RIMs Question

[BrewSpook]

So I am in the process of putting together my RIMs setup - scored a really nice Little Giant pump on ebay and waiting for some new head parts to arrive.

Went to the local big box for another project and found the pipe I need, but in galvanized steel - don't know much about the makeup and couldn't find a thread talking about its use in homebrewing.

It says its rated for cold and hot potable water - is there any reason it can't be used in homebrewing?

 

[Hermit]

So I am in the process of putting together my RIMs setup - scored a really nice Little Giant pump on ebay and waiting for some new head parts to arrive.

Went to the local big box for another project and found the pipe I need, but in galvanized steel - don't know much about the makeup and couldn't find a thread talking about its use in homebrewing.

It says its rated for cold and hot potable water - is there any reason it can't be used in homebrewing?

Galvanized rated for cold and hot potable water? I've seen it used in old homes and rusts pretty badly. I saw a washing machine get screwed up in under 6 months from the sediment. This was really old piping, but I'd say stay away from it.

 

[Sawdustguy]

Galvanized pipe would not be my first choice. I have heard of the potential to have some zinc leech in to your wort. I honestly don't know much zinc could find it's way into the wort over what period of time but I am not one to take a chance with my health. A copper RIMS tube could be fashioned at not too great of an expense.

 

[wgbanks]

I am sure there are health issue associated with galvanized, at least in my own mind, that would negate it's use for me but from a design/build stand point fabrication with copper will be much easier, again "IMHO". Copper can be cut to exact lengths and sweating fittings is easier than it looks. Galvanied pipe is usually retailed in precut lengths because of the threading process. Threading a piece of galvanized pipe to custom length will require multpile trips to the hardware store or the purchase of a costly pipe theading machine, neither make for a fun project. Sweating copper can be fun, it will be nicer to look at, fittings and tubing diameters retail in a variety of shapes and configurations.

 

[Brewers Hardware]

Don't use iron pipe at all, galvanized or not. Yes, it is safe for potable water, but that's because the pH is usually pretty close to neutral. The acidic wort and mash will quickly leach metal flavors into our beer.

I don't think you;d have to worry about zinc poisoning because I don't think you'd be able to get enough of the metal beer down!

Go with copper or stainless.

 

[BrewSpook]

Yeah I have been looking at stainless, I was just hoping I could use the galvanized since it was locally accessible. For those of you that have done it, what is the ideal size of pipe for the heater unit? I have seen folks with anywhere from 1 to 2 inch diameter and anywhere from 8 inches to 2ft in length for the pipe.

 

[Brewers Hardware]

I'm working on an all stainless RIMS tube that will be 2" diameter by about 14" tube length. That'll fit most off-the-shelf LWD elements I've seen. It'll have a SS float switch to be wired in series with your SSR to prevent it from heating a tube that's not flooded, a thermowell on the outlet end to measure effluent temp and the whole thing will disassemble via Tri-Clover fittings so it couldn't be easier to clean. I'm almost done with the prototype. It won't be cheap but it will sure be nice. It will have tri-clover in/out. Target price will be about $160 with all the clamps and Teflon gaskets but no element.

 

[BrewSpook]

Sounds sweet... If you get it out soon make sure to let me know - I might be in for one, that would save me the headache of trying to piece one together. For some reason you can never find everything you need from one store.

 

[Brewers Hardware]

I'm about 90% done with the prototype but close enough for a few pictures. This is what it'll look like:

The disassembled tube. My little camera bent the tube!

The wort inlet is just sitting there and not welded in since the tube itself is only tacked up.

Shows the outlow cap including SS float switch to prevent your element from dry firing and the thermowell to monitor outflow temp.

Here's the outflow end of of it.

 

[churdbird]

Looks Great! Simple yet extreamly effective, I like it.

Where's your source for the tube and tri'-fittings?

 

[paledragon]

that's pretty sweet looking. a couple of comments:

- assuming it's mounted vertically, is there anyway to completely drain it besides undoing the triclamp? there will be liquid trapped between the inlet and heating element.

- any plans to make one that can be horizontally mounted (i.e. both the inlet and outlet mounted on the tube on opposite sides)?

p.d.

 

[Brewers Hardware]

that's pretty sweet looking. a couple of comments:

- assuming it's mounted vertically, is there anyway to completely drain it besides undoing the triclamp? there will be liquid trapped between the inlet and heating element.

- any plans to make one that can be horizontally mounted (i.e. both the inlet and outlet mounted on the tube on opposite sides)?

p.d.

Good comments!

- Yes it is designed to be mounted vertically. I assumed the best way to clean it was to remove the caps anyway so I wasn't concerned about liquid being trapped. I also assumed you'd run your sparge water through it to make sure no wort was left behind.

- I hadn't planned on making a horizontal specific version since the float arrangement gets complicated. However, with a Tri-Clover tee, you could cap the end and clamp the outlet cap to the tee and arrange it vertically for a horizontal install.

 

[paledragon]

apologies for the quasi-hijack of the thread.

one more question. the end cap where the element screws in, will this be straight thread or NPT? i have yet to get an element to fit into an NPT fitting. straight threads would pretty much sell me on one of these.

p.d.

 

[Brewers Hardware]

apologies for the quasi-hijack of the thread.

one more question. the end cap where the element screws in, will this be straight thread or NPT? i have yet to get an element to fit into an NPT fitting. straight threads would pretty much sell me on one of these.

p.d.

Yeah, I didn't really mean to hijack this thread either, but it is all still talk to the OP's question. Sorry though.

The prototype has NPT threads but my intention is to re-tap the coupler with straight threads as I get them rolling. There is a #8 stud for grounding the element cap as well.

 

[paledragon]

you think it would cheaper/easier to just weld on a SS 1" locknut instead of retapping the NPT thread of the coupler?

 

[Brewers Hardware]

you think it would cheaper/easier to just weld on a SS 1" locknut instead of retapping the NPT thread of the coupler?

In the total expense of this part it wouldn't make that big of a difference, it would sure be easier though. I'd thought of just threading the cap since it's .250" thick it would be plenty. However, The 1/2 coupler gets the element away from the cap and provides clearance for the clamp and whatever box/cover the user wants to put on their element. A nut would bring it in closer where there wouldn't be room for any option other than an epoxy PVC cap.

 

[polecreek]

You might consider copper. I found a 2" piece about 18" long at a scrap yard. The fittings were the pricey part,but I think it would be cheaper than stainless and easier to work with. I have been using it for a year now with no problems and I have not grown a third arm yet.

 

[BrewSpook]

Derrin - your setup looks really nice. Can't wait to hear how the whole things turns out. If you need someone to "Beta test" one for you - let me know. hehehe

I have also been looking at copper options, while more cost effective I have been having a problem figuring out exactly what pieces I would need to make one up - as copper fittings are pretty straight forward in design it seem like you would need several fittings on the inlet side all joined together. Not that its an issue, but it seems like alot of connections and multiple failure points on one end.

I imagined it would be something like this:
1" female pipe fitting adapter for the element followed by a 1 x 1 x 1/2 tee to connect the 1 inch adapter to the main pipe with a 1/2" inlet.
A 1/2 female adapter for the inlet on the tee to screw a 1/2" barbed end in
The 1" pipe for the main heating tube
another 1x1x1/2 tee, another 1" female adapter for the thermocouple
1/2" female adapter for outlet followed by another 1/2" barb

Does that sound right or am I making it way too complicated?