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So are you guys raising the temp on the Mash PID 3 degrees higher to compensate for heat loss through all the hoses? thought I remember hearing something about that a long while ago.

I have my HLT PID set 2 to 3 deg higher than my intended Mash Tun temp to allow for heat loss of the hoses during the recirculation during the mash. Before I mash in it depend on the time for year and how cold or warm may garage is before I dough in. I have found for me for 5 to 10 gal batches during the summer I am about 5 deg warmer in the tun and during the winter more like 6 to 8 deg higher than my intended mash in temp.
 
I have my HLT PID set 2 to 3 deg higher than my intended Mash Tun temp to allow for heat loss of the hoses during the recirculation during the mash. Before I mash in it depend on the time for year and how cold or warm may garage is before I dough in. I have found for me for 5 to 10 gal batches during the summer I am about 5 deg warmer in the tun and during the winter more like 6 to 8 deg higher than my intended mash in temp.

you using a temp probe in the mash to compare it to the mash temp on the PID to get the differential?
 
you using a temp probe in the mash to compare it to the mash temp on the PID to get the differential?

I did the autotune when I got my panel and temps the probes read vers what i read with my thermal pen were really close. I have a temp probe in a T fitting off the the mash tun between it and the ball valve and go off that for mash temp.

EDIT: I hope I understand what you are asking and that makes sense.
 
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any of you guys incorporate a sight-glass into the system? Curious where you installed it. Commonsense says on the MT return port but possibly worried about adding weight up there. Was also thinking on the pump inlet/outlet??
 
On mine, I put a sight glass on the recirculation port on the top of the mash tun. I like to see the wort clear up over time. Definitely not needed, but makes for good photos haha. You can see it on the mash tun in the second pic. I have a 90 degree coming off of the MT and then the sight glass hooked up to that.

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that exactly how I had mine set up on my old system. any worries about it being 'front-heavy'? mine was certainly that way on my 15G gas fired. 20G electric arrives today!
 
that exactly how I had mine set up on my old system. any worries about it being 'front-heavy'? mine was certainly that way on my 15G gas fired. 20G electric arrives today!
Yeah it's definitely front heavy but you still have to pull pretty hard to get it to tip when it's empty. When it's full of 50# of grain, it ain't going anywhere.
 
I know Spike says to cut hoses in certain lengths and all but why not cut them even shorter to fit tighter once the system is set up? Eliminate extra hose travel??
 
Start a bit longer, then trim back once you see how much you need. If cut too tightly, you may wish you had a little more lagniappe for flexibility.
 
I might even just buy some extra quick-connects and hose so I can keep the MT and HLT ones as short as possible. I waste enough money on other needless ****, why stop now!
 
Been a while since someone posted in this thread which is crazy. Hopefully you guys haven’t given up on your spikes. does anyone use a blichmann sparge arm with their spike system? I have a 15 gallon system but only brew 6 gallon batches. Not sure if the lower mash volume would render the arm useless.
 
Been a while since someone posted in this thread which is crazy. Hopefully you guys haven’t given up on your spikes. does anyone use a blichmann sparge arm with their spike system? I have a 15 gallon system but only brew 6 gallon batches. Not sure if the lower mash volume would render the arm useless.
I have thought about getting one at one time just to make it easier during the sparge. But now since I have brewed on it so much I just use a piece of silicone hose coiled up on the mash bed, I do 5 & 10 gallon batches and use different lengths.

edit: they do make an extension are for the sparge arm too so that should work
 
I’ll have to look and see if anyone is selling a used one On the market. For now I’ll go another few batches to see if I can nail down a routine. Although I’m inly brewing every two months now that we have a 1 yr old.

as far as water to add to mash. do you account for the herms coil? BS tells me 7 gallons at 2qt/lb. that level drops as soon as I start circ through coil. Lately I’ve been adding back maybe a .25 gal to get back to the 7 gal mark but maybe I should just leave it? I don’t account for loss on the sparge since im sending that through the coils so I’m not sure if there’s any loss during mash and sparge. Let me know how you guys fill your mash...

BTW, I always fill my mash tun first and circ through coils before filling HLT to heat. This allows me to check for leaks.
 
For now I’ll go another few batches to see if I can nail down a routine.
You can do it, it took me some batches too but now I nail the flow rate pretty easily. I use Blichmann riptide pumps and have made marks on the flow control knobs so I know where to set it, works every time.

as far as water to add to mash. do you account for the herms coil?
Yes, according to Spike my herms coil holds 1/2 gallon of water but I fill mash tun while my pump is running and fill it to 1.5 qt per pound of grain per the marks in the MT. I also fill my mash tun and HLT at the same time. I do a non heated recir to make sure the volume doesn't change to insure I have no leaks from the herms coil. But I also check the herms to make sure it is seated before I fill my HLT.

hope this helps
 
You can do it, it took me some batches too but now I nail the flow rate pretty easily. I use Blichmann riptide pumps and have made marks on the flow control knobs so I know where to set it, works every time.


Yes, according to Spike my herms coil holds 1/2 gallon of water but I fill mash tun while my pump is running and fill it to 1.5 qt per pound of grain per the marks in the MT. I also fill my mash tun and HLT at the same time. I do a non heated recir to make sure the volume doesn't change to insure I have no leaks from the herms coil. But I also check the herms to make sure it is seated before I fill my HLT.

hope this helps
Is it the recoverable dead space? BS has the default as 0.32 gal for the 15 gal system. If that’s the case then I don’t need to top off my mash tun
 
Is it the recoverable dead space? BS has the default as 0.32 gal for the 15 gal system. If that’s the case then I don’t need to top off my mash tun

Yes it is recoverable, but it is in the coils and not in your mashtun. Here is how I do it at least.

I treat the entire volume of water, 1.5 qts per pound for grain plus what is in the coils. I don't top off my mashtun per se, i just start my pump to purge the coil of air and fill it with water. so if I was mashing 10lbs of grain I would fill the mashtun to 3.75 gallons of water after the coils have been purged and flowing.
 
You can do it, it took me some batches too but now I nail the flow rate pretty easily. I use Blichmann riptide pumps and have made marks on the flow control knobs so I know where to set it, works every time.


Yes, according to Spike my herms coil holds 1/2 gallon of water but I fill mash tun while my pump is running and fill it to 1.5 qt per pound of grain per the marks in the MT. I also fill my mash tun and HLT at the same time. I do a non heated recir to make sure the volume doesn't change to insure I have no leaks from the herms coil. But I also check the herms to make sure it is seated before I fill my HLT.

hope this helps
Do you know how many turns you set the flow control to for sparging? for instance, my flow control valve is at the closed position when the clip is at the bottom...half turn is pointing up
 
Do you know how many turns you set the flow control to for sparging? for instance, my flow control valve is at the closed position when the clip is at the bottom...half turn is pointing up

about 3/4 turn on the wort pump and 1/2 turn on the water pump during the sparge. also the ball valve on the return at top of the mash tun is maybe a 1/4 open for the sparge water. This is for Blichmann riptides of course.

EDIT: once I found the sweet spot i made marks with a sharpie marker.
 
Holly cannoli...1.045! with 10.75gal into BK (I checked three times with refrac) Added two pints of HLT water to BK and now at 1.043. Haha this system finally worked for me. now I need to figure how to not boil off too much. Est post boil should be 1.045 and this is a kolsch
 
Holly cannoli...1.045! with 10.75gal into BK (I checked three times with refrac) Added two pints of HLT water to BK and now at 1.043. Haha this system finally worked for me. now I need to figure how to not boil off too much. Est post boil should be 1.045 and this is a kolsch

With my 20 gal BK I get about 1.5 gal per hr boil off. If you have a 15G I am thinking 1 to 1.25 for a hour.

all I can tell you is that I love my system, I can predict my gravity reading with one point or so depending on batch size and grain bill. That is one thing I have down like a rock.
 
Honestly, I was a little down and thought about selling and downgrading. also because we’re moving to Boston in the near future. But this has re kindled the love And I’ll adjust accordingly. Thanks for the help Bohern.
 
Just picked up the 20G trio+, hoping to have it all set up soon. Great data in this thread. Now the joy of adjusting all the recipes to fit this and trying to build an equipment profile.
Did you ever nail down an equipment profile for your 3x20 Spike rig, and if so could you share it? Thx
 
So I've got the 30gal setup with ball valves, every so often I take my ball valves apart and clean them. This past time I found some mold in a couple spots of the valves for my boil kettle, maybe it had been longer between disassembling or maybe I just didn't have a good thorough cleaning last brew day. Anyhow I have now soaked in hot pbw and scrubbed good and got everything clean. Is there any further cleaning I should do before my next brew day?
 
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