RIMS Element Question

[Dubchedford]

Hello everyone, I'm in the process of building my electric setup. I'm building a 50A panel to drive 3 elements. A 5500w HLT, a 5500w BK, and a RIMS tube. I'm trying to figure out what element to run in my RIMS tube. I want to be able to do step mashes in a reasonable amount of time, but I want to avoid scorching wort. I've seen some 1500w ULWD elements, but I'm not sure if that is enough power step mash. Thanks for your help.

 

[dlaramie08]

You might think about getting a 240v element and running it at 120. That'll help prevent scorching and it will still have enough power to do step mashes. Depending on your flow rate you'll most likely get a temp change of 1 degree per minute.

 

[augiedoggy]

another option if you want to stick with 240v is a cartridge heater... I used a 24" cartridge heater whih is all stainless and super easy to clean being a single rod...
here is a link to a 30" long one similar to what I used...I mounted the base in a compression fitting ...
Its more work but easier maintenance and an option if you only have 3 wire power to your panel... you can find them for as leittle as $20 and you dont need really long ones but the longer the lower watt density which is better to prevent scorching.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chromalox-C...c9cab88&pid=100033&rk=2&rkt=2&sd=251817249008

 

[JoshuaW]

I'm building mine with a 5500w 240v element that will be run at 120v, but have the option to switch to 240v. I'm anticipating one degree a minute of rise. Ideally it would be a little more, but I think it will work.

 

[augiedoggy]

BTW I can step mash with my low wattage 1000w rims setup.... Ideally If I build another I will look for a longer heat rod with a bit more wattage to work a bit faster and still keep the watt density just as low... but I can get 2 degree rise per minute with my current setup. flow speed and contact time in the rims is key here..

 

[Dubchedford]

The cartridge heater is a very interesting idea. I may need to look into that further. I was looking at some of Bobby_M's new elements. He has a 12 inch 1500w element that is considered ULWD. augiedoggy if your able to step mash with a 1000w, then 1500w should be adequate right?

 

[stlbeer]

I use a ULWD 2000 watt element. Works great. Allows me to run all elements (4500w HLT & BK) and do back to back brews. 2000w at 240v uses fewer amps.

 

[Dubchedford]

I use a ULWD 2000 watt element. Works great. Allows me to run all elements (4500w HLT & BK) and do back to back brews. 2000w at 240v uses fewer amps.

stlbeer, where did you get your element from? I've had trouble finding a 2000w ULWD element.

 

[branman]

I use 5500 lwd wired as 120v. Haven't scorched yet and when I did the math it comes out to about 1375 watts (Might be off a little but not much).

 

[JoshuaW]

The cartridge heater is a very interesting idea. I may need to look into that further. I was looking at some of Bobby_M's new elements. He has a 12 inch 1500w element that is considered ULWD. augiedoggy if your able to step mash with a 1000w, then 1500w should be adequate right?

Augie has the benefit of having a really, really long tube. Like 24". His wort is in contact with the element a lot more, so he can step mash better with lower power.

Bobby_M's new 1500w element is probably fine. Its 12", which is half the length of Augie's, and I would expect about 1*/min of rise. Again, you dont have the contact time that Augie does. I would also like to note that while the 1500w element is ULWD, you can go lower buy using the 12" 5500w foldback element at 120v. About the same wattage, but lower density.

eBrewsupply also has an interesting eleement. It is a 6000w element. If you ran that at 120v, you should get 1500w, and it is 22" long, so you would get a lot of contact time, like Augie's system. I would expect similar numbers (or better) when comparing it to Augie's, so probably 2* rise minimum. Of course, eBrewsupply is a little overpriced on most things, so chances are you can get a cartridge heater like Augie is using for less.

 

[stlbeer]

stlbeer, where did you get your element from? I've had trouble finding a 2000w ULWD element.

Sorry for the delay, been out of town working.

P-J suggested I get the element from Bostonheating.com. Here's the link: http://www.comfortgurus.com/product_info.php/cPath/581_602_603/products_id/7052 which is still good.

Seems I misspoke. The element is LWD, not ULWD. Still, I've used it for over 40 brews in 3 years and haven't had any problems with it. I have a SS pipe type RIMS tube and open it up every 8-10 brews. Never had any problems with it. Even dry fired it a couple of times. I do have to clean and inspect after dry firing.

 

[augiedoggy]

Augie has the benefit of having a really, really long tube. Like 24". His wort is in contact with the element a lot more, so he can step mash better with lower power.

Bobby_M's new 1500w element is probably fine. Its 12", which is half the length of Augie's, and I would expect about 1*/min of rise. Again, you dont have the contact time that Augie does. I would also like to note that while the 1500w element is ULWD, you can go lower buy using the 12" 5500w foldback element at 120v. About the same wattage, but lower density.

eBrewsupply also has an interesting eleement. It is a 6000w element. If you ran that at 120v, you should get 1500w, and it is 22" long, so you would get a lot of contact time, like Augie's system. I would expect similar numbers (or better) when comparing it to Augie's, so probably 2* rise minimum. Of course, eBrewsupply is a little overpriced on most things, so chances are you can get a cartridge heater like Augie is using for less.

I actually have been eyeballing the 30" elements on ebay right now for the very reason you mentioned, I find longer rims = longer contact time at less of a temp differential between the element and wort which is even less likely to denature enzymes .
mine works great but you know how some of us love to tinker and are never happy

So far my element has stayed completely clean after flushing with water except the one time I accidentally dry fired it (which is why I just added my $11 flow switch to kill the element now once flow is stopped to the rims.)