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Show us your Kegerator
- Thread starter Flyin' Lion
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Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
That's a great idea.
digital temp on the front is cool
Bedliner, maybe?
trubgerg
New Member
There was a lot of inspiration from this thread as I built my draft set up. Thank you.
Wow! I hadn't hopped on in a while because. well, some life happened. And so thanks for the replies and being an inspiration.
As for the interior. I'm actually not happy with it at the moment. I bought some spray interior, rustolium for appliances, thinking it would be perfect:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...oxy-Gloss-Black-Spray-Paint-7886830/100141519
Do not recommend inside the keezer. I'm not sure if it's the humidity (just added a dehumidifier and fan) but it flakes off to the wipe. It maybe that the keezer walls get way too cold, and makes it brittle or I didn't have it sanded down enough, so it couldn't bind to the silver lining in the keezer.
And since it was spray, even though it claimed to be epoxy (i was thinking it would be thick like garage floor liner), it was a super thin layer.
I may repaint it with black again, but with a brush and real epoxy tinted paint or something.
Yes! I love the digital temp! It was easy to hook up, and I like it better than the normal inkbird controller. The only downside to this inkbird controller is that it does not have wifi like my other one does.
I'm glad it was helpful!
As for the interior. I'm actually not happy with it at the moment. I bought some spray interior, rustolium for appliances, thinking it would be perfect:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ol...oxy-Gloss-Black-Spray-Paint-7886830/100141519
Do not recommend inside the keezer. I'm not sure if it's the humidity (just added a dehumidifier and fan) but it flakes off to the wipe. It maybe that the keezer walls get way too cold, and makes it brittle or I didn't have it sanded down enough, so it couldn't bind to the silver lining in the keezer.
And since it was spray, even though it claimed to be epoxy (i was thinking it would be thick like garage floor liner), it was a super thin layer.
I may repaint it with black again, but with a brush and real epoxy tinted paint or something.
Yes! I love the digital temp! It was easy to hook up, and I like it better than the normal inkbird controller. The only downside to this inkbird controller is that it does not have wifi like my other one does.
I'm glad it was helpful!
Nitro keezer:
Hard to see the etching on the tap handles in this light. The taps are labeled &, %, and @. I’m already using numbers for keezer #1 and letters for keezer #2.
Inside is bog-standard, EVA + Duotight. Manifold for beer gas, secondary for CO2 for initial carbonation:
The kegs sit on a shelf, stood off a few inches from the freezer bottom, with 2 fans blowing to circulate air:
Hard to see the etching on the tap handles in this light. The taps are labeled &, %, and @. I’m already using numbers for keezer #1 and letters for keezer #2.
Inside is bog-standard, EVA + Duotight. Manifold for beer gas, secondary for CO2 for initial carbonation:
The kegs sit on a shelf, stood off a few inches from the freezer bottom, with 2 fans blowing to circulate air:
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Thanks! Yes, I used stencils and salt-water etching with an AC/DC power supply. (DC removes metal, AC turns the surface black.)
I did the battery charger trick when I did my mash tun. My numbers were chalky white. I didn't know AC would make the numbers black. Any particular supply you used? I may go that route and redo my MLT and some other projects.
I just used an AC wall wart (I think it was 12 VAC). I did the standard stuff to get DC (diode bridge, capacitor, voltage regulator), but just used the AC as-is.
Pardon my ignorance, but can you dumb it down more? I think the "AC as is" is throwing me off.
I had a DC battery charger I used when I did mine. It was just a matter of the black (-) connection to the kettle and the red (+) connection to a Q-tip in some vinegar/salt solution. Mine is still pretty legible, but I like the black much better like what's on my Spike kettles.
Sorry! Most of the plug-into-the-wall transformers will both bring the wall voltage down and convert AC to DC. There are some that lower the voltage but keep it AC. I used something like this:
https://www.newark.com/triad-magnetics/wau12-1000/adaptor-ac-ac-120v-12v-1a/dp/96M0296
One connection to the metal part, one to a Q-tip, just as before. I didn't use vinegar, just salt, but I bet it works both ways.
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Any suggestions on where to mount a distribution manifold inside the fridge?
I added a third tap and decided to clean up the CO2 lines and regulate each line individually.
Could definitely downsize the mounting plate.
I added a third tap and decided to clean up the CO2 lines and regulate each line individually.
Could definitely downsize the mounting plate.
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Consider the door
So, if it keeps it AC, just cut the plug off and split the wiring to the Q-tip and metal part? Seems easy enough. I may look around for some old wall warts that can work. Thanks!
I plan on going (hoping I can go?) this route with mine. I have the Komos so was wondering what would be the best way to mount the distributor to the door without it falling off? I plan on mounting a 4 port distributor and one secondary regulator for force carbing, so weight wise I hope it's easier.
What I like about the Komos is the back has carb caps, so the openings are completely closed off. This is great as I don't have to open the door for a gas connection for bottling or having to use the main tank if the spare is out.
I used 8 short fat (#10?) sheet metal screws through the door's inner steel panel. I was worried about the weight of the quad secondary Taprite, but it's been rock solid. Kegco commercial, not Komos: ymmv.
Yes, external CO2 tank gives more flexibility.
Remote CO2 I find is even better. I ran mine thru a in-wall water supply for an ice maker using a QD. Everything stays sealed when changing tanks.
The quick ‘n’ dirty keezer is now a bit more sophisticated. What started out, about a month ago, as a 5 cu ft freezer, a keg, a C02 bottle and regulator and a picnic tap now has 2 kegs, a gas manifold, and Intertap faucets in a box on the lid. Oh, and a drip tray. A quick ‘n’ dirty drip tray. Two cheese graters from the Dollar Store with the handles cut off and the graters pop riveted together and crimped into a shallow pan I bent up out of a scrap of galvanized sheet metal. Held in place with a bunch of little round magnets. Classy. 
oblongshapes
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DuncB
Well-Known Member
@oblongshapes
A wooden lid cover matching the collar would finish it off nicely. But it looks really good.
A wooden lid cover matching the collar would finish it off nicely. But it looks really good.
LJvermonster
Well-Known Member
@oblongshapes i second this! Would look so nice!
DuncB
Well-Known Member
Just noticed the glass washer on the bottom left is a bit inconvenient.
oblongshapes
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Yea, my dumb cat keeps using it and now I get fur in my glasses!
Thanks everyone. I hope to finish the lid eventually. I have some bocote wood to redo the drip tray. I'm going to start finishing the basement and will incorporate it into a bar setup.
The keezer is made with wood from every continent, except Antarctica, but maybe someone can find me a tree from there for the lid!
We've been collecting stickers for a few years but hesitated to stick them on our keezer just in case it burns out or whatever so we wouldn't have to throw them away with the freezer. The solution I came up with was to order a roll of white sheet magnet material designed for vehicle signage, and cut panels to fit the front of the keezer. Then we laid them on a table and spent some time laying them out before sticking them all down. When we were happy with the appearance I applied the panels to the keezer and you can barely see the added magnet layer. Magnet material wasn't cheap but we still have enough to do the entire top and one of the sides, and we have a bunch of stickers leftover as well.
Mac_rancher
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Another Danby conversion. Nothing real special, but it means a lot to me. I've been suffering from long covid for 13 months now and this project gives me something to look forward to...when I can brew again and enjoy some good beer. For now I need to continue to do what I can to get better, which means no beer for now.
Duotight throughout, intertap with springs, Komos tower and kegco guard rail. Eventually I'll get a tower cooler too. I used dust collection fittings to use for the collar. 4" to 2.5" reducer on top and I cut of the 4" section to use the leftover lip as a seal on the table top. 2.25" to 1.5" reducer for inside the fridge. Used leftover UHMW I had to make a plate, some sealant gorilla glue and caulk to seal everything. Going to eventually upgrade the tap handles
Duotight throughout, intertap with springs, Komos tower and kegco guard rail. Eventually I'll get a tower cooler too. I used dust collection fittings to use for the collar. 4" to 2.5" reducer on top and I cut of the 4" section to use the leftover lip as a seal on the table top. 2.25" to 1.5" reducer for inside the fridge. Used leftover UHMW I had to make a plate, some sealant gorilla glue and caulk to seal everything. Going to eventually upgrade the tap handles
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That's a nice looking setup, good call on the duotight. I've been wanting those flow control ball locks, interested in how they work out for you.
Get better soon,
Jayjay
Mac_rancher
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Thank you for the compliment and I hope I get better soon as well.
Instantly I realize now how Duotight are so much better than the regular hose and barb. Looking forward to trying out the 4mm id EVAbarrier tubing. I ran a fridge with a picnic tap for a while so I’m excited for when I can try this out. I had originally ordered the low profile Duotight disconnects but they accidentally shipped me the flow control. When I try them out I’ll make an update.
Very nice job - sorry to hear of the long covid, but something good comes from something bad. Get Well Soon!
What model number Danby did you get? Thanks.
What model number Danby did you get? Thanks.
Mac_rancher
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Thank you! I think there is light at the end of this tunnel and hoping I can turn a corner by the end of this year.
I got the Danby DAR044A4BSLDD-6. It was made a year and a half ago, so hopefully it has lots of life left in it.
I feel for you get better! I had long Covid issues for about 3 months after having it. Kegerator looks great!
I have a Danby mini freezer, about the size of your fridge. I took the door off of it and strapped it to a junk chest freezer that died. I used it that way with a temp controller as a beer fridge. It was very ugly, but it worked and limped me by for many years. I'm now working it into a proper beer fridge with a built insulated box that will also be strapped to the Danby freezer. Long story, but the point is the Danby has served me well and I expect many more years when I get the new fridge built.
nonamekevin
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Took a while to come up with this idea. I thought about hanging the distribution block on the back refrigerator plate, but it's pretty thin metal and the block is somewhat heavy without the hoses (didn't want to have the plate bend/warp). Also didn't want to put any permanent holes anywhere.
Not sure if I like the setup or not. I've yet to have a full kegerator with all three kegs and all the hoses, so that's my goal is to brew enough to fill it. Still want to get a bolt and maybe a wingnut to secure the co2 tank, and I need some tap handles, but other than that, it's gonna be the setup I run for a while.
Not sure if I like the setup or not. I've yet to have a full kegerator with all three kegs and all the hoses, so that's my goal is to brew enough to fill it. Still want to get a bolt and maybe a wingnut to secure the co2 tank, and I need some tap handles, but other than that, it's gonna be the setup I run for a while.
A couple things come to mind looking at your picture. Is there a way to have the CO2 tank/regulator/manifold outside of your kegerator? It appears the beers line exit the top into a tap tower, is there a way to sneak a gas line in too? A single gas line through there could supply your manifold or three gas line coming in with the manifold on the outside.
Or, fabricate a bracket to attach to the CO2 tank strap to hold your manifold and have a small piece of hose from the regulator.
Just some thoughts.
