarkyMarc]

Question for those brewing indoors: what do you do to handle the inevitable drips, leaks, spills? My setup will be in a room with wood laminate flooring and no floor drain. How big of an issue is that? Any thoughts on how to best protect the floor from the inevitable?

I'm transitioning from outdoor bias, so want to make sure I'm thinking through everything up front.

Thanks

Andy

I'm also going to be moving to an area with wood laminate flooring. I was thinking a washing machine pan under my kettle cart might be the way to go.

Something like this.

 

[ahariton]

I'm also going to be moving to an area with wood laminate flooring. I was thinking a washing machine pan under my kettle cart might be the way to go.

Something like this.

I like the washing machine pan idea!

Any good suggestions for a cart/table?

 

[MarkyMarc]

I like the washing machine pan idea!

Any good suggestions for a cart/table?

I built a small cart but if you don't want to do that then a 24" prep table like this one would work well.

 

[pretzelb]

can you elaborate on your suspicion? I would have though basket with hard sides are the right way to do this. My thinking ia that the mash will flow in the dead space between the basket and the kettle wall rather than flowing through the grain, the former being the path of least resistance. The hard walls would force the water through the grain bed...I have no data on this, so curious to know what your experience with hard wall basket is.

I've had a hard time with the hard sided basket that came with my system due to the restricted flow. I kept chasing after it with rice hulls until I finally got fed up and switched to a false bottom and bag. It still requires some management but it seems to work better.

The issue in my mind is with the heating element you have to suspend the grains above it no matter what you use. That means less water per grain ratio which can result in a very compact grain bed that restricts flow heavily. The one system that looks to avoid that issue is SS Brewtech where a bag can sit right on the element and not get burned due to a different style of element they use.

Having said that I watched one video brewing on that system and it appeared to flow fine for that one time.

 

[NewJersey]

I have that SS brewtech 1V. I do biab with it and can confirm that it 100% does nothing to the bag at all. I also recirculate during the mash with their recirculation manifold

 

[Beer-lord]

Spike just sent initial pricing on the 20 gallon BIAB basket or system:

20g Basket and 20g Full System Initial Pricing*
[may be subject to change before launch]
Product Price
20g NPT Basket Only
Basket +single NPT fitting on top $300
20g TC Basket Only
Basket +single TC fitting on top $325
20g NPT Full System
Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware, Chiller optional. $1,775
20g TC Full System
Kettle, Basket, Controller, Pump and Hardware. Chiller optional.
$1,975

If the 15 gallon is proportionally cheaper (i.e., under $1500 with the controller, pump, and hardware included), it might be a tempting one-stop, high end solution for my typical 5+ gallon batches.

I don't doubt the quality is superb but I think the prices are a bit high. Just my 2 cents. Besides building your own setup, there are less expensive options that make great beer just like Spike's system obviously will.
But man, is it sexy!

 

[Telegraph]

Longtime lurking around here but... +1 for a pre-order this morning, anyone else taking the plunge? Did you go with the pump option (its a yes/no)? Anyone else notice they are out of Chillers?

 

[Punx Clever]

I was going to pre-order the one with tri-clamps... but got there too late.

For the price difference on the pump ($180)... it made more sense to forgo the spike pump and spend the money for a new riptide from blichmann ($200)

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I like the washing machine pan idea!

Any good suggestions for a cart/table?

I use one of these. It can be adjusted up and down. I like my table fairly low when doughing in or pulling the bag. The one I have is 52" and has a couple drawers, which are nice for storing things like refractometer and other brew day related items. I can also roll it out of the way to clean under it or adjust to make sure it's centered under my block and tackle when pulling the bag.

 

[Telegraph]

I was going to pre-order the one with tri-clamps... but got there too late.

For the price difference on the pump ($180)... it made more sense to forgo the spike pump and spend the money for a new riptide from blichmann ($200)

That’s exactly what I did, ordered a riptide and camlocks from brewhardware.

Not to go too off topic (sorry) I was surprised at how hard I had to look for a new chiller though the only place that still had any was Duda

 

[Punx Clever]

That’s exactly what I did, ordered a riptide and camlocks from brewhardware.

Not to go too off topic (sorry) I was surprised at how hard I had to look for a new chiller though the only place that still had any was Duda

Managed to get in on the second pre-order. Unfortunately they only had the "with pump" option in stock. Oh well, I'll send the spike pump on it's way with my current 3v rig and keep my riptide/chugger bastard pump.

Gonna look funny with blichman-style quick-thread fittings on one end of the tubes, and ball-lock QD fittings on the other though

 

[pdcm]

I'm excited to start seeing these in the hands of people. That's not to say that the reviewers who had prototypes weren't useful at all, but it's just different when more people start to use it. I'm looking forward to the 10 or 15g version, myself.