Simcoe Select from Midwest fermentation question

[leemorgan]

I just brewed an all grain version of this. My question is how long should I leave in primary if I'm skipping secondary, before bottling? I would also like to dry hop with two oz of Simcoe, too much? When should I do the dry hop? This is how I ferment in the garage in the cold.
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[masskrug]

I would ferment for two weeks, then dry hop for a week. 2oz will be fine.

 

[jahdub]

My IPA schedule is generally 2 weeks primary, cold crash for 24 hours, dry hop for a 5-7 days, cold crash 24 hours, then bottle. About 21-23 days, total. All in the same vessel. Not sure what that recipe is, but 2 oz simcoe dry hop sounds nice.

 

[leemorgan]

Jahdub, do you keg? Would cold crashing be a problem if I bottle? What s your process for cold crashing? I appreciate your help.


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[jahdub]

I bottle and I always cold crash prior to dry hop. I cold crash again before bottling for every beer I dry hop.

I just turn my fermentation freezer down to about 40F, then 24 hours later add hops and increase the temp to 68F. After 5-7 days, I turn it back down to 40F and bottle after 24 hours.

It may or may not take slightly longer to carbonate after cold crashing. I've only done this about 6 times, half of which I used champagne yeast at bottling. It still carbonates within 10 days without using additional yeast. My IPAs taste extremely clean. There's nothing I've been able to easily buy commercially that I would prefer to drink, IPA-wise.

 

[Smellyglove]

I ferment for approx two weeks. Dry hop on day 9, let them sit for five days and then start cold crash. CC for two days then rack. From day 7 with dryhops and on I've noticed the beer starts to get some grass-flavors from the dryhops. If you dryhop a cold beer it takes longer to get the same result as dryhopping a beer (ale) at ferm temp.

 

[leemorgan]

I like that idea. I'm going to ferm for 2 weeks and dry hop for an additional week then CC. What temp is preferred for cold crashing? Can everyone assure I will still have enough yeast to carbonate during bottling. This will be my first CC, but I am eager to do so and clear up my brew.

 

[Smellyglove]

My experience is that bottle carbing a CCed beer takes a little longer than with no CC. You'll still have enough yeast, no worries. Although if you are making a high carbed beer like a belgian or perhaps a classic hefe then you should't CC them, by most a "semi-CC".

For maximum effect from cold crash let the temp drop to as close to freezing. If bottle carbing at a high temp let the bottles acclimate themsemselves to ambient temp before putting in high temp carb-area, to not stress the yeast. I've experienced very poor carbonation from going straight from CC temp to 35C. My guess is that the yeast just surrendered.

 

[leemorgan]

Can I take it from 68 degrees to 40 without problem?


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[eastoak]

Can I take it from 68 degrees to 40 without problem?


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yes you can.

 

[Smellyglove]

But when making a lager you might want to make this temp drop slower than just slamming it down to 20F at once. I have not experienced this my self, but according to some sources yeast can show sign of stress when CCing quickly, and excrete some unwanted flavors. Since a lager is much cleaner this can in worst case be noticeable, if it happens.

 

[jahdub]

I doubt there is any concern with shocking the yeast from lowering the temp too quickly or anything similar. Logically, does it even make sense? We routinely run our starters to completeness, then crash them in the fridge, then pitch. I imagine a small starter drops temperature much more quickly than a 5 gallon carboy of beer.

Regarding styles to cold crash on, I only do it for quick turn-around beers, such as pale ales and IPAs, that would have a lot of hops. If I'm gonna have more than a few weeks in primary or use a secondary, most of the hops and yeast will flocculate at fermentation temperature.

 

[Smellyglove]

But you decant your starter and the starter is a small volume comparing to a full batch.

Eitherway. This was something I've read, I can't remember the sources, but one of them was a brewmaster and a homebrew guru which I trust.