Safbrew Abbaye Sulfur bomb

[Alain2]

I brewed a 5 gallon Trappist Single batch using Safbrew Abbaye dry yeast. The recipe was all pilsner grain with a pound of clear candi sugar. I fermented for 10 days at 18c going from 1.042 to 1.004.
Half the batch was bottled with priming sugar and the other half was kegged.
After few days carbonating in the keg I pulled my first glass. The beer smell SULFUR big time, a rhino fart bomb as someone else described it before.
The beer taste good if you ignore the smell and I do not believe to have any bacterial infection.
I purge the keg few times the following days and the smell is still there but it is getting better.
I believe my beer was finished properly, but when I kegged/bottles it and still contained hydrogen sulfide.
I know how this happened. I used a new fermentation vessel; a Clearbrew bucket without airlock. The description of the vessel was: Unlike traditional fermenters, the cover can be closed tightly and CO2 gas will escape, elimination the need for a bung and airlock. So basically the lid is not 100% airtight and the excess of pressure escape. During fermentation the release of gas was very slow, I mean the pressure in the bucket had to be quite high before it would start leaking its excess. Now I believe that the hydrogen sulfide was not able to properly escape and was instead pressured on the beer.
My question is about my bottles, is there anything I can do to fix my bottled beer? What is going to happen when the bottles age?

 

[madscientist451]

I've had sulfur issues with cider before and not beer, but what I've found is the sulfur smell never really goes away. Note that everyone tastes/smells things differently, sulfur seems to bother me more than others, but my experience has been that no matter what, you can't get rid of it, you need to keep the problem from happening in the first place.
Did you taste the beer before bottling/kegging? Was the sulfur smell present then?
I agree that your fermenter issues could have added to the problem.
If you are going to re-brew, and want to start at 18C, I'd ramp it up when its 50% or more done, and let it finish at 20-22C and see if that works better.
Re-hydrating the yeast before pitching may help as well.
I know its hard to do, but dumping your bottled and kegged beer is probably the best thing to do now.

 

[Alain2]

I did not taste the beer. I did what I always do, I take a sample for the hydrometer and read the measurement, if the beer is finish I continue the process of kegging of bottling. I then taste the sample, but just out of curiosity.

I never had a bad batch of beer (I brewed 20 batches last year).

I will definitely taste a sample every time for now on, lesson learned.