Robobrew help

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

toddfore

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
60
Reaction score
8
Just brewed my 1st robobrew batch and my OG numbers were way off. Maybe someone can give me some advice on why.
crushed at 050.
3lbs wheat
1lb 2-row
1lb golden promise
4oz cara-10
4oz carafoam
4oz rice hulls
Mashed at 150* using recirculation pump for 60min. in 3 gallons of water(actually 2 because the 1st gallon is below the grain bed).
Hand sparged 2 gallons @170*
started boil with 4.5gall. and ended w/3.2gall.
According to brewer's friend I was only at 50%eff. My target was 4 gallons to fermenter at 1.050 but was 1.030 at 3.2gall.
Any thoughts? Thanks.

Todd
 
I would search for Gash's robobrew equipment and mash profile for beersmith. Load it up and take a look at the numbers he has.

I would also verify all of your measurements. The ones on the side of the robobrew are incorrect.

Just a few tips. I only have 5 batches on mine and I have not quite dialed mine in but I am at about 70% eff. doing 3 gallon batches to the fermenter.

-bn
 
I just did my first batch with the robobrew, too. I used short circuited brewing profile on beersmith. I think it was good, but I had similar problems with volume. I think in the end it had to do with getting confused with faulty markings on the side of the robobrew, as mentioned. On mine, robobrew markings are short about a quarter gallon--so, 4.5 gallons of water turns out to be 4.25 gallons in robobrew. Definitely threw me off.
 
I also use the short circuited BeerSmith profile. Getting 75% or greater eff. From what others have posted, a mash out is essential.

And don’t use the volume markings on the Robobrew.
 
I'm going to give this profile a try. Already started today before I noticed the post. Always looking to better my day.

-bn


I just did my first batch with the robobrew, too. I used short circuited brewing profile on beersmith. I think it was good, but I had similar problems with volume. I think in the end it had to do with getting confused with faulty markings on the side of the robobrew, as mentioned. On mine, robobrew markings are short about a quarter gallon--so, 4.5 gallons of water turns out to be 4.25 gallons in robobrew. Definitely threw me off.
 
How long does it take you guys to get to boiling from mash temps? I bought the one with 2400 total watts from AU and am using a transformer to convert the power. I only brewed 1 so don't know my times yet.
 
I wrapped mine and still dread doing over a 5gal boil. I just can't get a good boil over 4.75gallons. I limit my batches now to 3gal in the fermenter.

Could be the old wiring here in this house. I haven't had an opportunity to try it elsewhere.

I should have just bought the 240v from AU.
 
I have the US version 1500W. I've only done one batch on it so far, but I didn't have trouble getting to a boil, but as mentioned, I was a bit short on my water levels. I think it will probably boil just fine. We will see.

I also put a yoga mat around it as insulation and some pipe insulation on the recirculation arm.

By the way, you don't need a huge boil when making beer. A sleight rolling boil is enough. I think one of the pieces of misinformation that swirls around is that there needs to be a big boil, like what you get when using a propane burner. Plenty of people are making good beer with the US robobrew and a light boil, so I hear. I know my buddy gets a decent enough boil with his grainfather, which is the same wattage. He makes very good beer.
 
Did my 2nd brew and crushed my grains around 039 and when I added them and took the temperature with a thermometer I noticed it was only 144 degrees but I had it set at 152 and the heating units didn't kick in. I uped the temperature to 156 till temperature reached 152 and I ended up with 66% eff. Which was a big improvement. so far I love this thing.
 
Did my 2nd brew and crushed my grains around 039 and when I added them and took the temperature with a thermometer I noticed it was only 144 degrees but I had it set at 152 and the heating units didn't kick in. I uped the temperature to 156 till temperature reached 152 and I ended up with 66% eff. Which was a big improvement. so far I love this thing.

Yes, there will definitely be temp discrepancies from bottom to top. The probe is at the bottom of the unit. You just have to be aware of that and adjust accordingly like it sounds like you did.
 
Do you have a refractometer? I found sugars were still converting in my unit right up until closer to 90 minutes. Highly recommend a mashout also, that helped my efficiency a bit, as did a narrower crush.
 
I don't have a refractometer. I crushed at 039 and did a 2 gallon sparge and increased to 66%. Will try lengthening mash and mashout. Thanks.

Todd
 
I believe Gash's latest profile is from August using the new version of the Robobrew.



The one I found said to plan for 1.28 gallons of boil off on a 60 minute boil. That is really high I feel. I only boil off about half a gallon.
 
My experience is similar. My boiloff rate is very low because even with both burners going the boil is not terribly vigorous.
 
Old thread here, but figure I'd chime in. My gallon markings were likewise off about 0.3 gallons. But in my case it was reading higher volume than what I actually had. Reading the original post that noted 1.3 gallons of boil off in 60 minutes was the clue to me that he's probably a victim of the volume markings being off (apparently they had a welding set-up issue according to Keg King). My profile is set up with 0.66 gallons of boil off in an hour (not sure how I came to be that precise...).

I don't have my exact crush gap, but I do crush it fairly fine. I regularly hit 73% efficiency. The temperature difference is another one you need to adjust for. I took data and characterized mine with 2 different water volumes, representing a 2.5 gallon batch and 5 gallon batch. The probe reads a few degrees high. I just use my temperature characterization curve on brew day and as I map out each temperature step, I list the temperature I'm after and the corresponding temperature I set on the Robobrew controller. This link is to my review I did on HomeBrew Finds of the Robobrew. Toward the end you can see my temperature curves. I'd highly recommend you develop the same for yourself (in case it's different) by doing an experiment with water and a good calibrated thermometer you trust. Lower mash temp will give you lower OG, making your efficiency look bad as well.
Temperature Error with 4 Gallons.jpg
Temperature Error with 7 Gallons over 30 Minutes.jpg
Temperature Error with 7 Gallons.jpg


http://www.homebrewfinds.com/2017/10/hands-on-review-robobrew-all-grain-brewing-system.html
 
Lower mash temp will give you lower OG, making your efficiency look bad as well.

My experience with the Robobrew is very consistent with your findings here. However, I was a little confused by the above claim that a lower mash temp will result in lower OG. I have never found this to be the case. A lower mash temp will result in a lower FG, but I've never seen anything to suggest it would have an impact on starting gravity. Do you have research on this?
 
The lower OG with lower temperature has just been my personal experience. No scientific study was done to quantify this effect across different grain bills, mash temperature, and mash duration. Of course if you have done research on this and shown that this is not the case, I'd be interested in reading it.
 
Back
Top