Single Tier, 3 Pump, BCS-462, Automated Rig

[wncbrewer]

What module are you using for the hsi? I am using the honeywell s8910u modules and time from call for heat to heat is about a minute. If you what you are using is faster I would love to hear more details.

 

[JonW]

What module are you using for the hsi? I am using the honeywell s8910u modules and time from call for heat to heat is about a minute. If you what you are using is faster I would love to hear more details.

I'm not using any gas module. I have solenoid valves that control the gas flow and the igniters wired directly to an SSR. The BCS controls firing the igniters and the burner. There's a setting in the BCS where you tell it how long to fire the igniter before opening your valve and how long to continue firing it after opening the valve. For attended brewing, this works just fine. If you want to do unattended operations, then you should stay with the honeywell valves that have the flame dectectors and safety shutoffs.

 

[wncbrewer]

I'm not using any gas module. I have solenoid valves that control the gas flow and the igniters wired directly to an SSR. The BCS controls firing the igniters and the burner. There's a setting in the BCS where you tell it how long to fire the igniter before opening your valve and how long to continue firing it after opening the valve. For attended brewing, this works just fine. If you want to do unattended operations, then you should stay with the honeywell valves that have the flame dectectors and safety shutoffs.

I see, you have in essence just replaced the bbq igniters with glowflies. I am not unhappy at all with my hsi modules, but think I see a bcs somewhere in my future. Thanks for the response jon, your build rocks and has been an inspiration to many including myself

 

[bduane]

Jon,

Just got through reading this whole thread, nice stand! I am preparing my brew stand build and will be using this as inspiration.

If you had to start all over, are there any changes, minor or major, that you would make? Dimensions, spacing, etc?

 

[JonW]

Jon,

Just got through reading this whole thread, nice stand! I am preparing my brew stand build and will be using this as inspiration.

If you had to start all over, are there any changes, minor or major, that you would make? Dimensions, spacing, etc?

If you read it all, then you saw that I have made some changes along the way from what my original build was.
- Moved gas rail from rear to front
- Changed from March heads to Chugger SS heads
- Changed from McMaster brass QD's to B3 stainless QD's
- Changed spark igniters to hot surface igniters
- Added tippy dump

I've toyed with the idea of changing my burners from the wok style jet burners to the Bayou Classic BG14 style burners. Mostly just because of how loud the jet burners are. However, after building another stand with the BG14 burners, they were a pain to get dialed in for proper air & gas flows and I think the top gussetts that I have on the rig would hinder air (combustion) flow from escaping under the kettles. With the velocity of the air and flames of the jet burners, it hasn't been an issue though.

I absolutely love the 3 pump setup though. I quite often do double batch brew days and having the first batch in the BK and starting the second in the MLT is a great time saver.

 

[brewman !]

I absolutely love the 3 pump setup though. I quite often do double batch brew days and having the first batch in the BK and starting the second in the MLT is a great time saver.

Thanks for sharing that.

I'm building a 3 pump brew stand with exactly that in mind. Brew days are hard to come by and I need as much productivity out of them as I can get. Sad, but true.

 

[fxdude]

Just got through the entire thread (along with your keezer build), the stand is just what I'm looking for. I was thinking about going with a Brew Magic set up but I wanted a single tier with automated burner control and to use Blichmann pots, this looks like exactly what I was wanting to build.

Thanks for the all of the details and answering of the many questions. I'll have to make my way down to Huntington Beach some time to drop off a few beers as I'm sure I'll have a few questions myself once I dive into this build.

 

[JonW]

I'll have to make my way down to Huntington Beach some time to drop off a few beers as I'm sure I'll have a few questions myself once I dive into this build.

You're welcome to come for a brew day some time.

 

[fxdude]

Will take you up on that offer, will bring something nice from my cellar.

 

[bduane]

If you read it all, then you saw that I have made some changes along the way from what my original build was.
- Moved gas rail from rear to front
- Changed from March heads to Chugger SS heads
- Changed from McMaster brass QD's to B3 stainless QD's
- Changed spark igniters to hot surface igniters
- Added tippy dump

I've toyed with the idea of changing my burners from the wok style jet burners to the Bayou Classic BG14 style burners. Mostly just because of how loud the jet burners are. However, after building another stand with the BG14 burners, they were a pain to get dialed in for proper air & gas flows and I think the top gussetts that I have on the rig would hinder air (combustion) flow from escaping under the kettles. With the velocity of the air and flames of the jet burners, it hasn't been an issue though.

I absolutely love the 3 pump setup though. I quite often do double batch brew days and having the first batch in the BK and starting the second in the MLT is a great time saver.

I did see all of those modifications, my question was more in regards to the stand itself, the frame. Are you completely happy with the configuration of the stands frame, other than Stainless of course.

 

[JonW]

I did see all of those modifications, my question was more in regards to the stand itself, the frame. Are you completely happy with the configuration of the stands frame, other than Stainless of course.

Yes, for what I wanted, I'm very happy with the stand dimensions and build design. I have thought about doing it again in SS only because I've had several people interested in buying mine. I may do it, don't know yet.

I did help a friend build a clone of mine and I changed up the design for his. We were using the BG14 burners for his and decided to create a design that would open the rear of the frame for better venting of the burners. Instead of a 2x2 bar across the back, I used a 1/8" thick by 2" wide steel plate so that the footprint from the top was identical, but the back ended up being wide open. We also added vertical uprights in the rear since we didn't have a solid rail across the back. This added a lot of extra miter cuts and welding, but the result came out really nice. We also put in a piece of box tubing behind the lower front rail for a better pump mounting area.

Here are some pics:

 

[allclene]

I'm not using any gas module. I have solenoid valves that control the gas flow and the igniters wired directly to an SSR. The BCS controls firing the igniters and the burner. There's a setting in the BCS where you tell it how long to fire the igniter before opening your valve and how long to continue firing it after opening the valve. For attended brewing, this works just fine. If you want to do unattended operations, then you should stay with the honeywell valves that have the flame dectectors and safety shutoffs.

Can you provide part numbers for the glowflies and the solinoids pleeeeese?

 

[JonW]

Can you provide part numbers for the glowflies and the solinoids pleeeeese?

Info for both is already in this thread.

 

[allclene]

I received my igniters and I noticed there is no reference to where the ideal place is to place them by burner. What was the distance you placed yours from the burner and is it supposed to be sticking into the flame or next to the flame of the burner.

 

[mikescooling]

Nice brew stand, and thanks for the break down of all the steel. Is that 16 gauge tubing?

 

[JonW]

I received my igniters and I noticed there is no reference to where the ideal place is to place them by burner. What was the distance you placed yours from the burner and is it supposed to be sticking into the flame or next to the flame of the burner.

This all depends on the style of burners you have. You just need to place them next to some jets/tips.

Nice brew stand, and thanks for the break down of all the steel. Is that 16 gauge tubing?

Thank you. The steel was 3/32". Not sure what that comes out to as a gauge equivalent.

 

[trekbiker1500]

It's pretty standard stuff. 1/2" SS pipe with Swagelok compression fittings. I picked the pieces up on Ebay.

Looks like SS tubing vs pipe, is that accurate? Planning in my head how my set up is going together. Piecing together materials now. Dunno when I will have all on hand...but the journey is the fun part anyway. Merry Christmas.

 

[JonW]

Looks like SS tubing vs pipe, is that accurate?

Yes, it is 1/2" SS tubing w/ Swagelok compression fittings.

 

[bduane]

Yes, it is 1/2" SS tubing w/ Swagelok compression fittings.

A lot of the pictures aren't loading right now, so not sure if this was in the drawing, but what length SS tubes did you end up using? I ask because brewhardware.com has 8" SS nipples, not sure if that could work to simplify things the plumbing. I figure if it doesn't add enough length, I could compensate with longer nipples between the valves and the pumps.

 

[JonW]

A lot of the pictures aren't loading right now, so not sure if this was in the drawing, but what length SS tubes did you end up using? I ask because brewhardware.com has 8" SS nipples, not sure if that could work to simplify things the plumbing. I figure if it doesn't add enough length, I could compensate with longer nipples between the valves and the pumps.

Pics are loading now... had a server issue this morning.

The SS tubes are about 12" long each. I had originally thought about using SS nipples, but decided on the tubing for a couple of reasons. The first being that it is much easier to get the tubing to the exact length I needed for the pump spacing instead of messing with nipples/couplers. The second reason is that it makes it easier to remove a pump for any servicing needs since they won't all be hard piped together.

 

[603shane]

Jon, I'm very inspired by your build. In fact, I'm attempting to create a similar version... Was there any logic behind using the inline pump versus the center version? From what i've read, the center pump has less issues with priming...?

 

[JonW]

Jon, I'm very inspired by your build. In fact, I'm attempting to create a similar version... Was there any logic behind using the inline pump versus the center version? From what i've read, the center pump has less issues with priming...?

Initially, there was no logic to use the inline versions, as I had two pumps from my old system, so that's what I used. However, as I started planning out my plumbing and where I wanted to put my temp probes, the inline versions ended up being useful for mounting the "T" fitting on the inlet side. This gave me both a front facing connection point for the hose as well as a rear facing connection point for the temp probe.

 

[mikescooling]

Hey JonW I just picked up the steel tubing, I had the guy's there cut it, so my/your stand is taking shape. Your casters are hard core, where did you get them?

 

[JonW]

Hey JonW I just picked up the steel tubing, I had the guy's there cut it, so my/your stand is taking shape. Your casters are hard core, where did you get them?

Good to hear that my stand, I mean, your stand, is coming along!

I love the casters I have. They lock both in swivelling and rolling and are a perfect fit for the 2" tubing. You just slide them in and twist until they are tight. I got them from Derrin at BrewersHardware.com . Since he didn't have them on the website, I just checked with him and he said he will have them back in stock in a couple of weeks.

 

[SeanGC]

Do you think the steel tubing tippy setup would work with a 1bbl system?

 

[electrobrew]

JonW, I have been thinking about your setup and building one like it. I will probably have many questions throughout the project that I will post. Is there any reason to use two valves per pump instead of a three way valve per pump? Thanks for the help.

D.L.

 

[JonW]

Do you think the steel tubing tippy setup would work with a 1bbl system?

I really couldn't tell you. If I'm doing a bigger beer with 30# of grain, that is probably around 60# wet (or more). How heavy is your mash tun when it's full?

JonW, I have been thinking about your setup and building one like it. I will probably have many questions throughout the project that I will post. Is there any reason to use two valves per pump instead of a three way valve per pump? Thanks for the help.
D.L.

I thought hard about using 3 way valves. At the time, I couldn't find an NPT threaded one at a reasonable cost (they were all BSP). There are also a few benefits to using two way valves. One is that I can top off the BK with water from the HLT if needed, but the 3 ways would block the flow of doing that (going past the MLT). The other thing is that when I flush my lines after brewing, I can attach my water line to one point (far left HLT connection) and progressively flush through the system opening valves. With the 3 ways, you'd have to connect & disconnect your hose to flush each section. In the end, it's just personal preference.

 

[SeanGC]

I haven't purchased a 1bbl mash tun, yet. I was making arrangements to purchase one, but life got in the way lol. However, when I'm ready to buy one I'd like a tippy dump set up, and I really love the way yours works.

I'll find the average weight of a 1bbl mash tun full and get back to you.

 

[mikescooling]

It's alive!!!! Casters are on the way and I have some grinding and painting to do; and weld the last two pieces (that helps). If you didn't share the cut list, I would still be putting this off. Thanks again man!!

 

[JonW]

It's alive!!!! Casters are on the way and I have some grinding and painting. If you didn't share the cut list, I would still be putting this off. Thanks again man!!

Very cool! I look forward to seeing your build thread.