Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Automated Rig

[rkjones1953]

The power supply you get really depends on how much current you need. I used 12V ball valves for the liquid side, but I used 120V valves for the gas solenoids because the 12V ones needed a lot of current. 12V solenoids need something like 800 mA, so for 3 valves, you need 2.4 amps. That's a lot of 12V current. Instead, use the 120V gas valves and trigger them with an SSR just like the pumps. They will only need a couple of milliamps to trigger. The 12V ball valves only use something like 40 mA to operate. A single 1 amp 12V power supply can run all the ball valves and relay board, with plenty of current to spare.

Thanks JonW. I spoke to the people at valves4projects. They swapped the 12V for the 120Volt.

 

[flounder21]

Jon:

How is your buddies (Luke I think) rig with BG14 burners working out. I plan to build a stand very similar using Natural Gas and Stainless in the next few weeks. Thank you for sharing your experience, I have enjoyed reading the thread.

 

[JonW]

Jon:

How is your buddies (Luke I think) rig with BG14 burners working out. I plan to build a stand very similar using Natural Gas and Stainless in the next few weeks. Thank you for sharing your experience, I have enjoyed reading the thread.

His is working good. We had to do some tweaks to get it to work well though. My initial design with the corner gussets works fine for my setup with jet burners, but cuts air flow with the BG14 ones (since they don't burn with the same velocity). We did an open back style on his.

 

[603shane]

We had to do some tweaks to get it to work well though. My initial design with the corner gussets works fine for my setup with jet burners, but cuts air flow with the BG14 ones (since they don't burn with the same velocity). We did an open back style on his.

Was this trial and error? Could you mount the BG's a little lower to avoid the air flow issues?

I'm still trying to figure out the best propane burner for 15g batches with your original stand design. Options are:
- 10 tip Jet
- 23 tip Jet
- BG14's
What do you think?

 

[day_trippr]

fwiw, it seems folks that start with a 23 tip burner inevitably end up plugging more than half of the jets when using them with ~15 gallon vessels. So I would rule those out straight away, unless you're doing barrel batches...

Cheers!

 

[luhrks]

For 20g or under the 10 jet will be plenty hot enough.

 

[Paramecium]

Do you entertain guests on brew days at all? I'd love to see this thing in person. My brew partner lives in HB off Garfield and Florida.

 

[JonW]

Was this trial and error? Could you mount the BG's a little lower to avoid the air flow issues?

I'm still trying to figure out the best propane burner for 15g batches with your original stand design. Options are:
- 10 tip Jet
- 23 tip Jet
- BG14's
What do you think?

Yes, a lot of trial and error. Trying different heights and open/closed burner shields mostly. It seems with the jet wok burners that you can get away with a lot because the velocity of the jet tips helps evacuate the spent gas from under the kettle. With the BG14's, you have so many tips in the burn area that the velocity coming out of the burner is nil. Because of this, you need a design that allows very good air flow for the spent fuel to exit the burn area quickly. If you can do that, then the BG14's work well.

I am personally getting ready to build a new rig that will be very similar to my current setup (but all polished SS) and I will be looking to use the BG14's from Brewers Hardware. I like how they run silent as opposed to my jet engines running all the time.

 

[JonW]

Do you entertain guests on brew days at all? I'd love to see this thing in person. My brew partner lives in HB off Garfield and Florida.

Yes I often have people over on brew days. I don't have my next one on the calendar yet, but I can let you know.

 

[OneHoppyGuy]

Was this trial and error? Could you mount the BG's a little lower to avoid the air flow issues?

I'm still trying to figure out the best propane burner for 15g batches with your original stand design. Options are:
- 10 tip Jet
- 23 tip Jet
- BG14's
What do you think?

Been there / done that, visit our website and/or Facebook page.

Unless you are running NG, your best choice is the BG-14 for 15 gallon batches. If you are automating your burners avoid using low pressure. We have a method that is for more effective and cost efficient and will glad share the information and parts list.

As for burner mounting we have solved that issue also.

 

[wpshadowens]

OneHoppyGuy, can you share how you use the Wyse thin client with the BCS? Are you using it in place of a PC or Laptop? If so, how well does it work? Which model are you using? Will it work with a touch screen monitor?
Thanks, Bill

 

[JonW]

OneHoppyGuy, can you share how you use the Wyse thin client with the BCS? Are you using it in place of a PC or Laptop? If so, how well does it work? Which model are you using? Will it work with a touch screen monitor?
Thanks, Bill

That's good info to share, but please do so in a location out side of my build thread.

 

[Paramecium]

Yes I often have people over on brew days. I don't have my next one on the calendar yet, but I can let you know.

That would be great. Would love to see that beast in action.

 

[603shane]

I am personally getting ready to build a new rig that will be very similar to my current setup (but all polished SS) and I will be looking to use the BG14's from Brewers Hardware. I like how they run silent as opposed to my jet engines running all the time.

Now that I'm at the burner part of the build, I'm slightly worried about blowing myself up. As you look to perfect your design, have you thought about going electric?

Even though I've already welded to your plans, purchased the ball valves and created your gas line, I'm starting to consider the electric option.

 

[603shane]

Been there / done that, visit our website and/or Facebook page.

Unless you are running NG, your best choice is the BG-14 for 15 gallon batches. If you are automating your burners avoid using low pressure. We have a method that is for more effective and cost efficient and will glad share the information and parts list.

Thanks. I'll check out FB and send you a PM in case I stick with LP route.

 

[JonW]

Now that I'm at the burner part of the build, I'm slightly worried about blowing myself up. As you look to perfect your design, have you thought about going electric?

Even though I've already welded to your plans, purchased the ball valves and created your gas line, I'm starting to consider the electric option.

Gas is actually pretty safe, especially natural gas. Here in SoCal, I'm already at tier 5 on our electric charges (highest tier), so any additional usage is at the highest per kw charge. The cost of natural gas is very low. If outside temperatures made any difference, I might consider electric, but for here, it just doesn't make sense.

 

[kosmokramer]

Well I'm spoiled and love brewing in climate controlled kitchen with my e-rig, Iif your worried about blowing ur self up with ng you need to realize that without proper precautions electricity can do alot more damage very quickly.

Take the proper precautions and and you will be fine whichever route you choose to go

 

[wpshadowens]

That's good info to share, but please do so in a location out side of my build thread.

Sorry Jon, didn't mean to hi-jack your thread. Conversation has been taken off-line. I do appreciate the info you have shared and have learned a lot from it, both here and on the ECC forum!
Bill

 

[flounder21]

I am personally getting ready to build a new rig that will be very similar to my current setup (but all polished SS) and I will be looking to use the BG14's from Brewers Hardware. I like how they run silent as opposed to my jet engines running all the time.

Jon:

On your new stand are you planning on using Natural Gas or LP? I'm planning on using NG and I hoped to use the BG14 burners. I've been searching the forum for NG recommendation for the best burner. I thought I would build a stand similar to your current stand or your buddy’s and either incorporate your idea of opening up the back of the stand or no gussets and maybe raising the keggles slightly off the stand for air / heat to escape. Atlanta’s weather is mild and I don’t have the space to brew inside with electricity. Thanks for the help.

 

[JonW]

Jon:

On your new stand are you planning on using Natural Gas or LP? I'm planning on using NG and I hoped to use the BG14 burners. I've been searching the forum for NG recommendation for the best burner. I thought I would build a stand similar to your current stand or your buddy’s and either incorporate your idea of opening up the back of the stand or no gussets and maybe raising the keggles slightly off the stand for air / heat to escape. Atlanta’s weather is mild and I don’t have the space to brew inside with electricity. Thanks for the help.

I'm going exactly the route you're thinking. Staying with NG and either an open back or raised kettles. I'll be mocking up a single kettle mini stand with mild steel to test multiple configurations with the BG14's. Once I've decided on the mounting method of the burners and how the kettles will sit, then I'll finalize my SS stand design.

Because of where I live in Huntington Beach and where I put my rig on brew day, I need really good burner wind shields. I will likely do the raised kettle method since an open back will cause wind issues.

It's kind of funny that some people complain about non-adjustability of the wok burners, but I found no issues with that. Those things rock in most every way. My only complaint is the noise they make. I usually have several people hanging out on brew day and watching a game or listening to music and I'd just like a quieter environment.... thus the BG14's.

 

[twalsh]

Do you use false bottoms in all three of your brew pots?

 

[JonW]

Do you use false bottoms in all three of your brew pots?

No, only the mash tun.

 

[twalsh]

Thanks. In the youtube video you have (page 7) it looked like there was a false bottom in the HLT, which seemed a bit excessive, but also made me wonder if you were using them in all 3.

Thanks again.

 

[JonW]

Thanks. In the youtube video you have (page 7) it looked like there was a false bottom in the HLT, which seemed a bit excessive, but also made me wonder if you were using them in all 3.

Thanks again.

Wow, you don't miss a thing! Yes, at that point in time I was using a false bottom in the HLT. Reason for it is that when I did a double brew day, I would take the MLT off the rig to clean it out and slide the HLT over in place of the MLT. I could then get it filling and heating while I cleaned the first MLT. Once cleaned, the MLT would go back in place of the HLT. It was just for allowing overlap of stuff to maximize time.

I no longer do that as I use the tippy dump now to quickly dump the MLT and I rinse it in place.

 

[The_Canmancan]

Jon, I've been reviewing also using HSIs on the burners. If the burner goes out, does it automatically relight?

 

[JonW]

Jon, I've been reviewing also using HSIs on the burners. If the burner goes out, does it automatically relight?

No, not with my setup. You can get automated gas valves with flame rectifiers that will sense and re-light. It's never been an issue for me and I don't run the system unattended.

 

[wncbrewer]

Jon, I've been reviewing also using HSIs on the burners. If the burner goes out, does it automatically relight?

I use the honeywell S8910U ignition model with my hsi's with flame rectification. It works really well

 

[rkjones1953]

3 BCS outputs to 3 120V SSR's for the gas valves. Jon, I see that you have the gas valves plugged into the outlets numbered 16,18,and 20. My 3 gas valves are 120v with two wires. I want to know how and if there might be a better way to get power the gas valves rather than using the outlets?

 

[JonW]

3 BCS outputs to 3 120V SSR's for the gas valves. Jon, I see that you have the gas valves plugged into the outlets numbered 16,18,and 20. My 3 gas valves are 120v with two wires. I want to know how and if there might be a better way to get power the gas valves rather than using the outlets?

You can just hardwire them. I only used outlets for convenience. I did have a brew day where a solenoid on a gas valve failed and in about 5 minutes I was able to swap a solenoid from a different valve and plug it into the proper outlet for continued operation.

 

[zzzzzzzzz]

For a newbie, this is just plain amazing! I'm not a welder or techie or electrician.... BUT have gotten so much logic from this detailed thread that my learning curve has been drastically reduced! Thanks, Jon