Spike Conical- observations and best practices

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I appreciate you posting your experiences and processes as it's nice to have a different perspective from another probrewer. Perhaps the difference between your processes and that of the other probrewer has to do with the size of their brewery.

I would like to clarify a couple of items you wrote.....



I really do not know where you read that I said probrewers disassembled their items. Apparently, you did not read where I read on probrewer.com how breweries use chemicals to CIP as seen in my quote below.



In the end, you answered my question of "why not...", but in doing so, you wrote statements that I supposedly wrote which simply were not true. In the end, we both said breweries CIP. So again, I do not understand why you made those statements which I did not write.

If you were trying to educate that on a homebrewing scale, CIP would be sufficient, you could have accomplished that without misstating my comments or commenting that I go and check it out on probrewer.com. If you were using the generic "you" or "you're", perhaps you could choose better words so as not to associate those statements when used to the person you are quoting.

Well perhaps im just misunderstanding what you were implying in your original response.

Because they appeared to imply standard CIP with cleaners readily available to homebrewers such as pbw and saniclean or star san would not be sufficienct and that everything in fact should be disassembled between each and every brew session unless a homebrewer has the caustic chemcials that (Some) breweries use... This was in direct response to sicktght311 asking why simple CIP wouldnt be sufficient.

We are only discussing what most homebrewers do which is without said special caustic chemicals which many smaller breweries like myself do not use due to costly shipping and in some cases special disposal requirements and even permits needed. PBW when used at the correct temp range with the correct pressure and when rinsed before an acid sanitzer is used such as saniclean or star san will in fact do well enough of a job to clean and sanitize a conical fermenter without complete disassembly on a component level each time. These cleaners available to the public and homebrewers are "real" effective cleaners. PBW does mean "powdered brewery wash"

I'm sure we all know this but much of the information on probrewer does not pertain to every size and type of setup. Theres more conversation for micro breweries as far as process than nano setups it seems to me. There are a lot of vendors as well as brewers endorsing certain products, sometimes so much that it makes a person question true intentions. I asked a lot of questions while speaking with different brewers and owners over the years and found there can be a pretty big variance in what many do and use as far as equipment.. In some cases this can be misleading or intimidating.
 
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Well perhaps im just misunderstanding what you were implying in your original response.

Because they appeared to imply standard CIP with cleaners readily available to homebrewers such as pbw and saniclean or star san would not be sufficienct and that everything in fact should be disassembled between each and every brew session unless a homebrewer has the caustic chemcials that (Some) breweries use... This was in direct response to sicktght311 asking why simple CIP wouldnt be sufficient.

We are only discussing what most homebrewers do which is without said special caustic chemicals which many smaller breweries like myself do not use due to costly shipping and in some cases special disposal requirements and even permits needed. PBW when used at the correct temp range with the correct pressure and when rinsed before an acid sanitzer is used such as saniclean or star san will in fact do well enough of a job to clean and sanitize a conical fermenter without complete disassembly on a component level each time. These cleaners available to the public and homebrewers are "real" effective cleaners. PBW does mean "powdered brewery wash"

I'm sure we all know this but much of the information on probrewer does not pertain to every size and type of setup. Theres more conversation for micro breweries as far as process than nano setups it seems to me. There are a lot of vendors as well as brewers endorsing certain products, sometimes so much that it makes a person question true intentions. I asked a lot of questions while speaking with different brewers and owners over the years and found there can be a pretty big variance in what many do and use as far as equipment.. In some cases this can be misleading or intimidating.

Your three recent posts are confusing. While I can’t control someone’s thinking, I can try to focus on what was written. To me, it appears you did not read what I wrote thoroughly. Then based on what you did read, you added or interpreted items that were not said or implied. Now, you suggest I implied something that I wrote as your excuse.

Let’s be clear, rather than reposting a third time what I wrote, just read it for what was written and try not to add anything else. To recap:

1. Your post #1396 said “if you think…your (sic) wrong” regarding probrewers CIP - It has already been established that I mentioned that probrewers CIP. So why post that? I’m not sure you could come to a conclusion of what my belief was. I don’t believe I was “wrong” for posting what I posted.

2. Your post #1396 said to see for myself that probrewers CIP and to go to probrewer.com This has been already established that I mention reading about how probrewers CIP on probrewer.com.

3. Your post #1396 states when commenting about caustic chemicals probrewers use that “We have been told we may eventually need them due to beerstone…” Seems like you are going full circle here. You have been told to use the caustic chemicals like other breweries but made the decision not to.

4. Then to my surprise your post #1398 states you disassemble home brewer items for cleaning as can be seen with “At home I removed my valves and cleaned the tc ports but then again at home I wasnt always using BF valves and I wasnt using cip either. many SSbrewtech users out there are using thier older conicals without disassembling the weldless fittings or ports for the coils in the lid each time and Ive read this from them on here numerous times..” What! You don’t CIP at your home brew setup! Then why the posts? Why the focus on my post? It sorta contradicts what you posted before.

5. Your post #1401 is even more confusing. You write “We are only discussing what most homebrewers do which is without said special caustic chemicals….” Yet, when I somehow mention what I read on probrewer and mention what I was told, that complicated things? Really? It is worth repeating that you do NOT CIP with your home brew setup so I have no idea why you are writing what you are writing.

6. Your post #1401 suggests not consider everything read on probrewer.com since it “does not pertain to every size and type of setup.” Yet in your post #1396, it suggests I go to probrewer.com when you wrote the last sentence “There are discussions on this topic on probrewer if you want to see for yourself.” So, on one hand I should go to probrewer.com and then on the other hand, sorta ignore their basic processes that are discussed since they are of different size, etc.

Look, I have no idea what motivated you to imply things and write things about my beliefs or things I never implied or wrote. I have no idea why on one hand you CIP using PBW and starsan at work (even though you have been recommended to use caustic chemicals), and then on the other hand with your home brew, you disassemble items for cleaning. From my point of view, you are talking out of both sides of your mouth. When I see that, I wonder why one would be arguing that way.

For whatever reason, you have put in way too much time focusing on and changing my statements. Based upon your pattern above, how about stopping this contradictory non-sense.
 
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Short & sweet, if any vessel used in the process of fermenting/ storing beer is constantly in use or stored under CO2, and the only exposure it gets to nasties are during the time it takes to spray out the gunk, and then get cleaned (one step, PBW, or other), and then sanitized (star san, or acid based other), and get put back in to use within an hour or so, kind of hard for any bacteria to get much of a foot in the door.
Nothing wrong with breaking the whole thing down now & then to get a good look at things, but if your equipment is in continual use, some common sense cleaning and a quick visual prior to sanitizing goes a long way.
I can't comment on cleaning methods for storing/ putting back in to use after storage methods, as I have yet to have to do so, but the basics are out there.
Cheers
 
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with everything being tc, not very much time at all to take it apart and give everything a soak. also considering how many fewer fittings there are on a homebrew conical compared to a pro fermenter, especially the big ones, there just isn't as much 'stuff' to touch.
The sight glasses and butterfly valves would also have to be disassembled otherwise your realistically only doing half the job since there are as many crevices/seals/seams if not more in there than in the fermenter.
 
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Your three recent posts are confusing. While I can’t control someone’s thinking, I can try to focus on what was written. To me, it appears you did not read what I wrote thoroughly. Then based on what you did read, you added or interpreted items that were not said or implied. Now, you suggest I implied something that I wrote as your excuse.

Let’s be clear, rather than reposting a third time what I wrote, just read it for what was written and try not to add anything else. To recap:

1. Your post #1396 said “if you think…your (sic) wrong” regarding probrewers CIP - It has already been established that I mentioned that probrewers CIP. So why post that? I’m not sure you could come to a conclusion of what my belief was. I don’t believe I was “wrong” for posting what I posted.

2. Your post #1396 said to see for myself that probrewers CIP and to go to probrewer.com This has been already established that I mention reading about how probrewers CIP on probrewer.com.

3. Your post #1396 states when commenting about caustic chemicals probrewers use that “We have been told we may eventually need them due to beerstone…” Seems like you are going full circle here. You have been told to use the caustic chemicals like other breweries but made the decision not to.

4. Then to my surprise your post #1398 states you disassemble home brewer items for cleaning as can be seen with “At home I removed my valves and cleaned the tc ports but then again at home I wasnt always using BF valves and I wasnt using cip either. many SSbrewtech users out there are using thier older conicals without disassembling the weldless fittings or ports for the coils in the lid each time and Ive read this from them on here numerous times..” What! You don’t CIP at your home brew setup! Then why the posts? Why the focus on my post? It sorta contradicts what you posted before.

5. Your post #1401 is even more confusing. You write “We are only discussing what most homebrewers do which is without said special caustic chemicals….” Yet, when I somehow mention what I read on probrewer and mention what I was told, that complicated things? Really? It is worth repeating that you do NOT CIP with your home brew setup so I have no idea why you are writing what you are writing.

6. Your post #1401 suggests not consider everything read on probrewer.com since it “does not pertain to every size and type of setup.” Yet in your post #1396, it suggests I go to probrewer.com when you wrote the last sentence “There are discussions on this topic on probrewer if you want to see for yourself.” So, on one hand I should go to probrewer.com and then on the other hand, sorta ignore their basic processes that are discussed since they are of different size, etc.

Look, I have no idea what motivated you to imply things and write things about my beliefs or things I never implied or wrote. I have no idea why on one hand you CIP using PBW and starsan at work (even though you have been recommended to use caustic chemicals), and then on the other hand with your home brew, you disassemble items for cleaning. From my point of view, you are talking out of both sides of your mouth. When I see that, I wonder why one would be arguing that way.

For whatever reason, you have put in way too much time focusing on and changing my statements. Based upon your pattern above, how about stopping this contradictory non-sense.
I dont know if this is an attempt to be funny with the analytical quotes and condescending mocking of my obviously lacking English grammer skills which you understand but keep throwing in my face anyway.
But as iancl put it the "short and sweet" version is I disassemble most things at home each time BECAUSE I dont CIP at home...

I do not need to disassemble everything between each brew session at work because I CIP using the same process as sicktght311 indicated he uses when he asked why that was not enough and you gave your response back to him stating
"My question back to you, why wouldn't you want to disassemble everything and thoroughly clean your fermenter? For me, in the end, it really isn't that time consuming."
...Well he explained why in his statement right? because he uses CIP. but then you went on to imply what hes doing isnt effective as I and im sure he understood it by stating breweries use caustics when doing CIP. I pointed out that statement is not not necessarily true as some do and some dont.



 
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Alrighty then.....on another note anyone use one of those screen/filter tc gaskets? My current batch was dry hopped. I've been sampling to see when I wanted to dump. Lots of hop debris in my samples. Thought maybe a screen at the sample port might be useful. I guess as long as it didn't clog.
 
Alrighty then.....on another note anyone use one of those screen/filter tc gaskets? My current batch was dry hopped. I've been sampling to see when I wanted to dump. Lots of hop debris in my samples. Thought maybe a screen at the sample port might be useful. I guess as long as it didn't clog.
It will very likely clog going by my experience of trying to filter hops and trub with such a small surface area.
 
The sight glasses and butterfly valves would also have to be disassembled otherwise your realistically only doing half the job since there are as many crevices/seals/seams if not more in there than in the fermenter.

i don't have a sight glass on my conical but if i did, i would probably break it down after each use. i'm just not as worried about sanitary issues on the butterfly valve, seems there would need to be a seal failure or something like that to cause some type of harborage. i submerge in pbw, work the valve open-close both ways a few times, rinse and call it good. cip shadows, the sample valve (screw type), racking arm, etc. have enough nooks and crannies/blind spots that i at a minimum would want to do a visual inspection and since i have it off, might as well clean it. is some of this overkill? sure, probably but it is a hobby after all and i would rather be putzing around with brew equipment than, say, lounging on the couch.
 
Alrighty then.....on another note anyone use one of those screen/filter tc gaskets? My current batch was dry hopped. I've been sampling to see when I wanted to dump. Lots of hop debris in my samples. Thought maybe a screen at the sample port might be useful. I guess as long as it didn't clog.

One of two scenarios will play out in this situation when you go sample your beer:

1 - There is no hop debris any more as it's all settled and you've just added one more part that needs cleaning and sanitizing but serves no purpose
2 - There is hop debris and the screen will catch it until it clogs, probably in a very short time, and you're up the proverbial river of excrement without a viable means of propulsion...

Any filter that is not centrifugal or tangential will eventually clog if there is any material that needs to be filtered out. You don't want to have to disassemble that in a fermenter that's full of beer.
 
You know what I just realized something that makes my post fairly stupid. The hole on the inside of the sample valve is tiny. For some reason I didn't even think about that.
 
Alrighty then.....on another note anyone use one of those screen/filter tc gaskets? My current batch was dry hopped. I've been sampling to see when I wanted to dump. Lots of hop debris in my samples. Thought maybe a screen at the sample port might be useful. I guess as long as it didn't clog.

I tried one of these. Clogged instantly even under pressure. Much swearing. Afterwards I bought two of these instead, and I'm quite happy: https://www.morebeer.com/products/stainless-steel-hop-tube-chain.html
 
Alrighty then.....on another note anyone use one of those screen/filter tc gaskets? My current batch was dry hopped. I've been sampling to see when I wanted to dump. Lots of hop debris in my samples. Thought maybe a screen at the sample port might be useful. I guess as long as it didn't clog.

I have one of those. They do clog pretty quickly if you don't draw clear beer. Even worse, it's the first draw that sucks in most of the stuff.

IMHO, the best way to get clear beer when you own a conical, is to use the features of the conical to dump the trub. You paid all this money for a conical, just overbuild your beer enough to be able to dump a few pints.
 
+1 on above

1) Overbuild the recipe
2) Dump often
3) Cold Crash
4) Rotate your racking arm all the way up, and pour off the first pint or two
5) Use inline filter after all of the above
 
Do you guys start with the racking arm down at pitch then move up to the 12 o'clock position after fermentation?
Thats my understanding of how they are intended to be used... or at least with the arm in a slight downward position so the yeast doesnt plug the tube if you concerned about getting every drop of clear beer you can turn it as you drain while watching through a site glass to ensure your not sucking up yeast.
 
Thats my understanding of how they are intended to be used... or at least with the arm in a slight downward position so the yeast doesnt plug the tube if you concerned about getting every drop of clear beer you can turn it as you drain while watching through a site glass to ensure your not sucking up yeast.

+1. This is what i do. I set it to the down position during fermentation, then rotate up to start transfer. I dont have a sightglass, but i watch whats coming through the transfer tubing and if i see any air pockets i start to turn the racking arm down and then once i start seeing more sediment i back it off. Once i see bubbles or air pockets again i shut it off.
 
i keep mine in the down position all the time. i do a dump before cold crash and another a day into cold crash. the sight glass makes it easy to see when it is running clear, get the most clear beer out of the fementer. if i really want to get the most and i have a non-dry hopped beer, i'll dump the tiniest amount. sight glass is still 'full' but area above it is clear. if i got some dry hopped monster, i'll dump a bit more (make a larger batch to compensate). i do closed transfers and before hooking up to the keg post, i use a male-male ball lock adapter and dump the first runnings into a bucket, just to make sure there isn't a slug of yeast or hops or something like that in the racking arm.
 
I keep the arm in the down position all the time as with a dump valve you should have dumped all trub long before you start transfering anyway. The racking arm is just so you won't suck in any yeast that might have stuck to the fermenter walls and failed to slide all the way to the cone tip. If there is any yeast sticking to the walls it will probably start sliding down once the liquid level sinks past it and with the racking arm it will just slide past without getting sucked in with the flowing beer. Besides that I wouldn't risk loosening a clamp while the fermenter is fully pressurized.
 
I keep the arm in the down position all the time as with a dump valve you should have dumped all trub long before you start transfering anyway. The racking arm is just so you won't suck in any yeast that might have stuck to the fermenter walls and failed to slide all the way to the cone tip. If there is any yeast sticking to the walls it will probably start sliding down once the liquid level sinks past it and with the racking arm it will just slide past without getting sucked in with the flowing beer. Besides that I wouldn't risk loosening a clamp while the fermenter is fully pressurized.

when kegging my last brew, i was amazed how much stuff slid down into the sight glass as the liquid level in the conical dropped, way more than i had seen in previous batches. i had dumped more than i planned the day prior and the sight glass was clear when i started kegging. by the time the level dropped below the racking arm, the entire sight glass was filled with trub, yeast, etc. (beer was not dry hopped).
 
Unfortunately the only way to prevent that from happening is to have the inside of the fermenter either electro- or plasma-polished as a mechanical polish will not be enough to prevent yeast from sticking. The cost of that would be unfortunately prohibitive for most homebrewers, even if you were actually able to find a shop that would do it as a retrofit.
 
Unfortunately the only way to prevent that from happening is to have the inside of the fermenter either electro- or plasma-polished as a mechanical polish will not be enough to prevent yeast from sticking. The cost of that would be unfortunately prohibitive for most homebrewers, even if you were actually able to find a shop that would do it as a retrofit.

not a problem for me, one of the reasons i ended up getting the racking arm. before, i would dump the beer clear and fill righ from the racking port, would often see the occasional slug of 'stuff' in the fill line between the conical and the keg, wondered what the heck was going on. issue eliminated with racking arm.
 
Thats my understanding of how they are intended to be used... or at least with the arm in a slight downward position so the yeast doesnt plug the tube if you concerned about getting every drop of clear beer you can turn it as you drain while watching through a site glass to ensure your not sucking up yeast.

+1. I keep the racking arm in a slightly downward position all the time to keep yeast out once I started cold crashing and dumping the trub/yeast.

Before I started cold crashing, I would have the racking arm in a slight downward position and would rotate it up until I got clear beer flowing when transferring. I was following Spike's suggestion .... https://spikebrewing.freshdesk.com/...es/35000043191-positioning-of-the-racking-arm

As others have posted, with a regular dumping process, the trub should be well below the racking arm.
 
One caveat i found to keeping the racking arm down at all times is it will keep an air bubble in there. This also prevents the carb stone from being exposed to wort which kind of negates it's usefulness. I recommend orienting it up at least once before fermentation begins to allow the air bubble to escape and fill the arm with wort.
 
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Unfortunately the only way to prevent that from happening is to have the inside of the fermenter either electro- or plasma-polished as a mechanical polish will not be enough to prevent yeast from sticking. The cost of that would be unfortunately prohibitive for most homebrewers, even if you were actually able to find a shop that would do it as a retrofit.
Thats another advantage though for the polished conicals vs the brushed surface as I have both with my stout conical and off brand brushed as well as the ss brewtech ive used multiple times... The polished surface while not plasma polished grade does help with this as well as cleanup. Its my understanding that the spike fermenters do have a polished finish?

Most racking arms based upon my understanding are in fact designed so they can be rotated if wanted. I dont see the purpose of the orings otherwise myself but I could see how they would help either way depending on process.
I should be receiving mine soon with the new 3.5bbl unitanks which are on the way to me now and I am exited to upgrade from the plastic we've been using at the pub where the yeast sticks terrible.
 
I keep the arm in the down position all the time as with a dump valve you should have dumped all trub long before you start transfering anyway. The racking arm is just so you won't suck in any yeast that might have stuck to the fermenter walls and failed to slide all the way to the cone tip. If there is any yeast sticking to the walls it will probably start sliding down once the liquid level sinks past it and with the racking arm it will just slide past without getting sucked in with the flowing beer. Besides that I wouldn't risk loosening a clamp while the fermenter is fully pressurized.

I often turn the racking arm, even under pressure. I will always have at least 3-5 psi in the conical (e.g. you don't want to cold crash without this pressure!). And if I want to start carb'ing early, it may be higher. You don't want to drop pressure at racking time just to turn the arm, as this may break out CO2. (I also keep some back pressure on my keg during closed transfers to minimize foaming). If you apply a little keg lube to both sides of your o-ring, you should never have a problem turning the arm, at least I never have.
 
I often turn the racking arm, even under pressure. I will always have at least 3-5 psi in the conical (e.g. you don't want to cold crash without this pressure!). And if I want to start carb'ing early, it may be higher. You don't want to drop pressure at racking time just to turn the arm, as this may break out CO2. (I also keep some back pressure on my keg during closed transfers to minimize foaming). If you apply a little keg lube to both sides of your o-ring, you should never have a problem turning the arm, at least I never have.

I don't know who to give credit to, but another HBT member suggested this teflon gasket. I use it and it is much easier to turn the racking arm with it on as compared to the silicone gasket.

https://www.morebeer.com/products/triclamp-gasket-teflon-15.html
 
+1. This is what i do. I set it to the down position during fermentation, then rotate up to start transfer. I dont have a sightglass, but i watch whats coming through the transfer tubing and if i see any air pockets i start to turn the racking arm down and then once i start seeing more sediment i back it off. Once i see bubbles or air pockets again i shut it off.
I'm confused on why you're seeing air bubbles during the initial move of your beer...

One caveat i found to keeping the racking arm down at all times is it will keep an air bubble in there. This also prevents the carb stone from being exposed to wort which kind of negates it's usefulness. I recommend orienting it up at least once before fermentation begins to allow the air bubble to escape and fill the arm with wort.

So should filling the conical with the racking arm up and then turn down once yeast is pitched be sufficient?
 
I'm confused on why you're seeing air bubbles during the initial move of your beer...



So should filling the conical with the racking arm up and then turn down once yeast is pitched be sufficient?

No... if the carb stone is mounted on the racking arm you need to turn the arm up to carbonate. Stone only works if the stone is in contact with the beer. Running stone eigg RH h arm down just fills the unit up with gas until you have no stone touching the beer.
 
I'm confused on why you're seeing air bubbles during the initial move of your beer...



So should filling the conical with the racking arm up and then turn down once yeast is pitched be sufficient?


Not at the beginning of transfer. I watch the tubing and rotate once i get to the bottom and i see air pockets in the liquid transfer. Aka the racking arm is above the liquid line
 
I have a Bock currently fermenting and want to harvest the yeast for a future batch. I'm currently 4 days into fermentation and my tilt is showing a slow, but steady drop in gravity. When should I dump the trub to minimize loss of yeast? After hitting FG, but before crashing?
 
Have you guys noticed the whitish color film on the coil after you clean and dry it?

I've never had a whitish film on my coil (I presume you mean the temp control coil).

When I clean my fermenter, I pull the coil out and rinse it off in the sink using hot water. I do this first thing, usually, because otherwise you might get the gunk on there drying and becoming more difficult to remove.

When it's rinsed off I put it in a 5-gallon bucket of Star-San as a holding place while I clean everything else. I run hot PBW through a CIP ball to clean the fermenter and when it's running I replace the coil in the fermenter so it gets a good cleaning--despite my having rinsed it off.

Then it's a rinse job again, I put it in the bucket of star-san while rinsing off everything else.

No white film. What is your cleaning approach?
 
Once I keg I spray out the fermenter with hot water . I use a sponge to wipe away stubborn krausen line . I fill with very hot water about 1/4 way up toss in some pbw then fill about 1/2 way up and toss in more pbw then finish filling and add the last bit of pbw . The amount I use is for 5 gallon per the info on the bucket . I spray off the coil then wipe with sponge to get the stubborn stuff off . Once the coil is free of gunk I soak in the fermenter . I usually let the fermenter sit for an hour or so . I drain the hot pbw water through all the ports . Then I rinse with hot water . Then I pull the ports , valves off and soak in hot pbw water for about 30 min then rinse with hot water . Once I rinse the coil off with hot water it doesnt matter if I dry it or let it dry on it's own it gets a foggy look to it . I can take a wet cloth and wipe it and it disappears. Once it dries it's back. It's not a film that you can touch or feel.
 
Once I keg I spray out the fermenter with hot water . I use a sponge to wipe away stubborn krausen line . I fill with very hot water about 1/4 way up toss in some pbw then fill about 1/2 way up and toss in more pbw then finish filling and add the last bit of pbw . The amount I use is for 5 gallon per the info on the bucket . I spray off the coil then wipe with sponge to get the stubborn stuff off . Once the coil is free of gunk I soak in the fermenter . I usually let the fermenter sit for an hour or so . I drain the hot pbw water through all the ports . Then I rinse with hot water . Then I pull the ports , valves off and soak in hot pbw water for about 30 min then rinse with hot water . Once I rinse the coil off with hot water it doesnt matter if I dry it or let it dry on it's own it gets a foggy look to it . I can take a wet cloth and wipe it and it disappears. Once it dries it's back. It's not a film that you can touch or feel.

How hot is your "hot" water? I just cleaned my fermenter on Tuesday; I run hot water in and through the fermenter with a hose to warm it up, then put about 2.5 gallons of hot water in the fermenter, add a couple scoops of PBW, and go.

But my hot water is 140-145 degrees.

I used to use "hot" water but it was too hot to stick my hand in, but not all that hot. Maybe if your tap water isn't hot enough--and it depends on what you've set your water heater temp--you might just boil a gallon of water and add it.

I discovered the same thing with cleaning my kettle. Used to use about 125-degree water, and while it cleaned, it wasn't that magical of a cleaner. Bumped up the temp to 160 (using the kettle element), and WOWEE! The kettle and element just shine, and no film.
 
How hot is your "hot" water? I just cleaned my fermenter on Tuesday; I run hot water in and through the fermenter with a hose to warm it up, then put about 2.5 gallons of hot water in the fermenter, add a couple scoops of PBW, and go.

But my hot water is 140-145 degrees.

I used to use "hot" water but it was too hot to stick my hand in, but not all that hot. Maybe if your tap water isn't hot enough--and it depends on what you've set your water heater temp--you might just boil a gallon of water and add it.

I discovered the same thing with cleaning my kettle. Used to use about 125-degree water, and while it cleaned, it wasn't that magical of a cleaner. Bumped up the temp to 160 (using the kettle element), and WOWEE! The kettle and element just shine, and no film.

I dont know what the temp is . My heater is set to hot temp and I cant hold my hand in the hot water . It so hot that it produces steam though . My fermenter winds up nice and shiny but the coil gets that foggy look .
 
no white film here either. my routine:
  • remove bottom butterfly valve, attach two 90 degree 2" elbows in its place, vertical orientation
    • this is so i can set a 5 gal bucket on floor in front of bracing shelf, elbows empty into bucket (i have the leg extensions)
    • have to take the butterfly valve off, not enough vertical clearance to fit the elbows and get over edge of bucket (sight glass can stay on)
  • replace pressure manifold with cip ball, fill 5 gal pail with hot water (125 degree f, from tap)
  • set submersible sump pump in bucket, i have attachments to connect from pump outlet to cip ball
  • pump hot water through cip ball, drain into separate, empty 5 gal bucket. once-through cleaning to get most of the gunk out of there.
  • empty dirty bucket, refill with hot water, add pbw
  • place pump in bucket but this time, locate bucket so it drains back into itself
  • recir hot pbw solution for 20 minutes or so, go drink a beer or whatever.
  • empty dirty water and repeat initial step, once-through hot water for a rinse, empty into separate bucket
  • take off lid and all the fittings, inspect for anything the cip may have missed. 'shadow' on the coil is biggest culprit.
  • fittings are pretty clean from cip but i soak them all in hot pbw solution. use some of that solution to clean off cooling coil or anything else in conical, if necessary.
  • rinse fittings off with hot water, set out fittings to dry
  • spray starsan on conical interior, lid and coil
  • put lid back on, coil back in lid (no clamp), 90 degree blowoff fitting on 1.5" lid opening (no clamp)
starsan rinse is piece of mind, to neutralize any residual pbw. i soak all the fittings in starsan and respray the conical right before assembly/filling on next brew day.
 
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