Redesigned Blichmann Engineering AutoSparge

[BlichmannEngineering]

Just added an updated product to our web page - the redesigned AutoSparge. We had a lot of feedback from brewers wanting an all stainless valve body and hose float ball. We've worked with our suppliers to implement it at a $20 price increase. $70 for the complete assembly. We've improved the mounting threads with a hybrid - NPT on the first half and straight where it mounts to the pot/cooler for better mounting and flexibility of hose connectors and fitting types. We've also closed up the clearances of the shaft a bit to reduce bypass flow. Not sure that many people know, but we've added two longer float arms this past summer to increase the operational range for larger pots.

All of these were things we heard through our feedback page so thanks for the input!

John B

Here is a link to the page: http://www.blichmannengineering.com/products/autosparge™

 

[Bensiff]

That is a nice improvement for those of us who have put a lot of expense into building a stainless system. A TC version of this would be excellent as well.

 

[passedpawn]

[thread moved from Beginners section]

 

[Doctor_M]

I would of bought one of these a long time ago if I could figure out how to get it to work with my brew magic.

 

[BlichmannEngineering]

Doctor M - you should be able to just install this in the mash tun. With the brew magic you need to manually adjust the hot liquor flow if I recall correctly. Putting the AutoSparge in the MT will automatically regulate the flow into the tun. Or am I missing something obvious...

John B

 

[Doctor_M]

Doctor M - you should be able to just install this in the mash tun. With the brew magic you need to manually adjust the hot liquor flow if I recall correctly. Putting the AutoSparge in the MT will automatically regulate the flow into the tun. Or am I missing something obvious...

John B

You are correct in needing to manually adjust the flow, the problem is the smooth fitting (I guess I'd call it a ferule) that normally a silicone hose is slipped over. It is not threaded. I suppose I could have someone custom weld a mpt thread in place of it but that's more trouble and money then I think it's worth. Thanks for the reply and the awesome innovations and support you guys provide to the homebrewing community

 

[Barnesie]

There were issues reported when using an autosparge with a pump. Is this still not recommended with the new version?

 

[BlichmannEngineering]

Doctor M - I guess I still misunderstand - what would you need to connect onto the hose barb outlet? Is there a reason that you can't just use the AutoSparge as is with the Brew Magic? I seem to recall that they just used a hose as well - could be wrong about that.

Barnesie - I am not familiar with the problems using it with a pump. We use this all the time with a pump and don't have any problems. The only things I have know about is leakage out the end of the sliding shaft - some is completely normal and not detrimental as it just drains on the top of the mash. We loosen the clearances so that it doesn't stick and malfunction. If you have wort spraying out of the end then you simple have excessive pump pressure and simply need to throttle the outlet of the pump a bit. If there are other issues let me know and I will address.

John B

 

[Barnesie]

I think there was anecdotal talk here and there that a pump could overdrive the assembly and shoot wort out, probably exactly what you're talking about. I didn't experience this myself, just heard talk that it "didn't work well with a pump".

Looks like a nice solid upgrade to me...now if I could just scrounge up the funds for the ToP and a conical.

You can sponsor me if you like John!

 

[Doctor_M]

We've improved the mounting threads with a hybrid - NPT on the first half and straight where it mounts to the pot/cooler for better mounting and flexibility of hose connectors and fitting types.

Hmmmm it seems I overlooked this part John, with the picture I provided does this appear like it will work as is? Just want your input before I pull the trigger.

Doctor M - I guess I still misunderstand - what would you need to connect onto the hose barb outlet? Is there a reason that you can't just use the AutoSparge as is with the Brew Magic? I seem to recall that they just used a hose as well - could be wrong about that.

John B

The problem is connecting the actual autosparge assembly to the outlet in my mash tun. It appears it needs to be threaded on?

Correct on the brew magic just utilizing a hose that is connected to a non threaded ferrule at the top of the mash tun. I just slip on a silicone hose and let her rip. The problem on getting it to work is with that ferrule as it is smooth and non threaded. Im wondering if I bought a compression fitting and tightened it on that smooth ferrule if I could then screw the autosparge on. Perhaps I am wrong but it appears that the auto sparge is of weldless fitting design. I am working on getting a picture but my sabco is at my brewing buddies house. If we can figure out how to make this work within a reasonable cost I will buy one.

ETA: Got a picture of it thanks to my brewing buddy!

It appears it is 3/4" long and 1/2" diameter

 

[BlichmannEngineering]

Ahhhh - now I understand what you mean. You could either abandon the "tube" you show and install the AutoSparge in a separate hole (it is weldless as you indicate) or you might be able to use a compression X female NPT adapter.

John B

 

[Doctor_M]

Ahhhh - now I understand what you mean. You could either abandon the " tube" you show and install the AutoSparge in a separate hole (it is weldless as you indicate) or you might be able to use a compression X female NPT adapter.

John B

Thanks! I am going to look further into the compression route, as I don't want to drill another hole. Ill keep you guys in the loop with what I do!

 

[sstokesjr]

Just discovered there was a redesigned version this morning. The straight threads really had me stuck on figuring out how to connect things up. Especially as I was building my system to use Camlock connections. I'm hoping MoreBeer will let me exchange the older version I bought in December to get the new one.

 

[mcl]

So is the part that is on the exterior of the pot npt or straight? I am reading it as they are straight threads which limits what I can connect to it.


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[sstokesjr]

As I understand it, new design has hybrid threads meaning threads on the end are NPT and threads near where you'd install in pot are straight.

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[mcl]

Ah, thanks.


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[augiedoggy]

certianly more elegant than my budget system.....
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/float-spenser-adjustable-sparge-arm-461657/

 

[BlichmannEngineering]

The hybrid threads allow the nut to fully engage by the pot, but allow a NPT fitting to be installed. Our line of QuickConnectors work with either thread. MOST NPT fittings will thread onto the old version but some only get a thread or two of engagement. The NPT spec is quite broad, and many off the shelf fittings don't actually meet it. But this new design should accommodate about any NPT threaded fitting including those that aren't quite up to spec.

John B

 

[1801]

what is the thread count on the all thread rods? I would order them but Blichmann makes it a total PITA. I thought it was 1/4 28 tread size.

After contacting two online resellers and one local shop, I can't get an answer on cost for the 9" and 12" rod. Nor can I contact Blichmann since they have no phone number listed on their website.

Can't understand why from the beginning you would even send out a 6" rod. Don't most all grain brewers brew in kettles that are at least 20 gallon? Or up the price and send out all three from the release of the auto sparge.

 

[BlichmannEngineering]

Hi guys - the thread is 6mm. The 6" rod offers plenty of range for the normal grain bill in about any size pot. However, there are a lot of brewers that want to do 5 gal batches in a 10 gal setup and would like more float range. To respond to that we came out with the 9" and 12" rods. Stainless is not a cheap material so including all three as standard would drive the cost and price up for the 90% of brewers that the 6" rod works perfectly for.

The longer rods are fairly new so many of the retailers aren't up to speed yet. But ALL of them can order from our wholesale commerce site.

Your patience with the retailers is appreciated. These are mostly very small businesses and it isn't easy to keep up with everything going on. But I know they appreciate your patronage and understanding. These are the people that truly made the hobby what it is today.

John B

 

[mcl]

Ordered one yesterday. Looking forward to trying it out.


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[1801]

Hi guys - the thread is 6mm. The 6" rod offers plenty of range for the normal grain bill in about any size pot. However, there are a lot of brewers that want to do 5 gal batches in a 10 gal setup and would like more float range. To respond to that we came out with the 9" and 12" rods. Stainless is not a cheap material so including all three as standard would drive the cost and price up for the 90% of brewers that the 6" rod works perfectly for.

The longer rods are fairly new so many of the retailers aren't up to speed yet. But ALL of them can order from our wholesale commerce site.

Your patience with the retailers is appreciated. These are mostly very small businesses and it isn't easy to keep up with everything going on. But I know they appreciate your patronage and understanding. These are the people that truly made the hobby what it is today.

John B

In a 30 gallon kettle tun brewing a 10 G batch, the six inch rod isn't working for even a high gravity beer that has around 35 lbs of grain. This is all relative to grain and water obviously as it brings the height of the grain/water up. I suppose if I did a 15 G batch, the 6 inch rod would work out better. Not sure how guys brew all grain in a 10 G kettle unless it's a pretty low gravity beer.

 

[Doctor_M]

In a 30 gallon kettle tun brewing a 10 G batch, the six inch rod isn't working for even a high gravity beer that has around 35 lbs of grain. This is all relative to grain and water obviously as it brings the height of the grain/water up. I suppose if I did a 15 G batch, the 6 inch rod would work out better. Not sure how guys brew all grain in a 10 G kettle unless it's a pretty low gravity beer.

A 30 gallon kettle for a 10 gallon batch is most of your problem I think.... As for your statement on brewing a high gravity beer in a 10 gallon pot of course it can be done. You just don't get 10 gallons of beer at the end. Also per your other post I think you'll find the most common size is 15.5 as keggle setups seem to be most common.

 

[HellBentBrewCo]

I recently bought this and was dissapointed that it doesn't come with 1/2" ID silicone tubing as this is what most brewers use. The float doesn't allow it. I'm purchasing my own float so this doesn't become a choke point on my system.

 

[UofMontanaAlum]

I recently bought this and was dissapointed that it doesn't come with 1/2" ID silicone tubing as this is what most brewers use. The float doesn't allow it. I'm purchasing my own float so this doesn't become a choke point on my system.

Choke point? Are you planning on doing some high speed sparging? There is typically only a slow trickle coming out of my AutoSparge during sparge so increased tube size would make no difference.

I've had the AS for a couple years and love it. Works perfect every time.

 

[fpweeks]

I have a full 1/2 NPT coupling welded to the top of my tun. Would this thread into that, as i'm not interested in drilling another hole in my kettle.

oh, and i'm really glad i waited to buy this!

 

[BlichmannEngineering]

You should be able to thread this into any 1/2" NPT fitting. Choked flow: I would recommend trying the product as is first. The inner dimensions of the AutoSparge aren't any bigger than 3/8" so I don't think it will change anything. ANd if you're sparging over a 45-60 min period the flow will be throttled way back automatically from the AutoSparge. If you're using in a RIMS setup it'll provide plenty of flow with a pump as is. Hope that helps!

John B

 

[HellBentBrewCo]

Choke point? Are you planning on doing some high speed sparging? There is typically only a slow trickle coming out of my AutoSparge during sparge so increased tube size would make no difference.

I've had the AS for a couple years and love it. Works perfect every time.

I recycle through my herms coil at full speed. Not sure if it will be a choke point or not but I'd rather have the tubing all the same size for simplicity

 

[exhumedatbirth]

Nice....wish I didn't just install the old version earlier thid evening!

 

[orangehero]

What is the diameter of the hole in the stainless float ball for the tubing and are they available for sale separately?

 

[sstokesjr]

You should be able to thread this into any 1/2" NPT fitting. Choked flow: I would recommend trying the product as is first. The inner dimensions of the AutoSparge aren't any bigger than 3/8" so I don't think it will change anything. ANd if you're sparging over a 45-60 min period the flow will be throttled way back automatically from the AutoSparge. If you're using in a RIMS setup it'll provide plenty of flow with a pump as is. Hope that helps!

John B

John

Is there a way to order just the main stainless steel body? I have an older model I was trying to rethread to adapt to Camlock fittings but die has become stuck and I've had no luck just yet getting it off. I'd hate to have to order a completely new model before I've tried the old one.

 

[BlichmannEngineering]

Well, that is where most of the cost is. And we don't have that set up for our retailers to order directly. By the time we special ordered through a retailer it may not be any cheaper than buying the whole thing. I guess I'm a bit confused by the cam-lock issue. Is that a 1/2" NPT thread? The new stainless units have an industry spec NPT cut on them and then into a straight thread (NPSH) for the nut. The brass were NPSH all the way to allow thicker pots and coolers to be used. THhy fit nearly all NPT fittings, except those that were cut under spec....more common that you'd think. We check ours with an NIST thread go-no-go gauge.

John

 

[sstokesjr]

Well, that is where most of the cost is. And we don't have that set up for our retailers to order directly. By the time we special ordered through a retailer it may not be any cheaper than buying the whole thing. I guess I'm a bit confused by the cam-lock issue. Is that a 1/2" NPT thread? The new stainless units have an industry spec NPT cut on them and then into a straight thread (NPSH) for the nut. The brass were NPSH all the way to allow thicker pots and coolers to be used. THhy fit nearly all NPT fittings, except those that were cut under spec....more common that you'd think. We check ours with an NIST thread go-no-go gauge.

John

Thanks for the reply John. Yeah, I've been getting the camlock fittings through Bobby @ Brewhardware.com. I had to rethread the brass to get more one turn on the threads. I was able to get my maintenance shop at work to help get the stuck tool off. Autosparge is installed now and I'm off on completing my build. Hope to be brewing by National Homebrew Day.