Soldering thermocouple wires

[Syncman]

K type thermocouple, worked fine for 3-4 brews, now giving weird readings. Seems the wires do not solder well and joints are dry. Is there an option for a panel mount that screws the wires down, not soldered, similar to the silver connector shown in the pic? WHY oh why is the RED wire the negative?

 

[dyqik]

You can't just solder thermocouple wires - they are made of different metals to each other, and require welding to join. Soldering them, even if it does stick, will prevent the thermocouple from giving accurate readings.

Buy a PT100 sensor to replace it, and never deal with thermocouples again.

 

[ClaudiusB]

K type thermocouple, worked fine for 3-4 brews, now giving weird readings. Seems the wires do not solder well and joints are dry. Is there an option for a panel mount that screws the wires down, not soldered

I use the panel mounts from Omega Engineering

You need also thermocouple extension wire for your k type, can't use standard wire.
Connectors must be for k type too .

 

[auburntsts]

You can use Fast-On crimp connectors instead of soldering. My aircraft engine uses K-type thermocouples for the cylinder head temp sensors and the leads are spliced into the sensor wiring harness using Fast-On ring terminals and a #4 screw.

 

[Syncman]

Those connectors from Omega are what I was looking for. So the lead from the panel plug to the Auber PID must be same wire? Just cut a few inches off the end of the themocouple lead? The lead is too long anyway.

 

[ClaudiusB]

So the lead from the panel plug to the Auber PID must be same wire?

Correct.
Thermocouple wire type k from the panel to your PID.

Just cut a few inches off the end of the themocouple lead? The lead is too long anyway.

Cutting off a few inches from the thermocouple is perfect.

 

[Syncman]

Many thanks, Was getting weird readings, and the joints seemed tight. My new connectors are on the way.