Regulator question

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moboy

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I pick up this regulator at a garage sale last weekend for $4.00. Any reason this wouldn't work for my transition for bottles to kegs.
Thanks

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If it has the correct mount to screw onto a co2 tank... it will work fine. The top gauge should really only go from 0 to 60, but other than that, good to go. Your choice about using that splitter off of the bottom of the regulator. Most beer regs have a valve and a hose barb.
 
Yes, the flare fittings on the splitter should have check valves built into them, that is a soda set up the reason for the higher readings on the low pressure gauge. You don't have to change anything the flared connections may be the same as those going to QD's (ballock)
 
Replace the top gauge (that goes to 160 psi now) with one that goes no higher than 60 psi. IF you cannot locate one that works for the regulator body, then I would NOT use it. For kegging, you'll use the range of under 20psi most of the time (unless you serve really warm). So, you need accuracy in the 0-20 range at the very least.

I also wouldn't use the splitter that's connected to the body. IMO/IME, better to have a shutoff valve there. You can get/make a manifold to connect to the regulator inside the brew fridge/kegorator/keezer to split the gas feed to the kegs. Make sure that also has shutoff valves for each feed.

Personally, if I had seen that at a garage sale, I would have passed on it.
 
I found a 60 psi gauge for $10 that will fit.

You would pass on a $4.00 regulator with two ball lock connectors attached. Not this guy.
 
I found a 60 psi regulator for $10.00..

You would pass up a regulator with two ball lock connectors for $4.00. Not this guy?
 
Without being able to have tested it before buying it, yes I would pass. Besides, I have two normal regulators (one single and one dual body) one of them being a 100% TapRite regulator (the other is a TapRite body, with other make gauges). I also have one that was made to connect to paintball gun bottles and another that's a Leland regulator. Besides, the way it's set up to connect to kegs is beyond ghetto IMO. :drunk:
 
Without being able to have tested it before buying it, yes I would pass. Besides, I have two normal regulators (one single and one dual body) one of them being a 100% TapRite regulator (the other is a TapRite body, with other make gauges). I also have one that was made to connect to paintball gun bottles and another that's a Leland regulator. Besides, the way it's set up to connect to kegs is beyond ghetto IMO. :drunk:

Your opinion.
To me, it's not ghetto, it's set up for soda and will be fine. I'd buy it in a heart beat.
Paintball tank... now that's ghetto.
 
Ghetto? Let me tell you something, I can do without your snarky comments. If you have nothing constructive to say, say nothing at all IMO.
 
There's nothing wrong with that regulator - Assuming it's in good working order.

I agree replacing the low pressure gauge with something that you can more accurately set in the 10-20 PSI range is a good idea.

I have a couple of those splitters on some regulators. They work great. The flare fitting is the same as corny QD's (Obviously, that's what they hooked up to for soda)

They may or may not have check valves. I have a few that do and some that don't - Either way, all you have to do is cap the ones you don't use. Either with a flare cap and washer (Should have them at your LHBS) or just remove the ones you don't want and use a pipe plug and some teflon tape.

Hmm - Dual reg, manifold, = $$$. This is $4! :ban:
Damn right I'd use it

Don't forget the seal between the gauge and the Co2 tank - VERY important!
On the end of the tank fitting there should be a groove with an o-ring in it.
If the o-ring isn't there, just go to the hardware store and buy a hard nylon washer that just fits inside of the nut on the regulator. It'll seal right up.
 
I appreciate your help. I'll check all the seals before I hook up.
Matt
 
Hopefully the gauges are accurate though. I have run into used gauges that have been dropped a few times and they are off. It may help if you could find a way to compare it to someone elses's regulator if possible. Otherwise you could just run it and see how it ends up, if it's fine then all the better. Good luck with it!
 
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