Second BIAB....scratching head...why don't more do this?

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I've tried BIAB a few times and wasn't impressed with having sticky wort dripping on the garage floor everywhere. I still use it for small stove top batches. But ultimately it came down to my 3-vessel gravity-fed cooler setup works well for me. If it isn't broke don't fix it.

If you're dripping all over everywhere, then you're doing it wrong... no matter what process you're using. :D

Brew on :mug:
 
I've got a friend who is a great guy and pretty good home brewer. For whatever reason he doesn't see BIAB as all grain though. I did a few BIAB brews and shared the resulting beers with him, which he seemed to like. Then he asked if I wanted to brew with him and get an idea of what it is like brewing all grain. I didn't care to correct him and explain that I didn't use any extract, which he already knew. I just thought it was funny that he doesn't consider BIAB to be real all grain brewing apparently. Maybe he just wants a quicker way of specifying traditional mashing and lautering and doesn't mean to imply BIAB is a lesser method, but he's done it a couple of times.

I've brewed with him a few times and he has a really nice setup with a controller, pump and RIMS heater. It is pretty cool to brew with him, but the beer doesn't really turn out any better.
 
If you're dripping all over everywhere, then you're doing it wrong... no matter what process you're using. :D

Brew on :mug:

I'd be willing to give it another shot. How do you remove the bag from the kettle with out it dripping? Even letting it hang above the kettle for a 15 min, the bag was still dripping (on the floor and burner) as I placed it into a bucket. Also placing the bag into a 5-6 bucket causes drips down the outside of the bucket as the bag is squeezed into the bucket.

Was I doing the BIAB method wrong, possibly. My method works very well for me, and I have no desire to try to figure out the "right" way. Using my 3-vessels, I have no drips. I remove the hose from the upper container and let it drain into the lower vessel. Then pick up the hose with both ends in hand (no drips). I can then set them in a bucket of water to rinse them out.

Plus I can finish a batch sparge day in ~3.5-4 hours including clean up (barring familial distractions). Quick enough for my schedule. No need to change.
 
I'd be willing to give it another shot. How do you remove the bag from the kettle with out it dripping? Even letting it hang above the kettle for a 15 min, the bag was still dripping (on the floor and burner) as I placed it into a bucket. Also placing the bag into a 5-6 bucket causes drips down the outside of the bucket as the bag is squeezed into the bucket.

Was I doing the BIAB method wrong, possibly. My method works very well for me, and I have no desire to try to figure out the "right" way. Using my 3-vessels, I have no drips. I remove the hose from the upper container and let it drain into the lower vessel. Then pick up the hose with both ends in hand (no drips). I can then set them in a bucket of water to rinse them out.

Plus I can finish a batch sparge day in ~3.5-4 hours including clean up (barring familial distractions). Quick enough for my schedule. No need to change.

I put my bag in a steaming basket and lift that, keeps it all contained, and dripping strait down, I have used a colander before I did the strainer and that helped a lot, but I never had a lot of stuff running and hitting the floor and burner, I wonder just how narrow your brew pot is.
 
I've got a friend who is a great guy and pretty good home brewer. For whatever reason he doesn't see BIAB as all grain though. I did a few BIAB brews and shared the resulting beers with him, which he seemed to like. Then he asked if I wanted to brew with him and get an idea of what it is like brewing all grain. I didn't care to correct him and explain that I didn't use any extract, which he already knew. I just thought it was funny that he doesn't consider BIAB to be real all grain brewing apparently. Maybe he just wants a quicker way of specifying traditional mashing and lautering and doesn't mean to imply BIAB is a lesser method, but he's done it a couple of times.

I've brewed with him a few times and he has a really nice setup with a controller, pump and RIMS heater. It is pretty cool to brew with him, but the beer doesn't really turn out any better.

having such a setup, why would he BIAB, sounds like he has one of those over the hill setups designed to be mini professional setups. I know of a few guys like that and they go all the way to brew just like the big guys. More power to them, and to their credit card limits. I used to do 3 vessel brewing but switched after selling my 15 gallon system and and setting up a 5 gallon setup. I decided that 2 vessels can do just what 3 vessels can do if I just modify the system. So am I doing a true BIAB, no because I use a HLT for sparging, but does that mean I am not doing a BIAB system? No because the concept is the same, I have eliminated the need for a dedicated mas tun and boil in the pot I mash in.

Your buddy just needs to relax a bit, he probably does realize you are doing a true all grain brew, he just wants to show off his mega system.

It is all good
it is just a hobby
 
I'd be willing to give it another shot. How do you remove the bag from the kettle with out it dripping? Even letting it hang above the kettle for a 15 min, the bag was still dripping (on the floor and burner) as I placed it into a bucket. Also placing the bag into a 5-6 bucket causes drips down the outside of the bucket as the bag is squeezed into the bucket.

Was I doing the BIAB method wrong, possibly. My method works very well for me, and I have no desire to try to figure out the "right" way. Using my 3-vessels, I have no drips. I remove the hose from the upper container and let it drain into the lower vessel. Then pick up the hose with both ends in hand (no drips). I can then set them in a bucket of water to rinse them out.

Plus I can finish a batch sparge day in ~3.5-4 hours including clean up (barring familial distractions). Quick enough for my schedule. No need to change.

I suspend the bag over the BK with a pulley system. Then I either squeeze the suspended bag, or place a large colander on top of the BK, drop the bag into the colander, and then squeeze. Colander is large enough diameter so that the bag does not hang over the edge. After sufficient squeezing, the bag doesn't drip spontaneously. I use silicone gloves when squeezing for heat and "sticky" protection.

If you don't want to squeeze to the point of no dripping, then you can hoist with a pulley, slide a large diameter plastic bucket/bin under the bag, and then lower the bag into the container, so that wort doesn't get squeezed out by the sides of the container. As you mention, a typical 5 gallon bucket isn't adequate for this task (unless you have a small bag.)

There is no such thing as a universal "best brewing process." Everyone's needs, constraints and desires are different, so they need to decide for themselves what is best for them. I don't think anyone who is happy with their brewing process should change it. I also don't think people should disparage a process they don't know how to conduct well, just because they had issues for which there are known solutions. I do advocate that extract brewers wishing to upgrade to, or new brewers wishing to start out with, partial mash or all grain, start with BIAB, since it has a lower cost of entry than a traditional three vessel system. If they don't like BIAB for any reason they can move on to a more traditional AG process, and the only sunk costs are the bag (unless they continue to use it in their MLT), and maybe a pulley. Starting with three vessel and then moving to BIAB involves more sunk costs.

Brew on :mug:
 
I put my bag in a steaming basket and lift that, keeps it all contained, and dripping strait down, I have used a colander before I did the strainer and that helped a lot, but I never had a lot of stuff running and hitting the floor and burner, I wonder just how narrow your brew pot is.

That could work to keep it in shape as it goes into another container. It adds one more piece of equipment that I don't normally need and one more reason for me not to do it.
 
I'd be willing to give it another shot. How do you remove the bag from the kettle with out it dripping? Even letting it hang above the kettle for a 15 min, the bag was still dripping (on the floor and burner) as I placed it into a bucket. Also placing the bag into a 5-6 bucket causes drips down the outside of the bucket as the bag is squeezed into the bucket.

Was I doing the BIAB method wrong, possibly. My method works very well for me, and I have no desire to try to figure out the "right" way. Using my 3-vessels, I have no drips. I remove the hose from the upper container and let it drain into the lower vessel. Then pick up the hose with both ends in hand (no drips). I can then set them in a bucket of water to rinse them out.

Plus I can finish a batch sparge day in ~3.5-4 hours including clean up (barring familial distractions). Quick enough for my schedule. No need to change.


A well fitting, well shaped bag can make a big difference imo.

A square bag from the lhbs that is too large will form two lumps at the bottom and drip from two corners, one in and one outside the kettle.

If you look at my avatar, I prefer a round bottom tear drop shaped bag, the wort will run out of the bottom in a single stream into the center of the kettle, no mess no fuss.


A ratchet pulley makes for easy bag handling.
Fwiw, I'm not a fan of steamer baskets, never had a need to use the one I have.

Apologize for the sales pitch.

Thanks
 
I suspend the bag over the BK with a pulley system. Then I either squeeze the suspended bag, or place a large colander on top of the BK, drop the bag into the colander, and then squeeze. Colander is large enough diameter so that the bag does not hang over the edge. After sufficient squeezing, the bag doesn't drip spontaneously. I use silicone gloves when squeezing for heat and "sticky" protection.

If you don't want to squeeze to the point of no dripping, then you can hoist with a pulley, slide a large diameter plastic bucket/bin under the bag, and then lower the bag into the container, so that wort doesn't get squeezed out by the sides of the container. As you mention, a typical 5 gallon bucket isn't adequate for this task (unless you have a small bag.)

There is no such thing as a universal "best brewing process." Everyone's needs, constraints and desires are different, so they need to decide for themselves what is best for them. I don't think anyone who is happy with their brewing process should change it. I also don't think people should disparage a process they don't know how to conduct well, just because they had issues for which there are known solutions. I do advocate that extract brewers wishing to upgrade to, or new brewers wishing to start out with, partial mash or all grain, start with BIAB, since it has a lower cost of entry than a traditional three vessel system. If they don't like BIAB for any reason they can move on to a more traditional AG process, and the only sunk costs are the bag (unless they continue to use it in their MLT), and maybe a pulley. Starting with three vessel and then moving to BIAB involves more sunk costs.

Brew on :mug:

I didn't have a pulley but I tied the bag shut and hung it on a hook above the kettle. I tied the rope so it was just a few inches above the kettle rim. That was fine with out dripping and splashing. I don't have heat-resistant, water proof gloves, so I'm wasn't squeezing the bag. And didn't have a larger diameter bucket that I could slide underneath. I just unhooked it and tried setting it in to the bucket.

My intent was to disparage BIAB, just a response to why I don't do it as asked by the author. Alot of the complaints about 2- and 3- vessel systems are easily overcome with known solutions.

For new brewers, I explain the different options and let them decide what way they want to go. I willingly lend out extra equipment (and sometimes my main setup) to new brewers to see if the style suits them. I started with 2 "dedicated" vessels. Just used spare parts and an old 5-gal drink cooler so only cost was a brew kettle and burner. I used a brew bucket to hold/transfer sparge water. Simultaneously pasteurizing the fermentor and emptying the kettle. Still used star san afterwards, just and added benefit.

And one many more reasons "...why don't more do this? ", I have good equipment that would be sunk costs if I switched. Plus needing to rework my established recipes to adapt to the new setup. People are less likely to switch their practices, if it isn't an easy transition. For me, it wasn't and I lost interest in perusing it further.
 
A well fitting, well shaped bag can make a big difference imo.

A square bag from the lhbs that is too large will form two lumps at the bottom and drip from two corners, one in and one outside the kettle.

If you look at my avatar, I prefer a round bottom tear drop shaped bag, the wort will run out of the bottom in a single stream into the center of the kettle, no mess no fuss.


A ratchet pulley makes for easy bag handling.
Fwiw, I'm not a fan of steamer baskets, never had a need to use the one I have.

Apologize for the sales pitch.

Thanks

The bag I used was rounded like the ones you sell. It is actually a 5 gallon paint strainer bag. Tried it on 2.5 gallon batch, so figured it might work for a 5.5 gallon batch. If I liked it, I would have gotten a better bag.

I had it hanging from the ceiling and dripping in to the kettle. It was when I tried to move it away from the kettle that it dripped everywhere. I could have gotten a larger container, but it didn't catch my interest. Too many pieces of equipment to purchase to switch, too many pieces of equipment that would collect dust, reworking established house recipes, trying to figure out "right" way of BIAB without making a mess. That's why I don't BIAB.

I've considered going electric indoors and I might do a BIAB system then. But that is low down on my brewery to-do list.
 
Yes I understand, once you get skilled in a method change can come hard.

Fwiw, if the bag is still dripping, I leave it hanging over the kettle, that's beer my friend :)

Then when removing / disposing of the bag, best to have a larger container, like a round rope tub, or a square Rubbermaid storage bin. A 5 gallon bucket is not typically large enough to drop a spent BIAB grain bill in without spilling. With a large enough container right next to the kettle, the bag can be transferred to the larger tote / bin without spilling a drop.

As I said above. It's all about "bag management".
 
having such a setup, why would he BIAB, sounds like he has one of those over the hill setups designed to be mini professional setups. I know of a few guys like that and they go all the way to brew just like the big guys. More power to them, and to their credit card limits. I used to do 3 vessel brewing but switched after selling my 15 gallon system and and setting up a 5 gallon setup. I decided that 2 vessels can do just what 3 vessels can do if I just modify the system. So am I doing a true BIAB, no because I use a HLT for sparging, but does that mean I am not doing a BIAB system? No because the concept is the same, I have eliminated the need for a dedicated mas tun and boil in the pot I mash in.

Your buddy just needs to relax a bit, he probably does realize you are doing a true all grain brew, he just wants to show off his mega system.

It is all good
it is just a hobby

even the "big guys" are starting to see the benefits of BIAB. There are systems now that can brew 10 bbl and up at a time. Less space, less parts same product.
 
even the "big guys" are starting to see the benefits of BIAB. There are systems now that can brew 10 bbl and up at a time. Less space, less parts same product.

it only makes sense till you get to a certain size, I have made the switch because of the cost savings in equipment
 
reworking established house recipes

This is the only part of your statement, I don't understand. Why do you feel you would need to rework recipes? As far as I know, the recipes would be the same. Crush might need to change.
 
This is the only part of your statement, I don't understand. Why do you feel you would need to rework recipes? As far as I know, the recipes would be the same. Crush might need to change.

Any time you change equipment or process it is going to affect the resulting beer, just by the differences in geometries, thermal insulation, grain: water ratios, efficiency, and, numerous other things that are even less obvious. There may be no perceived differences between the two setups. I like the recipes the way they are, and without testing would I be able to keep them there.

Like I've mentioned before, I tried it out. I didn't perceive it was going to be a simple switch or provide enough benefit for me to change. Luckily this is a diverse hobby that accommodates many styles and preferences.:ban:
 
Any time you change equipment or process it is going to affect the resulting beer, just by the differences in geometries, thermal insulation, grain: water ratios, efficiency, and, numerous other things that are even less obvious. There may be no perceived differences between the two setups. I like the recipes the way they are, and without testing would I be able to keep them there.

Like I've mentioned before, I tried it out. I didn't perceive it was going to be a simple switch or provide enough benefit for me to change. Luckily this is a diverse hobby that accommodates many styles and preferences.:ban:

well from personal real world experience I will agree with you that the recipes need be changed particularly for efficiencies, boil off rates etc. it took a little dialing in but my beer never tasted terribly different Id say. I still use the recipes I used before with the same results but yes youll need to adjust somethings to get the same amount and hit the same numbers. Isnt that hard once you find the average efficienty of your system though and even then like I said I can remember brewing anything that was waayyyy different tasting that what I had done before. Still all that said do what ya want how you want. I know I'm not trying to change the way anyone wants to make their beer. I think most of us using the BIAB type method are just saying most of the reasons people come up with to NOT do it that way are easily corrected or worked around etc. I was very used to how I made my beer with my old cooler kettles gas setup. I made hella good beer with it like I said and really feel I had mastered that equipment. Changing to electric BIAB initially was somewhat frustrating but also fun as I learned a new way to do it.
 
I think most of us using the BIAB type method are just saying most of the reasons people come up with to NOT do it that way are easily corrected or worked around etc.

Other than having less equipment, all the reasons to switch can easily be corrected on a 2- and 3-vessel systems. Which I see as no benefit because I have the equipment already.

Most of my lag time wasn't lautering, it was heating and cooling. I built a windscreen around my burner and a kettle skirt out of aluminum flashing. It cut my heating time down significantly. I cool be circulating 2-3 gallons through my IC using a 50-quart cooler of ice and a large pond pump. I can get to pitching temps in 10 min and lager pitching temps in 20 minutes.

The speed benefits people claim for BIAB seem to be based in lautering speed. It only takes about 10 minutes to drain my tun. Plus if I do full volume BIAB, my heating time is doubled, since I have to wait for the full volume to come to temp before I mash. I only am waiting for half to heat before I mash. The sparge is heating while I mash so time is saved through the magic of concurrent tasks.

I've tried it, I find it easier to dump the tun in the compost and spray with a hose, than rinse a bag of grain. Cleanup wasn't easier for me.

I think it odd how many people in this thread don't want step on others prefences, but still question someone's reasons for not following someone else's practices. All I've stated is my personal opinions, there may be easy work arounds for those reasons, but they still require additional work that I don't see benefits that would balance out compared to my current practices.
 
I've used my kit for ten or so years refining my process along the way, I spend pretty much no time babysitting it, and it produces a consistent product, so I would only lose by upsetting that apple cart. Were I starting now, I'd likely buy a 30 gallon kettle and a wilser bag and have at it.
 
Lump42, I could see if I started with a 3 vessel system, got good beer, had a routine, how I probably wouldn't change. With only 12 batches under my belt, 7 of which are BIAB, I have made my share of messes, but now that I took 30 seconds to sink a spare hardware ring into the top of my garage door, I'm happy with wilserbrewers method and bags. Easy to manage, repeatable efficiencies, and minimal equipment to clean and manage. I do find that us BIAB'errs need to work a bit to ensure uniform temp during the mash, but this is doable.

Even though I'm new, my consumption of so many podcasts, books, etc, tells me that mash temp is important, keeping uniformity as well via mixing...but for the most part, how you mash seems to be typically proven as less critical unless you are bought into the LODO stuff. (I'm in the wait and see crowd). So, to each his/her own. I see unlikely to change my hot side ever, the fewer vessels, the better.
 
I sense a market for a frame that fits on top of a kettle and can accommodate the pulley.
A desire, yes, a market, probably not - too many pot sizes, and too expensive to make custom every time. But it's the way I made my BIAB system, so that it's portable - I like to to group brews, and I teach homebrewing, so I needed a pulley system that didn't depend on a garage beam to hold the pulley.

In the background is my 3-vessel two tier. I like brewing, and I like the flexibility of multiple systems, and I have a space big enough to accommodate that desire.

IMG_20170416_062705826[1].jpg
 
There is false info on this thread.

BIAB doesn't make a "hot sticky mess" that I've heard over and over
I brew indoors in my kitchen. You hoist the bag,let it drain for a bit and transfer the bag to a 5 gallon bucket next to the pot.

If I get 2 drips its a lot and that's with 22 pounds of grain in a 12 gallon batch.

Also I've read its no good for a double batch. Again totally false. All I do is brew 12 gallon batches and it works perfectly fine. A gallon of water which is what the grain absorbs weighs 8 pounds so that would bring the bag to around 30 pounds. I suppose if you cant move 30 pounds that would be an issue but then again a 5 gallon bucket of beer weighs around 40 pounds so if you can move your fermenter you can LOWER the bag into a bucket.

If your not into BIAB that's fine but enough with the "hot sticky mess" nonsense.

I brew in my nice kitchen and wouldn't ruin it over brewing beer...

BIAB makes awesome beer with almost no equipment and a super easy cleanup
 
A desire, yes, a market, probably not - too many pot sizes, and too expensive to make custom every time. But it's the way I made my BIAB system, so that it's portable - I like to to group brews, and I teach homebrewing, so I needed a pulley system that didn't depend on a garage beam to hold the pulley.

In the background is my 3-vessel two tier. I like brewing, and I like the flexibility of multiple systems, and I have a space big enough to accommodate that desire.

Actually, not that hard to make a model that accommodates different kettle sizes.

Your design would allow a bolt through the top so the unit would mostly fold together. The sleeves you have on top could be adjustable to kettle size. The only difficult part would be the cross-member on the bottom to provide rigidity. You could have a curved section with slots at different lengths to bolt onto the legs to accommodate different kettle sizes.

Not sure there's much of a market though....
 
There is false info on this thread.

BIAB does make a "hot sticky mess" that I've heard over and over


I never stated that BIAB causes sticky messes, but that it caused a sticky mess for me. That among other reasons were what kept me from switching. That was our experience not a fact of the system.
 
I have to agree with Lump

I know guys who make a mess with a 3 vessel system, it is up to the individual and his equipment

I hate messes but if I change something, there is the opportunity for one to arrive until I have the experience not to create it

Lump was posting his experience and if he thinks it is a messy project he already has a neat process, then that is his opinion, we have to value his advice.

The reason I use a basket is to cut down on mess, I just do not want one to happen. So I started using the basket on the first BIAB
 
Sure, both sides of the isle (BIAB makes a mess...BIAB doesn't make a mess) have merit. The first BIAB I did I pulleyed the bag too high above the kettle rim and wort went all over my kettle, burner and floor. Next batch I adjusted the height I lift my bag with the pulley and it worked fine. Sometimes it takes a time or two around the block to learn where the speed bumps are.

I like Wilser's comment that anyone should have tried BIAB before critiquing or weighing in. Otherwise it is like asking a virgin for sex advice. I could say I don't want to do 3V because of the cleanup. How would I genuinely know this if I have never done 3V and had to actually do a cleanup?
 
I am a new brewer. I started last month and did 2 extract brew days. As I was researching this hobby, I did not think I would do all grain due to increased equipment complexity, cost and it looked more confusing. Then I read about BIAB.

I just completed my second BIAB batch this past weekend. It could not be easier. I think it is less of a hassle than extract with steeping grains to be honest. And having just tasted my first batch yesterday it tastes better and has better color than my extract brews I made prior. Very happy I found this forum and this technique. I do not see any reason at this time to move to 3 vessel and plan on sticking with BIAB.
 
I am a new brewer. I started last month and did 2 extract brew days. As I was researching this hobby, I did not think I would do all grain due to increased equipment complexity, cost and it looked more confusing. Then I read about BIAB.

I just completed my second BIAB batch this past weekend. It could not be easier. I think it is less of a hassle than extract with steeping grains to be honest. And having just tasted my first batch yesterday it tastes better and has better color than my extract brews I made prior. Very happy I found this forum and this technique. I do not see any reason at this time to move to 3 vessel and plan on sticking with BIAB.

This was my experience too. 3 batches extract, did not like the beer I was brewing, found HBT and BIAB. Went the BIAB route. A year later, I have streamlined and pimped out my BIAB system and see no reason whatsoever to go 3 vessel.
 
I am a new brewer. I started last month and did 2 extract brew days. As I was researching this hobby, I did not think I would do all grain due to increased equipment complexity, cost and it looked more confusing. Then I read about BIAB.

I just completed my second BIAB batch this past weekend. It could not be easier. I think it is less of a hassle than extract with steeping grains to be honest. And having just tasted my first batch yesterday it tastes better and has better color than my extract brews I made prior. Very happy I found this forum and this technique. I do not see any reason at this time to move to 3 vessel and plan on sticking with BIAB.

Agreed, a very straightforward and rewarding process with minimal equipment needed to be successful.
 
Other than having less equipment, all the reasons to switch can easily be corrected on a 2- and 3-vessel systems. Which I see as no benefit because I have the equipment already.

Most of my lag time wasn't lautering, it was heating and cooling. I built a windscreen around my burner and a kettle skirt out of aluminum flashing. It cut my heating time down significantly. I cool be circulating 2-3 gallons through my IC using a 50-quart cooler of ice and a large pond pump. I can get to pitching temps in 10 min and lager pitching temps in 20 minutes.

The speed benefits people claim for BIAB seem to be based in lautering speed. It only takes about 10 minutes to drain my tun. Plus if I do full volume BIAB, my heating time is doubled, since I have to wait for the full volume to come to temp before I mash. I only am waiting for half to heat before I mash. The sparge is heating while I mash so time is saved through the magic of concurrent tasks.

I've tried it, I find it easier to dump the tun in the compost and spray with a hose, than rinse a bag of grain. Cleanup wasn't easier for me.

I think it odd how many people in this thread don't want step on others prefences, but still question someone's reasons for not following someone else's practices. All I've stated is my personal opinions, there may be easy work arounds for those reasons, but they still require additional work that I don't see benefits that would balance out compared to my current practices.

Many of the things you mention here I simply don't have to do in MY case. Im all electric inside my house. I couldn't fit a 3 vessel system where I am brewing although I probably could have set something up somewhere but it would have require a LOT more construction and such inside. In my case I have a hard sided basket not a bag. I move the grain to a plastic tub off my pully, carry the tub outside dump it in the trash hose it off backwards. As for heating its definitely faster using electric. I had a pretty neat shield built for my gas burner as well out of double walled flashing and then insulation. it worked like a charm but electric is definitely faster to heat/boil. Never minding the fact I dont have to go get gas or that its definitely cheaper. The biggest thing I like about the electric is really only the wort gets really hot. Sure the side of the kettle is pretty hot too but nothing like when I used gas. I also have an IC (a hydra) I get 12 gallons from boil to 70 in the summer in about 15 mins or below 65 in about 10 in the winter just using tap water. Ive never tried to go lower since my fermenter has temp control. My biggest time saver was in sparging. If you are sparging traditional then your sparge should take at least 45 mins. Sparging for me is ramping to 168 for about 10 mins now so about 12 mins total. Not everyone does a traditional sparge either though. Again you can do what you want, however you want, but to say there aren't benefits simply isn't true. You just didn't see them doing it the way you did and chose not to do it and guess what.. that's fine with me. There are things I miss about my cooler MLT set up. Honestly sometimes I feel pushed to do things because things happen pretty quick now. No more enjoying a beer and playing guitar etc while I watch my sparge arm work its magic etc. Once things are going theres no "I can stop here" and go get lunch. (usually after the sparge but before the boil in a 3 vessel) Also as I stated before my efficiencies are generally lower. Anytime you do something different theres a learning curve to make it as efficient as possible. When I started with my new system I wasn't saving any time becaseu I was still getting a feel for how things worked how to clean stuff etc. Having had it for a time now Im always thinking ahead like I did when I had a three vessel system and so Im much more "ready to go" so to speak once things are in the fermenter etc.
 
I do BIAB and think it's great. I do 5 gallon batches. Lifting the grain bag isn't as bad for me because I only hold it up over the kettle for a few seconds until that initial rush of wort strains through. Then I simply transfer the bag over a colander inside of a stock pot to allow gravity to handle the rest of the "lautering" process. No way I'd be able to do a 10 gallon batch this way though. Not without a hoist.

The toughest part is nailing down your process for the lautering to make sure you hit your final volume. If you don't squeeze the bag you'll need to adjust your grain/water absorption rate, if you squeeze how much. Different grains affect the amount you are able to squeeze out. For this reason, I adjusted my equipment profile on beersmith. If I am brewing a 5 gallon batch, I corrected for my equipment by adjusting up to a 5.5 gallon output to compensate to ensure I am getting my full 5 gallons and not ending up with 4.5. And if I end up with 5.5 then even better, but not less than 5 :). Every drop counts!
 
I brew 12 gallon batches. I started with a three tier system and decided to give BIAB a try. Now that i have a pulley installed and use proper bags, I'm selling off my 3 tier system. There is no sticky mess, no cleaning extra vessels, pumps, hoses, chillers, etc. I combine no-chill with BIAB so, there is only one big kettle to clean once the beer goes into the conical.

Yes, I lost the sunk cost of the Stainless Steel Mash Tun, pumps, chillers, etc. But, brewing now is a lot less work and a lot less mess and cleanup. That makes it more enjoyable to me. Some people like all of the gadgets, bells and whistles. Some like to simplify the process.

I'm starting to look into setting up some type of electric system, but that is going to require the help of an electrician.
 
I brew 12 gallon batches. I started with a three tier system and decided to give BIAB a try. Now that i have a pulley installed and use proper bags, I'm selling off my 3 tier system. There is no sticky mess, no cleaning extra vessels, pumps, hoses, chillers, etc. I combine no-chill with BIAB so, there is only one big kettle to clean once the beer goes into the conical.

Yes, I lost the sunk cost of the Stainless Steel Mash Tun, pumps, chillers, etc. But, brewing now is a lot less work and a lot less mess and cleanup. That makes it more enjoyable to me. Some people like all of the gadgets, bells and whistles. Some like to simplify the process.

I'm starting to look into setting up some type of electric system, but that is going to require the help of an electrician.

Some of my best batches are simple recipes and simple processes. I have more fun that way too. :mug:
 
I've gone from the orange water cooler 3V system, to full theelectricbrewery.com 3V system, to a BrewBoss with COFI system and am now settled in on BIAB on a propane burner and small batch stove BIAB. I believe 3 vessel brewing was a great way for me personally to get into brewing and to understand what is happening in the brewing process. But cleaning pumps/hoses/heating elements/3 pots/etc. made the whole brew day not fun for me. I can definitely see how some people love the whole process but it aint for me. I like my one pot set up so much more and can enjoy my brew days a ton more, and actually brew more because of it.
 
Been into extract brewing off and on for over 20 years. Made the decision to all grain last December after upgrading my pot to a 20 gallon Spike, pure love there.
I decided to go BIAB after learning about it and how easy (and cheaper than a 3 tier kettle system) it seemed, and is. I brew alone, it is kinda zen like for me as silly as it may sound.
I do feel we get a bit shunned by the 3 tiered brewers, even on this forum (not the BIAB ones). It is what it is I guess.
In the pic is my brewday from last saturday, there are 32.5 pounds of grain in my kettle (double batch of my first NEIPA attempt). I have a pulley system and lined gloves for squeezing that all work perfectly. Also in that pic is my new pump I bought from Amazon for 30 bucks that worked great.
Also in the pic is my sous vide system that allows me to hold the mash temps to perfection with out needing to fire up the ole propane.
Just my take on all this...brew on...:D

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