Spike Solo Owner's Thread

[Redbud Homebrewing]

I brewed my first batch last weekend.
I use the 15 Gallon solo on a gas burner. I‘ve read this thread prior purchasing the solo and was aware of some experience grains falling through ... so I bought a brew bag as a lot of you. But I don’t like the fit of the brew bag in the basket.
So I end up using my old 12“ false bottom, an old grain bag (custom sewed by my wife ) and a 10G brewbuilt false bottom gasket. This gasket fits perfectly and I won’t have to use the brewbag. I didn’t have any issues with grains falling through...
Mash efficiency was 65%, let’s see how much more is possible with the next brewdays. For recirculation I use a custom welded ball valve/ dip tube from @Bobby_M and attached my old CPVC manifold ... still locking for a better way (something like picture 4 would be perfect)

 

[NewJersey]

Ready for the 3/4 whirlpool/ 1/4 recirculation now. Need to see how many gpm that comes out to now

 

[Oceangrace24]

I'm joining the Spike Solo+ 20 gal. club as of this morning. Looking forward to reading through this thread again and learning all I can before my system arrives.

 

[Biggz1313]

I'm joining the Spike Solo+ 20 gal. club as of this morning. Looking forward to reading through this thread again and learning all I can before my system arrives.

Welcome friend! Lots of good discussion in this thread so far. Definitely feel free to chime in with experiences of your own once you have them as we'd all like to learn from each others successes and mistakes!

 

[NewJersey]

I ordered and recieved my 15 gallon solo a few weeks ago. I'm now waiting on my 2nf replacement kettle as it seems they cannot ship these without damage. Lol, poor packaging.
Oceangrace24, welcome to the club!

 

[Fidelity101]

Once the weight of the autosparge is on it, maybe it won't turn. Set it up and just keep lifting the float upwards to full closure over and over to see if it eventually turns.

Do you have a list of components needed to make the AutoSparge work with the Spike Solo? I have the 20g TC version and I'd like to buy the parts but I see there are several ways to accomplish the task.

 

[Bobby_M]

Just this fitting: 1.5'' TC Friction Fit x 1/2'' Female NPT Adapter (Press Fit)

 

[NewJersey]

Brewed yesterday and loved the solo.
Of course, I totally screwed up right from the start of brewing. Up until 3 batches ago I've just had my lhbs mill my grains and then I come directly home and dump em into my waiting prepped/heated mash water. Been doing this for 8 years now.
So, naturally I dumped 2/3 of the grain in and then realized what I had done, stopped, and pulled the basket out.
I actually laughed. I milled the dry grains I had and then milled the soggy grains too. It looked like it sorta "hurt" the grains but they were far from correctly milled. I then proceeded with my brew day.
63% mash efficiency.
This doesn't mean anything to me tho and I look forward to finding out what kinda numbers I hit with a real crush.
That said I ended up at 1.053 after the boil rather than the beersmith predicted 1.063.
Beersmith was, however, DEAD on with all water/wort volumes. 6 gallons into the fermenter almost exactly.
Because 2/3 of my grains were merely bruised u had no issue with stuck recirculation.
The mash temp was consistently 2⁰F lower than what the solo was reading. This made it easy as I just turned up the solo controller 2⁰. I continued to check temps during the mash, but don't think it'll be necessary in the future.

 

[NewJersey]

I can make that happen.

How much?
That'd be nice

 

[NewJersey]

Ho do you guys with solos and RO water filters fill the kettle?
Before brew day?
Just check on it every so often?

 

[Bobby_M]

clamp over float valve.

 

[Punx Clever]

Ho do you guys with solos and RO water filters fill the kettle?
Before brew day?
Just check on it every so often?

Day before. I get 4-6 gph out of my RO unit. Usually brew on Saturdays, so get home from work on Friday, set up system, start filling water, check on it every couple of hours while I do chores, cook dinner, etc.

 

[Bobby_M]

Day before. I get 4-6 gph out of my RO unit. Usually brew on Saturdays, so get home from work on Friday, set up system, start filling water, check on it every couple of hours while I do chores, cook dinner, etc.

View attachment 723992

This is a recipe for a flood. If it hasn't happened yet, you've just been lucky but you will one day get distracted.

$5 float valve Plastic Float Valve For Reverse Osmosis RO System#SP-FV
$18 stainless clamp over mount (or make something DIY) PT-FVBS Stainless adjustable Float valve bracket kit small

 

[Biggz1313]

This is a recipe for a flood. If it hasn't happened yet, you've just been lucky but you will one day get distracted.

$5 float valve Plastic Float Valve For Reverse Osmosis RO System#SP-FV
$18 stainless clamp over mount (or make something DIY) PT-FVBS Stainless adjustable Float valve bracket kit small

As someone who recently flooded my laundry room/ with probably 25-50gallons of water while filling a 5 gallon cube, that inevitably leaked into my basement, I would have gladly payed the $23 mentioned here to not have to do that clean up, removal of drywall in my basement ceiling, etc.

Brewed yesterday and loved the solo.
Of course, I totally screwed up right from the start of brewing. Up until 3 batches ago I've just had my lhbs mill my grains and then I come directly home and dump em into my waiting prepped/heated mash water. Been doing this for 8 years now.
So, naturally I dumped 2/3 of the grain in and then realized what I had done, stopped, and pulled the basket out.
I actually laughed. I milled the dry grains I had and then milled the soggy grains too. It looked like it sorta "hurt" the grains but they were far from correctly milled. I then proceeded with my brew day.
63% mash efficiency.
This doesn't mean anything to me tho and I look forward to finding out what kinda numbers I hit with a real crush.
That said I ended up at 1.053 after the boil rather than the beersmith predicted 1.063.
Beersmith was, however, DEAD on with all water/wort volumes. 6 gallons into the fermenter almost exactly.
Because 2/3 of my grains were merely bruised u had no issue with stuck recirculation.
The mash temp was consistently 2⁰F lower than what the solo was reading. This made it easy as I just turned up the solo controller 2⁰. I continued to check temps during the mash, but don't think it'll be necessary in the future.

I'm not going to lie, but that foil wrapped 240V plug has me worried for you man. I would consider wrapping that in something that isn't conductive if you're worried about getting anything on the plug.

 

[NewJersey]

As someone who recently flooded my laundry room/ with probably 25-50gallons of water while filling a 5 gallon cube, that inevitably leaked into my basement, I would have gladly payed the $23 mentioned here to not have to do that clean up, removal of drywall in my basement ceiling, etc.

I'm not going to lie, but that foil wrapped 240V plug has me worried for you man. I would consider wrapping that in something that isn't conductive if you're worried about getting anything on the plug.

You know, I honestly just wasn't thinking straight. I had it sitting on the table and it was the right size, so I just laid it on there. Bad move.

This is a recipe for a flood. If it hasn't happened yet, you've just been lucky but you will one day get distracted.

$5 float valve Plastic Float Valve For Reverse Osmosis RO System#SP-FV
$18 stainless clamp over mount (or make something DIY) PT-FVBS Stainless adjustable Float valve bracket kit small

You're a real homebrewing hero. That is the elegant solution I was hoping existed.

 

[Punx Clever]

This is a recipe for a flood. If it hasn't happened yet, you've just been lucky but you will one day get distracted.

Based on that, I suspect that you'd also say that checking on my smoker every couple hours or so while cooking up a brisket is a recipe for a catastrophic fire.

Nah, I disagree. I took the time to figure out what my production rate is on my RO system and check on it several times throughout the fill to confirm liquid level and production rate. At ~5gph with final volumes between 14 and 20 gallons it is plenty safe.

I have no trouble keeping track of multiple processes at the same time, especially when one of them is relatively slow, like a home-brew scale RO system.

 

[Bobby_M]

Based on that, I suspect that you'd also say that checking on my smoker every couple hours or so while cooking up a brisket is a recipe for a catastrophic fire.

Nah, I disagree. I took the time to figure out what my production rate is on my RO system and check on it several times throughout the fill to confirm liquid level and production rate. At ~5gph with final volumes between 14 and 20 gallons it is plenty safe.

I have no trouble keeping track of multiple processes at the same time, especially when one of them is relatively slow, like a home-brew scale RO system.

I dont have any opinions on what you do with your smoker. Every person I know that once collected brewing RO like you are doing has flooded some room at least once. Knowing there is a less risky way to do it, for a small investment, but not doing it doesnt make you brave.

 

[Oceangrace24]

I've already sent Spike an email asking for advice, but I thought I would ask everyone here in case someone might know what is going on.
My Solo+ system arrived today. I had my electrician friend over to install the 240 circuit to run the system.
I have a shed that I am brewing in that has a subpanel feeding from the garage.
He ran 10/3 wire from the subpanel to a 50amp Spa Panel so we could have the GFCI breaker in the spa panel.
Connected the Spa Panel to a 14-30 outlet.
He plugged in the controller and with everything turned on, he tested all the outlets on the Panel with a meter.
The problem is that we are showing 240v out of the pump and Acc outlet. The outlet for the Element is showing 120v.
These should be reversed, correct? Did he wire something incorrectly between the subpanel, spa panel and outlet, or is there something wrong with the controller?

 

[Bobby_M]

10/3 Romex or some kind of SJ cord? If it was romex, that would be correctly 4 wires. If not, you need 4 wires to feed 14-30.

 

[Oceangrace24]

10/3 romex is what was used.

 

[Bobby_M]

The reasonable explanation is that somewhere a hot and neutral got flipped and that can be in your wiring or in the controller box itself. Start by probing your 14-30 receptacle with a volt meter. This is what you should get. 240v between the left and right. 120v between the top and either left or right and also 120v between the bottom and either left or right. Posting each of your readings in all those scenarios, if it's not as I described, can reveal how it's mixed up.

 

[Oceangrace24]

We did all that and got the correct readings for each part. That means it has to be in the control panel I guess? Hopefully Spike has an answer tomorrow.

 

[Bobby_M]

Spike will likely want to swap the controller out for you but it would be easy enough to trace the lines to figure out where it went wrong. It may be right on the line input socket. I guess it depends on your patience.

 

[vindee]

I've already sent Spike an email asking for advice, but I thought I would ask everyone here in case someone might know what is going on.
My Solo+ system arrived today. I had my electrician friend over to install the 240 circuit to run the system.
I have a shed that I am brewing in that has a subpanel feeding from the garage.
He ran 10/3 wire from the subpanel to a 50amp Spa Panel so we could have the GFCI breaker in the spa panel.
Connected the Spa Panel to a 14-30 outlet.
He plugged in the controller and with everything turned on, he tested all the outlets on the Panel with a meter.
The problem is that we are showing 240v out of the pump and Acc outlet. The outlet for the Element is showing 120v.
These should be reversed, correct? Did he wire something incorrectly between the subpanel, spa panel and outlet, or is there something wrong with the controller?

Almost sounds like without a neutral to the controller you will have unpredictable results. You will need neutral for proper 120 volts and the ground for obvious reasons.
Spike will tell you you need to run 4-wire for this setup.

EDIT: I didn't read everything here. If you ran 10/3 with a ground then your cabling is good. Refer to the other posts here.

 

[RogerGrahl]

I have brewed 13 batches in my Solo with a Spike condenser lid. The learning curve was steep, but my process is now repeatable and under control. OG and FG are matching Brewsmith’s estimates exactly (that’s probably luck, not skill). I get a very pronounced trub cone in the whirlpool. My wort is clear with little or no grain. My mash doesn’t get stuck. My efficiency is equal to my old picnic cooler setup. Brewing indoors out of the wind and weather makes brew day a lot more pleasant. Cleanup is easy...not fun...but easy. All in all, this is a fantastic piece of equipment that works great. I am down to one remaining issue...or it may not really be an issue at all. I get a lot more foaming with the condenser lid than I used to with an open brew kettle. This causes a lot of hop matter to stick to the side of the brew kettle just above the wort level. Does anybody else have this problem? Is it even a problem? Is there a solution if it is a problem? My beer tastes better than ever so that might be the answer. Thanks, everybody, who posts on this forum. Your ideas, observations, and knowledge are a big help.

 

[user 295610]

I have brewed 13 batches in my Solo with a Spike condenser lid. The learning curve was steep, but my process is now repeatable and under control. OG and FG are matching Brewsmith’s estimates exactly (that’s probably luck, not skill). I get a very pronounced trub cone in the whirlpool. My wort is clear with little or no grain. My mash doesn’t get stuck. My efficiency is equal to my old picnic cooler setup. Brewing indoors out of the wind and weather makes brew day a lot more pleasant. Cleanup is easy...not fun...but easy. All in all, this is a fantastic piece of equipment that works great. I am down to one remaining issue...or it may not really be an issue at all. I get a lot more foaming with the condenser lid than I used to with an open brew kettle. This causes a lot of hop matter to stick to the side of the brew kettle just above the wort level. Does anybody else have this problem? Is it even a problem? Is there a solution if it is a problem? My beer tastes better than ever so that might be the answer. Thanks, everybody, who posts on this forum. Your ideas, observations, and knowledge are a big help.

I've only done four batches with my condensing lid, but I'm able to turn the PID down to 28% and still keep a rolling boil without any foam. What are you setting your PID at after you get a boil?

 

[RogerGrahl]

I've only done four batches with my condensing lid, but I'm able to turn the PID down to 28% and still keep a rolling boil without any foam. What are you setting your PID at after you get a boil?

I’m at 60% power in manual mode once the boil gets started. Do you know your evaporation rate at 28% power? I measured mine and am at 1.25 gallons per hour at 60%. Reducing power further sounds like a good thing to try. Thanks!

 

[user 295610]

I’m at 60% power in manual mode once the boil gets started. Do you know your evaporation rate at 28% power? I measured mine and am at 1.25 gallons per hour at 60%. Reducing power further sounds like a good thing to try. Thanks!

I have the Solo 10 gallon and the evaporation rate is between 0.5 - 0.6 gal/hr.

 

[Oceangrace24]

Well, we found the issue with the electrical causing my issues in my controller. My 240 outlet was wired correctly by my electrician.

Spike put me in touch with ebrewsupply. They walked me through opening up the panel. We found that the black hot wire and the white common wire were reversed. Evidently they just hired a new QC person who missed it.

He walked me through changing them back to being correct. Looks like the contactors are most likely blown so they are shipping me out those parts and a couple more to make sure we get everything right.

All the parts inside the controller are all industry standard to make any repairs easier.

While it's a bummer it was not correct, really happy with Spike and Ebrewsupply with the response and help with the issue.

Glad my electrician actually tested the panel or I most likely would have plugged in the pump and fried it and needed a replacement.

Sounds like it was just a one off incident.

Hope to be brewing soon!

 

[Switchback]

That was something I experienced too. Got set up to use the Blichmann AutoSparge from my 3v system in the basket... no more over-run mash for me.

That's 40lbs of grain to run a partigyle for 5g of Rye Wine and 10g of Rye Mild. I've use loc-line off of the autosparge for smaller grain bills, but this was a good picture of how it sits in the basket.

How did you get the Blichmann autosparge connected to the triclamp basket? I just ordered a Solo 15 and would like to do that but haven't figured on the connections yet.