Request for Induction Equipment Information

[wobdee]

What is you experience with the IC3500 and your Megapot? Do you only get the 5" center ring to boil or does the 9" outer ring kick in on yours?

I have a similar pot, the 8 gallon MoreBeer HeavyDuty also with a tri-ply bottom. I only get heat from the center 5". Is that really 3500W being generated in that little circle?

Here are the results of my IC3500's maiden voyage.

Mine is the same as yours, there is about a 5-6" ring at the bottom of my kettle where you can see the boil start but once it gets going the whole kettle has a nice rolling boil.

I brew 3 gal batches so the pre boil amount is 4-5 gal and if i boil at full power its way to strong and splashes wort out of the pot. 2700w setting seems to give me a good controlled rolling boil.

 

[sumbrewindude]

Sooooo - went to put the IC1800 up in the cabinet and it sounds like a maraca. I work with enough high powered electronics to know when something has let loose inside, and it definitely sounds like something plastic has let go and is rattling around. Either way, all brewing/testing this weekend is canceled from here out.

Websturant store's got an email, and I'm bummed.

 

[IslandLizard]

Mine is the same as yours, there is about a 5-6" ring at the bottom of my kettle where you can see the boil start but once it gets going the whole kettle has a nice rolling boil.

I brew 3 gal batches so the pre boil amount is 4-5 gal and if i boil at full power its way to strong and splashes wort out of the pot. 2700w setting seems to give me a good controlled rolling boil.

Thank you for the speedy feedback. I am very interested in other user's findings. I'm puzzled why the 10" outer ring doesn't kick in.

I measured the 2 rings on the plate and they are actually 6" and 10" diameter respectively, on the outside markings.

Trying to find dedicated cookware useful for induction around the house and test things out. I doubt the graniteware enameled 4-5 gallon steel canning pot will hold up. My enameled cast iron pots are not quite wide enough to cover 10".

I do have a large, 15" wide deep dish pizza pan which is chrome plated steel from what I can tell. I'm going to run a test with that to see if the outer ring is being used.

Typically I do 7 gallon full boils in the 8 gallon pot but with only an inch of headspace it is a bit close to the edge, particularly when it boils wildly or there are boil surges, or when adding hops.

So lately I've been boiling a second, 2 gallon pot at the same time with 2nd and 3rd runnings wort. It gives me the extra gallon in the end, to top off the main kettle after 60-90 minutes. They get blended together before flameout and whirlpool/hop stand additions. Whatever wort is left over after draining and filtering the trub out goes in a gallon jar for more "experimental" beers.

 

[IslandLizard]

Sooooo - went to put the IC1800 up in the cabinet and it sounds like a maraca. I work with enough high powered electronics to know when something has let loose inside, and it definitely sounds like something plastic has let go and is rattling around. Either way, all brewing/testing this weekend is canceled from here out.

Websturant store's got an email, and I'm bummed.

Damn, that IS a bummer! Give it a bit of a shake, inverting it too. Maybe something simply got stuck in the fan blades.

I hope they handle your claim as well as their pricing and shipping.

 

[sumbrewindude]

IslandLizard - oh it's definitely something larger than just a small piece of plastic. It's large enough that I can see it through the back of the grill grates and would probably get stuck in the fan if I powered on. Not taking any chances - I'll see what the folks at Webstaraunt Store have to say.

I got an email back this morning already from them, pretty awesome for a holiday weekend IMO, and they're trying to figure out what the best course of action is - either way I'll be getting a new IC1800, just comes down to when/how.

 

[sammy33]

Sooooo - went to put the IC1800 up in the cabinet and it sounds like a maraca. I work with enough high powered electronics to know when something has let loose inside, and it definitely sounds like something plastic has let go and is rattling around. Either way, all brewing/testing this weekend is canceled from here out.

Websturant store's got an email, and I'm bummed.

Is it like a loose wire touching the fan or something else? I know you have watched, waited and researched your choice for induction. Man that stinks. Drinking a cold one for you tonight!

 

[hiphopperforever]

Will the bayou classic 1060 series work, or does it have to be the 1064 series?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VXD94A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[geoffm33]

Will the bayou classic 1060 series work, or does it have to be the 1064 series?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VXD94A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I read in another thread that "all" BC pots are induction capable. They certainly are not all magnetic however. But my non magnetic 1044 works just fine. Hopefully some one else has that pot that can confirm.

 

[Hello]

Is the experience thus far that boil off is very very low? Like .50 to .75 per hour?

Yesterday I brought 7.85 gallons to 164 in my Bayou Classic 1044 (it's the valve version of the 10 gallon pot).

I pumped that to my MLT, which upon doing so, I lost about 4 degrees of heat so I stopped the pump, turned on the kettle again and heated to about 170 quickly to offset heat loss. I mashed in, pumped back to the kettle (did no sparge) and as soon as I had 2 gallons in the pot, I turned the burner on to 2700. I got my boil volume which ended up being 6 gallons; I was aiming for 5.96 so this is good. I had a "duh" moment with my new pump and proceeded to dump .25 gallons of wort on my floor because sticky wort on my floor is the best, and turned the burner up to 3500.

From my 1 gallon and my failed 5 gallon batch (last Friday) I knew I had to literally plant myself next to the burner, and I did. Some short time passed and suddenly the wort was at the top waiting to boil over. Quickly turned the heat down to 800, sprayed my wort so it would calm down, and I came back up to about 2000 (I believe these are the increments). When I was comfortable, I went to 2400 then 2700 and I stuck at 2700 with a very nice rolling boil.

I boiled with what I call a consistent rolling boil for 60 minutes and lost about .50 - .75 gallons to boil off. I figure .25 on the floor, .25 left behind in the pump tubes and trub, .75 boil off = 4.75 in my fermenter.

Does that boil off sound about right? Unfortunately, I didn't time my boil times, I was busy with the new pump and such but I turned the burner on at 1:28 pm and I was chilling my wort just after 5.

I also love how easily this thing cleans up. I have dripped wort down the sides and worried a lot. It seems to clean right up. I do have a ring on the bottom of my pot as well. I will snap a pic of it in a bit.

 

[Weezy]

Finally got my pot in, hope to run some tests tonight for the small batch crew.

INITIAL DATA:

• Induction Burner: AVANTCO 1800W
• Model # of Kettle: CONCORD 26Qt Tall
• Batch Size: 3GAL

Using 3gal starting volume, non-insulated kettle, lid on to boil, settings as marked:
Setting 15 (Max)
Time/Temp
0 min / 72.2F
15min / 111F
30min / 156F
45min / 197F
52min / 212F

Minimal boil off, rolling surface boil, setting #13, 210F.
Minimal boil off, fast rolling surface boil setting #14, 211F.

• Heats 3GAL gals to mash temps in 33 mins (160F strike)
• Heats 3GAL from mash (175F) to boil (212F) in 15 mins

Still seeing what my boil off is so I can perform a full volume boil for 3gal, and then I'll post new numbers with insulation.

Thanks for the post. I wanted that pot but I asked the eBay vendor if it was induction ready and he said no. Since its 18/10 stainless it very well may not have been.

 

[IslandLizard]

Is the experience thus far that boil off is very very low? Like .50 to .75 per hour?

Yesterday I brought 7.85 gallons to 164 in my Bayou Classic 1044 (it's the valve version of the 10 gallon pot).

I pumped that to my MLT, which upon doing so, I lost about 4 degrees of heat so I stopped the pump, turned on the kettle again and heated to about 170 quickly to offset heat loss. I mashed in, pumped back to the kettle (did no sparge) and as soon as I had 2 gallons in the pot, I turned the burner on to 2700. I got my boil volume which ended up being 6 gallons; I was aiming for 5.96 so this is good. I had a "duh" moment with my new pump and proceeded to dump .25 gallons of wort on my floor because sticky wort on my floor is the best, and turned the burner up to 3500.

From my 1 gallon and my failed 5 gallon batch (last Friday) I knew I had to literally plant myself next to the burner, and I did. Some short time passed and suddenly the wort was at the top waiting to boil over. Quickly turned the heat down to 800, sprayed my wort so it would calm down, and I came back up to about 2000 (I believe these are the increments). When I was comfortable, I went to 2400 then 2700 and I stuck at 2700 with a very nice rolling boil.

I boiled with what I call a consistent rolling boil for 60 minutes and lost about .50 - .75 gallons to boil off. I figure .25 on the floor, .25 left behind in the pump tubes and trub, .75 boil off = 4.75 in my fermenter.

Does that boil off sound about right? Unfortunately, I didn't time my boil times, I was busy with the new pump and such but I turned the burner on at 1:28 pm and I was chilling my wort just after 5.

I also love how easily this thing cleans up. I have dripped wort down the sides and worried a lot. It seems to clean right up. I do have a ring on the bottom of my pot as well. I will snap a pic of it in a bit.

Last night, during my first time brew with the IC3500, I estimate boiling off at least a gallon during the 75' boil. I'd say 25% less than I'm used to on the stove. I posted a more detailed report in the other IC3500 thread.

You're fortunate, your 10 gallon kettle has a lot more net headspace than my 8 gallon MoreBeer one. What were they thinking designing such a weird under-sized pot? Extract/partial mash perhaps? At least it will last a life time and then some. The triple-ply bottom helps to prevent scorching, and redistribute the heat, although I do give it a good stir every now and then. I guess it's habit from the extract days.

"Sticky wort on my floor is the best..." Very funny! No good brewday is complete without. Not sure if this method is much better. In one of my first AG brews I managed to leave the kettle valve open while dumping in my first runnings. Luckily I had my HLT still underneath filled with 4 gallons of sparge water... I discovered the error fast from the sound it made, but by the time I could close the valve I had diluted at least a gallon of 1.090 wort into sparge. Still made the OG, and the beer came out fine.

 

[LabRatBrewer]

1800W Avantco and the Chefmate 20qt

Start 75f 3 Gallons Water (lid on until boil)
1 min 76f
5 min 91f
10 min 104f
15 min 118f
20 min 130f
25 min 145f
30 min 155f
40 min 185f
50 min 207f
55 Boil

No problem keeping rapid boil no lid.

 

[sumbrewindude]

Man there must have been something up with the first unit I had. I'm doing my first 4gal boil with the same pot, new unit, and this thing is just rocking out. I'm boiling 4gal on setting 11 and I'm still getting burps in the middle.

So far I'm loving electric. :rockin:

 

[brettwasbtd]

Great info and thanks for starting this Geoff. I have just created a similar thread to try and get more info on venting. I know it is largely dependent on peoples setup, but I would appreciate it if you all could take the time to add your knowledge to this thread: Request for Steam Ventillation Information

 

[LeapingLamb]

Hi,
I know that this is an old thread but after days of searching for more information about induction heating.

I want to build a 15 gal eHERMS using 3 100qt stainless steel stockpots. What I want to know is, if I get the aavantco 3500w 240v model for my HLT and boil kettle. Would the avantco bring 20-25 gallon preboil wort from let's say 160 to a boil in a reasonable time like less than 30 mins? Does anyone have any input on this or tried it? How about from 65 to 160 in my HLT?

The reason I am asking is that i am allowed to buy the pots but am not allowed to drill holes in them as they would loose their resale value. Hence I am planning a herms system without the need of drilling holes at least not in all 3 pots. I want to make sure I am not spending a lot of money if having a submerged 5500w element would work a lot faster.

To summarize for 15 gal batches should I use induction or resistance heating?

Thanks in advance


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[AnOldUR]

The reason I am asking is that i am . . . not allowed to drill holes in them as they would loose their resale value.

Curious. Why are you building that large a system if you're not sure you want to brew?


But that aside, I can get 12 gallon to a boil with an insulated 62 quart pot, but I think that much more than that would be a stretch.

 

[IslandLizard]

Curious. Why are you building that large a system if you're not sure you want to brew?

But that aside, I can get 12 gallon to a boil with an insulated 62 quart pot, but I think that much more than that would be a stretch.

Yeah, that is a really good question.

LeapingLamb, how many and what size batches have you brewed? What kind of mash system did you use?

 

[LeapingLamb]

I do want to brew but am thinking of expanding in the future and a pot without valve might be easier to sell down the road. Currently I am brewing 5g with a cooler and 10 gal pot/ propane burner.
My goal is to build a system to brew 15 gallon batches. But may want to upgrade in the future.
With my post I meant to say. Should I use a water heating element inside the pot or could I use a induction heater. I am all for dual purpose and would consider using the pots for food as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[LeapingLamb]

I have probably brewed a few dozen batches


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[brettwasbtd]

I do want to brew but am thinking of expanding in the future and a pot without valve might be easier to sell down the road. Currently I am brewing 5g with a cooler and 10 gal pot/ propane burner.
My goal is to build a system to brew 15 gallon batches. But may want to upgrade in the future.
With my post I meant to say. Should I use a water heating element inside the pot or could I use a induction heater. I am all for dual purpose and would consider using the pots for food as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

I would recommend going with some sort of 5500 watt heat stick if you want that kind of power, expandability and no holes. On my phone now so not easy to find but search for hbt user nostalgia as he made one that might be of interest. As anoldur said 12 or so gallons is about the max

 

[IslandLizard]

[... ] But that aside, I can get 12 gallon to a boil with an insulated 62 quart pot, but I think that much more than that would be a stretch.

I would recommend going with some sort of 5500 watt heat stick if you want that kind of power, expandability and no holes. On my phone now so not easy to find but search for hbt user nostalgia as he made one that might be of interest. As anoldur said 12 or so gallons is about the max

A 5500W heat stick or (ripple) heater element has 57% more raw heating power than the 3500W induction burner. Combine this with the efficiency of immersed elements being nearly 100%, while an induction burner is only around 84%. This gives 5500W of immersion elements a 68% advantage over the IC3500. That's 2/3 more heating power!

I have a 15 gallon kettle but haven't run it on the IC3500 yet. Like AnOldUR said, I seriously doubt anything larger can be brought to a rolling boil on one IC3500.

 

[Saint George]

This has been a very helpful thread. Thanks to all who contributed.

I had similar results with past using a 3.5-3.75 Gal SS Pot.
DUXTOP 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop Countertop Burner 8100MC
$60 from Amazon this past April

Did a few small batches and was very pleased with numbers...
Initial 3.5 Gal @ 110F, #10 setting
+11'30" = 140F
+3'30" = 150F
+6'30" = 170F (21'30" to mash target)

Was frustrated with idea of purchasing another pot and did some experimentation with loose SS hardware on bottom of one of my pots (about 1/2 dozen big screws) that is not induction ware. I supported the pot with some wood scraps and elevated the cook top with a cutting board so there was just shy of 1 cm or 1/2 inch between the cook top and bottom of the pot.... it worked pretty well... not a robust boil but I augmented with a heatstick, which gave a very robust boil.
Just figured I pass it on for others to consider.

 

[Saint George]

Just to clarify last post. The pot is not induction ware. The hardware, SS screws were sensitive to the induction cooker.

 

[humann_brewing]

6 Gallon water test


• Induction Burner: Avantco IC3500 Countertop Induction Range / Cooker - 208/240V, 3500 Watt
• Model # of Kettle: Bayou Classic 1060 with 25ft of Reflectix wrapped around
• Batch Size: 6g
• Heats xx gals to mash temps in xx mins
• Heats xx gals from mash to boil in xx mins


This was just a test as as you will see there is a caveat

0 min 105f
4 min 120f
6 min 126f
8 min 128f
10 min 135f
12 min 137f
turned on heat stick (2000w)
14 min 147f
16 min 157f
18 min 166f
20 min 173f
22 min 180f
24 min 188f
26 min 194f
28 min 202f
heatstick tripped gfi
30 min 205f
32 min boil


Only the inner ring was activated during this test and I am not sure if that means not all the power was going into the kettle or not but I am not that impressed with just the power of the burner at this point.

 

[ducati]

I've enjoyed readind all the posts in this thread. Thanks to all contributors.

It seems as the most popular induction-ready kettle is the Bayou Classic. Others use the NB Megapot, MB Heavy-Duty, or Concord. Have I missed any?

Does anyone use the Ss Brew Tech kettles? I saw the recent Giveaway, and was curious. Their website claims they are induction ready, and I found they are comparable in cost to NB. Too bad they aren't in stock, or I might have made a impulse buy. Bad habit.

For reference I have the Avantco IC3500, but my kettle is not induction compatible.

 

[brettwasbtd]

• Induction Burner: Avantco IC3500 Countertop Induction Range / Cooker - 208/240V, 3500 Watt
• Model # of Kettle: Bayou Classic 1036
• Batch Size: 4.5gal/7.5gal
• Heats 4.5 gals to mash temps in 14 mins
• Heats 7.5 gals from mash to boil in 33 mins

Just Received and Tested my bayou classic 9 gallon pot (no insulation) with the Avantco ic3500. I tried to simulate a brewday by filling my kettle with 4.5 gallons of hot water from the tap and heating at max power with the lid on. I stopped when I get to high temp for preheating the cooler ~175°F. I then add 3 gallons of water to get an idea of how long it would take to get from mash temps to boil*.

4.5 gallons with lid on
00:00 - 119°F
05:00 - 137°F
11:00 - 164°F
14:00 - 175°F

7.5 gallons with lid off
00:00 - 152°F
05:00 - 163°F
10:00 - 173°F
15:00 - 183°F
20:00 - 192°F
25:00 - 200°F
30:00 - 206°F
33:00 - 209°F/Boil*

* couldn't get it any higher with the lid off. With the Lid on I was at 210.3 which is right around the boiling point at my altitude

 

[Saint George]

Just a follow-up to my post Aug 15, 2014.... I've had a couple more brew days utilizing the same strategy of using ss/magnetic bolts in the bottom of my kettle as well as supporting the kettle with 4x4 blocks of wood to not stress the induction surface with all the weight...... It is not working too consistently...

I would get things working ok for a few minutes the the induction alarm would go off and inevitably, if not manipulated, would shut off. I am not sure if it is an issue with the induction plate sensors reacting to not weight on the surface, the heat sensor interpreting too much heat being generated or an issue with the bolts confusing the cookers magnetic field???? My brother is an electrical engineer and suggested I try to rig up a system where the induction cooker rests on spring so it will touch the pot but not experience the full weight of 5-6 gallons etc.... I am also thinking it may just be a limitation of the induction cooker I got. Reviews from Amazon ding it because of inconsistency in the temperature sensing. If I knew the ADVANCO 3500 would work with my "bolts in the kettle" strategy I would break down and buy it but am not ready to shell out for new cooker and pot.... So I am back to the drawing board for now...

I'm pretty disappointed because prior to sending those photos I had a flawless brew day using the previously described strategy... Just figured I'd pass it on.

 

[rayf]

Avantco ic3500
15 gallon Tall Boy
Keg-Skin neoprene keg insulator

12 gallon boil
65 deg. Start temp
65-172 deg. (approx. strike temp) - 60 minutes
172-212 deg. - 36 minutes
1 hour boil
1.5 gallon boil off


65 deg. Start
10 min. - 85
20 - 108
30. - 121
40. - 136
50 - 154
60 - 172
70 - 186
80 - 196
93 - Boil

 

[Weezy]

See the variation in some of these results with the same device makes me think there is different efficiencies based on the pot used. I have a couple ic1800 and have noticed a difference depending which of 3 pots I use. Cheapo WalMart SS pot is average, triclad SS pot is good, the third is an unknown, brandless, thick wall SS pot is the best of the three. I should pull out the cast iron for a test.

 

[IslandLizard]

See the variation in some of these results with the same device makes me think there is different efficiencies based on the pot used. I have a couple ic1800 and have noticed a difference depending which of 3 pots I use. Cheapo WalMart SS pot is average, triclad SS pot is good, the third is an unknown, brandless, thick wall SS pot is the best of the three. I should pull out the cast iron for a test.

Absolutely, that's the life of induction, transferred energy. A clamp-on amp meter or one of those Kill-a-Watt meters could tell you how much energy is taken from the grid which each pot material.