Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)

[Malloy]

1. Gaps are being set between .035 to .045 as long as you get good circulation.

2. Mix rice hulls into crushed grains prior to adding it to the water.

Thanks a bunch, I'll have them do that the Next time. Rice hulls in grain mix before adding, Righto !

 

[Sprouthog]

can i ask everyone something i've been wondering for a while but have never got around to asking... i have never seen rice hulls anywhere in europe so i have never used them, but i can get oat hulls (/husks), which i use as you would rice hulls in a high wheat % mash. they are really big and floaty, and when i dough in they bob up to the surface no matter how well i mix them in with the grains. i'm sure they do a fine job of keeping the mash very loose in the top few cm of the malt tube during circulation, but the rest...?? are rice hulls similar or do they behave better in the BM??

If you add them separate from the crushed grains they tend to float. If you mix them with the crushed grains and add the combine mixture there are few if any floaters.

 

[fy0d0r]

I'm planning to do Hefeweizen with 51% wheat malt this weekend.
I'll set up the mill at 0.04" (1mm) gap and will add 45L water per 9KG (20lbs) malt plus about 3/4 lbs rice hulls (don't have any more) plus some 5.2 stabilizer to ensure proper PH.
Assuming adsorbtion rate of 1:1 (Liters per kilogramm) I should end up with 36L of pre-boil wort, will do some sparging depending on the actual gravity.

I've done my brew, all as described above, no geysers, got 70% efficiency

Not sure what to blame for low efficiency now, will probably try to get fresh base malt next time as mine was from 2012 crop.

 

[Sprouthog]

I've done my brew, all as described above, no geysers, got 70% efficiency

Not sure what to blame for low efficiency now, will probably try to get fresh base malt next time as mine was from 2012 crop.

Old malt can have some effect if not stored properly. Did you meet your OG? That's the important thing.

 

[pjk49202]

FWIW, when I try and pack a lot of grain in the 20 l tube for the 50 l model, I mash for 90 minutes to get 75% BHE. I did a 60 min once with a very full malt tube and my efficiency was around 65.

 

[dinnerstick]

If you add them separate from the crushed grains they tend to float. If you mix them with the crushed grains and add the combine mixture there are few if any floaters.

thanks, must be a difference between oat and rice hulls then.

 

[FLuKe]

Hi!

This is my first post here so sorry if it's a n00b question! I am thinking about getting the 20L Braumeister and I am still confused on how you are hooking it up? Are you using a converter, If so what size is is best? I saw one of the earlier post about a 5000 watt converter. Or are you upgrading the plug to a US dryer plug?

Thanks!

 

[leosardinha]

First of all I would like to thank all that has contributed over this 228 page thread.

I've know this thread for about 6 months and it definitely made me make my decision into buying this amazing system. And now I've finally read it since the start.

I have a direct fire 3 vessel Keg system in Brazil but as I brew alone, I was getting tired or lazy to wash a ton of things(Specially the heavy kegs) after a 8 hour brewday.

So I took advantage of being living temporally in Europe to buy it for about 30% the price I would pay in Brazil.

I've been also in contact with DeGarre for some tips!

I still have some long months until I go back home for good and will be finally able to brew on it, but this thread has helped me to control my anxiety hehe

I have a couple questions:

1) I bought the 50L version and I am planning to brew mostly with the shorter malt pipe, has anyone videos or pictures of their brews with the shorter malt pipe? I haven't found it anywhere...

2) What is the height between the top of the kettle to the heating rod on the 50L braumeister, the reason is I am planning to get a custom made hop spider from arbor fabricating.

thanks to all!

No one can help me?

 

[Sprouthog]

Hi!

This is my first post here so sorry if it's a n00b question! I am thinking about getting the 20L Braumeister and I am still confused on how you are hooking it up? Are you using a converter, If so what size is is best? I saw one of the earlier post about a 5000 watt converter. Or are you upgrading the plug to a US dryer plug?

Thanks!

Dryer outlet unless you have no other means of power. Post 2186 has some good info for upgrades and accessories.

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

Hi! This is my first post here so sorry if it's a n00b question! I am thinking about getting the 20L Braumeister and I am still confused on how you are hooking it up? Are you using a converter, If so what size is is best? I saw one of the earlier post about a 5000 watt converter. Or are you upgrading the plug to a US dryer plug? Thanks!

If you are willing to drop $2000 or more on this system...spend another $350 and hire an electrician to install a 220v outlet. That's what I did. .. Seems like a no-brainer to me. I really don't understand why people want to try and run this with a 110v adapter. You are dealing with an expensive, complex electronic device that will be circulatiing extremely hot/ boiling liquid....why risk electrocution, fire, damage to the electronics in the Braumeister, etc. just to try and save a couple hundred bucks? Just my 2 cents.

 

[FLuKe]

So I see everyone is upgrading to a dryer plug, but I do not have that option. I live in a rented townhouse and the dryer is upstairs, and I cannot add a new plug in the garage. So what do you recommend? Not getting one until I can get a dryer plug wired somewhere or can I use a converter?

 

[jpc]

So I see everyone is upgrading to a dryer plug, but I do not have that option. I live in a rented townhouse and the dryer is upstairs, and I cannot add a new plug in the garage. So what do you recommend? Not getting one until I can get a dryer plug wired somewhere or can I use a converter?

Buy or make yourself an extension cord for it... I don't recall the exact price, but I recall that a 50 foot one from Amazon was around $100.

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

So I see everyone is upgrading to a dryer plug, but I do not have that option. I live in a rented townhouse and the dryer is upstairs, and I cannot add a new plug in the garage. So what do you recommend? Not getting one until I can get a dryer plug wired somewhere or can I use a converter?

Have you considered talking to your landlord about adding a 220v outlet in the garage? If you are willing to pay for it...they may allow it.

I see using a 50ft extension cord on a 220v appliance filled with basically what could be considered boiling "sugar water" to be a major hazard, but perhaps that's just me not wanting to win a Darwin award.

Personally, if it were me, I'd be saving my money so I could opt out of being a renter...and own a place that I could use as I see fit. Hell....given that our government is still stupidly letting people buy houses via the FHA with only 3% down....the amount of money you would spend on a Braumeister along with whatever electrical option you chose could almost cover the down payment on a townhouse you would own....depending on where you live. Sorry if this is raining on your parade...I guess the father in me can't help but try and offer financial advice....like I have to do for my two daughters all the time.

 

[brautim]

1) I bought the 50L version and I am planning to brew mostly with the shorter malt pipe, has anyone videos or pictures of their brews with the shorter malt pipe? I haven't found it anywhere...

2) What is the height between the top of the kettle to the heating rod on the 50L braumeister, the reason is I am planning to get a custom made hop spider from arbor fabricating.

thanks to all!

Answer to question 2 is 4cm.

Answer to question 1 below:

 

[lylo]

4cm brautim or 40?

 

[Nesto]

Ok, so I tried my first high gravity recipe (trying to clone Lagunitas Doppelweizen). I added 2.2 kg of liquid malt extract with about 15 minutes to go in the boil, having warmed it up and stirred while adding. When I was cleaning the Braumeister pump after the brew, there was a pretty good amount of extract in the pump, it looked like enough to gum up the pump pretty good.

Has anyone encountered this? How did you deal with it?

 

[jpc]

I see using a 50ft extension cord on a 220v appliance filled with basically what could be considered boiling "sugar water" to be a major hazard, but perhaps that's just me not wanting to win a Darwin award.

That's curious... Seeing that the Braumeister has to be plugged in anyway, what difference does it make if the outlet is 5 feet away or 50 feet away? If you're really concerned, add a GFCI to it. That would be a good recommendation anyway.

 

[cpa4ny]

Ok, so I tried my first high gravity recipe (trying to clone Lagunitas Doppelweizen). I added 2.2 kg of liquid malt extract with about 15 minutes to go in the boil, having warmed it up and stirred while adding. When I was cleaning the Braumeister pump after the brew, there was a pretty good amount of extract in the pump, it looked like enough to gum up the pump pretty good.

Has anyone encountered this? How did you deal with it?

Nesto - I just stick the hose nozzle into the pump opening inside the BM - blows all the crap out from the other end. Repeat on the other hole. Have done > 20+ brews on my 20L BM, never had a problem with my pump. And I am very careful about putting the malt into the grain pipe - I usually use the flipped-over copper hood as a fail-proof grain funnel.

 

[DeGarre]

Ok, so I tried my first high gravity recipe (trying to clone Lagunitas Doppelweizen). I added 2.2 kg of liquid malt extract with about 15 minutes to go in the boil, having warmed it up and stirred while adding. When I was cleaning the Braumeister pump after the brew, there was a pretty good amount of extract in the pump, it looked like enough to gum up the pump pretty good.

Has anyone encountered this? How did you deal with it?

Yes, when I added treacle or sugar traight into the boil. Now I take out some wort and mix the sugar into it until totally dissolved, then add back to the boil.

 

[leosardinha]

Thanks Brautim!

Answer to question 2 is 4cm.

Answer to question 1 below:

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

That's curious... Seeing that the Braumeister has to be plugged in anyway, what difference does it make if the outlet is 5 feet away or 50 feet away? If you're really concerned, add a GFCI to it. That would be a good recommendation anyway.

Current draw can produce heat. This can present a fire hazard....especially of the gauge of the cord is not large enough, or if there are any defects in the protective shell around the cord. It is the current converted to heat by the resistance of the copper which is dangerous and can melt the wire and cause a fire if your cord is not sized properly. The longer the cord run, the higher the resistance will be....and thus the greater risk of overheating and starting a fire.

Additionally, a long extension cord can be a tripping hazard....a big problem when it is hooked up to a pot of boiling liquid IMHO. :rockin:

 

[Nesto]

Yes, when I added treacle or sugar traight into the boil. Now I take out some wort and mix the sugar into it until totally dissolved, then add back to the boil.

That what I was thinking... good to hear it works OK.

 

[Nesto]

Nesto - I just stick the hose nozzle into the pump opening inside the BM - blows all the crap out from the other end. Repeat on the other hole. Have done > 20+ brews on my 20L BM, never had a problem with my pump. And I am very careful about putting the malt into the grain pipe - I usually use the flipped-over copper hood as a fail-proof grain funnel.

It wasn't so much an issue with the cleaning - I actually open up the pump every time I clean the BM to wipe it out. That's easy enough. Was really wondering what people do to add liquid extract.

 

[jpc]

Current draw can produce heat. This can present a fire hazard....especially of the gauge of the cord is not large enough, or if there are any defects in the protective shell around the cord. It is the current converted to heat by the resistance of the copper which is dangerous and can melt the wire and cause a fire if your cord is not sized properly. The longer the cord run, the higher the resistance will be....and thus the greater risk of overheating and starting a fire.

Additionally, a long extension cord can be a tripping hazard....a big problem when it is hooked up to a pot of boiling liquid IMHO. :rockin:

I didn't suggest to use a $2.00 16# extension cord to carry 30 amps of current. Clearly the gauge of the wire required is determined by the current draw. This is precisely why the 240V 30 A extension cords cost a couple bucks a foot. Yours is a strawman argument.

And a long extension cord is no more a tripping hazard than anything else. You still have to plug in the unit somehow.

There is nothing inherently dangerous about using an extension cord. And if I were in a rental unit where I couldn't modify the electrical system, I wouldn't hesitate for a second to use one.

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

I didn't suggest to use a $2.00 16# extension cord to carry 30 amps of current. Clearly the gauge of the wire required is determined by the current draw. This is precisely why the 240V 30 A extension cords cost a couple bucks a foot. Yours is a strawman argument. And a long extension cord is no more a tripping hazard than anything else. You still have to plug in the unit somehow. There is nothing inherently dangerous about using an extension cord. And if I were in a rental unit where I couldn't modify the electrical system, I wouldn't hesitate for a second to use one.

What I said is not a "strawman argument", it is a statement of fact genius.

 

[zlorf]

I couldn't find an answer to this in the thread, so can someone please tell me the thickness of the steel on the 20L & 50L units?

304 stainless?

 

[jpc]

What I said is not a "strawman argument", it is a statement of fact genius.

OK. You win, Spanky.

I'm going to write my Congressman and ask him to push for a ban on extension cords because some people are too stupid to use them safely.

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

OK. You win, Spanky. I'm going to write my Congressman and ask him to push for a ban on extension cords because some people are too stupid to use them safely.

You should do that. People like you need to be protected from yourself.

 

[dinnerstick]

i wish there was a way to block pointless insults and bickering from the useful threads on HBT, so that they could carry on but i couldn't see them

 

[DrinknBuddy]

Just add that user to your ignore list

 

[jpc]

You should do that. People like you need to be protected from yourself.

You were the chicken-little spouting off about the dangers, Spanky.

 

[ShakaZuluXI]

You were the chicken-little spouting off about the dangers, Spanky.

Lets see...you posed a question "whats the difference if the outlet is 5 or 50 feet away?" And I provided a simple, fact based answer to your question. Then, because you are clearly some genius engineer, you felt the need to go off on me for simply providing a fact based anwer to the question you posed. You are nothing but a pompous jerk who always has to be "right" and have the last word. Have a nice day.

 

[tagz]

PM each other if you want to continue arguing. None of us are interested. Now back to the thread that is going to end up costing me two grand.

 

[NervousDad]

Are there replacement elements available for it and are they standard? Also, if I got the 50L could I then use the Shortened Mash Pipe to brew bigger beers over 1060?

 

[Toggels]

Good question, I don't think this has been covered in the forum. (replacement heating element).
You might have to check with the distributer..

I have the 20L and haven't had an issues brewing beers up to 1.074 ish... I haven't tried anything bigger as of yet.

 

[lylo]

I haven't run the numbers yet but I am planning to do a barley wine soon and thought that I will just cut my final volume back to about 2 1/2 gal and up the grain bill. Anything wrong with this idea?
Having been kegging for the last 3 years I shudder at the thought of bottling again but with all of the 1l bottles I have know it shouldn't be so bad. Or maaybe I'll find a 2 1/2 gal cornie under the tree.

 

[dinnerstick]

I haven't run the numbers yet but I am planning to do a barley wine soon and thought that I will just cut my final volume back to about 2 1/2 gal and up the grain bill. Anything wrong with this idea?

are you going to try to mash in a low volume? you need enough water for the mash and then end up at 9.5L after the boil. the minimum to circulate the mash depends on how much grain is in the tube, so let's say you need 16 liters of water to circulate? i'm not super confident on that number, just kind of thinking out loud. then don't sparge and collect 11 liters?, boil down to 9.5?,,, could work.... but i think you are limited by 1. minimum amount of water needed to circulate and 2. amount of grain you can cram in and still get good circulation. point 1 depends on point 2, and point 2 depends on the grain itself, the crush, and probably the mash chemistry.

 

[leosardinha]

So mine has just arrived, proud owner of Braumeister now :rockin:

 

[lylo]

are you going to try to mash in a low volume? you need enough water for the mash and then end up at 9.5L after the boil. the minimum to circulate the mash depends on how much grain is in the tube, so let's say you need 16 liters of water to circulate? i'm not super confident on that number, just kind of thinking out loud. then don't sparge and collect 11 liters?, boil down to 9.5?,,, could work.... but i think you are limited by 1. minimum amount of water needed to circulate and 2. amount of grain you can cram in and still get good circulation. point 1 depends on point 2, and point 2 depends on the grain itself, the crush, and probably the mash chemistry.

thanks dinnerstick, I had thought that I would just boil down to my final volume. I expect this may cause some flavour issues (camelization ?) but not sure.

 

[lylo]

Congrats leosardinha. Now the fun really starts!!