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I wont be able to today, but I'll try to get my manifold diagrammed as well. The one thing we love about my system is its on a 50 amp service and can brew in parallel.

As soon as we get the wort to the BK and finish sparging, we can clean out the mash tun, get strike water ready, and mash a second beer while the first beer is in the BK. We're usually able to complete two 5 gallon batches in ~4:30.

Not sure I'd be able to use sizzs method of sparging, though it is clever, because we use both pumps at the same time for two different beers. It does make for a slow sparge though.
 
I wont be able to today, but I'll try to get my manifold diagrammed as well. The one thing we love about my system is its on a 50 amp service and can brew in parallel.

As soon as we get the wort to the BK and finish sparging, we can clean out the mash tun, get strike water ready, and mash a second beer while the first beer is in the BK. We're usually able to complete two 5 gallon batches in ~4:30.

Not sure I'd be able to use sizzs method of sparging, though it is clever, because we use both pumps at the same time for two different beers. It does make for a slow sparge though.

That would be great. To make two brews that is sweet
 
Hey Sizz, how are you liking the on-demand RIMS after a few years of use? I'm just starting on my build and considering a similar system for strike/sparge water:

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/its-time-hybrid-rims-herms-ebuild-327669/

Are you able to consistently hit your temps after the water has settled in the mash tun? My biggest concern is tuning the heating element (I also have a BCS).
 
Sizz sold this system to me a bit over a year ago. I've been rebuilding it and just put up a pic while running a leak test. I've simplified the fluid paths a bit and am using one pump instead of two. When I'm ready to run the wort chiller, I move one of the pump inlets from the mash liquor tun to the CFC output.

The trickiest part is controlling the temperature in the MLT, which wants to get way too hot with the 5500 watt ULWD element in the RIMS. I'm considering going to a lower wattage element - any comments?

I guess at this point I should become un-lazy and start a new thread for this - since I've taken the whole thing apart and put it back together with a bin of extra NPT fittings left over, I finally feel like it's really mine :)
 
A friend of mine has agreed to weld a mounting bracket for the new RIMS to the frame for me, and while we're at it we're going to remove the particle board from the top and add some pieces of angle iron to make a frame to support the MLT and the BK.

I'm also toying with mounting re-orienting the one pump so I can place the RIMS in between the two vessels.
 
I push pretty fast on my two vessel system and I don't have any problems with scorching while re-circ mashing. However, I did add a 110/220v On/Off/On switch to both 220v outlets on my box for both my RIMS tube and my BK. If you were worried about the element being too hot during re-circ, you could explore that.

Also, I'm not sure you'll be able to sparge on demand with less than a 5500v element, right?
 
Another friend just got a 3D printer Printrbot Plus and has agreed to print me a mounting bracket for the RIMS! It should have a clip section to hook over the angle iron of the stand, and a curved section to hold the RIMS, which will be mounted horizontally. Holding the Brewers Hardware RIMS would involve two of these, one for each of the main sections. We'll try to design the mount wide enough that the element chamber screw-on section clears the frame. I should be able to post a link to the design once it's done and will definitely let you know how it goes.

I'll have to move the pump to accommodate mounting the RIMS horizontally, but I'm only using one pump so I could either move it down to the bottom of the frame, or just use the 2nd pump and remove the 1st one entirely.
 
One thing to think about... I'm in the testing phase of a similar two vessel RIMS system. When I tried to mount my RIMS horizontal and heat tap water up to sparge temp, I had a harder time maintaining a constant temp. I think steam was building up along the tube and I may have been partially "dry firing" the element. I'm going to compromise and mount my RIMS at an angle.

That doesn't mean your's won't work. Just test it completely before mounting it permanently.
 
I'll definitely test it before it's permanent. That's one advantage of the 3D printing route - it's just extruded plastics and if it doesn't work out how you envisioned, melt it down and print another.

Do you have any more details about your set-up and how it didn't work out? How did you mount it at an angle?
 
Gotta love plastics I guess. :)

I've only tested the MLT/RIMS side of my system. Part of the problem is setting aside extra time to do an all-grain batch vs extract. Once I actually brew with it I'll probably need to tweak things.

Right now my RIMS is to the left of my MLT. The outlet of the RIMS is hard plumbed with 1/2" stainless tubing to the back of the MLT and it's angled forward. It's resting near its inlet on the front rail of my brew stand. If this works, I think I'll weld a bracket to the rail to hold it.
 
The trickiest part is controlling the temperature in the MLT, which wants to get way too hot with the 5500 watt ULWD element in the RIMS. I'm considering going to a lower wattage element - any comments?

I'm not familiar with the BCS, but with an Auber PID, you can scale the Output High Limit down, which would solve your issue, but prevent you from heating on demand sparge water, so it would have to be switchable. Although, if the PID algorithm is tuned properly, you shouldn't be overshooting your set points, so that would be the first thing to check.
 
Im looking for a parts list but i know this threads pretty old . I was really looking for the element in the rims tube. anybody know?
 
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