Shoot big mistake

[Jako]

Well I racked into bottling bucket added priming sugar and just noticed I dont have bottle caps how I did this I have no idea.... Will I be okay to let it sit over night till I can run to the LHBS

 

[GPP33]

Can you put it in a fridge? Or at least somewhere cool?

In the future kegs are way easier

 

[Dcpcooks]

Well I racked into bottling bucket added priming sugar and just noticed I dont have bottle caps how I did this I have no idea.... Will I be okay to let it sit over night till I can run to the LHBS

If you have co2 you may want to purge the bucket to prevent oxidation but I suspect you don't.
If not seal it up as best you can and bottle asap tomorrow. If you see some bubbles in the morning you may need to add a bit more sugar, but you should be ok.

 

[eric19312]

You are fine. Put a lid on the bottling bucket. The yeast in the bucket will eat the priming sugar over next day or so and protect your beer from oxygen in the process. Probably need to give it about 2-3 days then add new priming sugar and bottle.

 

[Jako]

You are fine. Put a lid on the bottling bucket. The yeast in the bucket will eat the priming sugar over next day or so and protect your beer from oxygen in the process. Probably need to give it about 2-3 days then add new priming sugar and bottle.

Thanks for the quick help everyone, sadly no c02. I could put it outside going to be in the 50s.

Should I wait 2-3 days then start over or will tomorrow be okay if I ad a splash of sugar?

Thanks again I am still kicking myself over this. I had planned Washing the yeast tonight and making a cider all in one night.

 

[Jako]

If you have co2 you may want to purge the bucket to prevent oxidation but I suspect you don't.
If not seal it up as best you can and bottle asap tomorrow. If you see some bubbles in the morning you may need to add a bit more sugar, but you should be ok.

Had some bubbles today. I really thought about it I would rather drink flat beer then have bottles explode.

 

[RM-MN]

Thanks for the quick help everyone, sadly no c02. I could put it outside going to be in the 50s.

Should I wait 2-3 days then start over or will tomorrow be okay if I ad a splash of sugar?

Thanks again I am still kicking myself over this. I had planned Washing the yeast tonight and making a cider all in one night.

if you wait a few (maybe only a couple) days the yeast will eat all the sugar and you can start over with a clean slate and just add the correct amount of priming sugar for bottling. If you add sugar too soon, how will you know what portion of the sugar is gone so you add the right amount?

 

[jodell]

^This

Wait for that sugar to be done and start over. It won't be anything to serious

 

[Jako]

well shucks.... its all bottled up now. well i know for next time if i make the same mistake.. i hope not anyways thanks for all the help!

i hope someone learns from my mistake or reads this and is able to use the help provided to me. thanks again!

 

[65C]

it was no drama - the sugar takes a week to ferment out and carbonate

I think people take the air exposure and sanitation etc. too seriously - brewing yeast are hardy buggers - you need to try real hard to overpower that

a bit of oxygen etc. might knock the beer back 5% on taste but how do you think brewers coped 200 years ago before StarSan

just bottle it up and it'll likely be a good drinker in 2 weeks

 

[slym2none]

Can you put it in a fridge? Or at least somewhere cool?

In the future kegs are way easier

How so? You have to buy a lot of expensive equipment, keep supplying CO2, clean the lines, clean the kegs, etc.

I just put some sugar in a bottle, add the beer, and cap. Bottles are free, caps & capper are cheap.

Bottle on, my brothers! Don't fall for this ploy. Only get into kegging if you want to, not because others push you to it with misleading charges.

 

[schematix]

if you are using a bottling bucket you are way past the point of trying to save yourself from oxidation.

if your yeast was recently active it'll probably take down all the priming sugar in less than a day. the only reason it takes so long in a bottle is because you normally don't take all the yeast cells with you.

 

[slym2none]

Wow. Just wow.

 

[oceanic_brew]

We all oxidize at some point, even your mother.

Consider this for a moment.

 

[schematix]

Consider for a moment that air is about 200,000 ppm oxygen.

Also realize that high quality commercial breweries typically target around 0.2 ppm oxygen in the bottle. They do this because above this amount there is a noticeable impact on flavor.

Also consider that the diffusion rate of oxygen from the atmosphere is on the order of several ppm/hr.

Then also realize you racked a beer from a semi-permeable plastic bucket with porous o-rings after fermentation had been finished for days to weeks, into another bucket filled with air, where you exposed it for at least 15 minutes while it racked....

So yah, if you used a bottling bucket you already lost the oxidation game. Doesn't mean the beer will be terrible, but don't think for a second your beer won't be oxidized.

 

[Jako]

it was no drama - the sugar takes a week to ferment out and carbonate

I think people take the air exposure and sanitation etc. too seriously - brewing yeast are hardy buggers - you need to try real hard to overpower that

a bit of oxygen etc. might knock the beer back 5% on taste but how do you think brewers coped 200 years ago before StarSan

just bottle it up and it'll likely be a good drinker in 2 weeks

Hah I think we have the same mindset unfortunately I don't know jack squat.

My LHBS made it sound like it was going to oxidize a ton and it was runined.

 

[Jako]

Consider for a moment that air is about 200,000 ppm oxygen.

Also realize that high quality commercial breweries typically target around 0.2 ppm oxygen in the bottle. They do this because above this amount there is a noticeable impact on flavor.

Also consider that the diffusion rate of oxygen from the atmosphere is on the order of several ppm/hr.

Then also realize you racked a beer from a semi-permeable plastic bucket with porous o-rings after fermentation had been finished for days to weeks, into another bucket filled with air, where you exposed it for at least 15 minutes while it racked....

So yah, if you used a bottling bucket you already lost the oxidation game. Doesn't mean the beer will be terrible, but don't think for a second your beer won't be oxidized.

What is your current process to lower the chances of oxidation?

 

[eric19312]

well shucks.... its all bottled up now. well i know for next time if i make the same mistake.. i hope not anyways thanks for all the help!

i hope someone learns from my mistake or reads this and is able to use the help provided to me. thanks again!

I'm concerned if you added double priming sugar and did not wait for first priming sugar to ferment out you may has seriously over carbed. If you didn't add more priming sugar at bottling you may have under carbed because while you were getting caps the yeast were working...That is issue too...But if you did add priming sugar both when you made the original mistake and again when you capped and didn't wait long enough for first dose of priming sugar to ferment out you could have explosive situation...If that is possibly the case please keep the bottles somewhere that an explosion won't hurt anybody for a couple weeks until you get a chance to check carbonation level.

 

[schematix]

What is your current process to lower the chances of oxidation?

In a nutshell...

1. Crush grain immediately before using.
2. Purge mash tun with inert gas from bottom.
3. Pre-boil mash water. Rapidly chill to strike temp add small dose of sulfites.
4. Underlet mash. Stir once.
5. Mash cap.
6. Recirculate mash with return line beneath surface of liquid.
7. All fittings pressure tested with gas to ensure no venturi effect.
8. Boil gently.
9. Immediately chill, pitch yeast and then oxygenate.
10. Ferment in corny kegs under slight pressure (no oxygen ingress).
11. Water purge serving kegs with flush shortened dip tubes. This is key to getting all the air out of corny keg - there's a lot more than you think!!!
12. Rack to serving keg with a few gravity points left
13. Close loop transfer.
14. Spund keg (natural carbonation + active scavenging)

Steps 10-14 I've documented fully in the link in my signature.

Sounds like a lot of work, and to some extent it is, but it really does make a huge difference when it's all done right. Iit's a weak link process so it's very difficult to cherry pick just certain parts.

Long version: http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/brewing-methods/low-oxygen-review/

 

[eric19312]

In a nutshell...

1. Crush grain immediately before using.
2. Purge mash tun with inert gas from bottom.
3. Pre-boil mash water. Rapidly chill to strike temp add small dose of sulfites.
4. Underlet mash. Stir once.
5. Mash cap.
6. Recirculate mash with return line beneath surface of liquid.
7. All fittings pressure tested with gas to ensure no venturi effect.
8. Boil gently.
9. Immediately chill, pitch yeast and then oxygenate.
10. Ferment in corny kegs under slight pressure (no oxygen ingress).
11. Water purge serving kegs with flush shortened dip tubes. This is key to getting all the air out of corny keg - there's a lot more than you think!!!
12. Rack to serving keg with a few gravity points left
13. Close loop transfer.
14. Spund keg (natural carbonation + active scavenging)

Steps 10-14 I've documented fully in the link in my signature.

Sounds like a lot of work, and to some extent it is, but it really does make a huge difference when it's all done right. Iit's a weak link process so it's very difficult to cherry pick just certain parts.

Long version: http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/brewing-methods/low-oxygen-review/

This is just a silly load of crap to hit a new brewer with. It may make a difference. But it is far far away from the RDWHAHB method of making beer that we already know works extremely well. Let him get started there and if he wants to venture into that particular vein of craziness it won't be hard to find.

 

[schematix]

This is just a silly load of crap to hit a new brewer with. It may make a difference. But it is far far away from the RDWHAHB method of making beer that we already know works extremely well. Let him get started there and if he wants to venture into that particular vein of craziness it won't be hard to find.

Your opinion. I just answered his question as directly as possible.

Gotta start somewhere, and simple is good, but all these RDWHAHB people trying to ignore reality aren't doing anyone any favors. I wish someone had told me when i was a new brewer how important avoiding oxidation was. Oxidation doesn't make undrinkable beer, but there is an amazing difference when you get the low oxygen part right.

 

[Rhaop]

[emoji23]

 

[eric19312]

Your opinion. I just answered his question as directly as possible.

Gotta start somewhere, and simple is good, but all these RDWHAHB people trying to ignore reality aren't doing anyone any favors. I wish someone had told me when i was a new brewer how important avoiding oxidation was. Oxidation doesn't make undrinkable beer, but there is an amazing difference when you get the low oxygen part right.

Fair enough. I do many of the things you do and also think I make pretty good beer. I've been reading the threads and the site with interest and may give more of them a try. I'm also interested in the open fermenter techniques that are apparently the secret to making great British style ales. Have you tried combining the techniques? Maybe flood a room with CO2 with an open fermenter in the middle?

 

[slym2none]

Your opinion. I just answered his question as directly as possible.

Gotta start somewhere, and simple is good, but all these RDWHAHB people trying to ignore reality aren't doing anyone any favors. I wish someone had told me when i was a new brewer how important avoiding oxidation was. Oxidation doesn't make undrinkable beer, but there is an amazing difference when you get the low oxygen part right.

Your opinion.

See how that works?

 

[MaryB]

And for the average home brewer totally unnecessary. We are not a commercial brewery making product that might sit on a shelf for 6 months.

And I bet the difference in taste is negligible.

I ferment in my bottling buckets(yeast cake never reaches height of the spigot), I wash my kegs flush the sanitizer out with CO2 and leave pressurized until needed. At which point i bleed off the pressure, remove the lid and use a piece of vinyl tubing to fill keg from the fermenting bucket. ZERO oxidized flavor in my beer.

And a test was done on this http://brulosophy.com/2016/12/19/po...normal-vs-high-oxidation-exbeeriment-results/ nobody could pick the beer as being oxidized after 4 weeks in the keg. Most of my beers do not last 4 weeks in the keg, they are gone in 2-3 with friends filling growlers...

In a nutshell...

1. Crush grain immediately before using.
2. Purge mash tun with inert gas from bottom.
3. Pre-boil mash water. Rapidly chill to strike temp add small dose of sulfites.
4. Underlet mash. Stir once.
5. Mash cap.
6. Recirculate mash with return line beneath surface of liquid.
7. All fittings pressure tested with gas to ensure no venturi effect.
8. Boil gently.
9. Immediately chill, pitch yeast and then oxygenate.
10. Ferment in corny kegs under slight pressure (no oxygen ingress).
11. Water purge serving kegs with flush shortened dip tubes. This is key to getting all the air out of corny keg - there's a lot more than you think!!!
12. Rack to serving keg with a few gravity points left
13. Close loop transfer.
14. Spund keg (natural carbonation + active scavenging)

Steps 10-14 I've documented fully in the link in my signature.

Sounds like a lot of work, and to some extent it is, but it really does make a huge difference when it's all done right. Iit's a weak link process so it's very difficult to cherry pick just certain parts.

Long version: http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/brewing-methods/low-oxygen-review/

 

[RM-MN]

Consider for a moment that air is about 200,000 ppm oxygen.

Also realize that high quality commercial breweries typically target around 0.2 ppm oxygen in the bottle. They do this because above this amount there is a noticeable impact on flavor.

Also consider that the diffusion rate of oxygen from the atmosphere is on the order of several ppm/hr.

Then also realize you racked a beer from a semi-permeable plastic bucket with porous o-rings after fermentation had been finished for days to weeks, into another bucket filled with air, where you exposed it for at least 15 minutes while it racked....

So yah, if you used a bottling bucket you already lost the oxidation game. Doesn't mean the beer will be terrible, but don't think for a second your beer won't be oxidized.

I must really like oxidized beer because I don't try very hard to eliminate oxygen and my darker beers are far above any commercial beer I have tasted after a year in the bottle, with the exception of those where hop flavor/aroma are important. Those are best drunk within the first 3 to 4 months although they are pretty darned good after a year too if there are any left by then.

 

[schematix]

And for the average home brewer totally unnecessary. We are not a commercial brewery making product that might sit on a shelf for 6 months.

And I bet the difference in taste is negligible.

I would gladly wager with you. It's not even close to negligible. That's why pro brewers do it, and above average home brewers have figured it out too.

I would agree though that the *average* home brewer is probably going to have a hard time with it. But that doesn't mean an average home brewer has to be average forever.

And a test was done on this http://brulosophy.com/2016/12/19/po...normal-vs-high-oxidation-exbeeriment-results/ nobody could pick the beer as being oxidized after 4 weeks in the keg. Most of my beers do not last 4 weeks in the keg, they are gone in 2-3 with friends filling growlers...

Brulosphy should never be quoted as evidence of anything. It's the home brewing equivalent to Mythbusters. Entertainment value only. The writers themselves say as much.

Both of the beers in their experiment were oxidized so no surprise no difference was detected. It's an extremely small amount of oxygen that puts you over the threshold. Once you exceed the threshold it doesn't matter how far you exceed it to a point.

There's a good thread going on right now about Brulosphy that discusses the merits and shortcomings.

I must really like oxidized beer because I don't try very hard to eliminate oxygen and my darker beers are far above any commercial beer I have tasted after a year in the bottle, with the exception of those where hop flavor/aroma are important. Those are best drunk within the first 3 to 4 months although they are pretty darned good after a year too if there are any left by then.

It's actually quite possible you have learned to enjoy oxidized beer. Nothing wrong with that.

I think you're all missing my point here though. If you think your oxidized beers are good, you'd be blown away how good they are when they aren't oxidized. It's a step level improvement in the beer quality on the same level as fermentation temperature control.

 

[Jako]

I'm concerned if you added double priming sugar and did not wait for first priming sugar to ferment out you may has seriously over carbed. If you didn't add more priming sugar at bottling you may have under carbed because while you were getting caps the yeast were working...That is issue too...But if you did add priming sugar both when you made the original mistake and again when you capped and didn't wait long enough for first dose of priming sugar to ferment out you could have explosive situation...If that is possibly the case please keep the bottles somewhere that an explosion won't hurt anybody for a couple weeks until you get a chance to check carbonation level.

i only added sugar once. once i read your original post i thought about waiting the 3 days but decided to bottle the next morning as soon as possible so i wouldn't have to bottle during the work week.

 

[Jako]

In a nutshell...

1. Crush grain immediately before using.
2. Purge mash tun with inert gas from bottom.
3. Pre-boil mash water. Rapidly chill to strike temp add small dose of sulfites.
4. Underlet mash. Stir once.
5. Mash cap.
6. Recirculate mash with return line beneath surface of liquid.
7. All fittings pressure tested with gas to ensure no venturi effect.
8. Boil gently.
9. Immediately chill, pitch yeast and then oxygenate.
10. Ferment in corny kegs under slight pressure (no oxygen ingress).
11. Water purge serving kegs with flush shortened dip tubes. This is key to getting all the air out of corny keg - there's a lot more than you think!!!
12. Rack to serving keg with a few gravity points left
13. Close loop transfer.
14. Spund keg (natural carbonation + active scavenging)

Steps 10-14 I've documented fully in the link in my signature.

Sounds like a lot of work, and to some extent it is, but it really does make a huge difference when it's all done right. Iit's a weak link process so it's very difficult to cherry pick just certain parts.

Long version: http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/brewing-methods/low-oxygen-review/

thanks for the advice i will add this to my list to read.

 

[jodell]

I would gladly wager with you. It's not even close to negligible. That's why pro brewers do it, and above average home brewers have figured it out too.

I would agree though that the *average* home brewer is probably going to have a hard time with it. But that doesn't mean an average home brewer has to be average forever.




Brulosphy should never be quoted as evidence of anything. It's the home brewing equivalent to Mythbusters. Entertainment value only. The writers themselves say as much.

Both of the beers in their experiment were oxidized so no surprise no difference was detected. It's an extremely small amount of oxygen that puts you over the threshold. Once you exceed the threshold it doesn't matter how far you exceed it to a point.

There's a good thread going on right now about Brulosphy that discusses the merits and shortcomings.




It's actually quite possible you have learned to enjoy oxidized beer. Nothing wrong with that.

I think you're all missing my point here though. If you think your oxidized beers are good, you'd be blown away how good they are when they aren't oxidized. It's a step level improvement in the beer quality on the same level as fermentation temperature control.

You have this idea thought that you can't make great beer unless you do to do which is false. Loads of excellent beer is made without Lodo and loads of crap beer is made with Lodo. So sorry but you shouldn't post on a thread about how only good brewers use Lodo methods and how you're method is superior when the original question was about a priming sugar mistake