Spike Solo Owner's Thread

[sleev-les]

Here's the latest version of what the neighbors and I have tried. We did a couple SMaSH's, one with the bag (just slice a small slit/hole in the the bag) in the basket and one just the bag, didn't like either in the end so we're sticking with the basket. BUT we are keeping the arm with the diffuser on the end via tubing. We've got a few different lengths that we swap to depending on the grain bill size/etc.

And before everyone freaks out, I know the diffuser should be below the wort line... that lesson has been learned.

The parts below keep everything TC but Nor Cal Brewing Solutions has a bunch of options if you want to play around, just search "arm" on their site.

Diffuser plate
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Sparge-Diffusion-Plate-Half-Inch-Barbed.html
Arm
https://spikebrewing.com/collection...s/spike-pickup-tube-center?var=12257695367227

Why below the wort line? The Spike hose that comes with it is above based on their videos and the one I bought will be above. Never noticed the difference so curious.

 

[Thorrak]

Here's the latest version of what the neighbors and I have tried. We did a couple SMaSH's, one with the bag (just slice a small slit/hole in the the bag) in the basket and one just the bag, didn't like either in the end so we're sticking with the basket. BUT we are keeping the arm with the diffuser on the end via tubing. We've got a few different lengths that we swap to depending on the grain bill size/etc.

And before everyone freaks out, I know the diffuser should be below the wort line... that lesson has been learned.

The parts below keep everything TC but Nor Cal Brewing Solutions has a bunch of options if you want to play around, just search "arm" on their site.

Diffuser plate
https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Sparge-Diffusion-Plate-Half-Inch-Barbed.html
Arm
https://spikebrewing.com/collection...s/spike-pickup-tube-center?var=12257695367227

Why should the diffuser be below the wort line?

 

[Matsayz]

Why below the wort line? The Spike hose that comes with it is above based on their videos and the one I bought will be above. Never noticed the difference so curious.

Why should the diffuser be below the wort line?

I was whacked on the Spike FB page or Reddit page for having it so high above the wort level because of hot-side aeration/etc. I don't have the experience level to discern such a thing but I figured it's a simple fix anyways

 

[sleev-les]

I was whacked on the Spike FB page or Reddit page for having it so high above the wort level because of hot-side aeration/etc. I don't have the experience level to discern such a thing but I figured it's a simple fix anyways

Gotcha. I’ve always seen them above and always done it that way. The only system I had where the line was below was grainfather but that was how they designed it. I have not noticed any difference in outcome above or below. Just sticking to above.

 

[Mac MacFarlane]

What bag do you use in your basket?

 

[Biggz1313]

I just grabbed this from brewers hardware. The arm is one piece and the TC with bushing is another. Hoping to try it soon.

That's super slick. I think I really like that. How's it work for you so far?

 

[Biggz1313]

Tied to the question above from ShaLaH - Is it possible to rotate the whirlpool arm, while the kettle is filled? In case we had a basket or bag that wasnt original equipment and needed added clearance?

Shout out to Biggz1313 for helping me out with other questions!

Yes I do it with my pickup tube all the time when transferring my wort to fermenter. I have it down during mash/boil, then I rotate it pointing up halfway through chilling, and then after my wort has cooled and settled, I'll pump out the wort with it pointing up and will slowly rotate it back down getting as clear of wort as possible into fermenter (though brulosophy has tested trub in fermenter and there seems to be no perceptible difference in their tests). You only have to loosen the tri-clamps slightly to get it to rotate.

 

[sleev-les]

That's super slick. I think I really like that. How's it work for you so far?

I'll be using it for the first time this Saturday. I'll try and remember to take a video to post. What I like is you can adjust the drip plate as it is threaded and locked in place by a butterfly nut. I bought their dry hopper earlier in the year and have been really happy with their products so far.

Here are the links to the parts

https://www.brewershardware.com/bh-sparge-arm-modular-return-system
https://www.brewershardware.com/mod...over-compatible-modular-return-system-adapter

 

[cvbrewer]

Finally getting back to things on this thread since receiving my equipment end of March. Now have 2 batches in the books and have been adjusting my process and equipment profile accordingly. I have been pretty happy with how things are working and the help received from Spike on a few items.

Also another shout out to Biggs for all his help to explain everything, which I followed most of. I did go with my already owned stainless false bottom from brewershardware and a properly fitted BrewBag for maximum mash contact with wort. There are two things I added to solve questions in this thread.

1. On the brew kettle when trying to clean with the CIP spray ball and condensing lid, how to stop the cleaning spray from shooting out of the lid joint: I found this bulk edge trim seal to work quite well. I had to shoe goo the joint so it doesnt look pretty but it does the job just fine.
Trim Seal

2. WIth a bag, how to ensure that I wont get a clog, run dry on the bottom during recirc and have an element dryfire: I made my own poor mans sight glass, with a 90 deg 1.5TC to 1/2" hose barb, attached 2 feet of 1/2" silicone hose to it and clamp it up on the kettle handle. I then marked the danger point of just above the element with a marker on the hose. This assembly is attached to the racking port on the kettle during the mash process. Just make sure you open the valve!

See ya

 

[Hundehutte]

Finally getting back to things on this thread since receiving my equipment end of March. Now have 2 batches in the books and have been adjusting my process and equipment profile accordingly. I have been pretty happy with how things are working and the help received from Spike on a few items.

Also another shout out to Biggs for all his help to explain everything, which I followed most of. I did go with my already owned stainless false bottom from brewershardware and a properly fitted BrewBag for maximum mash contact with wort. There are two things I added to solve questions in this thread.

1. On the brew kettle when trying to clean with the CIP spray ball and condensing lid, how to stop the cleaning spray from shooting out of the lid joint: I found this bulk edge trim seal to work quite well. I had to shoe goo the joint so it doesnt look pretty but it does the job just fine.
Trim Seal

2. WIth a bag, how to ensure that I wont get a clog, run dry on the bottom during recirc and have an element dryfire: I made my own poor mans sight glass, with a 90 deg 1.5TC to 1/2" hose barb, attached 2 feet of 1/2" silicone hose to it and clamp it up on the kettle handle. I then marked the danger point of just above the element with a marker on the hose. This assembly is attached to the racking port on the kettle during the mash process. Just make sure you open the valve!

View attachment 850343

See ya

Great idea with the site glass. I have dry fired the element before. Luckly i caught before ruining the element. But it was tough to clean.

 

[user 345769]

Very nice read there boys and gals.
I do not have my 20gal Solo as of yet, as its on backorder from spike, but I was using a brewzilla 10gal for about 7yrs till it went poof, it did preform well weak pump and a few stuck mashes with an immersion chiller which i disliked, I am looking forward to my new Solo.
I used to pulled my grain basket manually for about 4 yrs till i almost knocked my brewzilla over so i got a pulley but kinda went big lol as I picked up a 2200lbs hand chain hoist and as a lone brewer i do like to make things as easy as i can.
Oh ya smoke'n a brisket on a brew day cant go wrong both take about the same amount of time to complete. unfortunately I do not eat meat but my family and friends lov my Smoky BBQs days.

so I do have a question about the solo flow pump and counterflow chiller. as the chiller is no longer an immersion like my old one. will the ***** Flow handle a 15 mins boil to sanitize them both. I used to put my Immersion in my boiler for the last 15 mins and run the on board brewzilla pump. I just dont want to burn up my new Flow.

P.s I will post my new solo once its all setup and brewing.

 

[Biggz1313]

Very nice read there boys and gals.
I do not have my 20gal Solo as of yet, as its on backorder from spike, but I was using a brewzilla 10gal for about 7yrs till it went poof, it did preform well weak pump and a few stuck mashes with an immersion chiller which i disliked, I am looking forward to my new Solo.
I used to pulled my grain basket manually for about 4 yrs till i almost knocked my brewzilla over so i got a pulley but kinda went big lol as I picked up a 2200lbs hand chain hoist and as a lone brewer i do like to make things as easy as i can.
Oh ya smoke'n a brisket on a brew day cant go wrong both take about the same amount of time to complete. unfortunately I do not eat meat but my family and friends lov my Smoky BBQs days.

so I do have a question about the solo flow pump and counterflow chiller. as the chiller is no longer an immersion like my old one. will the ***** Flow handle a 15 mins boil to sanitize them both. I used to put my Immersion in my boiler for the last 15 mins and run the on board brewzilla pump. I just dont want to burn up my new Flow.

P.s I will post my new solo once its all setup and brewing.

If you got the full spike setup with the spike pump it will be fine. It's more than powerful enough.

 

[user 345769]

If you got the full spike setup with the spike pump it will be fine. It's more than powerful enough.

Hey thank for getting back to me. Yes; my solo i will be the 20gal boiler with basket TC, counterflow chiller, Spike flow pump, all the TC clamps and gaskets and the condenser lid. and a few other TC accessories. I did not get the CF15 as mush as I want it but as it will cost me over $2k with tax + Delivery. Hoping I can get it next summer.

 

[BigMooseBrewing]

I have switched from the solo basket to using a brewhardware false bottom and BIAB. I have tried both wilser and theBrewbag. Overall I like the bag system better, no worries about recirculation, I am back to milling at .028 and the bag is easier to rinse than the 20G solo basket.

Only hiccup was I didn't tie a proper knot prior to cranking the bag up last brew and splashed some wort. Since then I have brushed up on my bowline knot

Question for those who use counterflow chillers with whirlpool hop additions:

Do you typically do a traditional 30-minute whirlpool or just chuck the hops in and start chilling/transferring?

Would you be able to show me your setup with the false bottom

 

[alanburtonwells]

Just read through the whole thread, thanks to everyone who has contributed and made this a great resource for spike solo owners. I noticed that some people have said they've been able to fit over 40lbs of grain in a mash on their Spike 20. I just had my first brew day on my Spike 20 system and the mash tun started to overflow with ~29lbs of grain and ~19 gallons of water. I should've realized this since beersmith even told me I would need 21.50 gallons of mash tun volume needed. I was supposed to add another 5lbs of flaked wheat that didn't fit so I just drained some wort into a separate pot and then mashed a second time. This was for a 13.5 gallon batch so larger than 10 gallons.

I know that Spike says the max amount of grain for a 10 gallon batch on the spike solo 20 is 40lbs. How have people fit 40lbs of grain for a 10 gallon batch? I just did 10 gallon test recipe in beersmith with 40lbs of grain and using the spike solo 20 equipment profile and the BIAB mash profile and it says I would need 22.41 gallons of mash tun space so I'm guessing that wouldn't work on the spike solo 20. Are people just mashing thicker or sparging somehow?

I did snag the BIAB false bottom from BrewHardware.com along with bag so I assume if I use that instead of the basket I should have plenty of space for bigger mashes. I'm just curious to hear what the max amount of grain people have been able to fit in the spike solo 20 for a 10 gallon batch based on real use/experience.

 

[Bobby_M]

Just read through the whole thread, thanks to everyone who has contributed and made this a great resource for spike solo owners. I noticed that some people have said they've been able to fit over 40lbs of grain in a mash on their Spike 20. I just had my first brew day on my Spike 20 system and the mash tun started to overflow with ~29lbs of grain and ~19 gallons of water. I should've realized this since beersmith even told me I would need 21.50 gallons of mash tun volume needed. I was supposed to add another 5lbs of flaked wheat that didn't fit so I just drained some wort into a separate pot and then mashed a second time. This was for a 13.5 gallon batch so larger than 10 gallons.

I know that Spike says the max amount of grain for a 10 gallon batch on the spike solo 20 is 40lbs. How have people fit 40lbs of grain for a 10 gallon batch? I just did 10 gallon test recipe in beersmith with 40lbs of grain and using the spike solo 20 equipment profile and the BIAB mash profile and it says I would need 22.41 gallons of mash tun space so I'm guessing that wouldn't work on the spike solo 20. Are people just mashing thicker or sparging somehow?

I did snag the BIAB false bottom from BrewHardware.com along with bag so I assume if I use that instead of the basket I should have plenty of space for bigger mashes. I'm just curious to hear what the max amount of grain people have been able to fit in the spike solo 20 for a 10 gallon batch based on real use/experience.

You can edit the profile to set the water/grain ratio a little lower to make it work. The built in profiles are just a suggested starting point.

 

[sleev-les]

Just read through the whole thread, thanks to everyone who has contributed and made this a great resource for spike solo owners. I noticed that some people have said they've been able to fit over 40lbs of grain in a mash on their Spike 20. I just had my first brew day on my Spike 20 system and the mash tun started to overflow with ~29lbs of grain and ~19 gallons of water. I should've realized this since beersmith even told me I would need 21.50 gallons of mash tun volume needed. I was supposed to add another 5lbs of flaked wheat that didn't fit so I just drained some wort into a separate pot and then mashed a second time. This was for a 13.5 gallon batch so larger than 10 gallons.

I know that Spike says the max amount of grain for a 10 gallon batch on the spike solo 20 is 40lbs. How have people fit 40lbs of grain for a 10 gallon batch? I just did 10 gallon test recipe in beersmith with 40lbs of grain and using the spike solo 20 equipment profile and the BIAB mash profile and it says I would need 22.41 gallons of mash tun space so I'm guessing that wouldn't work on the spike solo 20. Are people just mashing thicker or sparging somehow?

I did snag the BIAB false bottom from BrewHardware.com along with bag so I assume if I use that instead of the basket I should have plenty of space for bigger mashes. I'm just curious to hear what the max amount of grain people have been able to fit in the spike solo 20 for a 10 gallon batch based on real use/experience.

I had 44 pounds of grain once. Had to drop the water volume then did a sparge to get volume back up to pre boil.

 

[alanburtonwells]

I had 44 pounds of grain once. Had to drop the water volume then did a sparge to get volume back up to pre boil.

How did you end up sparging? Did you hook the basket on the kettle and then pour water over the mash somehow?

You can edit the profile to set the water/grain ratio a little lower to make it work. The built in profiles are just a suggested starting point.

I just realized that since I'm not doing any sparging, it assumes I'm adding all my water during the mash since its similar to BIAB. Are you sparging or adding water after to get to to the right volume?

 

[Bobby_M]

How did you end up sparging? Did you hook the basket on the kettle and then pour water over the mash somehow?



I just realized that since I'm not doing any sparging, it assumes I'm adding all my water during the mash since its similar to BIAB. Are you sparging or adding water after to get to to the right volume?

The solo can be run as no sparge most of the time. When you start approaching the max grain capacity of the basket, it may be necessary to hold back some of that total water and sparge it when the basket gets lifted.

 

[sleev-les]

How did you end up sparging? Did you hook the basket on the kettle and then pour water over the mash somehow?



I just realized that since I'm not doing any sparging, it assumes I'm adding all my water during the mash since its similar to BIAB. Are you sparging or adding water after to get to to the right volume?

Pretty much. I had the Grainfather water warmer kettle and heated that water up to sparge temp while I was mashing. I would then pour it over the lifted basket.