Sanke Fermenter Sampling Valve

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BryceL

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Hey guys, I've got a couple old sanke kegs that I'm looking to turn into fermenters. I've been looking at sanke conversion kit on brewershardware.com, but am thinking of doing something slightly different and would like to get some thoughts/opinions.

I'm thinking of getting a solid cap with a drilled hole to make a blowoff and then get a sampling valve and butterfly valve to add to the side of the sanke near the bottom. I would use this valve for gravity samples, as well as racking to my keg via gravity. Has anyone done this before? Any advice on how high of the bottom to set my valve?
 
well how many gallons u gonna make? 15? 10?

the only way i would think to get a good reading would be use your regular fermentor, im assuming its a 6.5 carboy, i would look how high it is from there and maybe go 2.5-4 inchs above that. as for drilling the hole make sure you rinse the hell out of the kegs so no metal bits are laying around.

i would also invest in a long mirror wand that way you can inspect every inch of the keg and where the hole is. also how would you install sampler valve?

also maybe someone else could speak on this, but i would look at installing a rubber ring around the top blow off so that way the sharp metal wont cut in to the rubber bung.
 
I plan to do 10g batches with the 15g sanke, and I also have a 7.5 gallon keg I may convert later on if I want to still do some smaller 5g batches. I plan to have my brother do a SS weld for the sampler valve. For the blowoff I was planning on using a solid SS cap and tri clover clamp. I'll drill a hole in the cap and weld on a 1/2" tube which I can attach the blowoff assembly to...no rubber bung.

My other question regarding the sampling valve is should try to build a racking arm, or will simply attaching the valve to the side of the keg be sufficient?
 
I think one of the main drawbacks of a fixed valve on the side (rather than an adjustable racking arm) is your trub and yeast level will vary from beer to beer. You could set it at a conservative (high) level to ensure that the majority of your beers don't draw off any of the yeast/trub, but this comes at the expense of wasted product. Of course, a fixed valve height will be the easiest solution by far.

Another though that just popped into my head, would be to install the spear assembly when you're ready to transfer. You could cut down the length of the spear to your desired racking height, connect the coupler, and then transfer the beer via CO2. This would eliminate the need to weld the keg and allow you to use it as a serving keg later, if desired.
 
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This works pretty good for me.
Common keg coupler with all check valves/balls removed. The liquid line has a party tap and can easily draw samples as needed. Just hook up CO2 to the gas side.
Gas side also is used for the blow off.

The spear is easily removed to clean the inside.
I have 4 total.

pb
 
This works pretty good for me.
Common keg coupler with all check valves/balls removed. The liquid line has a party tap and can easily draw samples as needed. Just hook up CO2 to the gas side.
Gas side also is used for the blow off.

The spear is easily removed to clean the inside.
I have 4 total.

pb
Dredging up an old thread...:mug:
I am going to try this method too. How much trub comes out when you draw a sample? Did you cut off a bit of the spear?
 
Dredging up an old thread...:mug:
I am going to try this method too. How much trub comes out when you draw a sample? Did you cut off a bit of the spear?

I didn't cut the spear any, but you could cut a bit off.
I just pour out a sample and let out sit for a bit too let the trub settle out first.

pb
 
I'm wondering how you can sanitary weld a port into the side of a Sankey without access to the inside of there keg.


Tig welding is magical!

I don't do it, but I see a lot of it!

You purge the vessel with Argon, ( or whichever inerting gas is required for the type of metal), do the weld from the outside, and the weld penetration / bead will magically appear on the inside..........With no corrosion or "sugaring" of the weld !

Pretty wild, with no visible seam!

This , with an experienced welder, mind you!
 
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