Reducing RPM's on drill for mill

[Ranger9913]

I have an old Sears 7 amp paddle drill that I am using to drive my MM 3-2 mill. A long time ago the trigger mechanism broke and I hard wired the drill to a switch box so that it's either all-on or off. I was wondering if there is way I can limit the juice to the drill so that it drops my rpm's a little. Right now I am running around 450 rpms and I would like to drop to the 200's. I was thinking I could wire a resistor in or something similar.

 

[GreenMonti]

How about a potentiometer? Then you would have variable speed.

 

[marzsit]

a light dimmer would work if you get one with enough wattage capacity.

 

[GreenMonti]

a light dimmer would work if you get one with enough wattage capacity.

HA, HA....Oops. I instantly thought DC voltage.

 

[Ranger9913]

Yea I initially thought of that but with the drill drawing 7 amps I figured the basic light dimmer would not handle that.

 

[passedpawn]

Yea I initially thought of that but with the drill drawing 7 amps I figured the basic light dimmer would not handle that.

I have a lutron in my kitchen that will do 10A.

 

[lschiavo]

Maybe a fan speed control rated at least 1000W. Never tried one on a drill but it may work.

 

[Ranger9913]

Light dimmers at Lowes are rated for 5A, the fan controls are rated for 1.5A.

 

[camiller]

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1W8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Shop around a bit, I just linked the first one I found.

 

[Ranger9913]

Something like this? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1W8/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Shop around a bit, I just linked the first one I found.

That would work for sure. I think I have a Variac around somewhere I used for old tube amplifiers. I bet that would be the same thing

 

[Photomask]

That would work for sure. I think I have a Variac around somewhere I used for old tube amplifiers. I bet that would be the same thing

It's not even close to being the same thing. The Variac is an auto-transformer and changes voltage; it could easily let the magic smoke out of the drill. You could probably get away with varying the voltage a little though. The router speed control is a pulser and keeps the same voltage but pulses it on-and-off quickly to reduce the speed.

Better yet, use that money and buy a used gearmotor to power the mill.

 

[Marsdude]

It may be cheaper for you to head to a pawn shop and buy a good used variable speed drill.

 

[lschiavo]

Light dimmers at Lowes are rated for 5A, the fan controls are rated for 1.5A.

Here is one.

http://www.homeperfect.com/invt/fanrpe10&?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=comparsionshopping

 

[Ranger9913]

Well, I want to get a motor and do it right but the wife can only handle about one major addition to the brewery a month. So I'm trying to make use of the drill for the time being.
Do you think 400-500 rpm's is too much anyway. Monster Mills suggests 150-200. The guys at a LHBS run at much higher rates.

 

[Catt22]

Generally, running your mill slower will generate less dust and it's probably less wear and tear on the mill itself. Here's a link to a cheap Harbor Freight drill that many have used with good results:

http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...inch-heavy-duty-spade-handle-drill-93632.html

That particular drill is geared down especially for low speed operation and it will have more than enough torque to do the job. I'm using a gearmotor on my mill, but only because I got a hot deal on one by accident. Otherwise I would probably be using this drill motor. The LHBS run at high speeds as they need to get you out of the way quickly so others can use the mill. This can be important during peak hours.

 

[Ranger9913]

yea that is basically the same drill i have except my trigger mechanism got destroyed on the job long ago broke the whole handle but the drill still works hardwired to a switch box. for $40 I might just pick that up.

 

[chrislehr]

Sorry, but...

buy a new god damned drill?

I have a few tools that are in the "stuck on" mode too - they are all in a pile to be returned to their manufacturers. Why risk yourself????

 

[philrose]

What about a simple belt drive? You could rig one up yourself, doesn't need to be perfect if you're only using it a couple times per month.

Just a thought...

 

[Ranger9913]

Well, good thing I have it wired to a momentary switch. So sorry to disappoint you.

 

[Photomask]

If it's a good quality drill, just order the parts and repair it.

 

[Catt22]

What about a simple belt drive? You could rig one up yourself, doesn't need to be perfect if you're only using it a couple times per month.

Just a thought...

That would work and many actually do it that way. The bottom line is that the cost of the sheaves, belts and a motor would be almost as much as buying a cheap Chinese Harbor Freight drill motor. Using a drill motor is also somewhat safer unless to add guards to the belts and sheaves. A drill motor can also be used for other tasks such as, you know, drilling. Drill baby! Drill!

Some day I'm gonna build one using a friction drive. I haven't seen anyone try that yet. Seems it would be perfectly doable.

 

[lschiavo]

I use a Milwaukee right angle drill. 600 rpm. Works fine so far.

 

[SweetSounds]

You could add a right angle drive to your existing drill. It'll be cheaper than electronics to slow it down, better for your drill because you can run as it was designed, and double your torque...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vermont-American-Drill-Right-Angle-Drive-/370286706282?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636cebe6a

 

[Catt22]

You could add a right angle drive to your existing drill. It'll be cheaper than electronics to slow it down, better for your drill because you can run as it was designed, and double your torque...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vermont-American-Drill-Right-Angle-Drive-/370286706282?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636cebe6a

I did that when I powered my mill with a drill before I got a gear motor for it. The right angle drive halves the rpm and doubles the torgue. It worked very well and I would still be using it if I had not stumbled upon the gear motor.

 

[lschiavo]

You could add a right angle drive to your existing drill. It'll be cheaper than electronics to slow it down, better for your drill because you can run as it was designed, and double your torque...

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vermont-American-Drill-Right-Angle-Drive-/370286706282?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5636cebe6a

The drill I use is rated 600 RPM. I never thought of the reduction. I guess I am milling at 300RPM then? That is closer to what is recommended for the MM3.

I really like the right angle drill as everything breaks down easy as opposed to a permanent setup. I have the Hopper and base which is attached to a bucket lid. I mount the drill to the shaft then rest it on an upside down bucket. Lock the trigger and it is a hands free mill.

 

[kmacva]

I don't know if you have a True Value Store close, but they had an ad this last weekend for a 18 Volt Cordless Drill with a 55 Piece Drill bit set for ~ $20.00. Here's a link it's flash so you will have to click on power tools. Pretty good deal and It might come in handy around the house.


Kazi

 

[kmacva]

Sorry forgot the link.

http://truevalue.shoplocal.com/true...YOYRHGOH-5R25-RQQT-K6DX-G0H36O7XZ3SB&Adref=xx

 

[lschiavo]

I don't know if you have a True Value Store close, but they had an ad this last weekend for a 18 Volt Cordless Drill with a 55 Piece Drill bit set for ~ $20.00. Here's a link it's flash so you will have to click on power tools. Pretty good deal and It might come in handy around the house.


Kazi

I dont think that would come close to the drills we are talking about. I have a pretty good cordless and I would not even consider using it for milling. Not nearly enough torque or battery capacity.

Here is what I have (mine is much older)

These are the specs:

milwaukee 3107 6 1/2 D Handle Right Angle Drill Kit Milwaukee 3107 6 Specifications: Volts: 120V Amps: 7 Capacity in Steel: 1/2 No Load RPM : 0 500 No Load RPM Low : 0 335 No Load RPM High : 0 750 Gear Train: Quadruple Milwaukee 3107 6 Includes: Right Angle Drive 9/16 Open End Wrench 3/16 Socket Wrench Chuck Remover Bar Side Handle Impact Resistant Carrying Case 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set Milwaukee 3107 6 Features: 1/2 Trigger speed control reversing 7 Amp Milwaukee motor Use with up to 4 5/8 selfeed bits Durable glass reinforced nylon handles Helical cut heat treated gears All ball and roller bearings Variable speed control reversing Head and handle swivel 360 Can Be Locked Tight In Any Position Includes 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set

 

[SweetSounds]

I dont think that would come close to the drills we are talking about. I have a pretty good cordless and I would not even consider using it for milling. Not nearly enough torque or battery capacity.

Here is what I have (mine is much older)

These are the specs:

milwaukee 3107 6 1/2 D Handle Right Angle Drill Kit Milwaukee 3107 6 Specifications: Volts: 120V Amps: 7 Capacity in Steel: 1/2 No Load RPM : 0 500 No Load RPM Low : 0 335 No Load RPM High : 0 750 Gear Train: Quadruple Milwaukee 3107 6 Includes: Right Angle Drive 9/16 Open End Wrench 3/16 Socket Wrench Chuck Remover Bar Side Handle Impact Resistant Carrying Case 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set Milwaukee 3107 6 Features: 1/2 Trigger speed control reversing 7 Amp Milwaukee motor Use with up to 4 5/8 selfeed bits Durable glass reinforced nylon handles Helical cut heat treated gears All ball and roller bearings Variable speed control reversing Head and handle swivel 360 Can Be Locked Tight In Any Position Includes 8 3 Wire Quik Lok Cord Set

I've got the same drill - Chuck up a 1" nail-eater bit - Feed it a 6x6 - and hang the hell on! You couldn't stop that thing from turning if you put a 6' bar on the handle and tied it to a truck :rockin:
(Or, for example, if the bit catches - stopping the bit and turning the drill, with your hand, right into the wall. Don't ask how I know...) It's almost as much fun as riding a 6" belt sander!

 

[GreenMonti]

Out of curiosity........what's the diameter or your rollers?