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jeph00

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Hello everyone.
Just getting started with home brewing. I brewed this batch on September 8. Why is it not settling on the bottom?
This is a beer with 9lbs malt barley, 1 lb flaked corn in 27L of total water. US-05 Yeast.
Thanks in advance.
 

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Give it more time. It is just finishing the primary part of the fermentation and is still outgassing a lot of CO2. Check it again in another week.
 
Give it more time. It is just finishing the primary part of the fermentation and is still outgassing a lot of CO2. Check it again in another week.
Okay great. I had just read that the US-05 usually finishes within 5 days, so I wasn't sure if this was normal. :)
 
I had just read that the US-05 usually finishes within 5 days
Fermentis has a "Tips and Tricks" brochure (Beer Tips and Tricks) with information on their various yeast strains. There is a chart on p 28 that shows what one might expect with their various strains of yeast.

I'm not sure how well their 'new to me' "PDF viewer" works on phones, so I'll include one chart (annotations in purple) here:
1631793250518.png


There's a 2nd chart on that page that shows the same information for 18P (OG 74) wort - worts with higher SG appear to take longer to finish.
 
i find a jiggle will drop yeast on top like that...
It may, except, I wouldn't jiggle a glass carboy on a hard (tile, cement) floor.

@jeph00, stick a few times folded-over large towel underneath and have utter respect for large glass vessels, they are fragile! Please handle with care and with appropriate body protection.

The top looks pretty gnarly, probably coagulated yeast and proteins. It should sink eventually.
 
You are seeing a delicious batch of beer! Cold crash. Gelatin if you want. Great job!!!!
 
I am still unsure how to read OG and what exactly it means for home brewing.:p
 
I wouldn't rush into cold crashing or gelatin at this stage (of this beer or you as a brewer).

Just wait a week. Most likely the fermentation will be done and that stuff will mostly drop to the bottom and the beer will clear up.

If you start fiddling with it too much while still learning the basics, you may just as likely make it worse as you are to improve the beer. And it will be harder to identify the cause of any problems if they arise.

The simplest suggestion is to just leave it alone and let it finish. If this batch turns out good, you can try adding a new step next time.
 
Give it more time. It is just finishing the primary part of the fermentation and is still outgassing a lot of CO2. Check it again in another week.
When you're saying outgassing, wouldn't my air lock be bubbling from the co2? Because at the moment it's inactive. No bubbling action at all.
 
When you're saying outgassing, wouldn't my air lock be bubbling from the co2? Because at the moment it's inactive. No bubbling action at all.

No. During the early/most active part of fermentation enough CO2 gets created to cause bubbles in the airlock (usually) but after that, slower fermentation and offgassing may not (or just be so infrequent you don't notice). It's more like CO2 churn at that point instead if creation.

It's also possible the airlock does not actually have seal tight enough to still bubble when fermentation slows.

Regardless, lack of airlock activity after active fermentation is normal and nothing to worry about. And it does NOT mean your fermentation is done.
 
Don't be checking the SG in your fermenter just to have something to busy yourself with. Leave it alone till all activity stops and it cleans up somewhat.

While checking the SG might tell you it's done making alcohol, it doesn't mean it's ready to bottle or keg. Unless you doing the gelatin and/or coldcrashing and other fuss to clarify it, then several additional weeks will usually clean up the beer pretty well. Usually improves the flavor as opposed to all the doom and gloom some think.

6 weeks isn't unreasonable IMO.
 
It may, except, I wouldn't jiggle a glass carboy on a hard (tile, cement) floor.


wimp, it's ONLY 50lbs or so, just pick it up and give it a swirl! ;) (but good point about the flooring, but i would think all it would take is a slight leaning and back and forth a couple times?)
 
I’d put a towel under one bottom side of the carboy to act as a pad. I’d then tip the carboy on the pad slightly to use it as a pivot point to swirl the beer a bit. The carboy is full of CO2 at this point, if you are careful you can swirl it a bit to break up the mass and eventually it will drop. When you are done with this batch, go toss that dangerous glass carboy in the trash and go buy a PET plastic replacement carboy!
 
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When you are done with this batch, go toss that dangerous glass carboy in the trash and go buy a PET plastic replacement carboy!
+1.

and when you go looking for a plastic carboy, get one of the type with the wide mouth. makes it much easier to clean. and don't use anything abrasive to clean it--just a soft sponge or rag.
 
go toss that dangerous glass carboy in the trash
Not entirely necessary, but surely something to consider, yes. Especially when they're of the "ribbed" variety.

@jeph00
The carboy you're using, pictured in your OP, looks like an older one, it's smooth it doesn't have "ribs". That's a positive sign! But you still need to be careful handling them, and take precautions in case it cracks. Large glass shards can cause serious, even life threatening injury. We have a few threads on the carnage they have caused.

Once it's empty, check if there is something cast into the bottom. Most of the older carboys came from Italy and Mexico, they look similar to yours, smooth, and usually thicker glass. Some may have a slight greenish, bluish, or grayish tint. Weight can be an indication of solidity and good manufacture too.

Carboys with "ribs" are most suspect of breaking unexpectedly, the ones made during the past 10 years or so coming from China (and possibly India from what I've read). Manufacturing standards there are low with poor or no QC whatsoever. Those are the ones that should be tossed.
To complicate matters, some modern Italian-made carboys also come in the ribbed variety, and they're not always easy to distinguish.

If you're doing mixed fermentation sours, long term bulk aging, etc. glass carboys (especially the smooth ones, like the one you have) can be used for that, as they're not handled much, they just sit on a shelf or the floor with some carpet or thick towels underneath. You still need to be careful when handling them and use precautions (Brew Hauler, crate, gloves, good footwear, etc.). Just avoid using them for routine "run of the mill" batches every few weeks.
 

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