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IslandLizard

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Is the experience thus far that boil off is very very low? Like .50 to .75 per hour?

Yesterday I brought 7.85 gallons to 164 in my Bayou Classic 1044 (it's the valve version of the 10 gallon pot).

I pumped that to my MLT, which upon doing so, I lost about 4 degrees of heat so I stopped the pump, turned on the kettle again and heated to about 170 quickly to offset heat loss. I mashed in, pumped back to the kettle (did no sparge) and as soon as I had 2 gallons in the pot, I turned the burner on to 2700. I got my boil volume which ended up being 6 gallons; I was aiming for 5.96 so this is good. I had a "duh" moment with my new pump and proceeded to dump .25 gallons of wort on my floor because sticky wort on my floor is the best, and turned the burner up to 3500.

From my 1 gallon and my failed 5 gallon batch (last Friday) I knew I had to literally plant myself next to the burner, and I did. Some short time passed and suddenly the wort was at the top waiting to boil over. Quickly turned the heat down to 800, sprayed my wort so it would calm down, and I came back up to about 2000 (I believe these are the increments). When I was comfortable, I went to 2400 then 2700 and I stuck at 2700 with a very nice rolling boil.

I boiled with what I call a consistent rolling boil for 60 minutes and lost about .50 - .75 gallons to boil off. I figure .25 on the floor, .25 left behind in the pump tubes and trub, .75 boil off = 4.75 in my fermenter.

Does that boil off sound about right? Unfortunately, I didn't time my boil times, I was busy with the new pump and such but I turned the burner on at 1:28 pm and I was chilling my wort just after 5.

I also love how easily this thing cleans up. I have dripped wort down the sides and worried a lot. It seems to clean right up. I do have a ring on the bottom of my pot as well. I will snap a pic of it in a bit.
Last night, during my first time brew with the IC3500, I estimate boiling off at least a gallon during the 75' boil. I'd say 25% less than I'm used to on the stove. I posted a more detailed report in the other IC3500 thread.

You're fortunate, your 10 gallon kettle has a lot more net headspace than my 8 gallon MoreBeer one. What were they thinking designing such a weird under-sized pot? Extract/partial mash perhaps? At least it will last a life time and then some.:) The triple-ply bottom helps to prevent scorching, and redistribute the heat, although I do give it a good stir every now and then. I guess it's habit from the extract days.

"Sticky wort on my floor is the best..." Very funny! No good brewday is complete without. Not sure if this method is much better. In one of my first AG brews I managed to leave the kettle valve open while dumping in my first runnings. Luckily I had my HLT still underneath filled with 4 gallons of sparge water... I discovered the error fast from the sound it made, but by the time I could close the valve I had diluted at least a gallon of 1.090 wort into sparge. Still made the OG, and the beer came out fine.
 

LabRatBrewer

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1800W Avantco and the Chefmate 20qt

Start 75f 3 Gallons Water (lid on until boil)
1 min 76f
5 min 91f
10 min 104f
15 min 118f
20 min 130f
25 min 145f
30 min 155f
40 min 185f
50 min 207f
55 Boil

No problem keeping rapid boil no lid.
 

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Man there must have been something up with the first unit I had. I'm doing my first 4gal boil with the same pot, new unit, and this thing is just rocking out. I'm boiling 4gal on setting 11 and I'm still getting burps in the middle.

So far I'm loving electric. :rockin:
 

LeapingLamb

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Hi,
I know that this is an old thread but after days of searching for more information about induction heating.

I want to build a 15 gal eHERMS using 3 100qt stainless steel stockpots. What I want to know is, if I get the aavantco 3500w 240v model for my HLT and boil kettle. Would the avantco bring 20-25 gallon preboil wort from let's say 160 to a boil in a reasonable time like less than 30 mins? Does anyone have any input on this or tried it? How about from 65 to 160 in my HLT?

The reason I am asking is that i am allowed to buy the pots but am not allowed to drill holes in them as they would loose their resale value. Hence I am planning a herms system without the need of drilling holes at least not in all 3 pots. I want to make sure I am not spending a lot of money if having a submerged 5500w element would work a lot faster.

To summarize for 15 gal batches should I use induction or resistance heating?

Thanks in advance


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AnOldUR

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The reason I am asking is that i am . . . not allowed to drill holes in them as they would loose their resale value.
Curious. Why are you building that large a system if you're not sure you want to brew? :eek:


But that aside, I can get 12 gallon to a boil with an insulated 62 quart pot, but I think that much more than that would be a stretch.
 

IslandLizard

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Curious. Why are you building that large a system if you're not sure you want to brew? :eek:

But that aside, I can get 12 gallon to a boil with an insulated 62 quart pot, but I think that much more than that would be a stretch.
Yeah, that is a really good question.

LeapingLamb, how many and what size batches have you brewed? What kind of mash system did you use?
 

LeapingLamb

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I do want to brew but am thinking of expanding in the future and a pot without valve might be easier to sell down the road. Currently I am brewing 5g with a cooler and 10 gal pot/ propane burner.
My goal is to build a system to brew 15 gallon batches. But may want to upgrade in the future.
With my post I meant to say. Should I use a water heating element inside the pot or could I use a induction heater. I am all for dual purpose and would consider using the pots for food as well.


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LeapingLamb

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I have probably brewed a few dozen batches


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brettwasbtd

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I do want to brew but am thinking of expanding in the future and a pot without valve might be easier to sell down the road. Currently I am brewing 5g with a cooler and 10 gal pot/ propane burner.
My goal is to build a system to brew 15 gallon batches. But may want to upgrade in the future.
With my post I meant to say. Should I use a water heating element inside the pot or could I use a induction heater. I am all for dual purpose and would consider using the pots for food as well.


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I would recommend going with some sort of 5500 watt heat stick if you want that kind of power, expandability and no holes. On my phone now so not easy to find but search for hbt user nostalgia as he made one that might be of interest. As anoldur said 12 or so gallons is about the max
 

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[... ] But that aside, I can get 12 gallon to a boil with an insulated 62 quart pot, but I think that much more than that would be a stretch.
I would recommend going with some sort of 5500 watt heat stick if you want that kind of power, expandability and no holes. On my phone now so not easy to find but search for hbt user nostalgia as he made one that might be of interest. As anoldur said 12 or so gallons is about the max
A 5500W heat stick or (ripple) heater element has 57% more raw heating power than the 3500W induction burner. Combine this with the efficiency of immersed elements being nearly 100%, while an induction burner is only around 84%. This gives 5500W of immersion elements a 68% advantage over the IC3500. That's 2/3 more heating power!

I have a 15 gallon kettle but haven't run it on the IC3500 yet. Like AnOldUR said, I seriously doubt anything larger can be brought to a rolling boil on one IC3500.
 

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This has been a very helpful thread. Thanks to all who contributed.

I had similar results with past using a 3.5-3.75 Gal SS Pot.
DUXTOP 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop Countertop Burner 8100MC
$60 from Amazon this past April

Did a few small batches and was very pleased with numbers...
Initial 3.5 Gal @ 110F, #10 setting
+11'30" = 140F
+3'30" = 150F
+6'30" = 170F (21'30" to mash target)

Was frustrated with idea of purchasing another pot and did some experimentation with loose SS hardware on bottom of one of my pots (about 1/2 dozen big screws) that is not induction ware. I supported the pot with some wood scraps and elevated the cook top with a cutting board so there was just shy of 1 cm or 1/2 inch between the cook top and bottom of the pot.... it worked pretty well... not a robust boil but I augmented with a heatstick, which gave a very robust boil.
Just figured I pass it on for others to consider.

2014-08-14 17.48.20.jpg


2014-08-14 17.47.58.jpg


2014-08-14 17.47.51.jpg


2014-08-15 15.56.21.jpg
 

Saint George

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Just to clarify last post. The pot is not induction ware. The hardware, SS screws were sensitive to the induction cooker.
 

humann_brewing

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6 Gallon water test


• Induction Burner: Avantco IC3500 Countertop Induction Range / Cooker - 208/240V, 3500 Watt
• Model # of Kettle: Bayou Classic 1060 with 25ft of Reflectix wrapped around
• Batch Size: 6g
• Heats xx gals to mash temps in xx mins
• Heats xx gals from mash to boil in xx mins


This was just a test as as you will see there is a caveat

0 min 105f
4 min 120f
6 min 126f
8 min 128f
10 min 135f
12 min 137f
turned on heat stick (2000w)
14 min 147f
16 min 157f
18 min 166f
20 min 173f
22 min 180f
24 min 188f
26 min 194f
28 min 202f
heatstick tripped gfi
30 min 205f
32 min boil


Only the inner ring was activated during this test and I am not sure if that means not all the power was going into the kettle or not but I am not that impressed with just the power of the burner at this point.
 

ducati

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I've enjoyed readind all the posts in this thread. Thanks to all contributors.

It seems as the most popular induction-ready kettle is the Bayou Classic. Others use the NB Megapot, MB Heavy-Duty, or Concord. Have I missed any?

Does anyone use the Ss Brew Tech kettles? I saw the recent Giveaway, and was curious. Their website claims they are induction ready, and I found they are comparable in cost to NB. Too bad they aren't in stock, or I might have made a impulse buy. Bad habit.

For reference I have the Avantco IC3500, but my kettle is not induction compatible.
 

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• Induction Burner: Avantco IC3500 Countertop Induction Range / Cooker - 208/240V, 3500 Watt
• Model # of Kettle: Bayou Classic 1036
• Batch Size: 4.5gal/7.5gal
• Heats 4.5 gals to mash temps in 14 mins
• Heats 7.5 gals from mash to boil in 33 mins

Just Received and Tested my bayou classic 9 gallon pot (no insulation) with the Avantco ic3500. I tried to simulate a brewday by filling my kettle with 4.5 gallons of hot water from the tap and heating at max power with the lid on. I stopped when I get to high temp for preheating the cooler ~175°F. I then add 3 gallons of water to get an idea of how long it would take to get from mash temps to boil*.

4.5 gallons with lid on
00:00 - 119°F
05:00 - 137°F
11:00 - 164°F
14:00 - 175°F

7.5 gallons with lid off
00:00 - 152°F
05:00 - 163°F
10:00 - 173°F
15:00 - 183°F
20:00 - 192°F
25:00 - 200°F
30:00 - 206°F
33:00 - 209°F/Boil*

* couldn't get it any higher with the lid off. With the Lid on I was at 210.3 which is right around the boiling point at my altitude
 
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Just a follow-up to my post Aug 15, 2014.... I've had a couple more brew days utilizing the same strategy of using ss/magnetic bolts in the bottom of my kettle as well as supporting the kettle with 4x4 blocks of wood to not stress the induction surface with all the weight...... It is not working too consistently...

I would get things working ok for a few minutes the the induction alarm would go off and inevitably, if not manipulated, would shut off. I am not sure if it is an issue with the induction plate sensors reacting to not weight on the surface, the heat sensor interpreting too much heat being generated or an issue with the bolts confusing the cookers magnetic field???? My brother is an electrical engineer and suggested I try to rig up a system where the induction cooker rests on spring so it will touch the pot but not experience the full weight of 5-6 gallons etc.... I am also thinking it may just be a limitation of the induction cooker I got. Reviews from Amazon ding it because of inconsistency in the temperature sensing. If I knew the ADVANCO 3500 would work with my "bolts in the kettle" strategy I would break down and buy it but am not ready to shell out for new cooker and pot.... So I am back to the drawing board for now...

I'm pretty disappointed because prior to sending those photos I had a flawless brew day using the previously described strategy... Just figured I'd pass it on.
 

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Avantco ic3500
15 gallon Tall Boy
Keg-Skin neoprene keg insulator

12 gallon boil
65 deg. Start temp
65-172 deg. (approx. strike temp) - 60 minutes
172-212 deg. - 36 minutes
1 hour boil
1.5 gallon boil off


65 deg. Start
10 min. - 85
20 - 108
30. - 121
40. - 136
50 - 154
60 - 172
70 - 186
80 - 196
93 - Boil
 

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See the variation in some of these results with the same device makes me think there is different efficiencies based on the pot used. I have a couple ic1800 and have noticed a difference depending which of 3 pots I use. Cheapo WalMart SS pot is average, triclad SS pot is good, the third is an unknown, brandless, thick wall SS pot is the best of the three. I should pull out the cast iron for a test.
 

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See the variation in some of these results with the same device makes me think there is different efficiencies based on the pot used. I have a couple ic1800 and have noticed a difference depending which of 3 pots I use. Cheapo WalMart SS pot is average, triclad SS pot is good, the third is an unknown, brandless, thick wall SS pot is the best of the three. I should pull out the cast iron for a test.
Absolutely, that's the life of induction, transferred energy. A clamp-on amp meter or one of those Kill-a-Watt meters could tell you how much energy is taken from the grid which each pot material.
 

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There's been a lot of questions like "is this pot induction ready?" and a lot of vagueness. Due to a new apartment I just purchased an induction burner (Duxtop 9100MC 1800w) and the Concord S4242 60-quart pot on Amazon. I also have a 2000w heatstick and do full BIAB ~ 6 gal batches. We'll see what happens, and I'll report back to this thread.

I have no idea if this combination is going to work out, or if the kettle is even "induction ready". There's been a lot of questions about the Concord and then no one replies because they may not have the info. There is one review on Amazon for the kettle I purchased that says it's "OK for induction", so we'll see.

My understanding is that if it's "induction capable/ready" then it will work and heat up and produce the maximum output. If it's not ready then it simply won't work, as opposed to working sort of, at a lower output. Is that correct?
 

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My understanding is that if it's "induction capable/ready" then it will work and heat up and produce the maximum output. If it's not ready then it simply won't work, as opposed to working sort of, at a lower output. Is that correct?
If the manufacturer is saying its induction ready, then yes. If random poster who never tested any pot but that o e on their induction cooker, then take that with a grain of salt. Just because a pot does heat up doesn't mean its what you want. It may only be heating at 60% efficiency or something. A truly induction manufacturer recommended pot is going to work at a high efficiency.
 

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Okay so you're saying it's not an "it works or it doesn't" scenario. Interesting. I'll be sure to reply with the results of the new equipment.


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I did a test today with a brand new Concord 60 quart SS kettle. Amazon says it's 18/8 stainless, which seems like it's not induction material. Sure enough, a magnet did not stick to the bottom. However, I put it on the Duxtop 9100MC 1800 watt induction burner and it didn't give the error code for "incompatible cookware". Instead, it started heating up the water. I filled it a little more than half way to ~ 8 gal of 70 degree water and dropped in a 2000 watt heatstick. Kept the lid on cracked as I monitored the rise in temp.

Took about 30 minutes to get to 150 and then another hour or so to get up to 205–206 where it maxed out. The surface was moving in a gentle roll, but I am not convinced at this combo. I quickly wrapped about 5 layers of reflectix around the kettle (though it could have been a tighter wrap) and that didn't seem to boost the temp.

At my previous apartment I had a 50 quart aluminum kettle that fit perfectly on two gas burners, but still needed the heatstick to boil, but then it would rage. At the new place I've got a glass top electric range that seems less than ideal, though I haven't really tried it yet.

Now I'm trying to figure out what to try next. My typical pre boil volume is around 8 gallons, but with a 60 quart kettle I was hoping to do bigger batches, though I can't even boil 8 gal. I could add a another heatstick. Am also wondering if a narrower/taller kettle would be better, like the 15 gal Tallboy from NB. The Concord is 17" wide x 16" tall and the Tallboy is 15.5" x 18.5", it also might have a magnetic bottom. Any other ideas?
 

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I did a test today with a brand new Concord 60 quart SS kettle. Amazon says it's 18/8 stainless, which seems like it's not induction material. Sure enough, a magnet did not stick to the bottom. However, I put it on the Duxtop 9100MC 1800 watt induction burner and it didn't give the error code for "incompatible cookware". Instead, it started heating up the water. I filled it a little more than half way to ~ 8 gal of 70 degree water and dropped in a 2000 watt heatstick. Kept the lid on cracked as I monitored the rise in temp.

Took about 30 minutes to get to 150 and then another hour or so to get up to 205–206 where it maxed out. The surface was moving in a gentle roll, but I am not convinced at this combo. I quickly wrapped about 5 layers of reflectix around the kettle (though it could have been a tighter wrap) and that didn't seem to boost the temp.

At my previous apartment I had a 50 quart aluminum kettle that fit perfectly on two gas burners, but still needed the heatstick to boil, but then it would rage. At the new place I've got a glass top electric range that seems less than ideal, though I haven't really tried it yet.

Now I'm trying to figure out what to try next. My typical pre boil volume is around 8 gallons, but with a 60 quart kettle I was hoping to do bigger batches, though I can't even boil 8 gal. I could add a another heatstick. Am also wondering if a narrower/taller kettle would be better, like the 15 gal Tallboy from NB. The Concord is 17" wide x 16" tall and the Tallboy is 15.5" x 18.5", it also might have a magnetic bottom. Any other ideas?
Although it looks like you're putting 3800W into the kettle, you may not get the full 1800W from the induction. As Weezy said, transfer maybe only 60% or less. I get a full rolling boil on my IC3500 with an 8 gallon induction-ready tri-ply bottomed kettle, and once boiling, have to reduce to 2500-2700W to prevent splashing.

But I had a hard time getting a good boil with a 13 gallon batch in a similar 15 gallon tri-clad induction kettle. Insulation only helped marginally, but keeping the lid partially on saved the day. No DMS, but I also didn't use Pilsner malt, mostly wheat and 2-row.

Induction energy transfer is "easy" to measure with the right equipment, such as a clamp-on amp meter on a phase lead in the breaker box. Gotta get one of those...

I doubt a taller, skinnier kettle will make all that much difference. Sure you'll gain induction efficiency with an induction-ready kettle, but that maybe only 800W. Still not nearly enough to boil 13 gallons, if that's your goal.

The problem you see with the temp not rising above 206°F is that although the bottom part of the wort is boiling, the energy and convection is not enough to heat the top wort to boiling temps. Most of that has to do with energy loss, and keeping the lid on part way will help immensely. Your boil off may be somewhat reduced too, but not that much.

So I'd say, get another 2000W heat stick, run on a separate circuit (heavy duty extension cord). Or mount an electric element in your current kettle. ULWD would be best. You can feed a 240W element with 2 120V connections from 2 separate circuits as long as they use different phases, i.e., the breakers would be on opposite sides. Or from a 240V/30A dryer outlet, or the outlet of your range.
 
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IslandLizard

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This has been a very helpful thread. Thanks to all who contributed.

I had similar results with past using a 3.5-3.75 Gal SS Pot.
DUXTOP 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop Countertop Burner 8100MC
$60 from Amazon this past April

Did a few small batches and was very pleased with numbers...
Initial 3.5 Gal @ 110F, #10 setting
+11'30" = 140F
+3'30" = 150F
+6'30" = 170F (21'30" to mash target)

Was frustrated with idea of purchasing another pot and did some experimentation with loose SS hardware on bottom of one of my pots (about 1/2 dozen big screws) that is not induction ware. I supported the pot with some wood scraps and elevated the cook top with a cutting board so there was just shy of 1 cm or 1/2 inch between the cook top and bottom of the pot.... it worked pretty well... not a robust boil but I augmented with a heatstick, which gave a very robust boil.
Just figured I pass it on for others to consider.
Somehow I overlooked your post, just stumbled upon it. Are you using those bolts, nuts, and washers as induction receivers inside your kettle? How is the energy transfer? You're quite a bit away from the coil. Could you stick an 8" magnetic SS plate on the bottom instead?

On a side note, that is a very narrow edge that pot is supported on, the slightest bump will drop it onto your glass induction plate.
 

Saint George

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Somehow I overlooked your post, just stumbled upon it. Are you using those bolts, nuts, and washers as induction receivers inside your kettle? How is the energy transfer? You're quite a bit away from the coil. Could you stick an 8" magnetic SS plate on the bottom instead?

On a side note, that is a very narrow edge that pot is supported on, the slightest bump will drop it onto your glass induction plate.
IslandLizzard, Thanks for your feedback.
I posted a follow-up reporting inconsistent results and issues with the induction plate sounding an error alarm and shutting off. I would reposition and get another 5 minutes of activity then another alarm.... Very frustrating because I had no such issues when I reported my original post. The 8" SS plate is the next step in the plan... I suspect something more uniform in size and shape may better accommodate the magnetic fields.
On a side note I built-up the support around the kettle to get 3 sides of support with some aluminum reinforcements
 

IslandLizard

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IslandLizzard, Thanks for your feedback.
I posted a follow-up reporting inconsistent results and issues with the induction plate sounding an error alarm and shutting off. I would reposition and get another 5 minutes of activity then another alarm.... Very frustrating because I had no such issues when I reported my original post. The 8" SS plate is the next step in the plan... I suspect something more uniform in size and shape may better accommodate the magnetic fields.
On a side note I built-up the support around the kettle to get 3 sides of support with some aluminum reinforcements
Ah, I see it, few posts down. My guess is the inductors are a bit far from the coil. Bringing the burner closer to the bottom of the pot should help. The shape (geometry) of the inductor is somewhat important as the induction currents need to "shorten" to create heat. A 1/8" thick magnetic SS plate should do it. It doesn't need to be round.

The IC3500 has no problem carrying a 15 gallon pot full of wort, it just can't boil it by itself. It has a sturdy SS frame, 16 gauge I reckon, which wraps around the top, functioning as a spacer, so the kettle rests on that instead of the glass plate. I don't think the weight on the glass is as much an issue as immense local pressure because of surface imperfections, sand, grit, etc.

When I use non-enameled, "raw" cast iron (a wok) on my IC3500, I use a 1/16" silicone spacer to prevent the irregular cast iron surface from scratching or cracking the glass. That works, but 1/4"-1/2" space is too much, it beeps for non-detection.
 

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Okay, I've finally got my new system up and running and am posting some initial test results. Here is the equipment I'm using and some data:

kettle: 15 gal Tall Boy wrapped with 4 layers of Reflectix insulation (actually holds 15.5 gal liquid with the lid on, and to the brim is about 16 gal) – has a magnetic clad bottom

induction burner: Avantco 3500

supplemental: 2000 watt heatstick

I filled the kettle with 14 gal of water at about 92 degrees and turned on the AV3500 along with the heatstick, and put the lid on partially covering the kettle. The temperature climbed 20 degrees every 10 minutes, consistently all the way up to boiling, where I removed the lid. When it was boiling, it was raging and I could turn the AV3500 down to a lower power along with the heatstick.

It took 30 minutes to climb from 92 to 158 and another 30 to get it boiling. While boiling I unplugged the heatstick and the AV3500 kept a very low boil going at maximum power. While this may not be desirable for most brews, it could be desirable for something like an Altbier where you may want to decrease your boil off. The surface was moving and rolling, but very slightly.

Along with the heatstick I'll be able to pull off double batches now.
 

AnOldUR

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Like AnOldUR said, I seriously doubt anything larger (i.e. 12 gallons) can be brought to a rolling boil on one IC3500.
I was wrong. Messed up volumes and got close to 14 gallons to the kettle. No supplemental heat source. No problem.

ref: 62qt Bayou / Avantco 3500

Induction Boil 7.jpg
 

AfroHopster

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I was wrong. Messed up volumes and got close to 14 gallons to the kettle. No supplemental heat source. No problem.

ref: 62qt Bayou / Avantco 3500
so the Bayou tri clad is the way to go? I just brought 2 Avantco 3500's and I need some pots was looking at bru-gear, SS brew tech now I will price a Bayou see the difference would like to get 3 pots for under 500. If I can't do that I'm going to get 2 and use my igloo for mashing and continue to fly sparge.
 

sumbrewindude

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Finally got my pot in, hope to run some tests tonight for the small batch crew.

INITIAL DATA:

• Induction Burner: AVANTCO 1800W
• Model # of Kettle: CONCORD 26Qt Tall
• Batch Size: 3GAL

Using 3gal starting volume, non-insulated kettle, lid on to boil, settings as marked:
Setting 15 (Max)
Time/Temp
0 min / 72.2F
15min / 111F
30min / 156F
45min / 197F
52min / 212F

Minimal boil off, rolling surface boil, setting #13, 210F.
Minimal boil off, fast rolling surface boil setting #14, 211F.

• Heats 3GAL gals to mash temps in 33 mins (160F strike)
• Heats 3GAL from mash (175F) to boil (212F) in 15 mins

Still seeing what my boil off is so I can perform a full volume boil for 3gal, and then I'll post new numbers with insulation.

:mug:

Just updating these numbers based on my current brewing volumes with a 3gal batch -

With 1 wrap of Reflectix, using the Concord pot -

2.5gal mash volume 90F -160F is ~20min, highest setting
2.0gal sparge volume 90F - 175F is ~15min, highest setting
4gal total volume 170F to 212F/ vigorous boil is 18min, highest setting

Boil off is 1gal/hr

Total volume attemped to boil - 5.25gal, which it did with a smooth rolling boil, ran out of comfortable room in pot.

Love the system.
:mug:
 

Brugear

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Great thread and one we'd like to point our customers to as we're always being asked about whihc plates and frankly the community has the best knowledge on this. We sell induction kettles, however, aside from adding the entire Bru Gear range of kettles (10, 15, 20 and 30 gallon) to the list of available high quality induction and electric element ready kettles that's the selling over ;)

We're fans of induction bruing and I noticed there was some commentary on weight bearing issues. Here's the thing with induction, the kettles doesn't have to sit on the plate, all the plate manufacturers have recommendations for distance from the plate to the kettle, we've seen up to 1.5" recommended, however, the commercial induction plates we've tested with at 100 gallon batches we're around 1/4" gap. What this means is you can form a frame to support the weight of the kettle and provide stability and still achieve the field required to achieve heating.

Lastly, I'd be interested to see if anyone has implemented induction into an automated brewery, where temperature control is handled outside of the turn knob on the plates.

Cheers and happy Bruing !

Phil
 

kal

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Lastly, I'd be interested to see if anyone has implemented induction into an automated brewery, where temperature control is handled outside of the turn knob on the plates.
Certainly possible, essentially just using them as a heating element for those that don't want to install a heating element, assuming you can find an induction cooktop that has the wattage you need.

The caveat is that most induction cooktops will have to hacked to make this work as you want them to come on automatically at 100% when power is first applied (ie: when they're first plugged in). For obvious safety reasons, this is not how these burners work, nor will there ever be one with that sort of option.

All of the models in the original post of this thread are off when you first plug them in. You have to hit the "ON/OFF" button to turn them on and then turn the power up to 100%. So if power goes out, you need to again re-press the "ON/OFF" button and then turn the power back up.

So if driven by an external source like an electric brewing control panel, they would be unusable as is as the control panel would be cutting and applying power to the burner as often as every second or two. You'd have to manully turn them on every 2 seconds. The cheap on/off dimpled membrane buttons that most of these inexpensive cooktops use would wear out after a couple of brew sessions, not to mention nobody wants to sit there pressing buttons every 2 seconds for 1+ hours. ;)

Hacking one would probably be pretty straight forward however for anyone with electronics experience, assuming you can get one open, trace things out, and then back together again.

Kal
 

bferullo

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I use the following:

• Induction Burner: AVANTCO 1800W
• Model # of Kettle: NB 10 gallon MegaPot with 3 layers Reflectix wrapping
• Batch Size: 3.5 GAL

My strike water reaches 170 degrees in about 45 minutes, from faucet temperature of about 70 degrees.

After sparge collection, the wort reaches a boil in about 35 minutes. I leave the lid partially on, held in place by binder clips. I end up getting a nice boil, although there is a stronger boil in the center of the pot.

I haven't had any off flavor issues due to using the lid to partially cover teh pot during boil.

This is a great basement setup. When I can get the electrical run, I plan on upgrading to the 3500 watt burner.
 

Weezy

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I believe the commercial induction cookers have some level of programmed control via ICs on the PCB. A reprogram would be necessary to hack them. The coils do not work by a simple on-off switch triggered by the knob etc. Iirc, power is sent to them via a wave signal. I hadn't read up on this in years so the details are fuzzy....but I was satisfied at the time that a spliced wire hack was off the table.

That being said, I am working on a hack that I will post about, whether it succeeds or fails. I have the parts just not the time right now.
 

Early8

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Subscribed. I have been motivated to explore induction brewing only this year, I have been at it otherwise for about 20... Never mind the details, but I have a Bosch range, NIC5665uc, which I love. It's about a year old. I am exploring doing 7 gallon boils on the range. My concern about weight of the filled kettle led me to check with the manufacturer regarding weight limits for the range. I was told 200lbs. So now it's onto a kettle... I am aiming for a cold season indoor BIAB full volume setup. I am about to pull the trigger on a 10 gallon Mega Pot. I will be using an immersion chiller and a racking can. I will post my experiences. Thanks for creating this repository for induction brewing experiences, it's definitely needed.
 

IslandLizard

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Subscribed. I have been motivated to explore induction brewing only this year, I have been at it otherwise for about 20... Never mind the details, but I have a Bosch range, NIC5665uc, which I love. It's about a year old. I am exploring doing 7 gallon boils on the range. My concern about weight of the filled kettle led me to check with the manufacturer regarding weight limits for the range. I was told 200lbs. So now it's onto a kettle... I am aiming for a cold season indoor BIAB full volume setup. I am about to pull the trigger on a 10 gallon Mega Pot. I will be using an immersion chiller and a racking can. I will post my experiences. Thanks for creating this repository for induction brewing experiences, it's definitely needed.
I used to put my 8 gallon triple ply kettle on my Samsung glass top stove (radiant heat, not induction), but the large 13" triple element could not give me a good rolling boil at 7 gallons unless I kept the lid on partially. I could hear the element cycling on and off and of course that's what was limiting the output. When they were in the on state, the boil was great, not so when off.

The boil off was still about a gallon per hour, so that was good. I also had 3 layers of large bubble wrap around it. It all worked fine this way for many brews, but the sheer weight of the full pot on that stove really worried me. I made sure the top was cleaned and grit free and the same for the bottom of the pot. Once put on and filled, I never moved it. And kept a continuous hawk eye on boilovers and splashes, with only 1.5" of headspace. With that in mind, I often split the boil between 2 pots, 6 gallons on the triple and a gallon and a half on the double coil.

Your induction stove won't get as hot, so you won't have the burn/pitting issue, but there is still a lot of weight, and possible scratching if you're not careful. 200# capacity sounds great, and there's some reserve, but that's with even pressure applied on the whole top probably. How about local pressure?

I tried to find your stove but Google only shows this thread. One single return! that's a first.

I get a decent boil with 7 gallons on my IC3500, with insulation, but I'm almost sure I don't get the full 3500W output. These triple ply bottoms are great to prevent scorching and give a better, more spread out heating surface than single ply, but I have the feeling some efficiency is lost. I guess I'm in the market for a clamp meter to be able to check that. Hmm, not a bad price. 400A too.

I guess you need to know how much energy your largest coil can deliver. 3500W sounds about the minimum you need. More is better.

There is more info on induction in the IC3500 thread.
 
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