Single Tier HERMS build

[drkwoods]

Any chance you have a wiring diagram for your panel? Thanks a lot for including so many links, makes things very easy for those of us planning similar builds.

My wiring diagram is hand drawn.. LOL.. But my nephew says he can sketch it up for me.. So Coming soon

 

[wncbrewer]

My wiring diagram is hand drawn.. LOL.. But my nephew says he can sketch it up for me.. So Coming soon

Awesome...thank you

 

[drkwoods]

I added the plate Chiller to the brew stand and painted it too.. I have a thread that describes how I made the Chiller mount.. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/my-plate-chiller-mount-idea-260003/

The Chiller is from Keg Cowboy http://kegcowboy.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=323

Also you'll notice I use Cam Lock QD's on all my hose connections.. The company is right down the street from me http://store.proflowdynamics.com/modules/store/-Couplings-for-Homebrewers-_C12074.cfm
Bargain Fittings also sells them www.bargainfittings.com

 

[drkwoods]

by the way my Burners use these orifices from Brewers Hardware http://www.brewershardware.com/Valve-and-LPG-Orifice-for-BURN10.html
I didnt want to go thru that whole drilling experiment with the orifices.

 

[cl330b]

Nice orifice!

 

[Suthrncomfrt1884]

Those are the same orifice's I used. They work great, plus they add another way to regulate the flame. Are you not installing any kind of bleeder valve for your pumps? I found that mine refuses to work without it. I'm using a chugger though.

 

[Lucky_Chicken]

nice pump covers!!

 

[drkwoods]

I've got what I call "burps"
They're in-line valves that have the cable connected to them to release inline air. I think maybe called a purge valve. I got them at McMaster Carr

 

[centex99]

Great build... hope you're up and brewing on this rig soon!

 

[drkwoods]

here's that Valve..http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/428/=g8corx
Its a brass ball valve with guage port. I had to buy the little 1/4"port valve..You pull the cable and release the air in the "uphill" pump housing. Here it is.. http://www.mcmaster.com/#drain-handle-stop-cocks/=g8csvd

Also I worked on my exhaust idea all weekend no pics yet and no boil test. but I can say all tests worked onm my exhaust idea, i just need to get some pics

 

[drkwoods]

ok So here's my exhaust idea and it seems to work real well.. I drew in some lines to help illustrate how it works. The Burner is completely surrounded by a heat shield. The Heat shield fits up into the skirt of the Keg bottom. There is no escape for the gases and heat except the one back corner. To promote it going up and out I made a Chimney to get a draft going and BINGO it works.. (blue arrows are the fresh air from below and red is the hot exhaust gases.

 

[Suthrncomfrt1884]

Can you give me some rough dimensions of that heat shield? I was designing mine to sit below my burner, so I was wondering why you decided to go up higher? Wouldn't this allow less air to reach the burner?

 

[wncbrewer]

Is your low pressure regulator at the tank or on the stand somewhere? Any trouble firing both burners at once?

 

[drkwoods]

Can you give me some rough dimensions of that heat shield? I was designing mine to sit below my burner, so I was wondering why you decided to go up higher? Wouldn't this allow less air to reach the burner?

the heat shields are 13.75" in Diameter and 6" tall. They are mounted 1.5" above the deck so that they fit into the inside skirt of the keg and actually touch the bottom of the keg. I did this for several reasons. 1. the keg is held firmly in place, cannot tip over and makes the whole stand sturdy, all the same time it is stealth and cannot be seen from above. 2. It contains the heat and traps it so that its more efficient with less heat loss. 3. It protects the brew stand from heating up. (My wires are all hidden inside the frame of the stand). 4. It protects the paint job. Ive seen one too many burnt brew stands. 5. it keeps flame from licking up the sides of the Vessels.

The burner gets its air from below it. The heat from the combustion rises and drags air from below the burner up into it.. (Stack effect)

The combustion does need exhaust to encourage laminar flow.. the "Chimney" idea creates greater stack effect because the hot air must rise up and out. thus drawing in more air from below it. (Which is 100% unobstructed)

Ok, so that the science I thought would apply.. Am I 100% right?? IDK..
But my testing has shown it to work very nice

 

[drkwoods]

Is your low pressure regulator at the tank or on the stand somewhere? Any trouble firing both burners at once?

My Dual stage reg is about 15" before the two Honeywells.. all connected via 1/2" black pipe.

No probs / both burners run identical, simultaneous or independently.

 

[drkwoods]

in the back right you can see it.

 

[mattd2]

1.5" square tubing and the top front/rear rail is 1.5 x 4" tubing...

Is that correct that the RHS is 1.5x4" looks more like 1.5x2"?
Just wondering because I'm looking at building a stand and don't want a beast of a thing the kills me if I ever tried to lift it and seeing that you notched out the top rails I'm reckoning 1" square (or even 3/4") might do fine as long as it is supported in the right places.
Very nice build by the way!

 

[drkwoods]

Is that correct that the RHS is 1.5x4" looks more like 1.5x2"?
Just wondering because I'm looking at building a stand and don't want a beast of a thing the kills me if I ever tried to lift it and seeing that you notched out the top rails I'm reckoning 1" square (or even 3/4") might do fine as long as it is supported in the right places.
Very nice build by the way!

Yea your right it's 2" not 4" (post corrected)
I think the 1.5 is fine, it's a good balance between strength and weight. It rolls around fully loaded with ease. With the kettles off I can flip it over by myself, prob weighs around 80-90#

Yea, 1" may work too. 1.5" is pretty strong so I'm sure 1"
Is solid enough too. But I'd try to see if anyone else has done it with 1" and ask what they think so far

 

[wncbrewer]

in the back right you can see it.
<img src="https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=48082"/>

Thanks, what setup do you have between the tank and gas manifold?

 

[drkwoods]

Thanks, what setup do you have between the tank and gas manifold?

I have a SS braided Propane hose from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=braided+propane+hose+21+inches&_sacat=0&_odkw=braided+propane+hose&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

And the Connector I have is the red one from Ebay too http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=propane+tank+connector+qcc+high+flow&_sacat=0&_odkw=propane+tank+connector&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

not sure if its ok to use this one, but its been fine so far.. It may send the regulator too much pressure, but isnt that what the reg is for?

BY the Way, After 10 brew days this SS Propane hose began leaking at the coupling. I contacted the Ebay supplier and he immed sent me a new one.. So be careful that the connection crimping is solid and bubble test it first.. I had a close call here..

 

[wncbrewer]

To my knowledge it should be fine. I agree, that is what your two stage regulator is for. Thanks for the pic and links, just wanted to see how folks were going about it. Great build and cheers...wnc

 

[moparx12]

Nice build! i am currently trying to figure out my panel mount and was wondering how sturdy yours is? I see that i can get one of those mounts for about $15 on ebay.

 

[cl330b]

Still diggin this build. Any action shots yet?

 

[drkwoods]

working on a tippy dump for the Mash right now.. Pics soon!

 

[drkwoods]

Nice build! i am currently trying to figure out my panel mount and was wondering how sturdy yours is? I see that i can get one of those mounts for about $15 on ebay.

That mount is reasonable $ and strong! I love it.. Im a little bummed I mounted it only 22" off the ground. I may re-fab that. If you tilt it alot it can loosen the friction screw, so I left the allen on it to adjust it if necessary.. but then again my control panel is pretty big / heavy

 

[motobrewer]

damn that's nice.

 

[donnieballgame]

That all looks very cool, what are you using for your HERMS, is there a coil in on of the keggles? I'm just starting a single tier build and I'm curious what other folks are doing.

 

[motobrewer]

what did the box tubing run?

 

[uber_franz]

...snip... (As far as Carmelizing or burning sugars in the drain piping (right on the flame) ) On the BK, I resolve this problem by whirlpooling during the entire boil. I have a 90` angle mounted 3/4 of the way up the keggle and return the wort to the BK making it spin down to the drain. My drain in the BK is set 1" above the bottom (dead middle pointing up) so the trub surrounds the drain but doesnt go in it.. I love it! ...snip...

AWESOME BUILD!!! I'm thinking about cruising down to the Chinese Embassy (HF) and grabbing one of those MIG welders.

Quick question for you re the snippet above: Do you have trouble with vapor lock / pump priming when you do this? I begin pumping in my whirlpool chiller with 15 minutes left in the boil (to sanitize the pump and hose) and I've struggled with pump priming. I have to turn the burner down to get it to prime and then when I turn the burner back up it starts vaporizing in the silicone hose. The issue appears to be the low pressure (suction) generated by the pump and the water/sugar mixture at its boiling point, I think the wort is just boiling within the plumbing. Just curious how you deal with this. Maybe your 'burp' valves help? I've been considering one of these, but I'm worried about it sticking/jamming with the wort...

Cheers!

 

[drkwoods]

That all looks very cool, what are you using for your HERMS, is there a coil in on of the keggles? I'm just starting a single tier build and I'm curious what other folks are doing.

I have 50 feet of Copper coil in the HLT.. Its an Old converted I/Chiller. I also recirculate the water in the HLT from Top to Bottom drain and getting it whilpooling pretty good with an angle fitting on the water in side. Prevents stratification.