Spike Complete System

[Bohern]

Thanks Bohern. I think that is a good idea. I typically target a little over 6 gallons to make sure I get 5 gallons in the corny keg.

Are you happy with your system? Did you get the double batch 50 amp option for using two elements at the same time?

YES, i am very happy with this system, i really like the repeatability and versatility of what i can do with it. I did do the double batch but i went direct to Ryan of Electric Brewing supply to get my board. I also bought Blichmann riptides and the table for the system from outside sources which help trim the cost.

 

[Bohern]

Thanks Bohern. I think that is a good idea. I typically target a little over 6 gallons to make sure I get 5 gallons in the corny keg.

Are you happy with your system? Did you get the double batch 50 amp option for using two elements at the same time?

If you want anything custom, beit port placement, an opening for a steam slayer now is the time to do it. This was the path I took and glad I did.

 

[Bohern]

That's not a bad idea, I don't see why not.

You could also do a larger sparge and a 1.5 hour boil

The 1.5 qts per worked like a charm for this big grain bill, actually exceeded my projected numbers by just a tad. For sure this beer will hit 9.5% barring anything unforeseen.

Cheers

 

[TheMadKing]

The 1.5 qts per worked like a charm for this big grain bill, actually exceeded my projected numbers by just a tad. For sure this beer will hit 9.5% barring anything unforeseen.

Cheers

Awesome!

Great call and I'll be doing that on my next big beer

 

[Labrat]

If you want anything custom, beit port placement, an opening for a steam slayer now is the time to do it. This was the path I took and glad I did.

I am now considering a 20 G HLT, 15 G MT and 20 G BK. What would be the downside of a larger HLT, besides having to heat more water to cover HERMs coils? Does anyone know if there are specs for the different size HLTs? I am curious about the relative position of the HERMs coil in the 20 G vs the 15 G.

 

[Bohern]

I am now considering a 20 G HLT, 15 G MT and 20 G BK. What would be the downside of a larger HLT, besides having to heat more water to cover HERMs coils? Does anyone know if there are specs for the different size HLTs? I am curious about the relative position of the HERMs coil in the 20 G vs the 15 G.

I am not really sure what the benefit of a 20 gal HLT would be. When I do a 5G or 10G batch with my 15G HLT I always have plenty of water left over.

The only downside would be the extra cost and time to heat, I don't really see a benefit. But maybe I am not aware of what the reason would be to why you feel it is needed.

 

[Labrat]

Thanks for the information on having a significant amount of water remaining in the 15 gallon HLT.

In looking at the drawings on the Spike site it seems like there is not much of a difference with minimum volumes between the 20 G (6-15 gallon batches) and the 15 G (5-10 gallon batches) and the 20 G kettles give the most flexibility on the high side. lately, I have also considered purchasing the complete 20 G system and then also purchasing a 10 G MT for 6 gallon batches. This would take care of my concerns with having too thin of a grain bed in the 20 gallon kettle and the 20 G HLT and 20 G BK should not have much of a draw back for 6 gallon batches. Considering the overall expense of the system another ~$300 seems to cover you for 6 and 12 gallon batches efficiency-wise.

I have been emailing Spike some for quotes and today they indicated that they only sell the Spike control panel with the entire system. I was going to skip the Chuggers and get a couple of Riptides. The Riptide reviews make it seem like the way to go.

 

[Bohern]

Thanks for the information on having a significant amount of water remaining in the 15 gallon HLT.

In looking at the drawings on the Spike site it seems like there is not much of a difference with minimum volumes between the 20 G (6-15 gallon batches) and the 15 G (5-10 gallon batches) and the 20 G kettles give the most flexibility on the high side. lately, I have also considered purchasing the complete 20 G system and then also purchasing a 10 G MT for 6 gallon batches. This would take care of my concerns with having too thin of a grain bed in the 20 gallon kettle and the 20 G HLT and 20 G BK should not have much of a draw back for 6 gallon batches. Considering the overall expense of the system another ~$300 seems to cover you for 6 and 12 gallon batches efficiency-wise.

I have been emailing Spike some for quotes and today they indicated that they only sell the Spike control panel with the entire system. I was going to skip the Chuggers and get a couple of Riptides. The Riptide reviews make it seem like the way to go.

1st - you can buy the exact same control panel from Electric Brewing Supply, you can save a few dollars going direct.

2nd - If you were to buy a 20G system with the plans to do a 5G batches I feel you may fight channeling in the Mash Tun due to the grain bed being so thin. So you are on track with your thoughts

My two cents is a 20G BK and 15G MT and HLT gives you the best of both worlds with the least of amount of cons.

 

[Labrat]

1st - you can buy the exact same control panel from Electric Brewing Supply, you can save a few dollars going direct.

2nd - If you were to buy a 20G system with the plans to do a 5G batches I feel you may fight channeling in the Mash Tun due to the grain bed being so thin. So you are on track with your thoughts

My two cents is a 20G BK and 15G MT and HLT gives you the best of both worlds with the least of amount of cons.

I visited the electric brewing supply site and it looks like Spike is selling an EBSP200, $1550, with their system. Now I am curious about why the electric brewing supply's unit is cheaper than the also well respected Electric Brewery panel, $2295. Are the timers that much more expensive? I need to do some more research on control panels.

 

[GParkins]

I visited the electric brewing supply site and it looks like Spike is selling an EBSP200, $1550, with their system. Now I am curious about why the electric brewing supply's unit is cheaper than the also well respected Electric Brewery panel, $2295. Are the timers that much more expensive? I need to do some more research on control panels.

You might also consider taking a look at the UniFlex from BruControl...It's about $1300 all in, and does a fair bit more.

 

[Labrat]

You might also consider taking a look at the UniFlex from BruControl...It's about $1300 all in, and does a fair bit more.

I watched the video and it seems like a much more modern alternative. Are a lot of forum members using the Uniflex? Is the software robust.

I will look into this more as an option.

 

[GParkins]

Is the software robust.

I have been using the software for over two years. Works great, and the support is top shelf.

 

[Labrat]

Thanks all.

My ideal process is

When done with sparge, transfer all liquid out / dump. Scoop out all grain for compost, suck out final bit with shopvac. Remove TC clamp and output to remove false bottom / suck remaining grain under false bottom. Clean false bottom in sink. put clamp and valve back in, run a CIP cycle with CIP ball through lid. Rinse cycle, dry up remaining water after rinse cycle is done, put back together.

The BK is pretty easy, i suck up the whirlpool cone with the shopvac, rinse it out with hot water, then do same CIP cycle as MLT (just move the lid). I use the wort pump to do the CIP cycle on MT and run it through the chiller so it cleans those as well at the same time.

Don't worry @itsnotrequired ... i blow out the HERMS coil with my mouth too I want as little water as possible sitting in there.

I don't have a utility sink, and I brew in a space detached from my house, so trying to keep everything as contained as possible

Still finalizing everything so excuse some of the random tools around... here is my setup

View attachment 685279

Flyerwire,
Great looking setup. Can you confirm that the Spike system is using Chugger pumps? If so, what is the noise level?

 

[Bohern]

I visited the electric brewing supply site and it looks like Spike is selling an EBSP200, $1550, with their system. Now I am curious about why the electric brewing supply's unit is cheaper than the also well respected Electric Brewery panel, $2295. Are the timers that much more expensive? I need to do some more research on control panels.

I know that "The electric brewery" panels have a few more bells and whistles so that might be the difference in cost. I just decided to go the other route due to cost and it was the same panel spike used.

 

[flyerwire]

Flyerwire,
Great looking setup. Can you confirm that the Spike system is using Chugger pumps? If so, what is the noise level?

yeah, they are the chuggers and to me they are pretty quiet. I am outside though and have a glycol chiller in the same room and an exhaust fan running while brewing. I have a hard time hearing the pumps when the exhaust fan is running.

I’ve gotten a few more brews under my belt and really like the system. I’m hitting mid-80s on efficiency but not going as high on my water/grain ratio as the mad king. Its been really good and i love the system. Cleaning in place has been the biggest challenge, but the biggest issue there is just the MT. I scoop it out, rinse with hot water, take the false bottom out, vaccum out the rest of the junk and then run a CIP through it for 15-20 minutes while boiling (i put a weldless TC on one of the lids to be able to run the CIP ball through). It works, just needs a quick wipe down with a rag before rinse and its all good.

I’ve been going a bit overboard on brewing lagers now that I have easy temp control and the ability to check fermentation status cleanly. Have a bunch of other beers lined up once I clear a fermenter and can start rotating on a 2ish week basis. I love brewing on it and have switched to Sanke kegging, so it’s been pretty easy to get rid of kegs that I can’t fit. I have a fridge that can hold about 4, I have a tap system that can hold 3 and then I have friends that can hold another 2-4, after that I have to give them away. Its easier to do this when its a sanke instead of trying to get them to switch out to corny connections.

 

[Labrat]

Thanks flyerwire. You must have some very happy friends.

What size sanke kegs are you using?

 

[flyerwire]

I’m kegging sixtels. Some of them have garage fridges so I’ve already been using them as overflow storage, so this is just paying them back!

 

[Labrat]

I just asked for a quote on the Spike + system, 30Amp, 15 G HLT, 15 G MT and 20 G BK. I want a TC port added low on the MT for an analog thermometer (just for my own enjoyment) and the inputs shifted to the right side on the HLT so that I can brew left to right (sink is on the right).

I will skip the table and wort chiller.

I like the Stout stainless CFC. Are users happy with it?

Thanks for all of the assistance!

 

[Bohern]

I just asked for a quote on the Spike + system, 30Amp, 15 G HLT, 15 G MT and 20 G BK. I want a TC port added low on the MT for an analog thermometer (just for my own enjoyment) and the inputs shifted to the right side on the HLT so that I can brew left to right (sink is on the right).

I will skip the table and wort chiller.

I like the Stout stainless CFC. Are users happy with it?

Thanks for all of the assistance!

My only advice that I share in addition to this is to look at the cost difference between the 30a and 50a panels, not that hard to add on now Vs later.

As far as chillers I wnt with the copper one but have always wondered if I would be better served, I know some in here have the SS one.

EDIT: but it sounds like you have it pretty much figured out.

 

[Labrat]

I already have 30 amp with a GFCI breaker above my brew table and I do not think I will ever do back to back batches. I have other was to heat cleaning water if needed.

I am hoping to spend less time working and more time leisure brewing this decade.

 

[Bohern]

Sounds good to me then, it is all about enjoyment for sure.

 

[Labrat]

Has anybody successfully used a TV mount for the 30 Amp panel? I saw some mount information in pages 6-7 but they were for the 50 Amp panel. the 50 amp panel seems quite a bit larger than the 30 Amp.

 

[Bohern]

Has anybody successfully used a TV mount for the 30 Amp panel? I saw some mount information in pages 6-7 but they were for the 50 Amp panel. the 50 amp panel seems quite a bit larger than the 30 Amp.

If you bought the Spike panel I'd email Ryan @ Electric Brewing Supply and he can for sure answer your question. He makes the panels for Spike so he can for sure steer you right. A link to email him is on their website and he is cool.

EDIT: I will say this and I own the 50a panel, I am 90% sure that the 50a and 30a panels ae the same size overall.

 

[Gozie Boy]

Has anybody successfully used a TV mount for the 30 Amp panel? I saw some mount information in pages 6-7 but they were for the 50 Amp panel. the 50 amp panel seems quite a bit larger than the 30 Amp.

Here is what I used for mine. It cantilevers/swivels a good bit away from the wall, and so I reinforced where the bolts would attach within the wall with some bracing before I tiled it. (The mounting holes did not line up conveniently with the studs in the wall). It's not fallen off yet, so I think I've passed the test. Does take some effort and planning, to be sure, but not a huge project.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SFSBHW4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Gozie Boy]

This is of course The Electric Brewery design enclosure, and it fits well within the parameters of the mount. It's pretty flexible, and so I imagine it would accommodate most controllers of this style, but you should check the Spike mounting holes and ensure they will indeed work with this mount.

 

[grassfeeder]

Just picked up the 20G trio+, hoping to have it all set up soon. Great data in this thread. Now the joy of adjusting all the recipes to fit this and trying to build an equipment profile.

 

[Gozie Boy]

Just picked up the 20G trio+, hoping to have it all set up soon. Great data in this thread. Now the joy of adjusting all the recipes to fit this and trying to build an equipment profile.

Would be great if you could share your equipment profile when you get it developed. Thx.

 

[Bohern]

Just picked up the 20G trio+, hoping to have it all set up soon. Great data in this thread. Now the joy of adjusting all the recipes to fit this and trying to build an equipment profile.

Congrats, keep us posted as you get it going.

 

[Brewfreedom]

I just asked for a quote on the Spike + system, 30Amp, 15 G HLT, 15 G MT and 20 G BK. I want a TC port added low on the MT for an analog thermometer (just for my own enjoyment) and the inputs shifted to the right side on the HLT so that I can brew left to right (sink is on the right).

I will skip the table and wort chiller.

I like the Stout stainless CFC. Are users happy with it?

Thanks for all of the assistance!

I run the stout chiller and so far Its been great. I need to get around to welding it to the table but for now I just lug it out and put it in a meat lug on the garage floor.

 

[grassfeeder]

So are you guys raising the temp on the Mash PID 3 degrees higher to compensate for heat loss through all the hoses? thought I remember hearing something about that a long while ago.