Shank length?

[BirdmanBrewingCo]

We actually stopped selling anything except 4-1/8" shanks, because 99% of shanks we sold were that length. We were carrying inventory on other sizes that almost never sold. Now, we occasionally get the special order request, which we happily filled, but they were few and far between. https://www.birdmanbrewing.com/categories/Shanks/

And we second the accuflex bevseal ultra tubing to keep off flavors out, but don't scrimp...just use the JG pushfit fittings. it makes installing so much easier, and cleaner. https://www.birdmanbrewing.com/tubing/

 

[BirdmanBrewingCo]

Here's a video of how easy it is to install.

 

[mongoose33]

I'm going to add a pic just so people looking at this issue know exactly what they can and can't have as thickness for a collar through which they're running a shank.

This is using a 4" shank through a collar that is just a shade over 2 5/8" thick. It's about as thick as you can go, unless you either drill a recessed hole for the shank nut, or use two washers instead of just one inside the tailpiece nut.

 

[Tobor_8thMan]

Began cutting the wood for the collar on Saturday. Had to recall the correct way to mitre corners. LOL Will glue the outer wood and clamp on Sunday. Also purchased a nice set of Forstner bits for drilling the holes. I didn't know these bits existed. I've always used a wood spade bit and just dealt with the splintering.

Things are progressing...

 

[mongoose33]

Began cutting the wood for the collar on Saturday. Had to recall the correct way to mitre corners. LOL Will glue the outer wood and clamp on Sunday. Also purchased a nice set of Forstner bits for drilling the holes. I didn't know these bits existed. I've always used a wood spade bit and just dealt with the splintering.

Things are progressing...

You're already past this, but for general info, there are spade bits that have a sharp point on the edges (like this), and if you go slow at the outset, you can get past the point where you'll create a lot of splintering. When I do mine, I first drill a pilot hole then drill from both sides.

One thing to remember is there's a plastic flange/ferrule that dresses up the front of the faucet and covers the shank hole. Even if there's a little splintering, it'll be covered up by that piece.

Such as in this pic:

 

[odie]

I went with long shanks cause I was wanting them to protrude the inner linner, but since I build a recessed box around the shanks it's kinda irrelevant...I'm kinda thinking going to short shanks and just stuffing the box area with some loose fill (or not and let the cold fully envelop the shanks)

but what I do notice is that some of my long shanks are completely hollow (holds more beer) and some are solid(not pictured) with only a 3/16 ish hole thru the center length...pros/cons of either?

 

[IslandLizard]

but what I do notice is that some of my long shanks are completely hollow (holds more beer) and some are solid(not pictured) with only a 3/16 ish hole thru the center length...pros/cons of either?

I've never seen hollow shanks, but that's definitely not an advantage, IMO. I'm pretty sure they will cause turbulation and thus foaming. How did you end up with a mix of the 2 kinds?

Mine are 3/16" bore throughout, and only 4 1/8" long.

 

[tll77]

I would expect a difference in line balancing for these shanks. Typically the bore of the shank is matched to the ID of the beer line feeding it, such as the not pictured shanks.
Also, does the washer seal okay under the tailpiece nut?

 

[odie]

I bought faucets with shanks and then as the door assembly progressed I wanted longer shanks to penetrate the inner door panel so that the nipple/nut was on the outside. I was gonna make a small plate from the liner material and make 3 holes, stuff the recessed box with insulation and then slide the plate over the shanks an tape/seal it for a finished interior panel and I could easily remove the lines from the shanks for cleaning as needed...

but I think I'm gonna leave the inner panel open as you see it...

yeah, I don't like the hollow shanks much...i feel that as much beer as possible should remain inside the keg until serving...long lines don't help but I guess a necessary evil for a proper pour? I've never understood the physics behind the beer line length theory. Is it an issue of resistance to flow? longer fluid lines I believe will increase resistance to flow, like electricity, but we are only talking a few feet, not hundreds.

 

[tll77]

Is it an issue of resistance to flow?

yes, and when the narrow line widens to the bore of the shank, resistance will decrease giving a lower total line resistance in the system.

And, I agree with you to leave the panel open, let the cold air envelop the shanks.

 

[odie]

Well, the short shanks that came with my "intertaps"...not genuine but same design...and those shanks were hollow too, apparently for the auto close spring. The longer shanks I bought were solid but would not accommodate the spring. Obviously only the shank only needs to be hollow for the length of the spring but is not the case for the shanks I got...

with the open shanks, how do you think this will affect the recommended length of 3/16 beer line for line balancing? longer, shorter, or now irrelevant?

 

[day_trippr]

If anything I suppose one might need a few inches more beer line to account for the blown-out shank ID but honestly the bigger question would be whether the shank induces CO2 breakout via turbulence. You're definitely not going to maintain a laminar flow entering the shank...

Cheers!

 

[odie]

well going to intertap website answered some questions....their long shank schematic shows the hollow spring area and then a narrow hole for the balance of the length...so any faucet that incorporates an internal spring is going to have a hollow area, I don't think the length of the hollow section really matters much, any turbulence will probably occur as the transition point to a larger diameter, I guess really the sharp edge, after that point it's a smooth tube again until it reaches the spring and then finally enters the faucet's chamber...but then again, a solid shank you will still have a change in diameter as the beer reaches the faucet chamber.

maybe I should have bought FCs for my project. but those don't allow the internal return spring which I kinda like...my last kegger would sometimes stick open a little and spill beer...but that was also 20 years ago when there wasn't perlicks, intertaps, FCs, etc...just the old school back sealing ones

In the end, it's really all theory until I run my first keg thru it...hopefully late next week...got an IPA fermenting

 

[IslandLizard]

In the end, it's really all theory until I run my first keg thru it...hopefully late next week...got an IPA fermenting

Let us know how well they work. What kind of line and length?

 

[odie]

well tapped my first keg in years...poured just fine with those hollow shanks...well just fine IMO...nothing really to compare it to at the moment...maybe just got lucky..lol

Sierra Nevada pale ale clone...nothing special...

force carbed at around 30 over night in the fridge...then dropped to 10-12 for a couple days...poured at 10-12

no foam...good clean pour it seems...3/16 lines 6 ft and a long hollow shank. intertaps with the spring inside for positive closing (thus the hollow shank)