Spike Conical- observations and best practices

[CodeSection]

We have a pretty weird house. The "garage" is really a carpenter's station that I'm turning half of into my little fermentation area. The large portion of what used to be the entire garage consists of a spare room with storage and another room for laundry.

I'm using a Hellfire burner. My electric stovetop can barely boil 2.5 gallons. With the Hellfire it has to be uncovered and outside. That leaves me little room out front to where I need to get it, let alone the lack of a pulley to hold my BIAB over for most of the boil. The front of the garage is covered by an awning that leads immediately to a downward sloped driveway.

If I understand correctly, you are in the back of the garage where there are two rooms.....guest room and laundry room. Could you cut a doorway in the wall that separates those rooms from the front of the garage?

Could you not brew at the garage door opening?

 

[KookyBrewsky]

If I understand correctly, you are in the back of the garage where there are two rooms.....guest room and laundry room. Could you cut a doorway in the wall that separates those rooms from the front of the garage?

Could you not brew at the garage door opening?

Most of my family lives together, if my little sister lived with us we'd have 4 generations here. I don't think my grandma would let me start a conversion project, the tiny house/raised gardens/etc.. out back were enough for a while lol. There is already a door from the outside to the separate room, a door through that wall I can only imagine being marginally helpful.

There are plenty of pathways, 4+ at least. The main issue is getting from the tiny house to any level surface at all that isn't yard or dirt... All paths start with being stranded outback. This was never an issue since carrying a 5 gallon plastic fermenter is nothing. Should've planned better... Luckily it's just a pulley we built.. perhaps I can move the platform to the side of the house and just brew right next to the garage.

Images of a monster truck wheel dolly come to mind.

Garage door opening leads to a pathway to the front door covered by an awning. The spot not covered by the awning is a downward sloping garage.

Edit: just had a revelation. There's a platform of pavers I can brew on out front, with no awning... and the path from there is a smooth shot to the front of the garage! Maybe I can convince the family to replace the pavers with cement. I'd be without my pulley system again though unless I built yet another new one, separate from any existing structure.

 

[NeoBrew]

It would seem a two wheeled hand truck would solve your problem nicely. You can get them with inflatable tires that can handle a fair bit of terrain. You might want to create some padding or wood crib to rest the conical into. Then just tip it back and wheel it in.

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Industrial-Scientific-Hand-Trucks/zgbs/industrial/553520

 

[Beholder]

Most of my family lives together, if my little sister lived with us we'd have 4 generations here. I don't think my grandma would let me start a conversion project, the tiny house/raised gardens/etc.. out back were enough for a while lol. There is already a door from the outside to the separate room, a door through that wall I can only imagine being marginally helpful.

There are plenty of pathways, 4+ at least. The main issue is getting from the tiny house to any level surface at all that isn't yard or dirt... All paths start with being stranded outback. This was never an issue since carrying a 5 gallon plastic fermenter is nothing. Should've planned better... Luckily it's just a pulley we built.. perhaps I can move the platform to the side of the house and just brew right next to the garage.

Images of a monster truck wheel dolly come to mind.

Garage door opening leads to a pathway to the front door covered by an awning. The spot not covered by the awning is a downward sloping garage.

Edit: just had a revelation. There's a platform of pavers I can brew on out front, with no awning... and the path from there is a smooth shot to the front of the garage! Maybe I can convince the family to replace the pavers with cement. I'd be without my pulley system again though unless I built yet another new one, separate from any existing structure.

I recall an episode of BrewDogs (did a few seasons run on Esquire) where they used a gimbal system to brew on a boat in high seas. Now that would be a cool project. Shame you came up with a much more reasonable idea.

 

[CodeSection]

It would seem a two wheeled hand truck would solve your problem nicely. You can get them with inflatable tires that can handle a fair bit of terrain. You might want to create some padding or wood crib to rest the conical into. Then just tip it back and wheel it in.

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Industrial-Scientific-Hand-Trucks/zgbs/industrial/553520

While you may have experience with this method, I just can't see a 11.25 gallons+ (depending upon the 10 gal batch, recipe, and the brewer's process) of wort being able to tilt very far without it having issues of it going pass the main body of the fermenter and into the lid cavity. Then you have the sloshing of the wort to contend with.

It might be viable, but I wouldn't be surprised if there weren't problems. I would think any movement of the fermenter would be on a level surface.

It sounds like the real solution is to move the brewing area closer to the garage. Then one could use longer tubing to transfer the wort into the fermenter. Thus avoiding any combination of issues that could arise from trying to move the fermenter especially in this case.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

While you may have experience with this method, I just can't see a 11.25 gallons+ (depending upon the 10 gal batch, recipe, and the brewer's process) of wort being able to tilt very far without it having issues of it going pass the main body of the fermenter and into the lid cavity. Then you have the sloshing of the wort to contend with.

It might be viable, but I wouldn't be surprised if there weren't problems. I would think any movement of the fermenter would be on a level surface.

It sounds like the real solution is to move the brewing area closer to the garage. Then one could use longer tubing to transfer the wort into the fermenter. Thus avoiding any combination of issues that could arise from trying to move the fermenter especially in this case.

this is my only solution, it’d let me utilize the casters. I have enough silicon tubing to reach smooth ground. It wouldn’t be that far away anyway from the brew kettle. Just a shame I finished my spot up not long ago and would be forced to move it should I upgrade my setup.

 

[Stand]

Why not put your kettle on dolly instead of fermenter?

 

[KookyBrewsky]

Are the Spike+ kettle handles made to withstand 5-10 gallons?

either way, moving my setup to the front of the house is what I’m going to have to do. I’m not error prone, but I foresee a disaster at some point wheeling either a large fermenter or kettle over rough terrain.

 

[eric19312]

Why not transfer your wort from brewing area to fermentor in buckets or corny kegs?

 

[KookyBrewsky]

I’m already using plastic buckets that are easily carried. This is all based around getting a CF10 conical which I wouldn’t be able to move from the backyard.

Edit : you mean from brew area, into buckets to carry, then into stationary fermenter at front of house?

 

[eric19312]

Are the Spike+ kettle handles made to withstand 5-10 gallons?

either way, moving my setup to the front of the house is what I’m going to have to do. I’m not error prone, but I foresee a disaster at some point wheeling either a large fermenter or kettle over rough terrain.

It looks like answer is yes but be careful:

https://spikebrewing.freshdesk.com/...handles-say-do-not-lift-when-full-what-gives-

 

[eric19312]

I’m already using plastic buckets that are easily carried. This is all based around getting a CF10 conical which I wouldn’t be able to move from the backyard.

Edit : you mean from brew area, into buckets to carry, then into stationary fermenter at front of house?

yes move the wort in the buckets to your fermentor.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

ex

yes move the wort in the buckets to your fermentor.

That is viable, I was just worried about exposure to oxygen having to transfer the wort multiple times. Trying to find a more direct solution that that could be a contender.

 

[eric19312]

ex


That is viable, I was just worried about exposure to oxygen having to transfer the wort multiple times. Trying to find a more direct solution that that could be a contender.

Oxygen is not an issue between kettle and fermentor. There are even systems sold for oxygenating the wort inline between kettle and fermentor.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

Oxygen is not an issue between kettle and fermentor. There are even systems sold for oxygenating the wort inline between kettle and fermentor.

having a brain fart, I always oxygenate in a bucket! This could be a win.

 

[Jag75]

I brew in my kitchen . I keep my stuff in a spare room. I have the Cf5 on the bigger bracing shelf and casters . My hallway is tile and let me tell you I have to tread lightly. I keep my foot on the shelf because the grout lines are uneven in spots and when the FV is full its top heavy. I could imagine 10 gallons even more so . You might look into making a cart with big wheels that you can secure your Cf10 on for transportation.

 

[Jag75]

Scratch my idea. Moving wort in buckets to the fermenter is a great idea . You start oxygenating as well . 2 birds 1 stone. Good idea @eric19312

 

[CodeSection]

I would be concerned about infections since you would be exposing the 11.25+ gallons of wort at least four times and probably six times (pour into five gallon bucket, then pour into fermenter x three times). I would be hesitant to perform that process inside the house because of all the nasties floating around, just imagine performing this outside. Don't focus on how that process oxygenates the wort, but focus on potential infections.

Perhaps you can perform closed transfers. But then you will be changing out lines and would need at least two pumps (one pump at brew area and another pump by fermenter). More costs, more items to clean.

Lastly, keeping it a simple repeatable process that doesn't increase work, that doesn't increase the brew day, and that doesn't increase chances of bad things happening is the goal. Exposing the wort and bucket to the outside several times is not a good idea. I don't see using buckets back and forth as being sustainable very long. You will have another piece of equipment (bucket) to clean that could harbor an infection in a small scratch inside. Your process should be reducing the chance of an infection, not increasing the chance.

If @KookyBrewsky decides to use buckets, please keep up posted how it works and be sure not to trip while carrying the bucket full of wort.

Good luck.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

I would be concerned about infections since you would be exposing the 11.25+ gallons of wort at least four times and probably six times (pour into five gallon bucket, then pour into fermenter x three times). I would be hesitant to perform that process inside the house because of all the nasties floating around, just imagine performing this outside. Don't focus on how that process oxygenates the wort, but focus on potential infections.

Perhaps you can perform closed transfers. But then you will be changing out lines and would need at least two pumps (one pump at brew area and another pump by fermenter). More costs, more items to clean.

Lastly, keeping it a simple repeatable process that doesn't increase work, that doesn't increase the brew day, and that doesn't increase chances of bad things happening is the goal. Exposing the wort and bucket to the outside several times is not a good idea. I don't see using buckets back and forth as being sustainable very long. You will have another piece of equipment (bucket) to clean that could harbor an infection in a small scratch inside. Your process should be reducing the chance of an infection, not increasing the chance.

If @KookyBrewsky decides to use buckets, please keep up posted how it works and be sure not to trip while carrying the bucket full of wort.

Good luck.

sigh, always something, right?

you are correct. I’ve yet to have any infection outside of a set of unsanitary bottles but I don’t feel like taking the chance. Right now, once the conical arrives, brew day will be out front!

I read a Spike page regarding wort transfer. It says to use the bottom dump port so I got the extra attachment barb. Is there any requirement to make that work other than having the wort level in the kettle higher than the level in the fermenter? My Hellfire burner has the leg extensions.

 

[Jag75]

Okay , codesection brings up a good point of that much wort in buckets . Do they make 11- 12 gallon buckets ? One shot .....or how long of a distance do you have to go ? Could you get a pump and pump to your fermenter?

 

[KookyBrewsky]

Okay , codesection brings up a good point of that much wort in buckets . Do they make 11- 12 gallon buckets ? One shot .....or how long of a distance do you have to go ? Could you get a pump and pump to your fermenter?

It’s hard to explain but my brew section is close to as far away from the fermenter area I can get, but on the same side of the house. My only option really is to move my brew area. Then I can transfer wort in the long silicon tube I have and the fermenter will already be on the stable ground it needs to be on.

 

[Stand]

It’s hard to explain but my brew section is close to as far away from the fermenter area I can get, but on the same side of the house. My only option really is to move my brew area. Then I can transfer wort in the long silicon tube I have and the fermenter will already be on the stable ground it needs to be on.

That sounds like a better solution if it's possible, but if there's a will there's a way.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

That sounds like a better solution if it's possible, but if there's a will there's a way.

the absolute most ideal is I convince my family to let me pour cement right next to the garage on the side of the house and swoop, we have a uniform brew/fermentation area, at least it'll all be on the same connected ground.

for now, this community has helped me problem solve plenty and I have multiple solutions.

If I want to brew out back now and then for a 5 gallon batch, all I do is transfer wort to a bucket, carry it, then transfer it to my fermenter (one extra transfer).

If I don't want to or I'm brewing 10 gallons, I just brew out front and roll the bad boy to its spot.

 

[eric19312]

Why not transfer your wort from brewing area to fermentor in buckets or corny kegs?

I also suggested corny kegs. These can be sanitized, filled and then closed for the walk from the back yard to the garage. Use a siphon to get the beer out of the keg into the fermentor. You could get away with only one keg and use it for multiple trips.

 

[eric19312]

sigh, always something, right?

you are correct. I’ve yet to have any infection outside of a set of unsanitary bottles but I don’t feel like taking the chance. Right now, once the conical arrives, brew day will be out front!

I read a Spike page regarding wort transfer. It says to use the bottom dump port so I got the extra attachment barb. Is there any requirement to make that work other than having the wort level in the kettle higher than the level in the fermenter? My Hellfire burner has the leg extensions.

I think this is mainly for people pumping the wort from their kettle to the tank. With a pump no need to worry about height.

In your situation without a pump you will need to get the wort higher than your fermentor max fill in order to get it to siphon. in that case there is no problem filling it through either of the holes on top.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

I think this is mainly for people pumping the wort from their kettle to the tank. With a pump no need to worry about height.

In your situation without a pump you will need to get the wort higher than your fermentor max fill in order to get it to siphon. in that case there is no problem filling it through either of the holes on top.

alright thanks, lots of nuances and options to this fermenter, I suspect it'll keep me satisfied for decades!

don't plan on getting any kegs until they're going to be placed in a keezer

 

[JRG]

I just added a sight glass to my cf5 and was wondering if others are dumping the trub prior to pitching yeast? I brewed a NEIPA this weekend with 6oz of hops between flameout and whirlpool. I thought I did a good job getting a trub cone in the kettle. I transferred the wort to the cf5 and the sight glass looked fairly clear. I oxygenated and pitched yeast and then went on to cleaning up. I came back after cleaning to look at sight glass the sight glass was full. Since I had already pitched yeast I left it alone. Should I wait to pitch yeast on future batches until this settles out so I can dump the trub first and then pitch?

 

[eric19312]

I've done it both ways. For now I am in camp that the sooner the yeast gets pitched after chilling the better. This weekend I brewed and transferred, pitched the yeast and came back 8 hours later and did a trub dump. Might of dumped some of my yeast in the process but seems to be taking off just fine.

In summer when it is hard to get wort to pitching temps I will transfer to the tank at 75-80F and then let the chamber cool it down before pitching. When I do this I will dump the trub before pitching.

 

[Vale71]

I just added a sight glass to my cf5 and was wondering if others are dumping the trub prior to pitching yeast? I brewed a NEIPA this weekend with 6oz of hops between flameout and whirlpool. I thought I did a good job getting a trub cone in the kettle. I transferred the wort to the cf5 and the sight glass looked fairly clear. I oxygenated and pitched yeast and then went on to cleaning up. I came back after cleaning to look at sight glass the sight glass was full. Since I had already pitched yeast I left it alone. Should I wait to pitch yeast on future batches until this settles out so I can dump the trub first and then pitch?

You can dump any leftover trub even after pitching yeast. Any yeast that might get dumped in the process has already settled anyway and is completely useless as far as fermentation is concerned.

 

[CodeSection]

Are the Spike+ kettle handles made to withstand 5-10 gallons?.....

It looks like answer is yes but be careful:

https://spikebrewing.freshdesk.com/...handles-say-do-not-lift-when-full-what-gives-

I think we need to be careful here as the answer Spike gave was in relation to their FLEX product only. It appears the FLEX handles are different than what is on the Spike and Spike+ kettles as well as what is on the Spike CF series conicals. That sorta makes sense as I suspect they thought the end user of a FLEX might be trying to lift it to place it into a freezer.

Scouring Spike's website makes no mention that the handles are rated to hold up when trying to lift a full kettle, kettle+ or CF series concicals. It would be prudent for anyone who wants to attempt such a feat to reach out to Spike to make sure the handles could hold because no one should want to expose themselves to injury or to damaging their equipment.

 

[jekeane]

sigh, time to problem solve the fine print! I can't imagine my family letting my build a Fermenter-Brick-Road in the yard that I skip along to alcoholic glory.

The legs on the CF10 and a weak point to me. I would avoid rolling it on anything but even ground especially if you dont have the stabilization shelf. I have to roll ours on the brewery floor pretty regularly and I can see when the legs have been from someone not being very careful. I would consider transporting your kettle to your fermentation area rather than you conical to your kettle.

 

[eric19312]

I think we need to be careful here as the answer Spike gave was in relation to their FLEX product only. It appears the FLEX handles are different than what is on the Spike and Spike+ kettles as well as what is on the Spike CF series conicals. That sorta makes sense as I suspect they thought the end user of a FLEX might be trying to lift it to place it into a freezer.

Scouring Spike's website makes no mention that the handles are rated to hold up when trying to lift a full kettle, kettle+ or CF series concicals. It would be prudent for anyone who wants to attempt such a feat to reach out to Spike to make sure the handles could hold because no one should want to expose themselves to injury or to damaging their equipment.

Hey thanks I thought he was thinking about the Flex+ but now see kettle...
No idea about the kettle handles but I also have the 20 gallon kettle and no way would I try to lift that guy full by the handles or any other way.

 

[specialkayme]

I think we need to be careful here as the answer Spike gave was in relation to their FLEX product only. It appears the FLEX handles are different than what is on the Spike and Spike+ kettles as well as what is on the Spike CF series conicals. That sorta makes sense as I suspect they thought the end user of a FLEX might be trying to lift it to place it into a freezer.

Scouring Spike's website makes no mention that the handles are rated to hold up when trying to lift a full kettle, kettle+ or CF series concicals. It would be prudent for anyone who wants to attempt such a feat to reach out to Spike to make sure the handles could hold because no one should want to expose themselves to injury or to damaging their equipment.

I've moved Spike's 15 gallon Kettle+ with about 9 gallons of water before. The handles held up fine. The weight, however, did not make it an enjoyable move.

I have no idea if would hold up to repeated, constant stress like that though.

 

[ShaLaH]

I just got a CF5. I found the the welds around the ports to be a bit inconsistent though.
When running my finger around the inside of the ports, one is real smooth while the others are bumpy or have a lip around them or small ding. I'm not sure how welds should feel on the inside of the fermenter. I was expecting uniform smoothness around each port. Is this normal?

 

[jekeane]

I just got a CF5. I found the the welds around the ports to be a bit inconsistent though.
When running my finger around the inside of the ports, one is real smooth while the others are bumpy or have a lip around them or small ding. I'm not sure how welds should feel on the inside of the fermenter. I was expecting uniform smoothness around each port. Is this normal?

Photos would probably be easier.

Generally they are smooth feeling though.

 

[ShaLaH]

Here are some pics. It's tough to get good pics with the shiny SS reflecting back.

 

[Yesfan]

You can see some of the weld in a couple of pics. I don't see that with either of mine.

However, that's a pretty solid looking weld. If that were mine I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. I can "feel" the areas on mine where the legs and handles are attached. I can even see the outlines of those pieces. They still feel pretty smooth so as long as they don't feel jagged, I think you're alright.

 

[ShaLaH]

Can these be sanded down or is that a bad idea?

 

[jekeane]

Can these be sanded down or is that a bad idea?

If you bought it with spike I would discuss it with them before attempting to sand anything down. You need special non ferrous stainless specific tools / paper for that.

I don't really see anything worth fussing with there but it's hard to tell. I would go take a look at mine but there are all full at the moment.

Spike stands by everything they do so if you got it from them or a vendor I would email spike with your pictures. They do a ton of welds a day so Im sure its inevitable that some arent perfect and need to be addressed.

 

[Nate R]

+1 to all the above! Spike has usually a Less than 1 business day turn around time. So, email them today, expect a response by Tuesday at latest. Although I bet you hear back sooner.