Side by Side Fridgenstein (Amana)

[kfirestar1]

I have decided, as many of you, to convert an old side by side into a keggerator/fermentation chamber. I am starting with an Amana SSD25TW side-by-side refrigerator (picture below). The project is going to include two temperature controllers to keep each side at variable temperatures.

A major problem, though, is that I'm no electrician and this SOB has got one of the most complicated wiring diagrams I've ever seen (see below).

I'm going to use two Inkbird ITC 1000s. Now, I'm thinking, in order to wire this completely correct, I need to replace the current temperature control module (shown in red) with one of the ITCs. That will control the compressor and the temp for the freezer side. If I'm reading this diagram correctly, I'll just need to splice red in to both the power supply and the output power hubs. Then, instead of power outbound to another part of the system, just send the yellow wire coming off of the existing temperature controller. It seems like it heads to two places: the defrost control board's K port (no clue what that means), and the evap fan, presumably to start pumping that cold air all up and down the freezer through the false back wall when the temperature rises over the threshold. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong so that I'm not aimlessly wiring and unwiring things.

The other ITC would be controlling two fans in the center wall to circulate cold air. I've heard the best thing to do is take the neutral line and splice that in to the return line of the evap fan before the defrost system so those fans aren't circulating air when it's on, I'm just not sure where to splice, where I have it labeled (orange lines) or on the other brown line at the 6 o'clock position. Trial and error, again, until someone stops me.

Stay tuned for the rest of the build-out and feel free to offer those good nuggets of wisdom, all you builders out there. I could always use the help.

 

[kfirestar1]

After gutting the electrical components I'm not keeping, the unnecessary clutter, drawers, shelves, supports and inside door liners, I am left with two relatively bare compartments and a gaping hole in the freezer door. There is so much grime from years of not using the thing that I am setting out on a cleaning and samitization routine that will likely rival a clean room at the CDC. If I fail to continue posting, I have probably succumbed to whatever alien species and bacterium that have called this fridge home and is now infecting me at a molecular level. Know that I died chasing the home brewing dream and pray for me at the hour of my death.

 

[Chadzero]

Hey Man, just for some inspiration, check out my album for my side-by-side build. I ended up running the entire fridge off a controller with it's probe in the freezer side. This eliminated removing any of the compressor wiring. Then, I used a second controller for the fridge side controller a fan to kick cold air over (eliminating the original passive ducting passthrough). Later I added an additional heater to the fridge side as well.
http://imgur.com/a/BezCj

 

[eric19312]

nice build! What is capacity? Corneys and Fermenters? Pic of finished system with open doors please

 

[kfirestar1]

Hey Man, just for some inspiration, check out my album for my side-by-side build. I ended up running the entire fridge off a controller with it's probe in the freezer side. This eliminated removing any of the compressor wiring. Then, I used a second controller for the fridge side controller a fan to kick cold air over (eliminating the original passive ducting passthrough). Later I added an additional heater to the fridge side as well.

That's exactly what I'm looking to do. Thanks man, I'll be picking through it all as I continue this build. Cheers!

 

[kfirestar1]

nice build! What is capacity? Corneys and Fermenters? Pic of finished system with open doors please

It's a 25 cu ft fridge and I'm thinking I can get 4 corneys and at least three five and a half gallon carboys... we will see when I install shelving. The project is still very much in the works, I'm posting as I go but I promise to get a completion photo the second it is done. Cheers!

 

[Chadzero]

Sorry, I think I hid the build album link right above the picture: http://imgur.com/a/BezCj

 

[kfirestar1]

Continuation: cleaning was successful and I didn't die... yet. It was time to plug the hole left by the ice dispenser. I used a piece of MDF, some good foam sealant, and a 1x4 to set the conditions for the taps to be put in later. I still want to put a board on the front to close the loop completely on the door.

 

[kfirestar1]

Next I cut the positions for my two Inkbird ITC-1000s. The front face isn't much larger than the body (a whopping 3mm all around) so I erred on the side of too small and grinded the edges until I had a nice tight fit using a dremel and a skilsaw. Once I have the wiring completely to my liking, I will caulk and seal both controllers in to place.

 

[kfirestar1]

Now for wiring:

I said earlier, I'm no electrician. This still holds true, but I found that once you start looking at the wiring diagram for hours on end, and bashing your head against it until osmosis happens, you figure out what needs to go where. In my case, my original thought from the early post works well for the freezer side. I spliced power in to the keggerator side ITC from the door open switch, which I disconnected since it no longer has a purpose. Red hot goes in to the main power (port 1) and to the cooling section (port 7). The neutral line will travel to the site of the removed freezer light, and the output to the compressor and cooler will run to port 8 from the previous lines in the old temperature control unit.

As for the fermentation side, the previous temperature control provides both hot and neutral. Then the next thing I'll need is to wire in the two fans taking their control from the ITC... stupid me though, I bought the wrong case fans, so I'll need to reorder those.

I know it looks like a rat near in there but I want to hide all the wiring behind shelving when I eventually get all that in there.

 

[kfirestar1]

Let's talk beautification:

Obviously foam is not particularly pretty (not that it has to be, functionality is much more important than form). Inspired by another build, I decided to cover the inside of the freezer door with aluminum flashing (for roofs and such) to not only cover the foam but add to the keggerator' she ability to keep cooler. I started by founding the two pieces, since they don't have 18" rolls, with duct tape. Then I utilized the old door panel to size and line up holes. I cut and drilled holes for screws, the ITC, and access to the backing to the taps.

Big shocker at this stage, the holes didn't line up perfectly. Lesson learned: use wax paper and a pencil to transfer the exact size, hole location and shape to the aluminum... next time, I'll know better.

 

[kfirestar1]

The other door I lined with dry erase board so that we could write recipe info on the door during fermentation.

 

[kfirestar1]

I'm still waiting on my 115v ac fans to come in so I began installing the shelves which will help me line everything else up. After finding nothing cost effective in terms of pre fabricated shelving at Lowes that could also handle the weight of two batches going at the same time, I decided to make my own. I utilized L brackets, backed by foot long 1x3s and mounted the whole setup into the walls.

Just using the set screws seemed a bit flimsy so I reinforced the board with self tapping screws. Now I'm fairly confident that the shelves could support me sitting in there. The tops are simple MDF, bolted in to the brackets. I also recessed the heads so that kegs and carboys don't meet resistance going in or out.

 

[kfirestar1]

The fans came in today. I ordered two 115v act case fans pushing an astounding 120 cfm which will do well to pull cold air into the fermentation chamber. After cutting holes to fit the fans in their entireties, I mounted them to the back of the drier louvres. To do this all I had to do was cut off the existing ring on the back of the louvre, drill pilot holes and screw in. I wired the incoming power from the fridge side ITC and the neutral to the evaporator fan's neutral. This way, and I tested this, the fans don't kick on when the defroster is doing its job.

 

[kfirestar1]

At this point, the project is going to be put on hold. We are moving across country at the end of the week. All electrical works, the internals are back in place.... it's not currently going to win any contests for creative wiring or beauty but I'm satisfied with functioning. The keggerator side will be finished when I get all the lines, taps, and manifolds but that will be some time down the road. For now, thanks for tuning in, and for those of you who helped and advised, thank you. As promised, here are photos of the project inside. You will see it has room for 4 kegs and 3+ carboys.

 

[kfirestar1]

I have finally returned to the project. Happily having moved across country.

I ordered my tubing, taps, and a 4.25” shank to attempt to size the depth I’d need. I wound up needing 5.25” for comfort and got four. While waiting, I continued beautification.

I decided I wanted to go black enamel on the fridge and want to paint my logo across the doors. First, I filled all the screw holes left behind by the former door handles. Next I sanded the entire outside surface of the fridge. Use coarse grade paper and I would recommend a belt sander or circular sander to cut down on the time. Using the Mouse was a bit tedious. Side note, don’t be stupid, be a smarty, wear a mask like at a rave party!

 

[kfirestar1]

Enamel paint acts very similar to oil based... except that it doesn’t adhere particularly well to fridge doors. Even sanded fridge doors. Also, during the sanding, I noticed several small spots where rust was developing. I sanded as much off as possible then applied a rust removing solution. You can get it at any hardware store and it works fairly well. Once it dried, I applied two layers of a rust proofing oil based primer from rustoleum.

 

[kfirestar1]

PS, you may be able to tell, I drilled out the holes for the shanks through all parts of the door using a 7/8” drum bit.