Spike Solo Owner's Thread

[brewman !]

Here's how to build a sight gauge. Costs about $15 and takes an hour or so. It uses 1/2" poly carbonate racking cane. Doesn't stain easily, tough, readily available and cheap to replace.

 

[brewman !]

No leaks.

You can back flush it after brewing a dark beer by putting a hose over the open end and circulating PBW through it. Takes less time than disassembliing a TC fitting and washing it by hand.

 

[Matt Orabella]

Did another brew on the solo!

Much smoother sailing this time around.

Brewfather

I added a SSbrewtech mash manifold and a Brew-Bag 400 micron this time around.

First time using the steam slayer and newly installed winch. Also first time using no hop spider and whirlpooling!

I used the hose-whirlpool sightglass trick during mash, which worked pretty well!

Everything worked out well!

 

[PINbeer]

Appreciating all the posts. I'm 4 batches in and did spring for a CF wort chiller - specifically the Exchillerator. Love it! Amazing to go straight into the fermenter at pitching temps. I'm sure the Spike version is great, but the Exchillerator is much cheaper and works great.

Regarding the rising water level during the mash. I've watched this more carefully and haven't really had an issue, though I have scraped the bottom a bit during the first part of the mash. On a fluke I was re-reading the FAQs on the Spike site regarding a stuck mash. Not sure if this is a new addition or I just missed it the first time, but it says:

• When mashing in, turn the pump off before pouring in your grain. After stirring in the grain, let the grain bed rest 5-10mins before turning on the pump. This allows the grain to fully absorb the liquid and expand which prevents grain from going through the baskets bottom filter.

I haven't been doing this, but will definitely try it in the future. I'm also going to send Spike a question about rice hulls. They aren't needed ideally, but do they actually cause an issue? My next batch is a hazy w/ flaked wheat, so I'm a bit anxious.

I'm intrigued by Rubberband's solution on recirculation outflow. I feel like the current design puts the recirculation only in a very specific spot on one side of the kettle, especially when you have to run the pump at only 25% as is recommended. Wondering if that's impacting my efficiency (which isn't great). Anyone using other options that you would recommend that get the recirculation outflow more evenly distributed or at least more centered?

Still thinking about exhaust options. I'm really close on the Condenser Lid. Just have 2 concerns that I'm struggling to get comfortable with. But the condenser lid is a different thread, so I'll save the discussion for there.

 

[PINbeer]

Update: Heard back from Spike on the rice hulls. Very fast and professional reply. I won't quote it here since it was a direct mail to me, but the gist was that (a) they aren't necessary based on the design and (b) they don't test with them. My interpretation is that there was nothing specific that they know would be problematic, but they don't recommend since they haven't be tested and they just aren't required. Couldn't imagine what harm could be done by them, but just wanted to be sure. I'll reserve the right to ignore this advice in the future , but for now I'll trust and throw in my flaked wheat without the rice hulls in my next batch.

Also, realized when I returned to this thread that Spike had mentioned the 5-10 min rest approach on page 2 of the topic and I hadn't noticed. So maybe this is a good reinforcement for anyone who missed it the first time.

 

[jmc1010ku]

Has anyone tried making a sight glass for the Spike solo?

I was thinking of using this and attaching some silicone tube secured to the handles on the grain basket.
https://www.brewershardware.com/1-1...-with-90-Bend-TC15B58-90.html?category_id=276

I essentially have a Spike Trio and had them install custom TC ports. I use these sight glass valves and 3/4" borosilicate (pyrex) glass that i got from glacier tanks. They work really well and easy to soak/clean afterwards. You probably don't need the top valve. I think it would take a lot of force to knock it over if you only used the bottom valve with open top. You could put it on the end of the whirlpool valve during mash. An option for less than $100.
Sight Level Valves | Tri Clamp 1.5 in. - Upper - SS304

ps: i'm thinking about getting the Spike basket and switching from the 3V Herms to save time

 

[csmurdock]

That was something I experienced too. Got set up to use the Blichmann AutoSparge from my 3v system in the basket... no more over-run mash for me.

That's 40lbs of grain to run a partigyle for 5g of Rye Wine and 10g of Rye Mild. I've use loc-line off of the autosparge for smaller grain bills, but this was a good picture of how it sits in the basket.

What length auto sparge rod is that?

 

[NewJersey]

Anybody think these go on sale again on black friday 21?

 

[Punx Clever]

What length auto sparge rod is that?

Stock length

 

[Punx Clever]

Put together a brown ale today. I've come to the conclusion that the solo basket really needs a bag in it to shine. Made 77-78% efficiency into the fermenter without any silly tricks (long mash, lots of stirring, long boil, etc). The bag allows a very fine crush without getting a bunch of solids to the element.

 

[mp.shannon]

Take this for what it's worth. I've only been brewing for 11 months and have 25, 5g batches under my belt. Switched from BIAB to the Spike basket with propane. I have 7 spike basket batches complete. Each batch I've increased my efficiency. First batch was awful at 62% but yesterday's batch was 78% without any effort trying to 'press' the grains for those final drippings or volume. I have started using enzymes. I do a fresh water sparge with ~170 degree water to arrive to the expected pre-boil wort volume. Normally about a gallon to a gallon and a half of sparge water.

Keg King 3-Roller Grain mill. One pass. I don't have a gauge, but estimate based on the Keg King dial somewhere around .035. (One credit card (.0299") will slip in without touching rollers, two credit cards (.05984") need to be 'forced' between.

I have modified my pump recirculation by placing a 3-way valve on my whrilpool TC. Therefore, I am returning wort over the grains but also underneath the basket simultaneously. The flow under the basket, helps stir up and remove a majority of grains that do slip through the baskets false bottom. If I ever do go electric, this supposedly will help me not to scorch an element. (First couple of batches without this modification resulted in close to cup of grains pulled from the wort through a kitchen chinois. (See below))

PROCESS
Mash water to strike temperature with recirculating pump on. Revert pump to under the basket as I dough-in, verify I have no dough balls, let it sit for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, I do a quick temperature check and have found there is a significant temperature difference between the center of the grain bed and the walls. (I do keep propane low flame lit during mash.) perform a quick stir trying NOT to scrape the bottom of the basket. Temperature check, start ultra slow recirculation, lid and leave it alone for 15 minutes. I'll take a peak around the 25m mark, check flow and for stuck mash. If it's a slow/stuck mash, I'll perform a quick stir. Lid it and leave it be.

Been performing iodine conversion tests around 45 minutes with completion results.

Hoist basket above wort level to continue vorlauf. Modify recirculation flow rate to only flow over grain create a situation where I do NOT have a layer of wort on top of grain bed. I then further lift the basket so I can get a paddle in to stir the wort. Stiring the wort, while the basket is lifted and still recirculating assists in removing much of the grain that may have passed through the false bottom. (Not all, just most).

Once I've vorlaufed and feel my wort is a clear/clean as possible. Pump re-routed to whirlpool only. Raise the basket, well above kettle allow it to continue to drip into kettle. At this point I'll sparge. I'll remove my basket supply hose and run that through a kitchen chinois for a few minutes, again while stirring the wort. This results in about a <1/4 cup of grain being removed and what I believe is as 'clean' wort as possible. (This process is not for the LODO brewers out there).

I leave the basket hanging for those final dripping over the kettle until the final 15 minutes of the boil, it's removed as I begin the sterilization of the chiller, pump, hoses, etc.

 

[mp.shannon]

Is that a STOUT SS Counter Flow Chiller. I've just started looking at those. If so, do you whirlpool through it? If so, what pump?

 

[Matt Orabella]

I recently picked up a few valves to make a 3 way valve setup for mashing and bypassing my exchillerator during whirlpool. I also plan to try my next batch with a bag and a finer grind.

My 2nd batch with the SSbrewtech mash manifold well. Not rocking crazy efficiency yet, but I am really enjoying the spike system and 240V in general.

 

[TheToE]

I'm about 6 brews in on the solo 20g. I cannot for the life of me break 63% mash efficiency. I've tried everything, 10 min rest, stirring every 10 minutes, faster/slow recirc, crushed all the way down to .35. I don't get it.

 

[NewJersey]

Are you guys pressing the basket?
I squeezed the bag sometimes and didn't others brewing biab. I plan to press the basket for sure.
Also on the grains in the bk issue has anyone ever done a 10 minute vorlauf with a tc inline filter? I already own one that I use when kegging but figured it could be worthwhile for this purpose as well. Crazy? Good idea?
I wanna start with no bag and on spike's recommend crush first. See how it goes.
Pic is the filter in question. It's just ss mesh inside.

 

[Matt Orabella]

I have a

Are you guys pressing the basket?
I squeezed the bag sometimes and didn't others brewing biab. I plan to press the basket for sure.
Also on the grains in the bk issue has anyone ever done a 10 minute vorlauf with a tc inline filter? I already own that I use when kegging but figured it could be worthwhile for this purpose as well. Crazy? Good idea?
I wanna start with no bag and on spike's recommend crush first. See how it goes.
Pics is the filter in question. It's just as mesh inside.

I have a similar TC filter that I plan to try to use either for final kettle filtration or for vorlauf as you described.

I once tried to use it with my clawhammer system to prevent the recirc sprayer from clogging. The filter clogged and was a PITA to disconnect at 150+ degrees.

I have a bypass valve setup now to prevent this issue, which is why I'm thinking of trying again

 

[NewJersey]

If anyone with a solo+ is using a 3 way valve to split the outflow between recirculation and whirlpool I'd love to see it. This is what intend to do but I can't even figure out what 3 way valve I need. I already have a riptide and plan to use it. It's an npt riptide so I THINK I need an L type 3 way valve with another ball valve on the recirculation out of the 3 way. (Or should I just throttle with the riptides valve?)
Sorry for all the stupid and thanks for any help.
Perhaps it'll just make more sense when I have it from of me

 

[mp.shannon]

If anyone with a solo+ is using a 3 way valve to split the outflow between recirculation and whirlpool I'd love to see it. This is what intend to do but I can't even figure out what 3 way valve I need. I already have a riptide and plan to use it. It's an npt riptide so I THINK I need an L type 3 way valve with another ball valve on the recirculation out of the 3 way. (Or should I just throttle with the riptides valve?)
Sorry for all the stupid and thanks for any help.
Perhaps it'll just make more sense when I have it from of me

This is how I’m setup currently.

 

[PINbeer]

This is how I’m setup currently.

Will need to check out options and costs for these parts. I do like to run wort through the chiller for sterilization during the boil and then to drop the temp ~10-20 degrees for the real whirlpool. But the flow is too weak when going through the exchillerator to get an effective whirlpool. Last time I moved my hoses in the middle of the process, which makes a bit of a mess and you have to be careful as the connectors are hot. This is a much better solution.

 

[NewJersey]

I wanted to put the 3 way on my riptide.
I have mine oriented vertically where inlet is into the bottom and outflow is on top.
I use ball lock QDs and figures I'd put the valve directly onto the pump out and then male ball lock fittings on the valve.
That'd be fine too, right?

 

[Nagorg]

Hoists, pulleys, winches oh my... This is why I cant get behind BIAB personally. But cool to see what you guys do.

 

[NewJersey]

I wanted to put the 3 way on my riptide.
I have mine oriented vertically where inlet is into the bottom and outflow is on top.
I use ball lock QDs and figures I'd put the valve directly onto the pump out and then male ball lock fittings on the valve.
That'd be fine too, right?

OR should I put a T on the pump and two separate ball valves to individually control flow?

 

[NewJersey]

Hoists, pulleys, winches oh my... This is why I cant get behind BIAB personally. But cool to see what you guys do.

Lol, it's funny to me that THAT is too much for you.
Why don't you show us all your pots, giant controller, herms/rims/whatever garbage y'all are up to today, lol

 

[Nagorg]

Lol, it's funny to me that THAT is too much for you.
Why don't you show us all your pots, giant controller, herms/rims/whatever garbage y'all are up to today, lol

LOL I'm not that fancy. An electric brewery is very intriguing. But if I ever do go that way, I'll probably stick to multiple vessels and pumping between them like I do today.

 

[NewJersey]

LOL I'm not that fancy. An electric brewery is very intriguing. But if I ever do go that way, I'll probably stick to multiple vessels and pumping between them like I do today.

I'm a fan of pumps. How's a pump any less pumps, hoses, camlocks oh my? (Than a winch say)

 

[Nagorg]

How's a pump any less pumps, hoses, camlocks oh my? (Than a winch say)

I dont have to anchor them to my ceiling or some other beam positioned over my brew area.

.. But I digress... Getting in the weeds and off topic.

 

[PINbeer]

I'm wondering about what folks are doing in terms of cleaning - particularly the TC version. Do you disassemble the triclamp fittings and valves after each brew. I did 5 batches before doing so. I run PBW through everything and then rinse with cold water, so I feel like this is unnecessary except periodically. Am I being reckless? The Spike cleaning instructions don't say anything about disassembling.

 

[user 295610]

I'm wondering about what folks are doing in terms of cleaning - particularly the TC version. Do you disassemble the triclamp fittings and valves after each brew. I did 5 batches before doing so. I run PBW through everything and then rinse with cold water, so I feel like this is unnecessary except periodically. Am I being reckless? The Spike cleaning instructions don't say anything about disassembling.

Once I get all the chunky stuff out, I run PBW through my entire system (solo, pump, CFC) and rinse with cold water. Then I setup a bucket of PBW solution next to my utility sink and start breaking everything down piece by piece with a quick bath in PBW and then a rinse. Takes maybe 15-20 minutes since the TC clamps come apart so quickly and clean easily. Obviously, you need to reassemble before you can brew again, but I like the peace of mind knowing everything is 100% clean.

 

[Matt Orabella]

I just do PBW and water rinse, Star san rinse if I'm feeling fancy.

Havn't taken my TC's apart yet!

I do plan to do this once every 10 brews or so, but I never took my old NPT fittings apart over 60 brews with no issues, and since TC is theoretically more sanitary I don't stress too much about it.

 

[user 295610]

I broke down and added a bag to my Solo basket. Now, I crush the ever-loving-jesus out of my grain, mash, lift the basket to drain, then squeeze the bag into the kettle and manage to break the 75% efficiency barrier I had encountered just using the basket.

The real driver for the bag was solid matter in the boil causing scorching on the element, even after a conservative crush on conditioned grain.

The basket is still useful for not disturbing the grain when starting to drain. I get fairly clear wort in the kettle (not like my 3v system, but what you gonna do) this way, and scorching isn't as much of a problem as it was. Still seem to pick up more material on the element through the brew than I used to with my 3v system and home-build AuberIns controller though.

Punx, with the added bag and super crush how is your recirculation of wort during mash and also draining at mash out? When I had my grains double crushed on a recent batch I got a stuck mash almost immediately, and it took 30+ minutes to drain the basket at mash out. Annoying all around. Wondering if the bag just makes flow worse, or maybe it's keeping the grains from clogging the bottom slits in the basket and that's keeping the wort flowing. Thanks.