Spike Conical- observations and best practices

[eric19312]

@Jag75 @Nate R The last batch I kegged, I had the elbow below the valve instead of above it. I bought a 2" triclamp/1/2" barb with a piece of 2ft silicone hosing.

I only dumped once, which was day 12-14, can't remember. It was an IPA with 6oz of dry hops. I didn't cold crash (not able to), so when I was ready to keg............

transferred the beer to kegs (scales are your friend)
dumped trub to a gallon pitcher (about 1/2 gallon amount)
"harvested" yeast to a pint jar. Pretty much, when the sediment went from peanut butter to creamy looking, I filled a sanitized pint mason jar. There was still some trub in there, but it's US-05 so, not a crucial save.

I cracked my valve about 1-2 notches. With the exception of my beer line clogging up with hop debris, I think I'm going to go the valve on top route from here on out. Obviously, the next batch I'll try to do some short multiple dumps vs waiting til kegging. I should have dumped first before doing any racking to my kegs. That would have eliminated my clogged disconnect issue.

Even though I didn't wait a lot longer, I wonder if "cold crashing" at a higher temp kept the sediment from really compacting to where it stalled. I don't know if it was that or if I had the valve above the elbow. This is only the second batch I've done in mine. I've also wondered if it would be better to have a reducer of some sorts between the elbow and barb. That way there's more of a taper going from the conical to the hose vs 2" straight to 1/2 like with the barb.

Just thought I'd share my experience thus far in case it helps.

Keep these coming. I'd be interested in a picture from the inside after you are done racking kegs and done final dump but before you hose it down. I am wondering if the 2 inch plumbing on the bottom of the tank allows for a more even distribution of the dump and perhaps makes punching through less likely.

 

[jekeane]

For brewing purposes there should not be anything surviving boiling temperatures. At work we hold new barrels above 140° for 20m to effectively kill off Brett in the wood. However, wild yeasts and bacteria are definitely understudied so extra caution is great. I have transitioned to the mindset that all of these organisms can be easily managed when using proper cleaning. In the past I kept everything separate now I just keep a few plastic things separate.

Probably getting a bit off the conical discussion though.

If we have somehow gotten our equipment moldy thats another story and is probably a sign of a bigger problem heh : p

 

[Yesfan]

Keep these coming. I'd be interested in a picture from the inside after you are done racking kegs and done final dump but before you hose it down. I am wondering if the 2 inch plumbing on the bottom of the tank allows for a more even distribution of the dump and perhaps makes punching through less likely.

Sure thing. Next beer is looking like the amber I done earlier this year. I've got plenty of cascade to hop it up if recreating the last batch is recommended.

 

[Nate R]

There is some great math and discussion over on a thread about canning wort.
Granted different levels of bacteria etc. But a fun read

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/all-grain-canned-wort-so-far-so-good.676790/

 

[eric19312]

you instapot guys understand your conical doesn't fit in the pot right? This isn't surgery and sterile is not a reasonable goal.

 

[Nate R]

you instapot guys understand your conical doesn't fit in the pot right? This isn't surgery and sterile is not a reasonable goal.

You havent seen the new "super size" instapot!! Big enough to cook a whole cow!

 

[Stand]

Has anybody done whole hops in a CF10?

I have been using hop baskets for my Pale Ales, but I made an IPA for Big Brew and It calls for 7oz. I bought a bazooka tube to stick over racking arm, but I forgot to put it on!

Anybody tries throwing them in loose?

 

[Beholder]

you instapot guys understand your conical doesn't fit in the pot right? This isn't surgery and sterile is not a reasonable goal.

I use it for sterilizing containers and non-hopped wort for yeast preparations and long-term storage. Since the numbers are much lower, one bad cell can spoil the bunch!

For hopped wort, sterilizing is heavy-handed, but earlier reference was to those dealing with wild fermentations and Brett, so certainly better to be heavy than light handed there.

 

[Stand]

I use it for sterilizing containers and non-hopped wort for yeast preparations and long-term storage. Since the numbers are much lower, one bad cell can spoil the bunch!

For hopped wort, sterilizing is heavy-handed, but earlier reference was to those dealing with wild fermentations and Brett, so certainly better to be heavy than light handed there.

I tried to do the same thing awhile back and gave up. USDA says 250 to kill botulism. Time if I remember is more a function of the size/shape of what you are canning.

Botulism is fairly rare, so the odds are good you would be fine, but I wouldn't risk it.

Cheers!

 

[Beholder]

I tried to do the same thing awhile back and gave up. USDA says 250 to kill botulism. Time if I remember is more a function of the size/shape of what you are canning.

Botulism is fairly rare, so the odds are good you would be fine, but I wouldn't risk it.

Cheers!

It is good to take care, though I have no concerns about botulism as it is anaerobic, and I do not store any samples in vacuum conditions. As far as sterilization, guidance from USDA references a temperature range between 240-250. You’re right that time helps ensure temperature equilibrium for different size/shapes of objects. In addition, since the Instant Pot oscillates its pressure between 10.5-11.5 psi in and air/steam environment (due to the cycling of heat addition), a longer time also ensures you stay in the recommended heat range.

There’s a nice temperature figure in https://nchfp.uga.edu/publications/usda/GUIDE01_HomeCan_rev0715.pdf.

It illustrates what’s already been commented by others in the thread, that boiling is sufficient to address a great majority of infectious vectors. For special conditions (e.g. anaerobic canning of acidic foods), higher temperatures are needed.

 

[Stand]

Botulism is the only thing I would worry about.

Canning creates a vacuum; how are you storing with oxygen?

Wort is not acidic enough to get it out of the danger zone for botulism. The fermentation is what makes it acidic, and that hasn't happened.

Can't find any resources saying instapot is acceptable by USDA standards, but they may very well be too cautious on this. Who knows?

I need a beer.

 

[Beholder]

Botulism is the only thing I would worry about.

Canning creates a vacuum; how are you storing with oxygen?

Wort is not acidic enough to get it out of the danger zone for botulism. The fermentation is what makes it acidic, and that hasn't happened.

Can't find any resources saying instapot is acceptable by USDA standards, but they may very well be too cautious on this. Who knows?

I need a beer.

In short, I’m not canning. I use the instant pot to sterilize test tubes, pipettes, mason jars, etc. and non-hopped wort for long term storage after growth. I don’t vacuum seal anything, but flame lip, add yeast, cap, wait (if growing), and store, so it’s in any oxygen environment.

My general practice is to pull off some hopped wort from a brew (lowers the need for sterilizing the wort due to anti-microbial properties of hops), dilute to SG growth levels, and sterilize the wort (if I need to do growths from very small yeast colonies). I typically store in agar slants (long term) or wort in test tubes (short term and growth from single colonies).

If I want to ensure a clean yeast sample for storage, I agar (also sterilized) plate a dilution, which also helps to indicate if any of the sampled batch has a low level infection.

I’ve never seen USDA endorsements for specific equipment, only the conditions. I only use the instant pot for convenience and set-and-forget from the controller, but others have gotten manual pressure cookers and tapped for pressure readings to be certain.

 

[jekeane]

you instapot guys understand your conical doesn't fit in the pot right? This isn't surgery and sterile is not a reasonable goal.

My post was specific to killing all of the mixed fermentation and diastatic strains I use. They will live in all of your silicone / edpm or porous surfuces. Im not concerned about the non porous surfaces when using the instapot.

 

[Stand]

In short, I’m not canning. I use the instant pot to sterilize test tubes, pipettes, mason jars, etc. and non-hopped wort for long term storage after growth. I don’t vacuum seal anything, but flame lip, add yeast, cap, wait (if growing), and store, so it’s in any oxygen environment.

My general practice is to pull off some hopped wort from a brew (lowers the need for sterilizing the wort due to anti-microbial properties of hops), dilute to SG growth levels, and sterilize the wort (if I need to do growths from very small yeast colonies). I typically store in agar slants (long term) or wort in test tubes (short term and growth from single colonies).

If I want to ensure a clean yeast sample for storage, I agar (also sterilized) plate a dilution, which also helps to indicate if any of the sampled batch has a low level infection.

I’ve never seen USDA endorsements for specific equipment, only the conditions. I only use the instant pot for convenience and set-and-forget from the controller, but others have gotten manual pressure cookers and tapped for pressure readings to be certain.

I think I misunderstood. I thought you were storing wort at room temperature after pressure canning in instapot.

Essentially making canned starter wort (which would be slick).

You seem to be talking about freezing. I sanitize my glycol and 50ml vials in my instapot.

Sounds good.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

Hello, I'm about to pull the trigger on a Spike conical but I'm second guessing myself. I don't have the amount of drinkers in my household to justify kegging. I still plan on bottling for the foreseeable future.

Are the benefits of spending $1,200 to ferment in a temp controlled conical worth it over my 5 gallon bucket with 2 wet towels for insulation and bottles of ice to still only bottle my beers? I'm not sure if the benefits will be anything but marginal. I can keep that almost consistently 68F, which is where it defaults. I, however, cannot cold crash, which seems to be the true benefit over generalized automation (I have a lot of free time right now anyway). I can't see much benefit to fermenting under pressure beyond recycled yeast health which isn't critical to me as a noob, I have one batch of yeast I've recycled and I'm kind of too nervous to use it...

What do you all think?

 

[eric19312]

Hello, I'm about to pull the trigger on a Spike conical but I'm second guessing myself. I don't have the amount of drinkers in my household to justify kegging. I still plan on bottling for the foreseeable future.

Are the benefits of spending $1,200 to ferment in a temp controlled conical worth it over my 5 gallon bucket with 2 wet towels for insulation and bottles of ice to still only bottle my beers? I'm not sure if the benefits will be anything but marginal. I can keep that almost consistently 68F, which is where it defaults. I, however, cannot cold crash, which seems to be the true benefit over generalized automation (I have a lot of free time right now anyway). I can't see much benefit to fermenting under pressure beyond recycled yeast health which isn't critical to me as a noob, I have one batch of yeast I've recycled and I'm kind of too nervous to use it...

What do you all think?

I think the answer is no. I say put the money into kegging first. There is no reason you need large demand to support a kegging habit. There are small kegs you can buy if you don't want to do 5 gallon batches. Kegs also keep well once you figure out oxygen free transfers.

As your kegging practice develops you will start to want to move away from buckets and carboys but doesn't have to be right away. You might find stainless steel bucket fermentors and a used chest freezer are a lot better fit with your brewing style.

 

[Beholder]

Hello, I'm about to pull the trigger on a Spike conical but I'm second guessing myself. I don't have the amount of drinkers in my household to justify kegging. I still plan on bottling for the foreseeable future.

Are the benefits of spending $1,200 to ferment in a temp controlled conical worth it over my 5 gallon bucket with 2 wet towels for insulation and bottles of ice to still only bottle my beers? I'm not sure if the benefits will be anything but marginal. I can keep that almost consistently 68F, which is where it defaults. I, however, cannot cold crash, which seems to be the true benefit over generalized automation (I have a lot of free time right now anyway). I can't see much benefit to fermenting under pressure beyond recycled yeast health which isn't critical to me as a noob, I have one batch of yeast I've recycled and I'm kind of too nervous to use it...

What do you all think?

There are a lot of solutions in between, like a temperature controlled fridge / freezer that can accommodate your buckets. If you want the expansion of a bunch of functionality, all in one, then conical it is, though you will also need some form of temperature control for it as well. This can range from a cooler with ice packs to a DIY AC chiller to a commercial glycol chiller.

Aside from pressure fermentation (am advanced technique), a pressure vessel also gives you the capability of spunding, which helps retain hops aroma and avoid carb bite associated with burst carbonation. This can also be accomplished with corny keg fermentation and a dip tube for clear draws without trub.

My advice, you would be better to go invest in temperature chamber (small fridge or freezer) and inkbird along with a Cornelius keg or two and a spunding valve and still have several hundred bucks left in the bank. This would allow you to ferment, spund, and serve and avoid bottling. Food for thought...

 

[KookyBrewsky]

I already had the items I needed in my cart for a DIY glycol chiller.

My problems with the freezer are expansion possibilities and repairability. If I want to chill two 10 gallon batches, I would need two fridges, let alone adding a brite tank or anything else. With my DIY glycol chiller all I need are extra coils, a pump, and a neoprene jacket. Plus I can't fit two+ upright freezers in my garage right now. Then there is repairability. When it poops out, I either hire someone to repair it or I buy another one. If my DIY glycol chiller poops out I buy another $100 AC unit or have someone easily repair the visible organs of it that I'm using.

*there are absolutely no reasonable upright freezers, used, where I live. They're either not functioning already or $400+.

I've done thorough research and a freezer simply isn't in my horizon. Either my setup stays as-is because it's perfectly fine for what I'm doing, or I progress into conicals with a $200 DIY glycol chiller that is easily expandable even though I'm going to be bottling all my beer.

As for kegging, it's enticing but I bet most of my beer would be in the keg for months at a time. I'm the only person in my household that drinks often. Half of the beer I've given away has been to friends around town.

Once I find a recipe I love I plan to brew it often in 10 gallon batches and give it away. My local craft brewery said they're willing to help me out and sample my stuff and give me advice. Then my second fermentation chamber would be for experimentation. I have no desire to keg 5-10 gallon batches when I'd be the only one that drinks it. No one really comes over here, especially during this pandemic. I feel as though I'm one of the very few people on here that still feels like bottling beer. I've seen one other, though I can't recall the username.

Eh... we'll see. I can't see $1,200 (~$800 for the CF10 conical and accessories, ~$225 discounted TC-100 chiller, and $200-$250 for a DIY glycol chiller) being worth it for bottling right now. Even though it'd be so sweet.

this post sounds completely anti-keg which I'm not. I'd love to do it, I just don't think that's the right choice out of all my choices, from leaving my setup alone, to buying conicals, to kegging. I think it's my least desired move. I do not feel like increasing my drinking frequency, nor wasting beer, I can't even go to the gym right now...

 

[Nate R]

Hello, I'm about to pull the trigger on a Spike conical but I'm second guessing myself. I don't have the amount of drinkers in my household to justify kegging. I still plan on bottling for the foreseeable future.

Are the benefits of spending $1,200 to ferment in a temp controlled conical worth it over my 5 gallon bucket with 2 wet towels for insulation and bottles of ice to still only bottle my beers? I'm not sure if the benefits will be anything but marginal. I can keep that almost consistently 68F, which is where it defaults. I, however, cannot cold crash, which seems to be the true benefit over generalized automation (I have a lot of free time right now anyway). I can't see much benefit to fermenting under pressure beyond recycled yeast health which isn't critical to me as a noob, I have one batch of yeast I've recycled and I'm kind of too nervous to use it...

What do you all think?

Here's a counter-point-
You could crash, then carbonate, then bottle right from the cf. Bottles cold and ready to drink about 24 hours after fermentation is done.
Your bottled beer will be clearer, quicker.

Note- you will need a $100 counter pressure filler (or a beer gun) to do this. Or look up the $5 diy version here.

Also, i think you may appreciate the improved quality of the beet with a conical.

But.... dude its a lot of cash to lay out!!!
P.s. you may want a glycol chiller, so more money... if you give a mouse a cookie... lol

 

[KookyBrewsky]

Here's a counter-point-
You could crash, then carbonate, then bottle right from the cf. Bottles cold and ready to drink about 24 hours after fermentation is done.
Your bottled beer will be clearer, quicker.

Note- you will need a $100 counter pressure filler (or a beer gun) to do this. Or look up the $5 diy version here.

Also, i think you may appreciate the improved quality of the beet with a conical.

But.... dude its a lot of cash to lay out!!!
P.s. you may want a glycol chiller, so more money... if you give a mouse a cookie... lol

Yes, I had just posted right before you did. I plan to DIY the glycol chiller should I do this. Didn't know there was a DIY counter pressure filler, for that cheap either! Interesting points. Still not sure. Everyone seems to say keg but my heart says meh.

 

[CodeSection]

I already had the items I needed in my cart for a DIY glycol chiller.

My problems with the freezer are expansion possibilities and repairability. If I want to chill two 10 gallon batches, I would need two fridges, let alone adding a brite tank or anything else. With my DIY glycol chiller all I need are extra coils, a pump, and a neoprene jacket. Plus I can't fit two+ upright freezers in my garage right now. Then there is repairability. When it poops out, I either hire someone to repair it or I buy another one. If my DIY glycol chiller poops out I buy another $100 AC unit or have someone easily repair the visible organs of it that I'm using.

*there are absolutely no reasonable upright freezers, used, where I live. They're either not functioning already or $400+.

I've done thorough research and a freezer simply isn't in my horizon. Either my setup stays as-is because it's perfectly fine for what I'm doing, or I progress into conicals with a $200 DIY glycol chiller that is easily expandable even though I'm going to be bottling all my beer.

As for kegging, it's enticing but I bet most of my beer would be in the keg for months at a time. I'm the only person in my household that drinks often. Half of the beer I've given away has been to friends around town.

Once I find a recipe I love I plan to brew it often in 10 gallon batches and give it away. My local craft brewery said they're willing to help me out and sample my stuff and give me advice. Then my second fermentation chamber would be for experimentation. I have no desire to keg 5-10 gallon batches when I'd be the only one that drinks it. No one really comes over here, especially during this pandemic. I feel as though I'm one of the very few people on here that still feels like bottling beer. I've seen one other, though I can't recall the username.

Eh... we'll see. I can't see $1,200 (~$800 for the CF10 conical and accessories, ~$225 discounted TC-100 chiller, and $200-$250 for a DIY glycol chiller) being worth it for bottling right now. Even though it'd be so sweet.

I only bottle and give probably 95% away to family, friends and clients. I just enjoy the process. Now that summer is here, I maybe will drink a beer before going to bed. Otherwise, I may only have 2-3 beers a week.

With that said, I have refined my processes and equipment over time. I only brew 10 gallon batches and currently own a CF10, SSB 20gal Brite Tank, four head counter pressure bottle filler, yeast brink, etc. I started cold crashing to lessen sediment forming in the bottom of the bottles . I bought a bright tank to start carbing in that while I started another fermentation in the CF10. I bought a four head counter pressure bottle filler because I wanted to save time bottling. If you total what I have paid on equipment, it would add up. The costs never seem to stop as currently I am looking at assembling equipment for when I am up in CO. BTW, I have no desire to keg as well.

So, I think the above suggestions other members posted may make sense. You really do not need all this fancy equipment to brew great tasting beer. I think you need to determine what you are trying to do and what your budget is. Maybe waiting for sales or used equipment might be a better alternative once you have decided what you are trying to do.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

I only bottle and give probably 95% away to family, friends and clients. I just enjoy the process. Now that summer is here, I maybe will drink a beer before going to bed. Otherwise, I may only have 2-3 beers a week.

With that said, I have refined my processes and equipment over time. I only brew 10 gallon batches and currently own a CF10, SSB 20gal Brite Tank, four head counter pressure bottle filler, yeast brink, etc. I started cold crashing to lessen sediment forming in the bottom of the bottles . I bought a bright tank to start carbing in that while I started another fermentation in the CF10. I bought a four head counter pressure bottle filler because I wanted to save time bottling. If you total what I have paid on equipment, it would add up. The costs never seem to stop as currently I am looking at assembling equipment for when I am up in CO. BTW, I have no desire to keg as well.

So, I think the above suggestions other members posted may make sense. You really do not need all this fancy equipment to brew great tasting beer. I think you need to determine what you are trying to do and what your budget is. Maybe waiting for sales or used equipment might be a better alternative once you have decided what you are trying to do.

Yea, I guess I'll just keep my setup as is. For me, drinking the beer is secondary to trying to perfect a craft I've come to really enjoy and share it. If I wanted to drink amazing beer I'd just go to the store and buy it (which I still do even though I have a decent amount of homebrew on hand, although I think my recent pale ale will be excellent so I won't have to buy for a bit).. This is different though. It's great to drink stuff you've made, but not if it lives up to the standards you have and want to improve upon. There's only so much I can improve by monitoring BIAB temps as close as I can then bottling it after using a plastic fermenter. I'm sure there are plenty of techniques people implement when doing BIAB then fermenting in a plastic bucket, their own style you know? But again, I feel as though this is my bottleneck. I continue on here trying to subtly improve, or I have to spend a chunk to take it to the next level. I'm definitely not saying I can't make fantastic beer with what I have, I have made fantastic beer, one batch, fantastic nonetheless. The desire to improve in any way I can remains.

I can spend any amount of money I have to try and make better beer, but possibly getting volunteer spot at the local brewery might beat out any amount I could spend. Might help in other ways as well. Too off rails for the thread. I'll let everyone know if I DIY a glycol chiller and snatch up a conical!

 

[Stand]

You want to make two 10 gallon batches at once, and you only bottle? *shiver*

 

[eric19312]

I only brew 10 gallon batches and currently own a CF10, SSB 20gal Brite Tank, four head counter pressure bottle filler, yeast brink, etc.

How are you using that brite tank with the CF10?

 

[KookyBrewsky]

You want to make two 10 gallon batches at once, and you only bottle? *shiver*

I've already done that in the equivalent of 5 gallon plastic fermenters. I have no problem with it. I can keep the beer piled high in small doses suitable for drinking over many months, sharing freely with friends, freeing up my fermenters and letting stouts/porters age properly.

however, the main benefits of the Spike fermenter I've fallen in love with seem to shine through kegging D:

is a DIY kegerator worth it? I've read online about keezers, many people claim if one can find used items, it'll be in the cheap range. However after reading a reddit post about them, I expect it to easily cost over $1,000 DIY because nothing is ever used in my area. Kegco kegerators are only $600-$800 and look pretty decent. all kegerators nearby that are used are posts that are over 1 year old with no responses.

 

[Stand]

I've already done that in the equivalent of 5 gallon plastic fermenters. I have no problem with it. I can keep the beer piled high in small doses suitable for drinking over many months, sharing freely with friends, freeing up my fermenters and letting stouts/porters age properly.

however, the main benefits of the Spike fermenter I've fallen in love with seem to shine through kegging D:

is a DIY kegerator worth it? I've read online about keezers, many people claim if one can find used items, it'll be in the cheap range. However after reading a reddit post about them, I expect it to easily cost over $1,000 DIY because nothing is ever used in my area. Kegco kegerators are only $600-$800 and look pretty decent. all kegerators nearby that are used are posts that are over 1 year old with no responses.

I will say this.

I keep thinking that I should bottle from fermenter off the sampling port. Carb caps prolly work out well for that.

To be clear . . . I am not going to do that. Bottling makes me want to break things.

 

[CodeSection]

How are you using that brite tank with the CF10?

After performing various trub/yeast dumps and crashing and dumping again, I perform a closed pressure transfer into the bright tank. From there, I carb in the bright tank and when ready, bottle from it. In the meantime, after I clean and sanitize my CF10, it is ready for another batch. It was cheaper to buy a bright tank than another CF10.

 

[Stand]

I been thinking about getting a torpedo keg to use like that, but I have exhausted the capacity of my garage.

Next move I need an oversized garage.

 

[eric19312]

After performing various trub/yeast dumps and crashing and dumping again, I perform a closed pressure transfer into the bright tank. From there, I carb in the bright tank and when ready, bottle from it. In the meantime, after I clean and sanitize my CF10, it is ready for another batch. It was cheaper to buy a bright tank than another CF10.

But why double size of your fermentor....that’s the part I don’t get.

 

[CodeSection]

But why double size of your fermentor....that’s the part I don’t get.

I bought the 20 gal BME since it uses TCs on all fittings, it has a larger 8" TC port on top and the neoprene jacket has volume markings on it. The 10 gal Brite Tank did not have any of these features. Plus, I bought it on sale.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

Well, just ordered a CF10 plus a couple of ingredients to make some more all-grain. Unfortunately, as much as I've been convinced I need to keg, I need to control temps first. I don't need to keg sub-par beer. Temp control with expandability from a DIY glycol chiller without need for a freezer, plus a sampling port, dump valve for working with yeast, etc. are by far worth it to me. TC-100 I'll be able to get new for $225. Overall, it's just something I expect myself to use basically constantly. Things I don't use constantly I don't really care about or... usually own. I try and get rid of stuff often if I don't need it. But if I use something constantly, I want it to be nice, feature full, and well built.

I plan on getting the keezer going when (hopefully) the pandemic calms down and there's even a single chest freezer available anywhere for a decent price. WebsaurantStore is the only place I've found any and they're all expensive, at least $1,000.

 

[CodeSection]

Well, just ordered a CF10 plus a couple of ingredients to make some more all-grain. Unfortunately, as much as I've been convinced I need to keg, I need to control temps first. I don't need to keg sub-par beer. Temp control with expandability from a DIY glycol chiller without need for a freezer, plus a sampling port, dump valve for working with yeast, etc. are by far worth it to me. TC-100 I'll be able to get new for $225. Overall, it's just something I expect myself to use basically constantly. Things I don't use constantly I don't really care about or... usually own. I try and get rid of stuff often if I don't need it. But if I use something constantly, I want it to be nice, feature full, and well built.

I plan on getting the keezer going when (hopefully) the pandemic calms down and there's even a single chest freezer available anywhere for a decent price. WebsaurantStore is the only place I've found any and they're all expensive, at least $1,000.

You won't be disappointed with the CF10. Hopefully, you bought the various other items like racking arm, etc.

FWIW, I find it so much easier to overbuild my starters rather than yeast havesting from the CF10. For me it is less work and the yeast is clean.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

You won't be disappointed with the CF10. Hopefully, you bought the various other items like racking arm, etc.

FWIW, I find it so much easier to overbuild my starters rather than yeast havesting from the CF10. For me it is less work and the yeast is clean.

I have the Spike 20 gallon kettle so I have a few extras but I was surprised with how much the CF10 came with listed on the site, absolutely everything was an accessory purchase with the kettle. With the CF10 nearly everything is standard. But yes, I purchased the sight glass and racking arm for now, then the TC-100 from a different shop due to the discount plus backups like spare o-rings.

I have the homebrew book on yeast, regardless of what may be better, I'm still intrigued by it and want to learn as much as I can about it, which includes harvesting it. When I find that golden brew, I'll definitely be trying my hand at harvesting yeast over and over and producing the same batch as closely as I can!

There's a slim chance if any used freezers, or even new in stock ones, were available, I would've went the keezer/kegerator route, but I'm glad this happened already. The keezer will come in time. But for now, I plan to brew an oatmeal stout and age it in bottles for a few months.

 

[KookyBrewsky]

how are the handles on the conical? I've come to a logistics issue. My brew area is outback near a tiny house surrounded by yard. I need to transport the full fermenter to the front of the house so I can keep it in the garage...

casters won't work on the yard, I'm left with building something that would make transport easier or utilize the handles as a two-person job. Are the handles built to be used only when it's empty or are they explicitly built to withstand a full fermenter?

does anyone have any ideas I'm not seeing for transportation? I don't own a golf cart or anything.

 

[CodeSection]

how are the handles on the conical? I've come to a logistics issue. My brew area is outback near a tiny house surrounded by yard. I need to transport the full fermenter to the front of the house so I can keep it in the garage...

casters won't work on the yard, I'm left with building something that would make transport easier or utilize the handles as a two-person job. Are the handles built to be used only when it's empty or are they explicitly built to withstand a full fermenter?

does anyone have any ideas I'm not seeing for transportation? I don't own a golf cart or anything.

DO NOT USE THE HANDLES TO MOVE A FULL FERMENTER!!!! They are designed only to use when the fermenter is empty....

 

[KookyBrewsky]

DO NOT USE THE HANDLES TO MOVE A FULL FERMENTER!!!! They are designed only to use when the fermenter is empty....

hence why I asked

 

[CodeSection]

I realize that.....this may help https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0152/1071/files/Spike_Conical_Assembly.pdf?7064640000796699749

 

[KookyBrewsky]

I realize that.....this may help https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0152/1071/files/Spike_Conical_Assembly.pdf?7064640000796699749

sigh, time to problem solve the fine print! I can't imagine my family letting my build a Fermenter-Brick-Road in the yard that I skip along to alcoholic glory.

 

[CodeSection]

how are the handles on the conical? I've come to a logistics issue. My brew area is outback near a tiny house surrounded by yard. I need to transport the full fermenter to the front of the house so I can keep it in the garage...

casters won't work on the yard, I'm left with building something that would make transport easier or utilize the handles as a two-person job. Are the handles built to be used only when it's empty or are they explicitly built to withstand a full fermenter?

does anyone have any ideas I'm not seeing for transportation? I don't own a golf cart or anything.

Even if you installed pavers to make a path, I imagine the CF10 is still top heavy and therefore, you would have issues especially if the path was not level and was on an incline.

If you are wanting to end up in the garage, is it possible to brew in the garage? What are you using propane, natural gas or electric?

 

[KookyBrewsky]

Even if you installed pavers to make a path, I imagine the CF10 is still top heavy and therefore, you would have issues especially if the path was not level and was on an incline.

If you are wanting to end up in the garage, is it possible to brew in the garage? What are you using propane, natural gas or electric?

We have a pretty weird house. The "garage" is really a carpenter's station that I'm turning half of into my little fermentation area. The large portion of what used to be the entire garage consists of a spare room with storage and another room for laundry.

I'm using a Hellfire burner. My electric stovetop can barely boil 2.5 gallons. With the Hellfire it has to be uncovered and outside. That leaves me little room out front to where I need to get it, let alone the lack of a pulley to hold my BIAB over for most of the boil. The front of the garage is covered by an awning that leads immediately to a downward sloped driveway.