Rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler MLT conversion question

[julian81]

Hi guys,

New member here. Serious about getting into home brewing. Been thinking of it for awhile and over the years have collected some of the equipment I need but have just recently moved into my own home and am now ready to actually start brewing, now that I have the space. I'm looking to do AG brews, right off the bat.

I've done a lot of reading about MLT conversions from Rubbermaid 10 gallon coolers which seem to be the best bet for me.

I just got back from Home Depot by following the following MLT conversion thread from FlyGuy (awesome btw man, thanks for all the part numbers!) https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/

I, like many people in that thread, however was unable to locate any 5/8" fender washers. I'd probably be already done if it weren't for this lack of part.

I've also been looking at this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/mlt-cooler-conversion-crushproof-braid-122433/index2.html and I really like the setup here. It's slightly different but it uses larger 1/2" piping instead, which I like. Also, the homebrew store he references is nearby The other factor is, that I'd like to use the bazooka screen, which uses 1/2" threading...so I figure I'll go 1/2" for all parts, and why not make it all stainless steel while I'm at it. It's not too much more.

SO...cutting to the chase. That last thread, the guy isn't using a Rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler and cut his own custom hole for the bulkhead. I'm looking to get pretty much the SAME stainless steel 1/2" parts but for use in my new Rubbermaid 10 gallon cooler. My main question here is:

Will this work? I'd really like for this to work, because it's only $30 more than the brass equivalents I got from home depot that are smaller (at 3/8") from the first thread I linked to above. I'd really like to go 1/2" for faster lautering. The rubber connector that comes with the cooler is 5/8" ID so a 1/2" pipe *should* work right?

Here's my part list I'm looking at (some are exactly from the 2nd link I posted):

- 12" stainless steel screen (bazooka screen) 1/2" NPT threaded
- stainless steel threaded 1/2" nipple
- stainless steel thru-wall (bulkhead) fitting 1/2"
- stainless steel 1/2" NPT ball valve
- stainless steel barbed fitting 1/2"

Interested in thoughts and comments, or alternative recommendations...although I've read so much my mind is spinning now and I just want to get an MLT built so I can start brewing!

Thanks guys, look forward to the replies!

--Julian

 

[julian81]

I guess the other question I have now, since I can't stop reading this forum, is whether I should go false bottom. If I do, it looks like I need to go 12" false bottom (stainless steel), but all the 12" SS false bottoms I've seen (from midwestsupplies.com and northernbrewer.com) have an elbow that has a 3/8" barb fitting. How would I go about using the setup I mentioned above (1/2"
ball valve) with this? I'd need some kind of adapter. Do they make a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter?

 

[Frodo]

I kinda stopped reading the first post cause I was thinking "why wouldn't he just go false bottom with a 10 gallon round cooler?". Then I saw the second post. In my opinion if you go with a round cooler, it's best to get a false bottom. And if you have a false bottom in a round cooler it's best to fly sparge. If you fly sparge the 3/8" rig will be fine since you won't have it open full bore anyway during sparging. I've only fly-sparged, and find it very easy and simpler for me. Only vorlauf once, "set it and forget it" (well "set it and check on it every 5 to 10 minutes"), don't worry about how much sparge water to use and how much water the grain will absorb... only make sure you heat enough sparge water and let it run through until you hit your preboil volume. That's what I mean by easy.

 

[julian81]

Ah, gotcha. That does seem easier.

Would you recommend the 12" stainless steel false bottom in that case? Such as this one? http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/12-s-s-false-bottom.html

This is a bit more expensive, but I noticed the dome height is 1/4" higher than the others I've seen (this one is 3/4" vs the others that are 1/2").

If not, do you recommend a different one that fits nicely in a 10 gal rubbermaid cooler?

Also, assuming I keep all the 3/8" fittings and get this false bottom, I assume all I'll need then to connect it to the barbed 3/8" adapter on the inside is some of this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/3-8-hose-hi-temp-vinyl-safe-to-212-f.html

Does that sound about right?

Btw, thanks for your input. Much appreciated!

 

[Frodo]

That's the false bottom I have from Northern Brewer. It works great IMO.

For tubing from the false bottom to the gated valve, I use a small chunk of this:
http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewing/3-8-id-thermoplastic-tubing.html

I also use that type of tubing from the hot liquor tank (HLT; I use a rectangular cooler also with a gated valve similar to the one on the 10 gallon round cooler MLT) to the MLT. Before I got a fly sparge arm, I would add a mashout addition of water to get the grainbed to about 170F (not over 170F), stir really well for a couple of minutes, vorlauf while keeping enough sparge water (170F) on the top of the grainbed to cover the grains with at least 2 to 4 inches of water, and keep adding water to keep water over the grain in the MLT. The water from the HLT I just dribble in onto the top of the water in the MLT occasionally changing the place it was dribbling onto... I've heard other brewers apparently try to rig a coffee can top, or place a plate on the grainbed... I never worried about it, just figuring if I kept a good amount of water over the grain it wouldn't matter. I've gotten efficiencies in the low to mid 80s that way, and the final runnings are in the 1.010 range.

Not saying you can't batch sparge with a round cooler - many seem to really like batch sparging. I never even went that route, just started fly sparging right off the bat. I just figure that a round cooler is really ideal for fly sparging... it is more expensive though, with a false bottom and a sparge arm (if you decide to get one) rather than just using a braid in the bottom of the cooler.

EDIT: There are photos of my ghetto setup on my profile. I don't think I can attach them due to not being a paid member.

 

[julian81]

Cool, thanks. I just ordered it from northernbrewer, along with the bulkhead they sell also. I liked the design of it better than FlyGuy's build, but mostly it was just easier because I couldn't get all the parts in FlyGuy's design. Just need to go back to Home Depot today to take this stuff back and swap the 3/8" ball valve for a 1/2".

Now it looks like I need to pick up another cooler and parts for the HLT.

Almost done!



--J

 

[steinsato]

I'm upgrading from a 5 gallon round cooler MT to a 10 gallon round cooler MT. I currently have a 9 inch false bottom for the 5 gallon and was hoping I could use it in the 10 gallon. Anyone know if this would work or will there be too much wiggle room for it? In which case I would have to buy the 12" false bottom as well.

 

[ctb6760]

sorry to bring up an old thread but I was wondering whether you went with 1/2" parts or 3/8" and if you went with 1/2" did you have to drill out the hole at all?