RIMS Kit

[exc503]

I have been doing some research and am thinking of heading down the road of a RIMS tube. I am thinking something like a ~1600w 120v, I plan on still using my burner to heat strike water, so it will really be more to maintain temp, and maybe bring it up the final few degrees. I currently use a Cooler mash tun.

I have been doing endless searching for a complete kit for just the tube portion, with the element enclosure, with very little luck.

Does anybody know of any suppliers that has this. I was thinking of a 2" tube so that I have the ability to upgrade elements should i decide to ditch the burners for heating strike and for the boil.

 

[JDXX1971]

These guys have what you want. Look under Beer Brewing- Brewing equipment.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...txSKSymEm4_1vBfqqhe8XQ&bvm=bv.147448319,d.cGw

 

[TallDan]

??
https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1893.htm

 

[JDXX1971]

Here is another 2" RIMS tube

https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-RIMS-Tube-RIMS20.html

 

[augiedoggy]

or you can just use 1"stainless pipe and pipe fittings and make your own for $100 or less . your choice.. TC fittings are nice but there really not all that useful or practical on the hot side of things either..

 

[exc503]

Thank you all, The norcal and brewers hardware ones look like what i was looking for in a kit. I had actually come across the Brewers hardware one before, a couple of weeks ago, but could seem to get back to it or remember the website, or search terms.

 

[jwelch1103]

There's brewershardware and brewhardware dot com. Both reputable merchants but I'd gravitate toward brewhardware myself. I've ordered from both fwiw.
Just my two cents.

 

[drgonzo2k2]

I'm actually building a setup very similar to yours right now, using a burner to heat strike water and do the boil, but using a 120V RIMS to maintain mash temp and do a no-sparge, full volume, continuous recirculation mash.

I also struggled to find a complete setup for the RIMS tube portion, that was both reasonably priced and did not require me to wire anything together myself.

Then I saw the thread about Jaybird's Thrifty RIMS kit, and I was stoked!

Unfortunately by the time I had gotten around to purchasing it, the heating element had gone out of stock

Chatted with Jay, and it turns out his distributor stopped carrying the element, and I couldn't locate anywhere else in the US (or that would ship to the US) that had them, although it turns out they are quite popular in Australia.

After much searching I wound up going with this 1500 watt Element from William's, and then just purchased the rest of the parts to build the tube from Jay, asking him to drill the tri-clover cap to 7/8" instead of the 1.25" that was required for his element.

I did not use the controller from Jay's site, by the way, but instead went with the Bräu Supply 120V EZ Boil controller.

I don't have everything put together yet, but am hoping I get it done next weekend!

 

[exc503]

I am looking at the brewhardware one now, it seems like a nice kit, just add the element. I have an ITC-1000 I'm hoping i can make that work as the temp controller with the element and leave the pump running, or just build a relay box for those two parts to be switched together for the time being. Not sure when ill have it all together. Hopefully sooner rather than later.

It seems the only really efficient way to go full electric is to go 240v and I would rather not do that.

 

[drgonzo2k2]

The Brew Hardware one does look like a good kit. That's what I was going to go with before I found Jay's setup.

In the end I really like not having to wire anything up, and I already had all the fittings, etc., so I couldn't justify the cost of the Brew Hardware one.

I don't think you want to switch off the pump in your setup, otherwise you're going to wind up with different temps in various parts of your mash. You should keep it running at a low rate, and let the element switch on and off as needed.

Please keep in mind that an ITC-1000 isn't really suited for a situation like this, where you'll want to switch the element on and off a lot, and in rapid succession. It will work, but it will fail on you much earlier than going with a PID and SSR setup.

Good luck with your setup!

 

[exc503]

Yea I dont really intend it to be a long term solution, its an interim until i get a controller setup. Have to piece it together under budget and without upsetting SWMBO. lol. PID and SSR's will be down the road.

 

[augiedoggy]

As drgonzo2k2 mentioned using the itc-1000 with its mechanical relay this way will very likely cause the relay contacts to either burn up or fuse closed possibly in a very short time. Just be prepared for this to possibly happen and then its going to cost you that controller as well as something to replace it.. This is one of the main reasons SSR switches exist instead. The good news is, since its only 120v your looking to use. You or someone handy, can build a bare bones cheap pid controller for like $50-60.

 

[exc503]

I'm going to start piecing a PID together soon.