Robobrew/Brewzilla Discussion

[rjhoff]

Same here. As I say, I normally want to set and forget it. So I put on the top screen, turn the pump on, but just set it to a trickle. Then, I check it later and adjust the flow.

This approach backfired on me yesterday, because I set it and left to mow the yard. (I’m basically just mulching leaves). I thought I had switched it to auto mode. I have been using auto mode to step mash, and have the temps and times programmed. I came back to find that it was still in manual mode, with the temp sitting at 122* for an hour. I switched it to auto, and let it run from there. But the OG ended up being much lower than targeted, ending at 1.062. I guess it will be an IPA instead of a DIPA? It’s an Arrogant Bastard recipe.

Sorry you undershot. I try to stay close during the mash. Even if I step away to do cleaning or prep I end up overflowing. I try no to step away unless the pump is off. My leaves are still sitting out there I‘ve never used the auto mode...

 

[Sammy86]

I get very inconsistent recirculation flow on the 35L. I have a couple recipes where it’s due to grain bill but I‘d say for all recipes I’m restricting pump flow and cycling the pump on and off. I also time the pump on right after the heaters turn off which puts the hot wort on the grain and helps to keep the mash temp up. I guess the 3.0 grist ratio created a bigger problem for you...

Yeah, it was insane! I'd rather the grist be a slightly thicker on mash in knowing there is 3 gallons underneath ready to get circulated up.

 

[RePete]

I‘ve never used the auto mode...

I didn't use it for a long time, but have been using it as of late...mostly when doing lagers using Pilsner malt. It seems to me that the auto feature might be one of the real strengths of these units. It makes step mashing easy.

 

[Sammy86]

I didn't use it for a long time, but have been using it as of late...mostly when doing lagers using Pilsner malt. It seems to me that the auto feature might be one of the real strengths of these units. It makes step mashing easy.

How long does it usually take you to ramp up temps? For example, it took 9 minutes to get from 145 to 158. I'm still playing around with it to figure out times.

 

[RePete]

How long does it usually take you to ramp up temps? For example, it took 9 minutes to get from 145 to 158. I'm still playing around with it to figure out times.

That sounds about right. I do shorter rests at 122 and 132. Then 30 mins at 142 and 158. Then ramp up to 170 for mash out for 20 mins. And then it's set to 220 to boil. So, I use all 6 times. I lift the basket and start to sparge once it hits 170. My sparge water is at 170. Usually by the time I finish sparging, it is about up to boil.

 

[ATLBeer]

Ok I was semi successful on my first all grain with the robobrew. Sorry this is long.

Dough in was fine. Needed to add in about a gallon to keep the mash stirable.

On mash out turned heat up. Turned pump on to grab any grain, but still got a scorch error almost immediately. Shut off to reset.

Sparged with about a gallon of hot water. Was prob too hot. Had some 180 water in a cooler for topoff and cleaning.

Had a little compaction and inconsistent flow. I used the cover and had a diffuser on the pump hose. Moved it around every few minutes but the cover was noticeably cocked. Slow sparge. Set the mash in a bucket to collect the last of the wort.

Added hot water to get to 6 gallons for boil.

Boil was pretty uneventful. Set at 104 kept a constant 102 and a low to med boil.

I cooked a more beer Soulless Hop Pale ale kit. Saved the 10 and 1 min citra hops, 4 oz, for fire out and ran the pump 10 min.
Because of the change I forgot the whirfloc.

Didn’t boil off enough. Still had almost 6 gallons of wort at end of boil.

Used the immersion chiller backwards. Realized I didn’t have the right pump to pump slurry water through the coil, so I used the robobrew pump to pump wort through it while sitting in a cooler. Got to 80F in less than 15 minutes. By the way it cleaned out fine.

Gave the pot a couple good swirls and let it settle. Loaded up the carboy. Looks a little dark.

Just pitched my yeast. And we’ll see how it goes. That’s an extract blue moon clone for my wife in the spiedel.

Thank for listening.

 

[RePete]

Ok I was semi successful on my first all grain with the robobrew. Sorry this is long.

Dough in was fine. Needed to add in about a gallon to keep the mash stirable.

On mash out turned heat up. Turned pump on to grab any grain, but still got a scorch error almost immediately. Shut off to reset.

Sparged with about a gallon of hot water. Was prob too hot. Had some 180 water in a cooler for topoff and cleaning.

Had a little compaction and inconsistent flow. I used the cover and had a diffuser on the pump hose. Moved it around every few minutes but the cover was noticeably cocked. Slow sparge. Set the mash in a bucket to collect the last of the wort.

Added hot water to get to 6 gallons for boil.

Boil was pretty uneventful. Set at 104 kept a constant 102 and a low to med boil.

I cooked a more beer Soulless Hop Pale ale kit. Saved the 10 and 1 min citra hops, 4 oz, for fire out and ran the pump 10 min.
Because of the change I forgot the whirfloc.

Didn’t boil off enough. Still had almost 6 gallons of wort at end of boil.

Used the immersion chiller backwards. Realized I didn’t have the right pump to pump slurry water through the coil, so I used the robobrew pump to pump wort through it while sitting in a cooler. Got to 80F in less than 15 minutes. By the way it cleaned out fine.

Gave the pot a couple good swirls and let it settle. Loaded up the carboy. Looks a little dark.

Just pitched my yeast. And we’ll see how it goes. That’s an extract blue moon clone for my wife in the spiedel.

Thank for listening.

View attachment 708417

Thanks for telling your story. Sounds like a successful day. It looks like beer!

So are you saying that you had very little boil off? I normally start the boil with close to 7 gallons. I don’t just add water, because I want to extract any fermentables from the grain that is still there. So I sparge to get it up to that volume, Yes, it is often slow and takes a while. I normally end up with 5.5-6 gallons into the fermenter, to get 5 gallons into the keg.

 

[ATLBeer]

Yes no boil off. Prob had too low a boil, but when I used this kettle for extract my hops boiled over so I kept it a little lower this time.

I was planning to sparge with more water but the scorch error threw me off. I added less than 1/2 gallon so not too worried about it.

I also forgot to test the gravity, so I’ll just assume it’s perfect.

 

[rjhoff]

Yes no boil off. Prob had too low a boil, but when I used this kettle for extract my hops boiled over so I kept it a little lower this time.

I was planning to sparge with more water but the scorch error threw me off. I added less than 1/2 gallon so not too worried about it.

I also forgot to test the gravity, so I’ll just assume it’s perfect.

You should be boiling off 1 gallon per hour

 

[RePete]

Yes no boil off. Prob had too low a boil, but when I used this kettle for extract my hops boiled over so I kept it a little lower this time.

I was planning to sparge with more water but the scorch error threw me off. I added less than 1/2 gallon so not too worried about it.

I also forgot to test the gravity, so I’ll just assume it’s perfect.

I am curious about the scorching error. I have never seen it on my system. What version do you have?

As far as I know, the boil over usually happens at the break. In general, I just crank it up. I have seen some people say that they don’t get a strong boil with this system. It’s not been a problem here, but it doesn’t boil over either (after the break), no matter how high I set the temp.

 

[rjhoff]

I am curious about the scorching error. I have never seen it on my system. What version do you have?

As far as I know, the boil over usually happens at the break. In general, I just crank it up. I have seen some people say that they don’t get a strong boil with this system. It’s not been a problem here, but it doesn’t boil over either (after the break), no matter how high I set the temp.

Me too

Possibly error code E3 (boil dry protection triggered) or E4 (temperature overheated)?

 

[ATLBeer]

I got an E3 very soon after I lifted the basket and turned the heat up. I had run the pump to clear anything that got through the filters, but evidently didn't get enough. When I cleaned up, there was a crescent of scorched material just inside the element ring opposite the pump intake. Had to use a brillo pad to get it off.

This is an older 35L Robobrew, that I bought used on craigslist. Got a lot of other equipment with it for a couple hundred bucks, so it was worth trying. If the model is important I can dig it out.

When I did my extract runs, I had a hard time getting a consistent strong boil going without boiling over my hops.

Because of the scorching, previous boil overs, and getting distracted with few household things, I just set it at 104C and let it rip. It was obviously too low since there was no boil off, but we'll see how it turned out in 4-5 weeks.

Yeast took off last night, so I guess it can officially be called beer.

 

[rjhoff]

Sounds like you had pumped all the wort out of the false bottom space before you lifted the malt pipe. This can happen, especially with smaller beers. I keep the grain (don't allow overflows) and hops (hop spider) out of the boil and have very little sediment left at the end of boil.

 

[ATLBeer]

RJ, Could have been, but there was plenty of out flow from the basket when I raised it and there wasnt any water on top of the grain at the time.

I think I just had some extra sediment, but I'll make sure to look out for that next time.

 

[rjhoff]

RJ, Could have been, but there was plenty of out flow from the basket when I raised it and there wasnt any water on top of the grain at the time.

I think I just had some extra sediment, but I'll make sure to look out for that next time.

Ah ok, the sediment probably caused heat build up. Hadn't thought of that.

 

[RePete]

This is an older 35L Robobrew, that I bought used on craigslist. Got a lot of other equipment with it for a couple hundred bucks, so it was worth trying. If the model is important I can dig it

Sounds like you got a good deal. At least a couple of us have upgraded the circuit boards. My unit was the v3.0. 35L, 110v. It ran like a champ for a couple years, and then burned out. Now it has v3.1. The display says Brewzilla instead of Robobrew. You have to change the display board along with the control board, because the connections are different. I think I bought mine through Williams.

 

[rjhoff]

Sounds like you got a good deal. At least a couple of us have upgraded the circuit boards. My unit was the v3.0. 35L, 110v. It ran like a champ for a couple years, and then burned out. Now it has v3.1. The display says Brewzilla instead of Robobrew. You have to change the display board along with the control board, because the connections are different. I think I bought mine through Williams.

My situation is the same as @RePete. If you have the 3.0 35L 110V and the control & display boards have not been updated I suggest you buy the set - Williams has been back ordered quite often.

EDIT: in stock now
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...a/Robobrew-Gen-311-Upgrade-Board-Set-110-volt

 

[RePete]

My situation is the same as @RePete.
EDIT: in stock now
https://www.williamsbrewing.com/Hom...a/Robobrew-Gen-311-Upgrade-Board-Set-110-volt

Mine must be v3.1.1

 

[ATLBeer]

I've got the 8695, but the display board only has 4 buttons not the 8 on the Williams link.
What 'version' is this and is it upgradeable?

 

[RePete]

I've got the 8695, but the display board only has 4 buttons not the 8 on the Williams link.
What 'version' is this and is it upgradeable?

I don't know.
I looked it up. Seems that yours isn't programmable.

 

[rjhoff]

I've got the 8695, but the display board only has 4 buttons not the 8 on the Williams link.
What 'version' is this and is it upgradeable?

It looks like this unit came out in early 2017 and replaced the original model, but possibly predates version 2.0 as i recall the 2.0 didn’t have a pump. Theres some history on this site, but looks like it’s been idle since 2018: RoboBrew - Single vessel, automated all grain homebrew beer

 

[ATLBeer]

Thanks for the info. Looks like mine is a gen 2 with a pump and won't upgrade.

No biggie, it's working fine. If it goes, I'll have a new project to figure out!

 

[rjhoff]

Thanks for the info. Looks like mine is a gen 2 with a pump and won't upgrade.

No biggie, it's working fine. If it goes, I'll have a new project to figure out!

As far as I know the defect was only on the 3.0 Robobrew and for sure I haven’t seen upgrade boards for earlier versions.

 

[RePete]

Thought I would show the stirring paddle I made. They had some at the LHBS, and I thought...I can make one of those!

 

[rjhoff]

Thought I would show the stirring paddle I made. They had some at the LHBS, and I thought...I can make one of those!

Nice! You could sell them. I bought mine from a guy on Etsy - Abbey Cat Brewing - I'm sure he's making them in the garage.

 

[RePete]

Nice! You could sell them. I bought mine from a guy on Etsy - Abbey Cat Brewing - I'm sure he's making them in the garage.

Thanks. It's not alot of work. And I had the wood. But don't want to go into production. Too much other work to do.

 

[Sammy86]

Thought I would show the stirring paddle I made. They had some at the LHBS, and I thought...I can make one of those!

Looks awesome!

 

[RePete]

Deciding what to brew today. And what to do with the beer in the fermenter. I need more kegs! Lol.

 

[cayde1001]

Deciding what to brew today. And what to do with the beer in the fermenter. I need more kegs! Lol.

Hope all goes smoothly. I just finished brewing a stout this morning and finally had a mostly successful brew day. Mash circulated and drained very good and i hit my numbers. I am still trying to figure out what elements to use during the boil (65L 3500w version) to get a good boil, tried 2500w today and most of the time had a good rolling boil. Oh and I assumed that I would not need a hop spider with only using 1.35oz of hops total and was very wrong. So back to using the hop spider for every brew.

 

[rjhoff]

I just bought another keg. I have 2 primary fermenters, 1 secondary fermenter (for conditioning), 6 kegs (5 can be refrigerated, 3 on tap). Basically I brew as soon as a primary fermenter opens up...

 

[RePete]

Hope all goes smoothly. I just finished brewing a stout this morning and finally had a mostly successful brew day. Mash circulated and drained very good and i hit my numbers. I am still trying to figure out what elements to use during the boil (65L 3500w version) to get a good boil, tried 2500w today and most of the time had a good rolling boil. Oh and I assumed that I would not need a hop spider with only using 1.35oz of hops total and was very wrong. So back to using the hop spider for every brew.

Good deal. Glad to hear.

I’ve been using a hop basket for all the bittering hops. For hops added at flame out, I put them in a bag, since the basket would be in the way of the chiller. I don’t have one of the whirlpool arms yet. I put in the immersion chiller, the hops, and turn on the pump to help cooling.

 

[cayde1001]

Good deal. Glad to hear.

I’ve been using a hop basket for all the bittering hops. For hops added at flame out, I put them in a bag, since the basket would be in the way of the chiller. I don’t have one of the whirlpool arms yet. I put in the immersion chiller, the hops, and turn on the pump to help cooling.

I like the bag idea. I had to buy a small hop basket to fit inside my chiller. I have a larger one for hoppy brews but that just gets in the way of the chiller. I think I might use a bag like you mention for my next IPA.

The whirlpool arm works well, today I had no circulation and it took about 17 minutes to chill a 5g batch vs 10 minutes when I can use the arm. Sounds like you at least have something working with the pump though.

 

[Sammy86]

I started using a paint strainer bag for my hop sock...worked very well for the 6.5 oz i used last brew on my 65 L

 

[rjhoff]

Good deal. Glad to hear.

I’ve been using a hop basket for all the bittering hops. For hops added at flame out, I put them in a bag, since the basket would be in the way of the chiller. I don’t have one of the whirlpool arms yet. I put in the immersion chiller, the hops, and turn on the pump to help cooling.

I'd be interested to hear what y'all are doing for post boil hop additions. Until recently I'd add hops at flameout, whirlpool 20 mins, remove hops, then chill. Last few batches I let the wort cool (without a chiller), add hops at ~180F, continue whirlpool for ~15 mins, remove hops and chill. I've seen where guys actively chill to 180 or 170, stop chilling and set heat to hold the temp, add hops and hold 20 mins, then remove hops and chill.

Heres my questions:
• At what temperature do you add post boil hops?
• How much time is needed for the hops extraction to be near complete?
• Are you actively controlling the chiller and heat to control the extraction temperature?

 

[Sammy86]

• At what temperature do you add post boil hops?
• How much time is needed for the hops extraction to be near complete?
• Are you actively controlling the chiller and heat to control the extraction temperature?

1. 180°
2. 10-20 minutes depending on the hops
3. Chill to 180° set Brewzilla to hold that and i leave them in after while draining the kettle.

 

[rjhoff]

1. 180°
2. 10-20 minutes depending on the hops
3. Chill to 180° set Brewzilla to hold that and i leave them in after while draining the kettle.

A couple sessions ago as tried to use my chiller to get the temp down and it shot right past. JADeD Scilla. Next time I’ll use a more controlled approach, like restricting water flow as it gets close.

 

[RePete]

A couple sessions ago as tried to use my chiller to get the temp down and it shot right past. JADeD Scilla. Next time I’ll use a more controlled approach, like restricting water flow as it gets close.

I have never set heat to hold the temperature. We are told that it is important to cool the wort as soon as possible to avoid infection. But then use heat to maintain temperature? Hmmm. This is a quandary, isn’t it? I just put in my chiller, connect the hose, etc. By the time I threw in hops, it was down to 170*. It was rather cool in my garage. I just cooled it from there. Interested in opinions though.

 

[rjhoff]

I have never set heat to hold the temperature. We are told that it is important to cool the wort as soon as possible to avoid infection. But then use heat to maintain temperature? Hmmm. This is a quandary, isn’t it? I just put in my chiller, connect the hose, etc. By the time I threw in hops, it was down to 170*. It was rather cool in my garage. I just cooled it from there. Interested in opinions though.

I’ve done some long whirlpools lately trying optimize my hop additions and I don’t think it’s adversely affected my beer. I found this on byo.com:
Quickly cooling the wort also slows growth of some wort contaminants. Once the wort drops below 160° F (71° C) or so, there are many bacteria — known as wort spoilers — that can quickly grow and produce off flavors in wort. Quickly moving the wort to fermentation temperature and pitching the yeast minimizes the impact of these bacteria on your beer.

So maybe not so much a risk from boiling down to 170 deg?

 

[RePete]

162* is pasteurization temp, right?

 

[rjhoff]

162* is pasteurization temp, right?

That would be starting from cold temp, right?