Speidel Fermenter Mod???

[bcrawfo2]

On another mod tangent - what brand and size tubing are you all using for the Spiedel spigot? I can get 3/8" ID on but it doesn't stay on well and I end up holding it the entire time I'm draining to the keg.


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I push a 1/2" silicone hose all the way up on the spigot. No part way, but all the way. Stays on for me


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[jwbeard]

3/8" silicon works well for me, at least so far... Rigged up one spigot with a permanent tube to a co2 line for pressure transfers, and have a line ready for transferring to a keg when the batch is done.

 

[Carlscan26]

Thanks! I'll try the 3/8" first because on the other end I have a beer side ball lock connector for transferring into the keg via the dip tube. The 3/8" vinyl I have now is a snug fit on the MFL threads - I had issues with the 3/8" fitting on a barb tightly enough then noticed the hose slid over the threads and that is working really well so far.


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[jwbeard]

You can also get 5/16" and even 3/8" barb-FFL/MFL fittings. I grabbed a few from MoreBeer and a few online sources, and use them in my system a lot. Makes for a leak-free system

 

[Eamon]

For those of you who have purchased the 60L Speidel, which uses a different spigot lid than the 30L in pfgonzo's method, you can still drill the thermowell port into the spigot lid without drilling it into the lid of the Speidel itself (potentially an expensive mistake), with a little creativity:

Sorry, I neglected to take pictures while I was doing this, and it's really hard to explain without those images... but:

I used a rubber mallet to remove the spout (orange) and disassemble the spigot assembly. I then drilled a hole 3/8" hole in the white plastic, and enlarged it until I could fit the grommet (size-matched with the thermowell before drilling) into the hole. Measure three times, drill once - it's a very precise fit, and if you drill too close to the port itself you could compromise the spigot.

I had to shave a little of the plastic on the upper-inside portion of the spout-holder (you can see a little shaved off in the image), so that I could push the thermowell into the grommet. Once it was secure in place, I put the spout back in and made sure it was secure.

Doesn't appear to have compromised the spigot's function at all, and now I have a thermowell I can use (and swap out for another spigot when I need to pressure-transfer the beer). The temperature probe (STC-1000) can be easily fitted behind the faucet, and it should work perfectly for my brew this weekend ::

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I was thinking of doing exactly what you are doing on a Speidel 30L fermenter. I was curious if you had any issues with your thermowell connection.

 

[jwbeard]

Sorry to resurrect this thread but I was thinking of doing exactly what you are doing on a Speidel 30L fermenter. I was curious if you had any issues with your thermowell connection.

None to speak of - it's worked quite well. The one thing I'd flag is that there isn't a ton of clearance behind the valve to insert your thermoprobe. I have an STC-1000, and there's enough clearance to angle the probe in. If you're using a different probe, check the clearance before you drill.

I do love that I can swap out caps as needed - I have one with the probe drill, one that has a CO2 line hooked up to do gas-assisted racking, and one with a camlock attachment that I use to rack wort at the end of a brew day.

 

[Frostbrewer]

Can you post pictures of those and describe the processes?

Are you using this on the screw port at the top?

i guess I'm confused how you are using it to do a co2 push.

 

[Helloworld]

Can you post pictures of those and describe the processes?

Are you using this on the screw port at the top?

i guess I'm confused how you are using it to do a co2 push.

I don't know about the poster you were referring to, but here is how I do CO2 transfers:

Remove airlock from Speidel and replace with stock cap with spigot (I have more than one)

Attached hose from CO2 regulator to spigot on top of the bucket

Attach a second hose to the other spigot on the bottom front of the bucket, then attach to this a ball lock beverage out quick disconnect and attach to the beverage out post of my keg.

I then turn on my regulator and push the beer out of the fermenter and directly to my keg. It takes very little PSI and goes directly into my keg without exposure to the atmosphere (or at least very little). I should probably try purging the keg with CO2 before transferring the beer next time.

 

[ssuhy]

OK, gave this project a whirl since I tried the Thermowell Carboy cap on my last batch and it failed to seal properly. They no longer sell the threaded neck caps BTW.

So, onto the specs (that worked for me):

1/2" drill bit
EWG-13 1/4"x1/2" Grommet

-Marked a starter hole/dent with an icepick into the Speidel lid.
-Drill a hole in the Speidel lid with the 1/2" drillbit
-Insert the EWG-13 Grommet into the 1/2" hole (it will fit 'ok', but not snug...that's ok. Once you insert the thermowell, it is VERY snug)
-Turn the lid upside down and rest the lid/grommet on a cutting board, next to the sink or a table edge so the large bubbler hole has a place to extend downward.
-Apply dishsoap or another safe lubricant to the 'flared' end of the thermowell, NOT the crimped end.
-At an angle, insert the thermowell into the grommet (that is now in the lid), keeping pressure on the lid against the cutting board (or else the grommett will be pushed through the 1/2" hole)
-Push thermowell through the grommet hole.
-BINGO, you are done with a very snug thermowell in your Speidel lid.

I figured out the right grommet size from a Variety pack I bought:
Cal-Hawk AZGA125 Rubber Grommet Assortment Set Electrical Gasket, 125 Piece

I've seen these packs as low as $4.50 at Sears.
http://www.sears.com/ctt-tools-inc-125-pc-rubber-grommet-assortment/p-SPM12955685019

Hope this helps.