Show us your sculpture or brew rig

[devils4ever]

Here's HERMS setup. I built mine on an Aluminum platform truck and used Blichmann burners and 80/20 T-slot for the mash tun. I built the controller with an Auber SYL-2342 PID controller.

This brewstand was pretty easy since it requires no cutting or welding. Just drill holes to mount everything and bolt it together with stainless steel hardware.

 

[CaptainDucman]

A tour/video of a hot water test with the new kettles from Stout Tanks & Kettles.

http://youtu.be/ssEPSc28AK0

 

[RocketBrewer]

A tour/video of a hot water test with the new kettles from Stout Tanks & Kettles.

http://youtu.be/ssEPSc28AK0

Very Nice!

 

[NoH20]

A tour/video of a hot water test with the new kettles from Stout Tanks & Kettles.

http://youtu.be/ssEPSc28AK0

Can you share any further shots of your plumbing on the rig?

Todd

 

[CaptainDucman]

Sure. But as a warning, this pic has more 3 ways than a.... Never mind

My goal was to not have to disconnect anything that has liquid in it that would
a. Make a mess or
b. Burn me.

I can recirc the strike/mash through the herms coil. While maintaining a desired temp and flow rate.

I can send the wort to the BK while simultaneously pumping HLT sparge water though the herms coil and sparging in the MT. While maintaining the same rate into the MT as I'm pumping out to the BK.

I plumbed the BK so that I can use both pumps for whirlpooling (idea I saw here on HBT)

Finally, after the boil, I fill the HLT with ice/water so I can run the boiling wort back through the herms coil for cooling then through the aeration stone and into the fermenter.

All the same setup I used with cam locks and keggles just with much nicer tri clamps and kettles.

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1444397661.979077.jpg

 

[Ruxi]

Thanks for sharing all of your pictures - great inspiration

 

[orangehero]

Sure. But as a warning, this pic has more 3 ways than a.... Never mind

My goal was to not have to disconnect anything that has liquid in it that would
a. Make a mess or
b. Burn me.

I can recirc the strike/mash through the herms coil. While maintaining a desired temp and flow rate.

I can send the wort to the BK while simultaneously pumping HLT sparge water though the herms coil and sparging in the MT. While maintaining the same rate into the MT as I'm pumping out to the BK.

I plumbed the BK so that I can use both pumps for whirlpooling (idea I saw here on HBT)

Finally, after the boil, I fill the HLT with ice/water so I can run the boiling wort back through the herms coil for cooling then through the aeration stone and into the fermenter.

All the same setup I used with cam locks and keggles just with much nicer tri clamps and kettles.

View attachment 308449

What is the sight glass on the right? How are you chilling?

 

[CaptainDucman]

All the way on the right is the aeration stone in a sight glass, O2 connects to the top and the wort is coming out of the HERMS at ~65' then being aerated just before it goes into the fermenter.

During the boil, I drain the hot water from the HLT and replace it with 40lbs of ice then water. HERMS coil becomes the chiller.

 

[orangehero]

All the way on the right is the aeration stone in a sight glass, O2 connects to the top and the wort is coming out of the HERMS at ~65' then being aerated just before it goes into the fermenter.

During the boil, I drain the hot water from the HLT and replace it with 40lbs of ice then water. HERMS coil becomes the chiller.

Ah. Clearly money is no object, but are you happy with using 40lbs of ice every time you brew? How long does it take?

Are you running the pumps in tandem for chilling also? If not, why is the beefier pump on the MT/HLT circuit?

 

[CaptainDucman]

Money is always an object, saved my allowance for a long time and built slowly [emoji1]

For ice, I brew with fire chiefs who bring coolers full from their stations.

For chilling It's literally one pass, not wide open, valve partially closed to let the wort spend more time in the coils. In FL our tap water is always warm and a chiller would take forever.

I only run the pumps in tandem for whirlpooling, chilling I want a slower flow.

One is a chugger one is a March, both have the same pump head/impeller.

 

[hennels]

I've been scrolling through this thread for the past 3 months or so, and a while ago came across this stand and saved the pic to my notebook. Unable to find the stand in the 350++ pages, I'm re-uploading it.



Anyone know who it belongs to?
I'm interrested in more details
I like the stand and how the bottom tier was placed with the opening where the HLT stands on.

 

[GeorgiaMead]

Has anyone used a steel mesh/wire to create a spot for the kettles, instead of the supports running across the top of the frame? Im thinking of putting 2 braces and tackin on wire mesh, but I wanna make sure it can take the heat and weight

 

[kevink]

All the way on the right is the aeration stone in a sight glass, O2 connects to the top and the wort is coming out of the HERMS at ~65' then being aerated just before it goes into the fermenter.

During the boil, I drain the hot water from the HLT and replace it with 40lbs of ice then water. HERMS coil becomes the chiller.

Nice system. What volume of wort do you chill and what's is the starting temp and pitching temp? How long does it take? I'm thinking about doing the same thing but would like an idea of what to expect first.

 

[Smithy]

GeorgiaMead,

The steel mesh you are referring to is called "expanded metal". You can get it in mild steel as well as stainless. For small stuff I use onlinemetals.com

Stainless will take the heat no problem. Mild steel will to but degrades after many series of heating/cooling. Custom grill makers use it for cook surfaces. It does take a long time to degrade.

You can weld stainless to mild steel (in case you or anybody else doesn't know that). I use a 308 rod and TIG weld it but you can use an ER70-S2 or S6 and have results.

 

[Lost_Arkitekt]

GeorgiaMead,

The steel mesh you are referring to is called "expanded metal". You can get it in mild steel as well as stainless. For small stuff I use onlinemetals.com

Stainless will take the heat no problem. Mild steel will to but degrades after many series of heating/cooling. Custom grill makers use it for cook surfaces. It does take a long time to degrade.

You can weld stainless to mild steel (in case you or anybody else doesn't know that). I use a 308 rod and TIG weld it but you can use an ER70-S2 or S6 and have results.

DO NOT use either of those filler materials to weld dissimilar metals. What you want to use to weld stainless to carbon is 309L...specifically made for that purpose.

 

[Ariando]

Without too much Technical info what is issue with 70-s I think that is in my mig

 

[Lost_Arkitekt]

Your weld will be treated like the carbon steel and will weaken with heat cycles. It will also rust, which means the part where the expanded metal hits the weld will rust through the expanded metal.

 

[Lost_Arkitekt]

For those of you who want to know...and learn a few things. This guy is great because he claims to be a "Down and Dirty Welder...not a PhD" but his knowledge of metallurgy and welding is on par with someone who has a PhD.

http://welding-tv.com/?s=309L

Read the TIG Welding Steel -- 309L Filler Rod. The same applies for MIG wire... 309L. I made some exhaust stacks for a meat smoker...welded some stainless elbows to the carbon pipe. The carbon pipe is rusting up, but the welds and the elbows are not. This doesn't really matter on 3/16" thick pipe for a smoker exhaust, but on something that has small points of connection like expanded metal, the weld will rust through where the expanded metal is if you use 70S-2 or 70S-6.

Unless critical, I use 309L for all Stainless to Carbon welds, then I would use something like the Hastelloy W, etc.

 

[Smithy]

Fat finger typing. Yes 309 not 308...

However, DO NOT use those that I spoke of? It's a burner surface on a homebrew bench, not an ASME B31.3 coded and inspected pipe run!

Use 308 or ER70-S anything and you will likely never see a problem! I haven't during my 30 years as a Engineer Technician and certified welder in a destructive R&D environment with many certified disciplines but I know when and when not to use that scenario. I speak from an empirical opinion given the question!

Are you running a one barrel system? If you are it's likely you have a larger bench anyway and not going to use expanded metal for support. I would be willing to guess most have a Harbor Freight or Home Depot MIG using FCAW wire anyway. They want what works, not what is engineered.

Keep it simple as most do on this site. Look at all the wood brew benches. My opinion is I think that's nuts but how many are burning down the house? We will never know. People make do and have fun doing so!

DO NOT use??? Whatever...

 

[Lost_Arkitekt]

You can do what you want. Unlike Smithy, I'm an architect, a furniture designer-builder, and a jack-of-all-trades fabricator. I have seen expanded metal rust through completely in the same type of environment we are talking about here...outdoor "cooking". Now in your case, the actual expanded medal won't rust, but if you use 70S and likely even 308, the small pieces of expanded metal will rust where they meet the weld...unless of course you never get it wet.

I guess Smithy will probably say that carbon steel won't rust now. Haha.

Your project may be live forever with 70S welds, but if you take all that time to do something, what's the big deal of buying a small roll (might even find a partial) of 309L wire on eBay?

Re: wooden brewing stands...are they for electric kettles? I've heard of people deep frying frozen turkeys and lived to tell about it, but you wouldn't catch me trying it.

 

[Teraflx]

Here is my setup.....

All electric 15 gallon E-Herms 50A PID controlled system.
3 15 Gallon Bru Gear Kettles
All Tri Clamp setup
2 SS Chugger pumps
2 Dudu Chillers
Stainless Hop Spider
MoreBeer Sparge Arm
2 14 Gallon Chapman Fermenters
Converted fridge for fermentation

 

[cjones]

very impressive

 

[jbb3]

Wow

 

[1fast636]

How do you like the chapman fermenters the prices are amazing, but looks like the bottom would pull some sediment when transferring out of the fermenter? If you say they are great I think I found my next investment lol

 

[1fast636]

Oh And your brewery is a thing of beauty one day mine will
Be that nice in side lol

 

[CaptainDucman]

Nice system. What volume of wort do you chill and what's is the starting temp and pitching temp? How long does it take? I'm thinking about doing the same thing but would like an idea of what to expect first.

Thank you.

We did our first 10gal batch with the new kettles ~10 days ago. Started at boiling temp ~213, and in about ten mins of recirculating thru the HERMS coil submerged in ice it was down to 65 degrees. View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1446324497.762921.jpgView attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1446324523.995512.jpg

In the keggles system I had 50' of copper for the herms coil, and by restricting the flow (letting it spend more time in the coil exchanging heat) I could do a one pass chill. The stainless is a shorter coil and doesn't exchange heat as efficiently as the copper did.

 

[Teraflx]

How do you like the chapman fermenters the prices are amazing, but looks like the bottom would pull some sediment when transferring out of the fermenter? If you say they are great I think I found my next investment lol

I really like them, I would say the ball valve is about 2" up from the bottom. I haven't had any issues with it pulling anything from the bottom but I always use my hop spider as an extra filter when I transfer the beer. I would say these are no different than a bucket with a ball valve. Not as good as a Conical but I just couldn't justify the cost and they also often don't fit in fridges which is a must since I brew in AZ.

 

[1fast636]

Thanks looks like it will be on my list of upgrades lol I just wasn't sure about the height of the valve that's where I was sorta like eh but sounds great thanks for the info

 

[Teraflx]

Thanks looks like it will be on my list of upgrades lol I just wasn't sure about the height of the valve that's where I was sorta like eh but sounds great thanks for the info

No problem at all, it sits about 1.5" high on the 7gal fermenter and about 2" high on the 14gal fermenter. Overall I am very happy with them and they seal perfect. The only thing I personally would change would be the handles. I just don't trust them when my 14 gallon one is close to full. For the price, I would buy them again for sure and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

 

[1fast636]

No problem at all, it sits about 1.5" high on the 7gal fermenter and about 2" high on the 14gal fermenter. Overall I am very happy with them and they seal perfect. The only thing I personally would change would be the handles. I just don't trust them when my 14 gallon one is close to full. For the price, I would buy them again for sure and wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

Yea the price is killer so think I will be getting them sooner then later to get rid of my plastic buckets and carboys till I can afford some conicals