roomfullofmirrors
Member
DeGarre, just set your boil temp to 102 for the boil phase ... Section 4.5 and 4.6 in the manual. Just press the up arrow twice before starting the boil.
Speidel Braumeister (brewmaster)
- Thread starter FiveKaiBrewing
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk:
I've done that, and it still stays at 99 a lot of the time.
makomachine
Well-Known Member
I noticed when I boiled with mine this past weekend that if you set it to 102 in the program mode it never officially starts the boil off timer - apparently due to the fact it never hits temp. Is everyone just boiling in manual mode? Not a big deal to run a timer, just wondering if I'm missing something.
DeGarre,
I had the same problem with my 50 L unit. Even though I had my temp set to 102 and the heat jacket in place. I found that when I placed the lid on with a gap for the steam to escape the boil was much stronger. I watched it like a hawk in case of a boil over and had no problems. I started out with a large gap and closed it down watching closely. I ended up with two or three inch gap and a vigorous boil.
I had the same problem with my 50 L unit. Even though I had my temp set to 102 and the heat jacket in place. I found that when I placed the lid on with a gap for the steam to escape the boil was much stronger. I watched it like a hawk in case of a boil over and had no problems. I started out with a large gap and closed it down watching closely. I ended up with two or three inch gap and a vigorous boil.
My question is for those who have the copper hood. Do you get a vigorous boil?
makomachine
Well-Known Member
I always worry about the cabbage effect when I partially cover my kettle. Never had it, but I'm paranoid that way. Any issues with this?
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
hfk2
Well-Known Member
I use the auto mode throughout. I set the boil phase to 102C and the temp will rise to 100C, the timer starts and I get a mild rolling boil. In my first brews I would partially cover the pot with foil and this helped. I've always done a very vigorous rolling boil when using propane, so I built a 1500W heat stick which does the trick. I think the boil stage is the weak link with the BM. The 20L needs more power. I'm thinking about the copper hood, Chris says it definitely helps. Chris is that still your opinion. If anyone does get one, Thorstens site is much cheaper than Morebeer's, $238 vs $349.
makomachine
Well-Known Member
Highly recommend Thorsten vs Morebeer - beyond just the price issue which makes it a no brainer.
Chris - Have you used the copper top for adding grain as well? I saw on Thorsten's site that you can flip it over and use as a funnel so you don't get grain outside the malt pipe.
Wow...I have to say I didn't realize (or forgot) there was a "Boil" timer. 
I have always ran a separate timer set for the hop additions and IC.
Is it supposed to run a timer automatically?
My boil is satisfactory to me. I have to watch it when it first starts for a boil over. I doubt it would, but the foam gets close to the top. I'll try to video it next batch.
I have always ran a separate timer set for the hop additions and IC.
Is it supposed to run a timer automatically?
My boil is satisfactory to me. I have to watch it when it first starts for a boil over. I doubt it would, but the foam gets close to the top. I'll try to video it next batch.
If you have an iPad, iPhone or iPod touch you can download this little ditty at the app store for only 99 cents.
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/hop-timer/id425319840?mt=8
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/hop-timer/id425319840?mt=8
I used the cooper hood on my first session. It definitely seemed to help keep a rigorous boil - almost too rigorous. I spent the entire session standing over the pot with a spray bottle. That led me not use it on the next session and I haven't used it since. I get a decent rolling boil without it so I haven't been motivated to add it back.
My two concerns with it are DMS buildup and hop utilization. Not sure if either of these are real concerns. The opening is fairly small and any condensation ultimately makes it's way back into the boil so DMS may/may-not be an issue. The boil with the hood is very rigorous coating the sides of the kettle and inside of the hood with pellet hop material. Not sure if that would impact utilization but my thinking was if it's not rolling around in the kettle (stuck to the inside of the kettle/hood) then it's not fully contributing.
It does make and excellent (and expensive) funnel.
-Chris
My two concerns with it are DMS buildup and hop utilization. Not sure if either of these are real concerns. The opening is fairly small and any condensation ultimately makes it's way back into the boil so DMS may/may-not be an issue. The boil with the hood is very rigorous coating the sides of the kettle and inside of the hood with pellet hop material. Not sure if that would impact utilization but my thinking was if it's not rolling around in the kettle (stuck to the inside of the kettle/hood) then it's not fully contributing.
It does make and excellent (and expensive) funnel.
-Chris
makomachine
Well-Known Member
OK, I have some bad news. I received Robs impellers and they didn't solve my problem. Started a mash cycle with water only and the moment I hit mashing in the pump quit working with the pump light on. Target of 55C. Heating up fine, just no pump even though the light is on. I must have a bad controller box. Calling Thorston now.
I was afraid of that which is why I wanted to send those to you so you could find out sooner. Your others are probably already on the way but I would stand firm on them sending you a new computer box 2-3 day air ASAP.
makomachine
Well-Known Member
Thorston has another solution that will definitely meet my needs. He has a 20L unit that was used once for a demo locally and he's going to send me that complete unit via UPS and I'm going to return this one to him. I'd rather have a unit that proved itself once in new condition anyway and it will allow me to have it in a few days rather than 3 weeks. Apparently the replacement of the box is not as simple and Speidel wants the box to remain with the original unit. I'm fine with this solution as Thorston is picking up shipping costs and I'm getting a tested unit. Once again, Thorston has shown great customer service on this - highly satisfied in his response.
I'll post when I get the new unit and HOPEFULLY I'll be brewing next week.
Rob - thanks for sending the impellers as that sped up the process by a week at least!
SWEET! My man Thorsten! I always have liked him... 
I was reading the Braumeister manual online (I don't own one) and noticed that it specifies using either pellet or whole hops.
What keeps hops, trub, etc, out of the pump? What's the outlet tube look like? Anyone have a pic of this inside of a Braumeister?
Thanks!
Michael
What keeps hops, trub, etc, out of the pump? What's the outlet tube look like? Anyone have a pic of this inside of a Braumeister?
Thanks!
Michael
You're very welcome. No rush on mine coming back so just send them the cheapest method you have there.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but you haven't read anywhere close to this whole thread huh?
I'am sorry I do not undersand what you mean by the cabbage effect. Could covering the kettle cause off flavors?
makomachine
Well-Known Member
Yes, covering your kettle while boiling can cause a cooked cabbage taste to your beer or DMS, which is what Chris was talking to in his last post. Want a strong, open boil to drive off DMS. Pilsner malts are especially known for this, but it can occur with the others as well.
makomachine, hang in there, you will be well rewarded. Bummer that you've had a lemon and a rough start. In the end of the day, BM is a solid product, and my 3 brews didn't last long...4th to bottle on Tuesday and the latest 5th just went into FV on Thursday. Wife says I am brewing commercial quality beers, who am I to disagree...
This is what I will be bottling on Tuesday:
This is what I will be bottling on Tuesday:
makomachine
Well-Known Member
makomachine, hang in there, you will be well rewarded. Bummer that you've had a lemon and a rough start. In the end of the day, BM is a solid product, and my 3 brews didn't last long...4th to bottle on Tuesday and the latest 5th just went into FV on Thursday. Wife says I am brewing commercial quality beers, who am I to disagree...
This is what I will be bottling on Tuesday:
Lemons happen with every company - I havent let that change my opinion of the BM. My parents had to have their GPS replaced in their brand new Lexus due to it locking up on them the first week they owned it. They have been problem free ever since. QC gets you so far and occasionally one of these things is just going to happen. The key is how you are serviced after the sale and the quality of response. Speidel and Morebeer4U have been excellent in that regard - so I don't regret my purchase at this point. (Purchased from Morebeer.com, which I cant say the same thing about at this point) It is time for me to brew something with my investment however!!
Vey nice label - got me craving some hoppy goodness. Any recipe and BM process tips you can share on it?
"BM process tips you can share on it?"
One comes to mind. When you are done boiling and emptying into the FV and don't have that thingy inside so have to tip the BM over in order to empty it better, already from the beginning of the mash place the BM right on the edge of your stand/table so the control unit box doesn't take the weight.
One comes to mind. When you are done boiling and emptying into the FV and don't have that thingy inside so have to tip the BM over in order to empty it better, already from the beginning of the mash place the BM right on the edge of your stand/table so the control unit box doesn't take the weight.
contemplating on purchasing a BM unit. I am an extract brewer that wants to jump into all grain but i want the brewing process to be fun/easy and this may be the way to go. my only concern is with spending the 3 grand on a 50l system and still having the filter issue and the dip tube issue almost makes me want to wait to see if speidel will rectifiy the problems in a next gerneration of BM's.
I hope so too. I know more than one person from the company has seen this thread. It would be very nice.
Update: My BM 20l is at the Fedex sort facility here in Las Vegas! In see light at the end of the tunnel!
makomachine
Well-Known Member
Excellent! So when's the first brew session?
Sunday! I will deffinately do a dry run with the BM (walk through the steps) before brew day. Any suggestions for a BM newb?
makomachine
Well-Known Member
Do you have your cord solution determined? If not, that's the first step and I'd get what you need to do that if you haven't already. Once you unpack it, you are going to want to play - trust me!
Once you get that solved and you have power, I would run a test schedule with water a few inches above the coils without the malt pipe and a little PBW. This will allow the unit to hit temp quicker and let you know if everything is working ok. You can also clean the unit with the water - after cooling with some additional cool water when you are done testing. Also, read the manual. It's not extremely helpful, but it will guide you through the process.
Let us know how it goes!
Power is taken care of. I installed a spa box in my garage with GFI and 40' of extension cord so I can brew inside. I have to male plug ready so I can convert the BM's European plug. I do what you suggested and to a wet test. Any tips or tricks when brewing?
