In my latest YouTube video I review my custom RIMS tube stand build using superstrut as well as another mash tun modification. The RIMS system I'm using is the 12" RIMS package from Brewhardware: RIMS Package with TC heater and PID controller, prewired and ready to use. In order to limit the amount of heat loss in the tun I decided to drill a hole in the top of the cooler lid and use a CPVC extension into my recirculation manifold. This system works great for rising step mashes.
RIMS Tube Stand & Mash Tun Mod
- Thread starter Silly Yak
- Start date
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glutarded-chris
Well-Known Member
Great video. Thanks for sharing. I am in the planning stage now for changing my setup to be able to do rising mash. I am considering options such as the Grainfather or something like what you have done. The RIMS system that you are using is attractive because it is scalable and would utilize much of the equipment that I already have.
I am guessing this is what you sourced:
RIMS setup: $300 RIMS Package with TC heater and PID controller, prewired and ready to use
Pump: $150 Topsflo DC Brewing Pump with Stainless Steel Head
Sight glass $33: Flow View Light Weight Sightglass - Camlock Ports
Looks like you set up your tubing connections with cam lock disconnects.
Since you have already put some time into selecting components and testing, it would be great to get your perspective.
I am guessing this is what you sourced:
RIMS setup: $300 RIMS Package with TC heater and PID controller, prewired and ready to use
Pump: $150 Topsflo DC Brewing Pump with Stainless Steel Head
Sight glass $33: Flow View Light Weight Sightglass - Camlock Ports
Looks like you set up your tubing connections with cam lock disconnects.
Since you have already put some time into selecting components and testing, it would be great to get your perspective.
The RIMS setup and sight glass links are correct. I already had a Chugger pump I bought awhile ago so that was not something I purchased for this build. I originally created a stand for the pump only which is the wood you see at the bottom. I used this for a year just for the pump prior to adding the strut for the RIMS setup.
I have two brews in on this RIMS system - one pre-camlocks and one post-camlock install. The camlocks really do cut out a big annoyance of moving tubing off and on NPT barbs so they're worth it just for that. I'd say whether you move to cam locks, TC or quick disconnects is entirely up to you. I really like the addition of camlocks to my setup. The RIMS kit itself is a great way to augment and allow easy step mashing if you've already got separate vessels. Part of the joy I get with the hobby is creating things so I think that's why I gravitate towards these methods instead of an all-in-one system. I also agree with you that this system is very scalable and I could easily make 10 gallon batches on it if I got a larger boil kettle.
In terms of how this compares to the Grandfather I really can't speak to that as I've yet to brew on one. Everyone in the club seems to sing its praises so from that perspective I would think it's a nice unit. From what I've read it appears that some of the negatives to the Grainfather are the following: lack of strong boil unless you get the 220V version, lack of scalability, pump prone to clogging. Positives in relation to my setup would be the following: smaller footprint, automated step mashing. Maybe I'm missing something and some other Grainfather users can school me but that's how I see the differences from a high level.
glutarded-chris
Well-Known Member
Thanks!
I have a 14 gallon boil kettle, a 10 gallon kettle I use for a hot liquor kettle, and a 14 gallon conical so I have been doing brew days that produce 8 gallons of finished product. Brew days are arduous enough that I like to put as much in the fermentor as I can reasonably handle moving grain around etc. The RIMS system you are using is attractive to cut the cost of upgrade essentially in half and keep a reasonably large brew volume with the gear I have, but the Grainfather is attractive because I could more easily brew in the summer when it is so hot here in Florida. The Grainfather is also better for doing more small batches to dial in the process. However, like you, I like tinkering and making things myself, so I expect I will end up with an a la carte solution! Know thyself.
I have a 14 gallon boil kettle, a 10 gallon kettle I use for a hot liquor kettle, and a 14 gallon conical so I have been doing brew days that produce 8 gallons of finished product. Brew days are arduous enough that I like to put as much in the fermentor as I can reasonably handle moving grain around etc. The RIMS system you are using is attractive to cut the cost of upgrade essentially in half and keep a reasonably large brew volume with the gear I have, but the Grainfather is attractive because I could more easily brew in the summer when it is so hot here in Florida. The Grainfather is also better for doing more small batches to dial in the process. However, like you, I like tinkering and making things myself, so I expect I will end up with an a la carte solution! Know thyself.
glutarded-chris
Well-Known Member
So with the increased efficiency I am expecting that I could get down to about 15lb grain bill for an 8 gallon batch. With 1.5 grist ratio, I would be just shy of 6 gallons mash water. From your tests, using this, do you think the 120VAC (14A) heating element will do the job or will I struggle with long temperature change ramps?
Your video shows you were motivated to get some good insulation to achieve gelatinization temp. I currently mash in a dedicated cooler so I can do something similar to insure that the cooler is completely closed during mashing. I could convert one of my SS vessels to a mash tun, but your video suggests I might loose too much heat without some creative insulation. I would continue to mash in a cooler rather than have to insulate a SS mash tun.
Your video shows you were motivated to get some good insulation to achieve gelatinization temp. I currently mash in a dedicated cooler so I can do something similar to insure that the cooler is completely closed during mashing. I could convert one of my SS vessels to a mash tun, but your video suggests I might loose too much heat without some creative insulation. I would continue to mash in a cooler rather than have to insulate a SS mash tun.
ITV
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the informative video.
In your video, when the element fires I could hear the pump make a "different" sound as if it was running under voltage. Was this the sound from the video or was the pump sound changing? If the latter maybe try plugging the pump in a separate circuit.
I am looking to add a BrewHardware RIMS system but I may design my own controller box using an Auber easy boil controller.
In your video, when the element fires I could hear the pump make a "different" sound as if it was running under voltage. Was this the sound from the video or was the pump sound changing? If the latter maybe try plugging the pump in a separate circuit.
I am looking to add a BrewHardware RIMS system but I may design my own controller box using an Auber easy boil controller.
As you can see in the video, the Inkbird PID controller has outlets for Heat and Pump so I have both my pump and the RIMS element plugged into that controller. If I didn't do this then I would not be able to turn the pump on and off and that would defeat the purpose of it. I will tell you that yes the pump does make a slightly different sound when the element turns on but that may just be the difference in fluid dynamics with heat being applied to the liquid as it passes through the RIMS tube. It doesn't seem to be a big issue at this point.
Check out this calculator https://manskirtbrewing.com/calculators.aspx. For me doing 5 gallon batches and typically mashing with 4-5 gallons it takes around 30 minutes. Now it's winter and I just got this system. I live in Seattle where my garage is probably around 50F. Using that calculator with a 1650W element and 6 gallons you'd expect heating from 55F to 145F to take approximately 50 minutes. To me that extra 20 minutes seems like A LOT if this were for a boil kettle but not too bad for mashing. Alternatively if that seems too long you may want to see if you can use 240V via a dryer outlet if you have one and doing the calculations on a 5500W!!! element it would take approximately 15 minutes to ramp from 55F to 145F which is insanely quick. From my perspective I actually like the slower temperature build in my mash as there's less likelihood of enzymes being denatured and you get a nice sweep at some other temperatures that may be beneficial in starch conversion.
ITV
Well-Known Member
Would it make sense to add insulation to the RIMS tube? I'm assuming that it gets very warm.
I haven't touched it yet LOL. I've honestly watched a ton of RIMS tube videos and have yet to see one insulated. I guess you could do that if necessary. Really I think the main point of heat loss is the tubing between RIMS tube/pump/tun. I plan on shortening those up as much as possible to reduce heat loss.
ITV
Well-Known Member
If the tubing is silicone it would retain heat better than a stainless pipe.
To me the RIMS tube would act as a heat sink which would benifit from insulation, although most likely minor in the grand scheme.
Yes silicone tubing and I'm happy with the time it takes to ramp up so I'll skip additional insulation on my system. FWIW here's an old thread talking about RIMS tube insulation: Insulate your RIMS tube?
glutarded-chris
Well-Known Member
Every little bit could matter, but the surface area of that RIMS tube is so small compared to the mash tun I cannot imagine that is a big factor at all.
Thanks. I am sure that is a basic heat balance assuming ideal insulated conditions and then applying "vessel heat retention" which we have no idea what value to pick. Personally I would put more stock in your test.
I like your comment regarding the slower rise being better for the enzymes. I always wondered about the compact circulation heating configuration raising the circulation temperature to denaturing temperatures. Less agressive heating is probably better. I expect I will dough in at the first rest , so the real temperature increases will be smaller deltas from there. I think the 120VAC will do just fine as you suggest. If I were boiling with it, I would move up to the 240 supply for sure.
Thanks. I am sure that is a basic heat balance assuming ideal insulated conditions and then applying "vessel heat retention" which we have no idea what value to pick. Personally I would put more stock in your test.
I like your comment regarding the slower rise being better for the enzymes. I always wondered about the compact circulation heating configuration raising the circulation temperature to denaturing temperatures. Less agressive heating is probably better. I expect I will dough in at the first rest , so the real temperature increases will be smaller deltas from there. I think the 120VAC will do just fine as you suggest. If I were boiling with it, I would move up to the 240 supply for sure.
