Soldering Stainless steel

[Huaco]

Where are you adjusting the flame on yours? I have a MAPP torch like you posted and didn't realize it was adjustable.

 

[jeepinjeepin]

Where are you adjusting the flame on yours? I have a MAPP torch like you posted and didn't realize it was adjustable.

It's a brass knob behind my thumb. Is yours a TS8000? I also have a TS4000 which looks nearly identical but doesn't have an adjustable flame. I can't remember if it is ok for MAPP though.

Here it is, Huaco.

 

[Huaco]

That was it... Your thumb was hiding the knob.
Mine is indeed not adjustable. And YES, I hope it is appropriate for MAPP, because the torch was sold as a package with a MAPP tank.

 

[ScubaSteve]

The ability to use mapp is nice, because you can braze with it....which is useful for repairing cast iron (it can be welded but it is difficult and the repairs are usually not too great).

 

[Huaco]

Yes, I looked this evening and mine is a TS4000. Must be suitable for MAPP because it works GREAT!
I didn't know you could braze with MAPP. Hmmm... I may have to look into some videos on this to pick up a few tips...

 

[jeepinjeepin]

Yes, I looked this evening and mine is a TS4000. Must be suitable for MAPP because it works GREAT!
I didn't know you could braze with MAPP. Hmmm... I may have to look into some videos on this to pick up a few tips...

Yup. I haven't done any recently, but I've patched rub throughs on copper tubing with brazing rod using MAPP. Solder would just fall right through.

 

[ScubaSteve]

If you're using the solder with high silver content...*technically* it is called silver brazing. I was referring to the standard silicon bronze that folks use. It would definitely be stronger than plumbing solder for brewing applications, but it is less aesthetic since it's bronze in color. Buying a torch that can use mapp just adds a lot more functionality to your shop than basic propane/butane. You never know when you might need it!

 

[jeepinjeepin]

If you're using the solder with high silver content...*technically* it is called silver brazing. I was referring to the standard silicon bronze that folks use. It would definitely be stronger than plumbing solder for brewing applications, but it is less aesthetic since it's bronze in color. Buying a torch that can use mapp just adds a lot more functionality to your shop than basic propane/butane. You never know when you might need it!

There is a temperature breakpoint. 800F? 1200F? The high silver stuff melts up in the 1400-1500F range if I'm thinking right. Low/no silver solder is down in the 400F range.

 

[chymera]

Does anyone have a list of parts I would need for building the dimple tool for a 2" tri clamp ferrule. I've read most of this thread but haven't seen one that does not use a custom fabricated piece instead of off the shelf parts. I was thinking this would work for the concentric reducer (although a bit expensive):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RWTYSM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

How thick would the screw need to be? 1/2" or 5/8" and how long?
could I use a 2" PVC coupler for the coupling?
What about for the washers?

Also would the long or short ferrule be a better part to solder in?

This is going in a Blichmann 20 gal for an electric element (need the 2" TC so I can use my 5500w ripple element)

 

[fafrd]

This is going in a Blichmann 20 gal for an electric element (need the 2" TC so I can use my 5500w ripple element)

You should be able to feed a 5500w ripple element into a 1-1/2" ferrule (they get fit into 1" openings into the water heaters they are designed for...)

-fafrd

 

[chymera]

Thought I read that someone else had trouble with a ripple element touching the side of the 1.5" TC once it was soldered in, I think it was a different thread. Regardless, I think I'd prefer the 2" because I would like to use this:
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guard-kit-and-adapters.html
to protect the wiring etc.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

Does anyone have a list of parts I would need for building the dimple tool for a 2" tri clamp ferrule. I've read most of this thread but haven't seen one that does not use a custom fabricated piece instead of off the shelf parts. I was thinking this would work for the concentric reducer (although a bit expensive):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RWTYSM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

How thick would the screw need to be? 1/2" or 5/8" and how long?
could I use a 2" PVC coupler for the coupling?
What about for the washers?

Also would the long or short ferrule be a better part to solder in?

This is going in a Blichmann 20 gal for an electric element (need the 2" TC so I can use my 5500w ripple element)

The reason that's so high is because of the transistion. Where you meaning to look at a 2" x 1-1/2"? Send me an email if you're looking for these. We have these for like $7.00. Keep in mind that 2" pipe size is bigger than a 2" ferrule.

 

[AllanMar]

I used a 2" TC ferrule for my elements, and I would defiantly recommend it over 1.5" if you plan to use the ripple element. While these will fit through a 1" NPS fitting, you will need the extra space due to the longer length it has to pass through (a 1" NPS coupler is shorter, thats why it fits). I used "medium ferrules" on the keg (7/8" long) and short ferrules (1/2" on my element adapter)

 

[fafrd]

Thought I read that someone else had trouble with a ripple element touching the side of the 1.5" TC once it was soldered in, I think it was a different thread. Regardless, I think I'd prefer the 2" because I would like to use this:
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guard-kit-and-adapters.html
to protect the wiring etc.

The one you found looks like it is lower cost, but there are alternatives for the same thing with 1.5" tubing:

http://www.brewershardware.com/TC15F10NPSCOV.html

And if you want to make your own, there is this (go all the way to the bottom): http://conical-fermenter.com/products/spares/

Anyway, with 2" you have nothing to worry about...

 

[fafrd]

I used a 2" TC ferrule for my elements, and I would defiantly recommend it over 1.5" if you plan to use the ripple element. While these will fit through a 1" NPS fitting, you will need the extra space due to the longer length it has to pass through (a 1" NPS coupler is shorter, thats why it fits). I used "medium ferrules" on the keg (7/8" long) and short ferrules (1/2" on my element adapter)

Helpful advice AllanMar, thanks.

-alan

 

[Bobby_M]

Plenty of people have demonstrated the process but here's mine:

 

[CalypsoCowboy]

Any tips for soldering a washer onto a hex nipple or compression fitting? There isn't as much mass there as with a pot and coupling.

-Josh

 

[BargainFittings]

Josh,

Heat the greater of the two masses. Hex nipple or compression fitting.

Heat around the fitting, keeping the heat even all around.

 

[wilserbrewer]

There isn't as much mass there as with a pot and coupling.

-Josh

This may make it easier to solder, just be careful not to overheat.

 

[Bobby_M]

The trick with a washer on a threaded fitting is to not get too crazy with the solder. You can be feeding it in from the top and not realize that you have $5 worth of solder beaded up on the fitting underneath.

 

[BargainFittings]

Little blurry but gives you an idea. One wrap of stay-brite solder.

[ame]http://youtu.be/F0ojjNj74Vc[/ame]

 

[CalypsoCowboy]

Thanks for the video that was helpful.

 

[SpartyParty]

When soldering a 2" SHORT ferrule into the kettle to receive the heating element is there enough room between the kettle wall and the ferrule for the clamp? Or would a MEDIUM ferrule be a better option? I was hoping to have as much of the element in the kettle as possible.

Thanks
Steve

 

[AllanMar]

When soldering a 2" SHORT ferrule into the kettle to receive the heating element is there enough room between the kettle wall and the ferrule for the clamp? Or would a MEDIUM ferrule be a better option? I was hoping to have as much of the element in the kettle as possible.

Thanks
Steve

Are you using keggles? It would depend on the curvature of your kettle. the 1/2" ferrules DO NOT provide enough clearance to turn the tri-clamp nut when against a flat surface, although if its up against a curved surface and the clamp is positioned the right way it is possible (but tight) with a keggle. I went with "medium" (7/8" i think?) on the keg, and short (1/2") on my element adapter. Keep in mind you'll loose a little space to your dimple if your soldering as well.

 

[LiquidFlame]

So, I was applying my flux with a small paint brush and didn't realize until I was done soldering that the paint brush my fiancee handed to me must of still have paint residue on it because the cup that I had the flux in had changed color. Am I screwed?

 

[alien]

If it was red lead undercoat I might be concerned. Otherwise I would just clean it up the best I could.

 

[LiquidFlame]

I finished silver soldering my welding spuds, and when I looked at the inside of the keg, I could see that there was a build up of the silver solder in the shape of a ball from it wicking/dripping while soldering. The ball of solder is attached to the welding spud and the side of the keg wall. Do I need to grind this down at all, or would it mainly just be for cosmetic purposes?

 

[Huaco]

If it is not obstructing the threads or passage of anything through the threaded I.D. of the spud, I would not worry about it.
If you were building a fermentor... that would be a different story. I say you are safe just to leave it there.

 

[wilserbrewer]

I finished silver soldering my welding spuds, and when I looked at the inside of the keg, I could see that there was a build up of the silver solder in the shape of a ball from it wicking/dripping while soldering. The ball of solder is attached to the welding spud and the side of the keg wall. Do I need to grind this down at all, or would it mainly just be for cosmetic purposes?

For a boil kettle it is really not needed as it will be sanitized during the boil and cleaning is not as critical. For a fermenter, it is much more of a requirement to have neat clean work.

 

[P-J]

I finished silver soldering my welding spuds, and when I looked at the inside of the keg, I could see that there was a build up of the silver solder in the shape of a ball from it wicking/dripping while soldering. The ball of solder is attached to the welding spud and the side of the keg wall. Do I need to grind this down at all, or would it mainly just be for cosmetic purposes?

One of the easy ways to fix it is to use your torch and gently heat the ball of solder directly until it just starts to soften. Then scrape away the bulk of it and add a little more heat to smooth it out. Either way it should not be an issue. The solder is an alloy of Silver and Tin.