Rogue Paint label Removal

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bonsai4tim

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I've search several times, so I know this has been discussed recently, but with no clear answer.

I know what doesn't work for my recently empty rogue bottles:
StarSan
Naval Jelly (Phosporic acid) for 24 hours (this works really well on most bottles though. Paint it on with a brush, wash off with water next morning)
Oxyclean x days
Lacquer thinner

What is working:
StripEz paint stripper (from HD or Lowes) for the last 12 hours has taken off about 1/2 the paint, needs a thick coat.

I'm going to try a layer of aluminum foil over it on the next one (a trick from wood finish removal, keeps the stripper from evaporating as fast).

t
 
I read here recently that CLR Calcium Lime Rust Remover is supposed to work well for that, too.
 
I've posted this a couple times on this forum but maybe I should start a thread for it so its easier to find.

Place the bottles into a solution of 1 part muriatic acid and 3 parts water for 15 minutes. Sometimes I even make a stronger solution. Take out and rub the labels off with a scrubby brush or fine steel wool and rinse. I also fill the bottles with regular tap water first before placing them in an empty bucket and filling with solution to avoid getting any acid solution in the bottles. Don't know if it would have any adverse affects but I don't want to take any chances. And on top of that I don't fill the bucket to the top of the bottles; only as high as needed to cover the painted surfaces. After inspecting the bottles you can only faintly see what was silk screened onto the Stone bottles but only it a certain light. If you didn't know, you'd never notice it. Rogue bottles tend to need a little more scrubbing but I think come out better.

To be safe, do this in a well vented room or outside.
 
Place the bottles into a solution of 1 part muriatic acid and 3 parts water for 15 minutes. Sometimes I even make a stronger solution. Take out and rub the labels off with a scrubby brush or fine steel wool and rinse. I also fill the bottles with regular tap water first before placing them in an empty bucket and filling with solution to avoid getting any acid solution in the bottles. Don't know if it would have any adverse affects but I don't want to take any chances. And on top of that I don't fill the bucket to the top of the bottles; only as high as needed to cover the painted surfaces. After inspecting the bottles you can only faintly see what was silk screened onto the Stone bottles but only it a certain light. If you didn't know, you'd never notice it. Rogue bottles tend to need a little more scrubbing but I think come out better.

To be safe, do this in a well vented room or outside.

Muriatic acid was to be the next step I tried. Didn't have any in the garage since we don't have a pool. Glad to know it works, probably easier to use the StripEz and a lot faster.

t
 
Two comments-- (1) I have successfully removed paint/silkscreen from various objects including ceramic mugs with a soft cotton buffing wheel mounted on a bench grinder. Put a little jeweler's rouge on the wheel and use light pressure. (2) Of the chemicals mentioned above, the only one that would make me comfortable is muriatic (hydrochloric) acid-- HCl. It's strong enough to do the job, easily rinses completely clean, and breaks down into harmless components--usually it grabs the first mineral it can find and forms a non-soluble salt. Phosphoric acid is fine too (it's used in sodas for tartness), but I don't think I'd fool with a paint stripper or any kind of organic solvent around my food/beverage equipment. But that's just me. Personally I'd go with some kind of mechanical removal like the buffing wheel.

Edit--just a note before anyone points it out--yes, I know hydrochloric acid is hydrogen and chlorine and those aren't "harmless components." Probably should not have said it "breaks down", but rather readily combines with other substances. In any case it doesn't leave organic residues in your beer bottles.
 
Rogue puts all their really good stuff in silk screened bottles :(.

I know...had some Dead Guy this week (oh, sorry, glue on - and yes I headed out the 10F garage to check the empties - friggin cold here in MA), but geez, have your pop and friends provide you with their glue on's...SO MUCH EASIER!!!

:drunk:

Still got LOL, but for me, just not worth the effort!
 
Two suggestions:

1. Why not leave it on... I leave all my silk-screened bottles as is

2. Take a razor blade to it. The exception to the rule above for me is that on some bottles I scraped away select parts of the labels to make a more "interesting" label...
 
I just threw about 12 of them out tonight after growing tired of the labels. I have PLENTY of free bottles and a public source that isn't about to run dry. I figure they are free and convenient to me and any other homebrewer that lives around my area so they aren't worth the time so I didn't feel bad recycling them.
 
Why go through all the trouble of using the Rouge or Stone bottles? Why not just get some other great beer and use those bottles?
 
Does anybody know if the CLR or muratic acid tricks work on the ceramic Rogue bottles?

I do know that CLR works on the cobalt blue Nittany Ale bottles from Midwest Supplies. Immerse for 12 hours in a small coffee can and a scrubby pad will remove the white paint.
I have also diluted the CLR with water. Slow but effective.
 
wow lacquer thinner didn't work?

Did you try turpentine?

Have you heard of Goof Off? It's crazy strong stuff, just make sure you're outside when using it. I'm pretty sure Home Depot & Lowes carry it (around here they do anyway).

And keep it away from plastics and anything painted that you don't want to remove the paint from.
 
wow lacquer thinner didn't work?

Did you try turpentine?

Have you heard of Goof Off? It's crazy strong stuff, just make sure you're outside when using it. I'm pretty sure Home Depot & Lowes carry it (around here they do anyway).

And keep it away from plastics and anything painted that you don't want to remove the paint from.

To each his own, but I wouldn't use any kind of organic or petroleum-related solvent on bottles that were going to hold potables. Muriatic rinses away completely with plain water and doesn't leave a residue. The thought of turpentine or laquer thinner near my beer is a little discomforting.

Don't know anything about Goof Off, but I have used GooGone, which is a citrus-oil cleaner, to remove label glue. You still have to clean the bottles very thoroughly afterwards, or the citrus oil residue will kill any head on your beer, not to mention give it an interesting orange flavor. But at least it's not turpentine :cross:

I'd lean toward some kind of mechanical removal, such as a buffing wheel. You can also get Scotchbrite wheels which you can chuck in a drill or possibly mount on a grinder.
 
The thought of turpentine or laquer thinner near my beer is a little discomforting.

but they're both so delicious!! ::cross::drunk:::drunk::cross:

seriously though, I'm pretty sure labels are only on the outside of the bottles. Is someone planning on racking their beer to the outside of the bottles?
Wash em with Oxi-clean (or any good soap/detergent) in hot water after using any nasty solvents on the outside of the bottle and you should be juusst fine [Assuming we're only talking about glass bottles. I def wouldn't use any strong solvents on plastic]
 
muriatic acid: no
goof off: no

i tried the 1:3 ratio for the acid, no luck, even tried almost pure acid, still no luck. Rogue must finish theirs differently than normal silk screen labels.

i used a wire buffer wheel on a dremel, which worked, but basically ate all the wires off the wheel to take off one label. Decided to leave 'em be, give 'em away when i want to share bottled beer, and don't ask for them back. If you do your own labels, just affix yours on top of theirs. Maybe that will work. I'm interested in the CLR though.
 
I have removed the silk screened labels on rogue bottles with regular dilution star-san. I just left them in it for 2 weeks. (Which is as far as I know just dilute phosphoric acid a surfactant and maybe other stuff)
 
I have removed the silk screened labels on rogue bottles with regular dilution star-san. I just left them in it for 2 weeks. (Which is as far as I know just dilute phosphoric acid a surfactant and maybe other stuff)

Wow, great suggestion!

I love the Stone/Rogue varieties, but have been consuming a LOT of Bear Republic Hop Hod, Racer 5 and Big Bear Black Stout to build the 22oz bottle farm.

Now I know what to do with the 8 Sublimely Self-righteous bottles in the garage... Thanks!
 
I find it interesting that no one can get starsan to work. I leave my bottles in starsan at room temp for a day sometimes for 48 hours and the labels come right off. Yes, Rogue bottles, Stone bottles, all of the above that are silk screened. I used to live 40 mins from rogue so you can imagine how many bottle I have.
 
I just tossed 8 rogue bombers w/ paint into 2.5 gallons of water to 2.5 ounces of starsan night... I just picked up a deadguy bottle out of the bucket and the paint came right off with a wire brush. I tried all the bottles in the bucket (all varieties of rogue) and some required more effort than others but the paint was able to be rubbed off. I'm going to let them sit for a few days so I don't have to put in too much manual labor, but it does work :D
 
iv been soaking some mill street bottles in 2x starsan mix for 2 days now but not sure it will work to remove the labels as i just found out they are applied ceramic labels not regular paint. anyone have any luck removing these type of labels?
 
I see OP said that starsan didn't work for his Rogue bottles . I saw somewhere that CLR was supposed to work. I have had Tripel Karmeliet ( My Fav! ) bottles sitting for over a week with no luck. I will try getting the acid but was wondering if anyone knows or has luck with what ever paint the Belgians use. I do not plan on reusing them for home brewing just re purposing them into planters but want to get the paint off of them before I cut the glass. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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