Some questions about weldless spigot installation

[Lyikos]

I have recently acquired a used turkey fryer of craigslist on the cheap and would like to put a drain spigot on it. I plan to use it both as a mash tun and brewpot.

Are the materials used in weld-less designs able to tolerate the temperatures of boiling, such as silicone o-rings and teflon tape. Water only boils at 212 degress F but the rest of the aluminum pot is sitting on a hot propane flame and I have no idea how hot it might get, especially towards the bottom. Anyone have problems with these materials at high temperatures?

Lastly, I will be using a home depot brass nipple 1/2" and continuously threaded. What size of hole saw I need to be looking for? 3/4" might be a tab bit loose, while 5/8" might now fit. If anyone used the same part, what did you get?

 

[BargainFittings]

Silicone and PTFE plastic seals are designed for boiling temperatures. You need to shield your fittings from direct flame exhaust contact or they can pickup up enough heat to melt the plastic handle cover on your valve. If you boil out the water in the valve it can damage the seals. Teflon tape is PTFE plastic and is fine for this use.

A piece of metal directly under the kit would work to shield the valve. A tin can or piece of flashing are common items used to make a shield.

Alot depends on how you run your burner and the stand design on how much heat gets to the fittings.

1/2" NPT nipples are just a bit bigger than 13/16"
Look at our picture install instructions to get an idea how these go together
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=14

 

[Bobby_M]

Whatever you do, please avoid using mild steel or galvanized washers. It seems a lot people are too eager to source everything from Home Depot and decide one small bit of steel is going to be fine. It's not. Source the stainless.

 

[Lyikos]

Whatever you do, please avoid using mild steel or galvanized washers. It seems a lot people are too eager to source everything from Home Depot and decide one small bit of steel is going to be fine. It's not. Source the stainless.

I plan to use all brass/copper. What I couldn't find at HD was locknuts, not brass, not steel, nothing. I went to Ace and they had locknuts for electrical piping and figured I'd use those as a last resort. I don't know what they are made from, and I haven't checked Lowes yet. What a good place to get stainless or brass locknuts?

 

[LordUlrich]

The electrical lock nuts are galvanized, I got a brass locknut from menards.

 

[Lyikos]

The electrical lock nuts are galvanized, I got a brass locknut from menards.

What size fits on 1/2" pipe? I might have to order from them online, there aren't any stores in my area.

 

[TopherM]

As stated before, you should have just gone SS from Bargain Fittings and been done with it. Note that with Brass, Copper, or Galvanized steel you will need to oxidize these parts before using them, or they will bleed a bit of metal taste into your beer. Just boil them once for about 20 minutes and they get a good oxidation layer.

Next time, just get this set from Bargain Fittings. Much higher quality than what you are putting together for just about $10-15 more. I think I spent $36+$5 shipping for my complete 3 piece ball valve set with all the fittings:

KEG weldless bulkhead kit

Scroll down to the bottom of this linked page and you'll see a list of parts and assembly instructions so you can find everything you need. By the time you run around and find everything, though, you're going to wish you just had this kit shipped!

FYI, I've been told that most plumbing warehouses, like the kind that are in industrial parks that source commercial plumbers, have a decent selection of fittings, especially the bulkhead fittings that are hard to find in the big box hardware stores.

 

[Lyikos]

Next time, just get this set from Bargain Fittings. Much higher quality than what you are putting together for just about $10-15 more. I think I spent $36+$5 shipping for my complete 3 piece ball valve set with all the fittings:

KEG weldless bulkhead kit

I haven't got anything yet, but its still an option. But I already looked around that if I find a good lock nut, I can get this assembled for $20 tops. That's enough saving to give me an incentive.

 

[BargainFittings]

I haven't got anything yet, but its still an option. But I already looked around that if I find a good lock nut, I can get this assembled for $20 tops. That's enough saving to give me an incentive.

Our standard kit with a brass valve and 1/2" hose barb is $20.00 + $5.00 flat shipping.
KEG weldless bulkhead kit

The locknuts are a specialty item and I have never found them locally. They have a 1/2" NPS thread.

Electrical locknuts are zinc coated steel.

 

[TopherM]

I haven't got anything yet, but its still an option. But I already looked around that if I find a good lock nut, I can get this assembled for $20 tops. That's enough saving to give me an incentive.

Once you calculate your time, gas, and hastle factor you might save $5-10 for a mismatched set. The upgrade to Stainless Steel is worth more than that. In fact, you can do a complete brass set from Bargain Fittings for $19.50 + $5.00 shipping.

I just clicked for a few minutes then opened the box once it was delivered to my door about three days later.

There is a lengthy thread about every 3-4 months about sourcing weldless fittings from local stores, and I'm just telling you, 90% of the board agrees that it just isn't worth it.

But hey, if times are tough and you need to do all that legwork to save a few bucks, more power to ya!

 

[Bobby_M]

Even the huge industrial supply joints around here, that have just about every stainless fitting known to man, don't stock NPT locknuts. You may be able to find what you need at Grainger which has a location in your town.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Locknut-1VFN9?Pid=search

 

[Smashing]

I did just what you want to do. I used this...
http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=46&product_id=167
I put the soldered washer and the gasket on the inside and a threaded ball valve on the outside. I also used a SS washer on the outside but I'm not sure it's necessary. I've used it for many boils and several fry sessions with no issues.

 

[Lyikos]

I went to lowes and added everything up, and found that it really is easier to just order the kit, since it comes with steel and not much more expensive.