How do I pressurize the Flex, not the Flex+? It is currently in use as a fermenter.
Spike Flex Plus Owners
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The fancy lid is on order. Spike wants me to pressurize it NOW as part of troubleshooting the lack of bubbles in my airlock during fermentation. Earlier discussion in this thread leads me to suspect the gasket on the clear lid.
Supposedly, the base model flex can be pressurized up to 2 psi. I need to fill that big hole in the lid and get gas into the fermentation chamber. I have a soda bottle carb cap, if that helps, but so far I've not found a way to make it fit.
Supposedly, the base model flex can be pressurized up to 2 psi. I need to fill that big hole in the lid and get gas into the fermentation chamber. I have a soda bottle carb cap, if that helps, but so far I've not found a way to make it fit.
I know this is not a flex but you could do the same idea by pushing CO2 into the airlock that is in the stopper. I would just be careful not to over pressurize.
That worked perfectly, thank you. I took apart a three piece airlock and jammed one end of a tube into that. I pushed the barb on the end of a soda carb cap into the other end, and connected my gas line to that. The result was just barely long enough to reach without having to take things about nor remove the Flex from the chest freezer that I use as a fermentation chamber. I turned the gas on low and the clear lid promptly started to whistle. I pressed down on the lid, and the whistling stopped. This should convince Spike that we have found the problem.
So, I've never done a pressure or closed transfer before. I have a beer basically finished in my spike plus. Cold crashing now. I have a new corny keg I cleaned and then filled to the top with starsan. Pushed the star San out with c02. I have the Spike closed pressure transfer kit and I bought another gas post for the other end. If my keg is at higher pressure than my fermenter would that be enough to get the beer going into the keg? (Keg gas hooked to fermenter gas post. Liquid out of butterfly valve into liquid keg post)
Or would the beer kinda just stop flowing once equal pressure was reached? (And then I just hook a c02 tank up to flex gas post and lift the keg prv a lil here and there until finished?
I've never done this before and if I'm gonna bother I'd like it to go right the first time.
Thanks, guys
Or would the beer kinda just stop flowing once equal pressure was reached? (And then I just hook a c02 tank up to flex gas post and lift the keg prv a lil here and there until finished?
I've never done this before and if I'm gonna bother I'd like it to go right the first time.
Thanks, guys
Pressure seeks equilibrium. Pressure (and beer) will move in the direction of the lower pressure. You want lower pressure in the keg. Lifting the keg PRV will lower pressure in the keg and allow the beer to flow.
Any word from Spike? Just curious what they said.
This past weekend, I pressure tested my CF10 to see if the clear lid had issues. It does. I'm sure the clear lid for the Flex + would be the same.
I love the idea of the clear lid. What sucks though is it doesn't seal and it fogs up bad during active fermentation.
I bought these from Bobby M
The MFL/1.5 triclamp you won't need since you have the transfer kit. I bought mine as it was cheaper to make my own transfer line than the kit offered by Spike. I already had everything else but the triclamp adapter pictured.
I connected the line to my fermenter but with the beer disconnect off. I opened the butterfly valve and let the beer run clear, then close it. I connected the (sanitized) disconnect, and attached it to the sanitized/purged keg. Then I hooked up CO2 to the gas post on the Spike Flex, opened the Spike's valve, then the keg's PRV and let it fill.
RiverCityBrewer
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I did contact them and sent a few pictures. They sent me some new EPDM gaskets but I haven't had a chance to test them out yet. The gasket does seem a little thicker than the silicone one it came with, so I'm hopeful it will clamp evenly and hold full pressure.
They told me one was in the mail like 10 days ago.
Never got it
RiverCityBrewer
Well-Known Member
Did you get a tracking number?
When I tracked mine, it appeared several days passed between the time they created the shipping label and the time it actually went to the shipper.
Today, they followed up and asked if it solved the problem for me. I thought that was a nice touch.
Today, they followed up and asked if it solved the problem for me. I thought that was a nice touch.
Here is my modified flex. I had my brother cut the point of the cone off and weld a 1.5” tri-clamp fitting to it. The fitting was about $8 on amazon and allows me to use any of the pieces I have already purchased for the flex. He was able to do all the work rather quick, maybe 30 minutes, so I don’t think it would cost a lot. He only charged me beer whenever he comes over. Not sure other welders would do the same though. Overall I’m happy with it and I feel I saved quite a bit even including the cost of all the attachments and clamps from amazon. Just gotta passivate the weld and I’m set. Waiting on my Anvil Foundry to get here to break it in.
I use a tilt hydrometer in my flex plus. After my first beer in it I went and bought the repeater.
Reading in here recently that hydrometers aren't accurate when carbed.
I let my beer finish under pressure and am now wondering how much the hydrometer reading was effected. It finished at my expected FG almost exactly.
Inside a closed fermenter under pressure will a hydrometer read correctly?
The reasons I read a hydrometer doesn't work in carbed beer is due to co2 offgassing moving the hydrometer up. In a closed fermenter under pressure does the same problem occur?
Thanks, guys
Reading in here recently that hydrometers aren't accurate when carbed.
I let my beer finish under pressure and am now wondering how much the hydrometer reading was effected. It finished at my expected FG almost exactly.
Inside a closed fermenter under pressure will a hydrometer read correctly?
The reasons I read a hydrometer doesn't work in carbed beer is due to co2 offgassing moving the hydrometer up. In a closed fermenter under pressure does the same problem occur?
Thanks, guys
Refractometers are inaccurate after fermentation. Degass a hydro sample after fermentation for accurate results.
Did you read my post?
Sure did. Which is why I typed what I typed. Degass your hydro sample. Or don’t. Brew on...
Since he uses a Tilt his hydro sample is the whole fermenter, degassing it would be rather impractical.
To the OP: dissolved CO2 will increase OG by roughly 2 points compared to a fully degassed sample for a beer carbed to normal levels (5.0-5.5 g/l). The real issue would be with gas bubbles adhering to the Tilt and changing its reading by an indeterminate amount but that's a well known and not resolved issue with the Tilt.
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Good explanation. On a related issue, suggested in a previous post about refractometer accuracy, I'd like to get your view of refractometer accuracy with alcohol present after applying the mathematical formulae as used in the Brewer's Friend on-line calculator. The applied math seems to be an accurate correction factor, certainly for the average home brewer's application. I've never had more than a 1 point post-fermentation difference between a hydrometer reading and a corrected refractometer reading, and most are exactly the same.
I de-gas a single sample in the hydrometer jar and allow it to free rise to ambient temperature (stable at 63-67F year-round in my brew area). Once I've taken the hydrometer reading I draw off about 1 ml of that sample with a pipette for the refractometer, so both samples come from exactly the same de-gassed source at exactly the same temperature.
Yet the debate seems to rage on about refractometer inaccuracy except for O.G. readings. Ingrained biases resist change, even in the face of countervailing argument and evidence. I recently had a professional brewer (well credentialed academically) tell me outright that any refractometer reading other than O.G. can never be accurate. Given the reduced acuity of my 70 year-old eyes, I have greater faith in the calculated refractometer value than in my ability to discern where the meniscus falls on the hydrometer.
Care to weigh in on the debate?
Brooo Brother
I asked because I assumed in the sealed fermenter under pressure there wouldn't be bubbles of c02 escaping anymore.
Anyways couple points one way or the other works for me.
I was hoping one of the many science/engineering background guys would have a thorough explanation for me, lol
Anyways couple points one way or the other works for me.
I was hoping one of the many science/engineering background guys would have a thorough explanation for me, lol
If there are nucleation sites the formation of bubbles is still possible and bubbles already adhering to a surface can take a long time to dissipate/be released.
I've got a dunkel in my Flex+ that's chugging along at 58F. I've thought about taking advantage of letting it self carb toward the end of fermentation. Could I spund it the same time I'm doing a D-rest or wait a little longer?
Check it out.....
I found these old casters in my garage while looking around for something else. They were from an old shelf unit for my stereo, so if they can hold a lot of heavy gear like a power amp, 5-6 gallons of wort should be no problem. Should be no different if you have a spare office chair either.
They look kind ridiculous imo, but who cares? Function over form, right? My back's happy.
I found these old casters in my garage while looking around for something else. They were from an old shelf unit for my stereo, so if they can hold a lot of heavy gear like a power amp, 5-6 gallons of wort should be no problem. Should be no different if you have a spare office chair either.
They look kind ridiculous imo, but who cares? Function over form, right? My back's happy.
Attachments
That is a pretty cool mod! I'm guessing that you are in the "Should have gone with the C5" camp?
I’ve had this exact thought. Every brew day.
I'm curious if any of you have come up with a good CIP process for the Flex+ ?
I wrecked my back a few years ago and since then I have become somewhat of an expert in brewing without lifting. By adding hoists and pumps to my setup I'm able to get through an entire brew day and packaging without bending over and lifting anything heavy. The last thing to figure out is how to clean my fermenter without moving it. I think the lack of bottom drain is going to be the biggest blocker for a true CIP process. It currently sits on top of a standard height table so I can probably be comfortable with tilting it to pour out the cleaner/rinse. But am wondering if anyone has come up with a more elegant CIP solution for the Flex.
Cheers!
I wrecked my back a few years ago and since then I have become somewhat of an expert in brewing without lifting. By adding hoists and pumps to my setup I'm able to get through an entire brew day and packaging without bending over and lifting anything heavy. The last thing to figure out is how to clean my fermenter without moving it. I think the lack of bottom drain is going to be the biggest blocker for a true CIP process. It currently sits on top of a standard height table so I can probably be comfortable with tilting it to pour out the cleaner/rinse. But am wondering if anyone has come up with a more elegant CIP solution for the Flex.
Cheers!
To be honest I don't know of a better way of cleaning mine than to take the top dome off. I break mine down completely, rinse, wash, rinse, dry, then put it (loosely) back together. On brew day, I sanitize it and crank down on all the clamps. Since your Flex is on a table, I'd tilt it to pour our the contents when cleaning and just take it apart. Who knows, cleaning the parts individually may be easier on your back from a weight perspective.
IMO, I think the CIP attachment is more trouble than it's worth. I don't think it's going to save anymore time, plus the CIP ball has to mount on the 1.5" top port. It's off center, so I would think you wouldn't get a good thorough cleaning unless you buy a reducer for the 4" port in the dome's center.
I want to add gelatin to primary without opening this thing up.
Any help guys?
Any help guys?
I have a cf10 and flex+‘s. I have often said I think I wish I went for the cf5 instead of the flex + due to the dump valve. So much easier.
fwiw, I add a 90* elbow to the flex+ which makes tilting and dumping more accurate into a bucket.
For those that have fermented your Spike Flex+ or CF5 under pressure, can you notice a difference in the resulting beer?
It seems pressure fermentation is one of the key selling points of the Spike fermenters over SSBrewTech or Stout. On the cheaper end of the pressurized fermenter world is the Fermzilla. Wondering if pressure fermentation is worth the hassle/cost, and if it is whether or not the plastic version would work just as well. I am using a FastFerment now with great ale results, but just bought a Glycol chiller to enable lagers, so I need to change my primary fermenter vessel.
It seems pressure fermentation is one of the key selling points of the Spike fermenters over SSBrewTech or Stout. On the cheaper end of the pressurized fermenter world is the Fermzilla. Wondering if pressure fermentation is worth the hassle/cost, and if it is whether or not the plastic version would work just as well. I am using a FastFerment now with great ale results, but just bought a Glycol chiller to enable lagers, so I need to change my primary fermenter vessel.
SFrisby, I'm wanting to understand better your comparision (voice of experience!) between Spike conicals and the Flex+
Please elaborate on "easier": for cleaning, or?
Interesting. Is your Flex+ 90° elbow just to help with cleaning, or do you also use it to transfer beer?
The dump valve makes cleaning easier where I attach a spray ball to the 1.5” port on top and let it drain out the bottom back into the same bucket. When I’m done, it just drains itself.
With the flex, with no dump valve, I need to disconnect everything (glycol line, temp probe, ect…) and then tip it to dump the liquid at the bottom. None of it is the end of the world, it’s just easier with a dump port and it empties itself with no extra work.
My 90* elbow is a 1” diameter elbow. Just used for directing liquids (cleaning or sanitizer) from the bottom port back into the bucket with the pump. All transfers are with separate connections of typical 1/2” tubing. Hope that helps.
With the flex, with no dump valve, I need to disconnect everything (glycol line, temp probe, ect…) and then tip it to dump the liquid at the bottom. None of it is the end of the world, it’s just easier with a dump port and it empties itself with no extra work.
My 90* elbow is a 1” diameter elbow. Just used for directing liquids (cleaning or sanitizer) from the bottom port back into the bucket with the pump. All transfers are with separate connections of typical 1/2” tubing. Hope that helps.
I'm in the same boat.. I love my Flex+, but I like my CF10 more... so I just ordered a CF5. I'll transfer the accessories I can, and sell my Flex+ I guess.
I have the flex plus and am totally happy with it, but if I get a second ferment or it will be a conical with a yeast dump. Being able to dump the yeast to “secondary” with fruit would be cool. I don’t want to have to actually transfer to another fermentor. I’m waiting to get glycol before I get a conical though. My flex + barely fits in my fermentation chamber, so I know a conical won’t.
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