Soldering Stainless steel

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Actually...I think it's a hell of an idea.....probably better than using galvanized metals. Easier to grind down too. Still cheap. When I did this, I used PVC for the "main coupler"...I was trying to pull a 1" fitting through the kettle wall and couplers that size were mega bucks for just a 1 time use. So, in short, you can use PVC as long as you're safe and wear eye/hand protection.
 
The solder I use contains a small amount of copper, so I doubt scraping brass across the surface would contaminate it. It might even help "tin" the surface.
 
Here's mine. The bottom drain was the first, and I didn't spread the flux wide enough so the solder beaded up around the fitting, I might sand it down smooth, but it doesn't bother me too much. The subsequent fittings turned out much nicer.

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Klyph, those look great....the keg tool is kind of a PITA but it is so worth it. My bottom drain looks the same....I didn't get the hang of it until my 2nd or 3rd fitting. It should be fine, but if I do it again, I'll put a loop of solder into the gap then just heat the whole joint. It makes things perfectly flat.
 
Bobby_M said:
You can likely just apply heat again and drop flux down into the solder. Is that Harris Staybrite?
Click to expand...
It was silv something 100, I'll check next time I'm in the shop.
ScubaSteve said:
Klyph, those look great....the keg tool is kind of a PITA but it is so worth it. My bottom drain looks the same....I didn't get the hang of it until my 2nd or 3rd fitting. It should be fine, but if I do it again, I'll put a loop of solder into the gap then just heat the whole joint. It makes things perfectly flat.
Click to expand...

You're not kidding, I started doing these over the weekend and I think this is the third weekend and I'm finally done. It was a LOT more work than I anticipated, but now that all 3 vessels are done, I'm glad I did it.

I didn't have any luck with the placing a loop of solder in the joint. In fact, (maybe my flux is contaminated) I couldn't even flux the joint without heating it until the solder started to melt, then apply just enough flux to get the solder flowing. If I fluxed it first, the flux would evaporate and then burn into a black coating before the solder would melt preventing a good solder joint. Very frustrating, but with trial and error I nailed down a decent way to get it done. I might try and get some fresh flux paste, mine has turned brown and I think this is affecting it's effectiveness.
 
It's very hard to get the piece hot enough without burning the flux especially on such a huge heat sink. I learned that applying indirect heat to the 6" diameter around the hole for about 3 minutes really helped. You slowly circle in closer and closer and by the time you hit the fitting, the solder is flowing. The flux burns a bit, but a quick squirt of fresh flux on the joint just before you take the heat away cleans it up.
 
No burning of flux when using cut muriatic acid as flux, SS solders easier than cleaned copper, flows just the same by capillary action once heated to the right temp for the solder to flow. Just don't overheat it, use a acid brush to apply more acid. Stop if overheated, sand the stainless bright and start over. This with soft sodering not silver soldering.
A propane torch or a natural gas torch requiring compressed air is what I use to even silver solder parts vs O/A if Tig is not wanted for the joint.
 
So what do you cut the muriatic acid with, and in what proportion? Stay-Clean is good stuff, but I did notice it'd burn off before I reached the solder's melting point. I had to reapply it but it was difficult to find something that wouldn't burn...q-tips would just burn and contaminate the area. I ended up filling a small eye-dropper with flux and it was enough to drop a controlled amount over the joint to kind of wash out the burnt flux. Tinning the fitting was also difficult in spite of the fact that I cleaned the hell out of it....:confused:
 
Can you use soldering if you have a direct fire system or can this only be used with electric systems? I was just wondering if it could withstand the output of heat the burners would produce? If so, I may go this route. Any good sources for the flux and solder?
 
If your kettles are hitting 430F during a normal brew day, they don't have any liquid in them. You can definitely use solder on any vessel as long as you don't light the fire when it's empty.
 
Usually a person will only dry fire a kettle once.

You will end up melting handles, o-rings and seals on the valves.

Welding supply stores carry what you need.
Online stores have the small kits with the flux and some silver solder.
 
Thanks Bobby. I may go this route; cheaper than paying a welder. Anyone know the cheapest spot for correct solder and flux?
 
The last batch mixed cut with 25% water added a short strip of zinc dissolved then applied with a acid brush. It boils off clean, the secret is to not overheat the stainless as the solder will just ball up with no capillary action. Sand bright and start over as once overheated your wasting your time. My LWS also has liquid SS flux in 2-4 oz bottles, keep it off anything you do not want destroyed clothing included.
 
I found the flux at a welding supply store where I get CO2 tanks filled. I will be using regular plumbing solder from HD/Lowes. I have not attempted the solder yet but these products were recommended by others that have had good luck.
 
There are a few different ways to go.

They have small project kits with about 4 feet of solder and a small squirt bottle of flux (maybe 1oz). It's enough for a few fittings.

Harris makes one for under $10.

http://cgi.ebay.com/HARRIS-STAY-BRI...251?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33626a1c03

There's also the ESAB Dynagrip 430 kit which the welding shop told me is "better" whatever that means. I paid $20 for that kit.

http://www.scottgrossstore.com/servlet/the-15674/ESAB-All-dsh-State-Dynagrip-430/Detail

Each joint obviously gets cheaper if you're willing to buy a full 1 pound roll of solder and a 16oz bottle of flux.
 
Thanks for the Scott Gross link, Bobby....I bought a Harris O/A set and the tips are hard to find. Wish I got a Victor knockoff......
 
BrewBeemer said:
Think ahead it's way cheaper in the long run when purchaing materials, not for one or a couple jobs but many unless your already 95 years old. JMO.
Click to expand...

Does liquid flux go bad? I wouldn't think but who knows. If you know exactly what products you need to buy in a larger quantity isn't bad. If you don't know exactly what you need and need to experiment is another thing.
 
Do you all recommend using the keg tool for making the dimple or is it ok to just solder into the drilled hole?
 
Definitely use the keg tool. The dimple is what locks the coupler in place and provides the strength. If you just solder it in, it will likely break off without too much force. You would also have to drill a very precise hole to keep the solder from just running through.
 
The dimple is all about a snug fit and surface area. You can create similar surface area by using a fitting like a hex nipple instead of a coupling. I think people put couplings in as a standard without really thinking about the alternatives.
 
Bobby_M said:
The dimple is all about a snug fit and surface area. You can create similar surface area by using a fitting like a hex nipple instead of a coupling. I think people put couplings in as a standard without really thinking about the alternatives.
Click to expand...

The problem with the alternatives like hex nipples, hex couplers, reducing bushings, etc. is that they all tend to be much more expensive than regular couplers/half couplers.
 
klyph said:
The problem with the alternatives like hex nipples, hex couplers, reducing bushings, etc. is that they all tend to be much more expensive than regular couplers/half couplers.
Click to expand...

Yeah, like 2 bucks more each. I'm just giving the guy alternatives if he doesn't want to build the tool. I wouldn't trust a close nipple stuck through a plain hole, but that's just my uneducated opinion. I haven't tried it. You could also solder a large washer over the hole on the outside to more than double the wall thickness.
 
When you clean the area for soldering, what do you use? Do you grind it down with an angle grinder or just clean the area? Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Bobby_M said:
Yeah, like 2 bucks more each. I'm just giving the guy alternatives if he doesn't want to build the tool. I wouldn't trust a close nipple stuck through a plain hole, but that's just my uneducated opinion. I haven't tried it. You could also solder a large washer over the hole on the outside to more than double the wall thickness.
Click to expand...

I've done a half coupler through a simple hole (before I saw the light)..it's strong, but I'd hate to have it fail. Plus, I love the professional look of the dimple so I may take it down and dimple the hole with a 3/4" full coupler. IME, half couplers are okay, and cheaper, but they limit your options....especially if you want to add a diptube inside and a valve on the outside.
 
Just bought a bunch of fittings on bargainfittings. I'll have to take a stab at soldering these one my three keggles when I get the time. Should be fun.
 
I'll make the tool. I agree with scubasteve on the professional look. The dimple can be made for 1/4 couplers correct? I'll need those for my bobby m sight glasses. By the way Bobby, excellent product!
 
nspaldi0 said:
I'll make the tool. I agree with scubasteve on the professional look. The dimple can be made for 1/4 couplers correct? I'll need those for my bobby m sight glasses. By the way Bobby, excellent product!
Click to expand...

you just need the correct size "tool" for the coupling your using.

so yes you can dimple a 1/4 hole.


-=Jason=-
 

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