Rig question, Valve and Controller

[dgc2656]

I plan on using 3 high pressure Banjo/Hurricane burners and pilot lighting 2 of them each with Honeywell VR8200A2124, a kit on ebay sells for $64.25. The controllers I am going to use are Ranco ETC-111000-000 which I can get for around $45-50. I am looking for an electric gas valve to operate the burners.

Asco SC8210G37's are not being made anymore and also the ones I have seen are just too expensive for my tastes. I'm looking for valves which will work well with the parts I have listed. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[VladOfTrub]

"I am looking for an electric gas valve to operate the burners."

The Honeywell is a 24 volt, standing pilot, valve. The valve will operate the burners. Wire in the controllers to the valve terminals, to cycle the burners on temp. You'll need a pilot assy., thermocouple and a 24 volt power source, to make it all work. If you're using LP, you'll need to install the conv. kit in the valve and in the pilot assy.. It's a very safe valve. If the pilot blows out or gets drowned. The valve won't open. Good luck.

 

[dgc2656]

Oops, it looks like I leaped before I looked in two ways. Thanks Vlad for the info, but it doesn't look as if the Honeywells will work. The Banjo burners are high pressure, my supply propane is high pressure but the Honeywells are low pressure (3.5 WC another way of saying 1/2psi). I also thought that the pilot light and the burner were going to be supplied from 2 different locations as in the Brutus Ten design.

So I guess what I need is a valve and pilot light assembly very much like the Honeywell which will work with high pressure propane and high pressure burners.

 

[VladOfTrub]

3.5 wc is what the valve is set at for NG, the pressure that works in most residential heating equipment like furnaces and boilers. That's the way it comes out of the box. I use the same valve but on NG. The main line NG pressure after the reg. is 8" wc feeding the valve. The reg. in the valve drops it down to 3-4". The reg in the valve is adjustable to a point. I use Blichman burners (70K) and with the Honeywell valve, I still need to lower the gas pressure at the burner inlet, using the manual valve that Blichman provides, or the flame comes up the sides of the boilers. LP is generally adjusted to 10-12" wc. at the burner. The Honeywell valve will do 200K with a certain cv, regardless of the gas used. I think the banjo is 200K. You'll need some kind of main line reg. to drop the LP pressure and to keep it constant, whether, using the Honeywell or ASCO. If you're leaning toward the ASCO. You'd need a Baso pilot safety switch and pilot assy., with a thermocouple, or something similar. You'd need to wire the safety through the temp controller, then to the main valve. If the pilot goes out, the safety opens. Probably the way the Brutus thing works. Good luck with your build.

 

[bucfanmike]

dgc, you can use the honeywells and banjos on low pressure. You would throw in low pressure regulator coming off you lp supply. You will have to change the orifice in the burner, they are about $5 each, or you can drill out the high pressure orifice that is currently in your burners.

 

[JuanMoore]

IMO your best option is to convert the burners to low pressure as bucfanmike suggested. There are other ways to accomplish your goal, but the only ones that I know of are either significantly more expensive, or significantly less safe.