Spike Conical- observations and best practices

[TheMadKing]

So they say "hand tight". Can I crank it until it's very hard to turn by hand without destroying the ring? The leak is coming from the back corner of the lid which is 180 degrees away from the part I'm hand tightening.

Update: I turned it until it was getting hard to turn by hand and then added pressure again. At 13psi it started to leak but I could hear some buckling as if the seal was adjusting. It's holding at 12-13psi so that's good enough for me. (Thank you for the tip!) It's much tighter than I would have expected. Still hand tight but I turned it until it was getting hard to tighten.

I also found that, just like a barrel ring, tapping around it in a circle with a rubber mallet on a cloth (fairly gently don't dent anything), helped me distribute the pressure more evenly and I got another full turn out of the closure bolt. I've had zero issues with sealing

 

[eric19312]

This document is a good study if you are having issue getting your Spike CF to seal.

https://spikebrewing.freshdesk.com/...00045928-lid-gasket-installation-instructions
I have had zero issues getting a seal on my CF15 that will hold 15 PSI.

 

[Nate R]

I also think, and no offense intended here to anyone- it is SO easy to forget/ mistake the "flat side down, pointed side up" of these directions! First, they are confusing. It should read- pointed part meets lid to rim or some such thing.
Also, I too have been guilty of this- one of my batches when I was cleaning I had realized i did it the wrong way! I had no issues, but still probably not ideal for the gasket.

Edit- I think this is a flaw of the cf system. It allows for such a crucial part to be affected by human error. Although- how one makes a clamp/gasket system foolproof is beyond me,

 

[TheMadKing]

I also think, and no offense intended here to anyone- it is SO easy to forget/ mistake the "flat side down, pointed side up" of these directions! First, they are confusing. It should read- pointed part meets lid to rim or some such thing.
Also, I too have been guilty of this- one of my batches when I was cleaning I had realized i did it the wrong way! I had no issues, but still probably not ideal for the gasket.

Edit- I think this is a flaw of the cf system. It allows for such a crucial part to be affected by human error. Although- how one makes a clamp/gasket system foolproof is beyond me,

Nothing is foolproof - they keep designing better fools

 

[Nate R]

Nothing is foolproof - they keep designing better fools

I dunno.... this fool is darn near a perfect fool. Ask my wife.

 

[Broothru]

You could get a SS Brewtech Chronical. They don't have problems with sealing.

He, hee. Yeah, you could. But then the Chronical is only rated to 2 psi. Now the UNITANK is a different story. Got both and love 'em. Different tools for different jobs.

Brooo Brother

 

[NeoBrew]

He, hee. Yeah, you could. But then the Chronical is only rated to 2 psi. Now the UNITANK is a different story. Got both and love 'em. Different tools for different jobs.

Brooo Brother

Doh! I screwed up my own joke. I meant the Unitank.

 

[danclark714]

Any recommendations on best practices to know the liquid level when filling the fermentor? I pump the wort in through the fermentor port with everything sealed (excess pressure leaves the blow off tube) to ensure a sanitary environment. I have the cooling coil installed so I can't look in through the top so I have to guestimate where I'm at on level by watching the level drop in the boil kettle. I'd be curious if anyone has a low risk method or retrofit to monitor the level in the fermentor or if I should just keep watching the boil kettle drop.

 

[CodeSection]

Any recommendations on best practices to know the liquid level when filling the fermentor? I pump the wort in through the fermentor port with everything sealed (excess pressure leaves the blow off tube) to ensure a sanitary environment. I have the cooling coil installed so I can't look in through the top so I have to guestimate where I'm at on level by watching the level drop in the boil kettle. I'd be curious if anyone has a low risk method or retrofit to monitor the level in the fermentor or if I should just keep watching the boil kettle drop.

I have never felt the need to actually see how high the wort level is in my CF10. Though, I could easily look after removing the temporary covering on the lid when I'm pitching the yeast and before installing the cooling coil.

My software does an excellent job in determining the estimated volumes in the kettles and fermenter. Plus, I measure everything and take notes on volumes with each brew so as I can refer back to the same previous recipes to compare with if needed. Obviously, if you have your kettles and processes dialed in for the particular recipe, you will know roughly what the various volumes will be at different stages/processes.

Just curious, how are you pitching your yeast?

 

[Yesfan]

Any recommendations on best practices to know the liquid level when filling the fermentor? I pump the wort in through the fermentor port with everything sealed (excess pressure leaves the blow off tube) to ensure a sanitary environment. I have the cooling coil installed so I can't look in through the top so I have to guestimate where I'm at on level by watching the level drop in the boil kettle. I'd be curious if anyone has a low risk method or retrofit to monitor the level in the fermentor or if I should just keep watching the boil kettle drop.

Not trying to sound like an ass, but if you have 11 gallons (assuming you have a CF10) of brew in your bowl kettle, then you should have that amount in your conical. Maybe subtract a .5 or 1 gallon for the trub if you're leaving that behind in the kettle.

I'm usually between 11.5 to 12 gallons in my CF10.

 

[danclark714]

I have never felt the need to actually see how high the wort level is in my CF10. Though, I could easily look after removing the temporary covering on the lid when I'm pitching the yeast and before installing the cooling coil.

My software does an excellent job in determining the estimated volumes in the kettles and fermenter. Plus, I measure everything and take notes on volumes with each brew so as I can refer back to the same previous recipes to compare with if needed. Obviously, if you have your kettles and processes dialed in for the particular recipe, you will know roughly what the various volumes will be at different stages/processes.

Just curious, how are you pitching your yeast?

I'm pitching by removing the chilling coil so I'm definitely exposing the brew. But it's quick compared to having it cracked while it fills. I think you're right though; I'll just continue to dial in my process. I brew 22 gallons and split between two fermentors so it sounds like I'll just have to "tune up" my process. I ended up with 10.5 in one fermentor and 9 in the other

 

[Vale71]

Any recommendations on best practices to know the liquid level when filling the fermentor? I pump the wort in through the fermentor port with everything sealed (excess pressure leaves the blow off tube) to ensure a sanitary environment. I have the cooling coil installed so I can't look in through the top so I have to guestimate where I'm at on level by watching the level drop in the boil kettle. I'd be curious if anyone has a low risk method or retrofit to monitor the level in the fermentor or if I should just keep watching the boil kettle drop.

There are sensors, based on sonar or radar ranging, that allow monitoring of the liquid level without having to open up a fermenter but cost considerations aside they don't work very well in our tiny fermenters. If you just want to check the level at the end of transfer you can just hold the transfer line alongside the fermenter with the valve on the fermenter still open and you'll have a temporary sight glass showing you the current fill level. Just remember to close the valve before you remove the hose as it's easy to forget.

 

[CodeSection]

I'm pitching by removing the chilling coil so I'm definitely exposing the brew. But it's quick compared to having it cracked while it fills. I think you're right though; I'll just continue to dial in my process. I brew 22 gallons and split between two fermentors so it sounds like I'll just have to "tune up" my process. I ended up with 10.5 in one fermentor and 9 in the other

That's a lot of beer! Good for you! You definitely have an advantage by splitting the wort into two fermenters. Your options are endless as you could use different yeast, different hops for dry hopping, different fruits, or different spices in each fermenter. If you can, please upload pictures of your kettles and setup.

FWIW, I keep the top 4" cooling coil port covered and closed when filling the CF10 with wort. After I complete the transfer, I remove the cover; add the yeast; add O2 via an O2 wand; insert the coiling coil; and close it back up again. Looking back at my recipes, the most wort I have transferred into the CF10 has been roughly 11.9 gallons.....

 

[TheMadKing]

I keep one of spike's little plastic caps on my blowoff TC port, and I oxygenate and pitch through that hole. I'll usually take a look down in it to see how high the liquid level is, but you can't read the gallon marks without a dental mirror.

Not sure why anyone is worried about oxidation at this stage since this is the point where it should be added anyway. Infection is also unlikely through a briefly open port, so if you really need to see your liquid level there's nothing wrong IMO with keeping your chilling coil in a nearby bucket of star san and keeping some sanitized foil over the big TC opening and using that as needed.

 

[Tom R]

I use a dipstick thru the 3" TC port. A flashight is handy for reading it.

 

[danclark714]

That's a lot of beer! Good for you! You definitely have an advantage by splitting the wort into two fermenters. Your options are endless as you could use different yeast, different hops for dry hopping, different fruits, or different spices in each fermenter. If you can, please upload pictures of your kettles and setup.

FWIW, I keep the top 4" cooling coil port covered and closed when filling the CF10 with wort. After I complete the transfer, I remove the cover; add the yeast; add O2 via an O2 wand; insert the coiling coil; and close it back up again. Looking back at my recipes, the most wort I have transferred into the CF10 has been roughly 11.9 gallons.....

Definitely the reason for going with two was to have fun with recipe variations. Here is the full setup. I use a condenser so no hood is needed.

 

[CodeSection]

Definitely the reason for going with two was to have fun with recipe variations. Here is the full setup. I use a condenser so no hood is needed.View attachment 687100

Very nice setup!!

 

[V-Twin]

Looking for some suggestions and/or processes folks use for attaching the Spike carb stone to the conical post fermentation. I'm paranoid about oxygen pick-up in this batch as it's a highly hopped IPA. Wondering how folks are purging the tri-clover stone of CO2 in this scenario? (note to self: attach the carb stone during fermentation with the racking valve open next time) Currently, I'm just blasting CO2 in the fitting and then using a gas ball-lock connect to release the pressure several times.
Cheers!

 

[danclark714]

Looking for some suggestions and/or processes folks use for attaching the Spike carb stone to the conical post fermentation. I'm paranoid about oxygen pick-up in this batch as it's a highly hopped IPA. Wondering how folks are purging the tri-clover stone of CO2 in this scenario? (note to self: attach the carb stone during fermentation with the racking valve open next time) Currently, I'm just blasting CO2 in the fitting and then using a gas ball-lock connect to release the pressure several times.
Cheers!

Maybe try very loosely attaching the carb stone and pressurize it? If it's loose enough I imagine the CO2 would leak out around the TC connection and then you can tighten it up to make the seal and it's only CO2 at that point.

 

[eric19312]

Maybe try very loosely attaching the carb stone and pressurize it? If it's loose enough I imagine the CO2 would leak out around the TC connection and then you can tighten it up to make the seal and it's only CO2 at that point.

Thats what I do. Attach it loosely and you can hear it hissing around the gasket. Let it hiss for a while and tighten until you don't hear any more hissing.

 

[ShaLaH]

I've used my CF5 for a few batches now. Overall, I'm very happy with it. I haven't had any problems with the lid gasket not sealing and have been able
to ferment under pressure. The sample port is very convenient, love the carb stone and pressure manifold. I tried low-oxygen dry hopping by putting
a butterfly valve on the 1.5" lid port, then sight glass full of hops, then the pressure manifold. Didn't work out so well as the sight glass doesn't hold too many hops and the pressure ended up pushing them up into the manifold and wouldn't drop down. I ended up taking the valve and sight glass off and just dumping hops through the 1.5" port - I probably introduced more O2 this way than just dumping the hops in.

The one thing I don't like is that the 4" lid opening is basically useless if you're using the chiller coil. It's so much wasted real estate. I like how the SS unitank allows you to use a coil through the lid and also access the top port. I also like how the SS Chronical has the side mounted coil attached to the body allowing use of the top port. If I'd thought it through more, I probably would've gone with the unitank to have access to the large top port. If Spike developed a modified chiller coil like SS with access to a 2" lid port, that would be perfect.

 

[danclark714]

The one thing I don't like is that the 4" lid opening is basically useless if you're using the chiller coil. It's so much wasted real estate. .... If Spike developed a modified chiller coil like SS with access to a 2" lid port, that would be perfect.

Definitely agree about this design flaw. I just pop the chiller coil and it rests at and angle on the TC "rim" and then I pitch my dry hops. I then close it back up and fill it back up with some O2 through the pressure attachment; maybe pull the pressure release purge a few times too

 

[eric19312]

I've used my CF5 for a few batches now. Overall, I'm very happy with it. I haven't had any problems with the lid gasket not sealing and have been able
to ferment under pressure. The sample port is very convenient, love the carb stone and pressure manifold. I tried low-oxygen dry hopping by putting
a butterfly valve on the 1.5" lid port, then sight glass full of hops, then the pressure manifold. Didn't work out so well as the sight glass doesn't hold too many hops and the pressure ended up pushing them up into the manifold and wouldn't drop down. I ended up taking the valve and sight glass off and just dumping hops through the 1.5" port - I probably introduced more O2 this way than just dumping the hops in.

The one thing I don't like is that the 4" lid opening is basically useless if you're using the chiller coil. It's so much wasted real estate. I like how the SS unitank allows you to use a coil through the lid and also access the top port. I also like how the SS Chronical has the side mounted coil attached to the body allowing use of the top port. If I'd thought it through more, I probably would've gone with the unitank to have access to the large top port. If Spike developed a modified chiller coil like SS with access to a 2" lid port, that would be perfect.

I'm also struggling with low oxygen dry hopping, am using the 3" sight glass yeast brink from Norcal. Works well as a brink but still struggling trying to inject as little as 4oz hops at a time. TBH I was getting really really good results just opening my 4' TC while slowly bubbling CO2 in from the bottom then sealing it all up and pulling the purge 3-4 times once I was done.

You are right on that 4" port being really useful if you aren't using the TC coil. Part of reason I went with fermentor in an upright freezer vs coil and glycol. No regrets on that choice, freezer works great and even brand new price came out less than DIY glycol (+ chiller coil upgrade). My tradeoff is that I make one big batch in a CF15 rather than run several smaller tanks. Those SS unitanks look awesome but the coil is not optional and the tank itself is another bump up in price.

Agree the lid gasket problems are not an issue for me either. Never have and issue getting the tank to hold pressure. The convenience of being able to take the lid off for cleaning should not be overlooked. I'm working on CIP but still not confident enough with my technique to forgo a full visual inspection between batches.

 

[user 272106]

. Didn't work out so well as the sight glass doesn't hold too many hops and the pressure ended up pushing them up into the manifold and wouldn't drop down.

I had the same problem the first two times I did this (using a 1.5" sight glass). Now I use a easy-clean ball valve instead of butterfly valve on my 1.5" lid port. This ensures the full 1.5" is clear and no obstructions when I open it. I always make sure there is more pressure in the sight glass than is in the conical when I open the valve to eliminate that hop blow up into the manifold. I also don't pack my sight glass completely full. If I need more than 2.5 oz or so I repeat the process (close the valve, pop off the manifold, fill again, purge glass headspace o2 with co2, open valve back up). Other than some hops occasionally getting stuck in the sight glass which a small tap makes them drop down, I haven't had any issues since I started doing this.

 

[Yesfan]

..........The one thing I don't like is that the 4" lid opening is basically useless if you're using the chiller coil. It's so much wasted real estate. I like how the SS unitank allows you to use a coil through the lid and also access the top port. I also like how the SS Chronical has the side mounted coil attached to the body allowing use of the top port. If I'd thought it through more, I probably would've gone with the unitank to have access to the large top port. If Spike developed a modified chiller coil like SS with access to a 2" lid port, that would be perfect.

One owner a few pages back had Jaybird weld a TC port on his chiller coil. I can't remember what size it was, but I'm sure it's not a 3 inch like the SS. I think it was a $100 mod.

 

[stealthfixr]

Just bought a CF5, my first SS fermenter. Just arrived yesterday and already PBW'd cleaned--no leaks (unlike my first three times filling up my Fast Ferment). Looks amazing and I cannot wait to pair it with the Icemaster Max 2 glycol chiller arriving in a few days. First beer up will be a stout, first time fermenting under pressure, cold crashing, and transferring O2 free under pressure to a keg. I am curious what all this will mean in the finished product.

With the CF5, I bought:
- Casters
- Reinforcing shelf
- Pressure transfer kit
- 1.5" TC sight glass
- Pressure manifold bundle
- Temp coil 4" TC

Anything else recommended?

Thinking of changing out the thermometer with a thermowell for the glycol chiller probe. Is there a better way to measure temps from this conical under pressure?

And, I rolled the conical over cement & tile with 5 gallons in it, and it is TIPPY. Any best practices to make that safer?

 

[Nate R]

Just bought a CF5, my first SS fermenter. Just arrived yesterday and already PBW'd cleaned--no leaks (unlike my first three times filling up my Fast Ferment). Looks amazing and I cannot wait to pair it with the Icemaster Max 2 glycol chiller arriving in a few days. First beer up will be a stout, first time fermenting under pressure, cold crashing, and transferring O2 free under pressure to a keg. I am curious what all this will mean in the finished product.

With the CF5, I bought:
- Casters
- Reinforcing shelf
- Pressure transfer kit
- 1.5" TC sight glass
- Pressure manifold bundle
- Temp coil 4" TC

Anything else recommended?

Thinking of changing out the thermometer with a thermowell for the glycol chiller probe. Is there a better way to measure temps from this conical under pressure?

And, I rolled the conical over cement & tile with 5 gallons in it, and it is TIPPY. Any best practices to make that safer?

Read through the last 10 pages or so here. Maybe the last 20. You will thank yourself for it! Many great tips.
I think with the new cf5 you get a thermowell with the temp coil kit. So yes- for sure use this! (On the old cf5 they came standard- they have since changed the thermometer set-up). Did you get a chiller package, or just the coil?

Now- I have read (again, here- in the last 10-20 pages) that they are VERY unsteady when using legs. Someone here uses a brick on the shelf. Another user will keep his foot on the shelf when rolling.

 

[Jag75]

Just bought a CF5, my first SS fermenter. Just arrived yesterday and already PBW'd cleaned--no leaks (unlike my first three times filling up my Fast Ferment). Looks amazing and I cannot wait to pair it with the Icemaster Max 2 glycol chiller arriving in a few days. First beer up will be a stout, first time fermenting under pressure, cold crashing, and transferring O2 free under pressure to a keg. I am curious what all this will mean in the finished product.

With the CF5, I bought:
- Casters
- Reinforcing shelf
- Pressure transfer kit
- 1.5" TC sight glass
- Pressure manifold bundle
- Temp coil 4" TC

Anything else recommended?

Thinking of changing out the thermometer with a thermowell for the glycol chiller probe. Is there a better way to measure temps from this conical under pressure?

And, I rolled the conical over cement & tile with 5 gallons in it, and it is TIPPY. Any best practices to make that safer?

Congrats ! You'll love it . Be careful fermenting under pressure . I had krausen get pretty high once . You dont want it plugging the relief valve. I use the blow off until the very end then I add the pressure set up . I'm usually at 5 psi . Yes it is top heavy . I keep my foot on the shelf to keep it steady. Look into the racking arm .

Happy brewing !

 

[Bean]

racking arm is a must, at least on the CF15. I also bough an additional butterfly valve from amazon to put between the vessel and sampling port. This allows me to swap accessories out and not have the carb stone get all gunked up and if the sampling port does start to leak I can kill it with the valve.

You'll want to also get a Teflon gasket to use with the racking arm, much easier to spin.

 

[Yesfan]

Just bought a CF5, my first SS fermenter. Just arrived yesterday and already PBW'd cleaned--no leaks (unlike my first three times filling up my Fast Ferment). Looks amazing and I cannot wait to pair it with the Icemaster Max 2 glycol chiller arriving in a few days. First beer up will be a stout, first time fermenting under pressure, cold crashing, and transferring O2 free under pressure to a keg. I am curious what all this will mean in the finished product.

With the CF5, I bought:
- Casters
- Reinforcing shelf
- Pressure transfer kit
- 1.5" TC sight glass
- Pressure manifold bundle
- Temp coil 4" TC

Anything else recommended?

Thinking of changing out the thermometer with a thermowell for the glycol chiller probe. Is there a better way to measure temps from this conical under pressure?

And, I rolled the conical over cement & tile with 5 gallons in it, and it is TIPPY. Any best practices to make that safer?

I agree about the teflon gasket on the racking arm. Night and day difference after using one. You can get a 5 pack from Amazon pretty cheap.

They are top heavy. A better description for it would be front heavy because of all the ports. I have the shorty legs on my CF10 and it is tipsy. What I do when I have to roll it around is make sure to push it from the front or pull it from the back leg. Whatever direction you're going, you want the two front casters out in front of the bracing shelf and not underneath it. Did you get the standard bracing shelf or the extended version? The extended version will make a difference in stability.

Also, what made you go with the 1.5" sight glass vs the 2"?