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It came today :ban: Let it not be said I can't hit the broad side of a barn. Hell, I can hit the front side of a shed just fine. Next I'll try hitting the target. :eek:
 
Yeah. Strung it up with the push/pull method since I couldn't find a stringer near by this evening.

It's harder to pull back with bare finger tips than I thought, so I used my old assist. I'll learn finger though. Maybe with a glove.
 
I probably wouldn't use a release on it.
First, I'm not sure how good it is on the string.
Second, the action of the string, and therefore the arrow is a lot different with fingers so you will be learning wrong.

I've always had a glove, but I've shot bare fingers mostly. Your fingers will get used to it.
You do want an arm guard though!
 
This thread made me pull out my bow. I'm thinking it has to be about 45yrs old. It's a colt gamemaster 43# @28" . Man that was a great bow. I should get it strung but not sure I could still pull it back.
 
Try a glove or a tab. I've shot with both but find the glove easier. The tab gives a smoother release but takes some getting used to.
 
When I shot I preferred a cowhide tab. I thought it equalized the finger pressure more evenly on the string. With a glove I would sometimes pull harder with my ring finger, sometimes with the index finger. For target shooting it could make a difference.
 
Arm guards. Is it more likely to hit my arm with a recurve? Never had that happen with a compound. I'll probably make a guard anyway, just to be cool looking.

And I must say, this recurve is so light. Especially compared to my compound. Granted, my compound is old and not made of the lightest compound bow materials, but still. This recurve is light.
 
I don't think there is any reason it would be more likely to hit your arm with the string using a recurve. I never shot without one but never noticed any real wear on the guard. It's not like you would hit your arm every time. That said I've managed a few shots where the string went between the guard and my arm. The more your elbow points down at full draw the more you need one. If your elbow at draw is pointed towards the ground you are more likely to hit your arm than if it points horizontal to the ground.
 
Arm guards are nice for hunting with a coat because they'll will hold your sleeve out of the way.
 
As far as hitting your arm more with a recurve, I think you would. If you are using good form your body is going to be in a straight line with your forward shoulder facing the target, your arm extended and the elbow of your rear arm pointed behind you. Further, if you are shooting instinctive (focus on target, draw, anchor point, release), you are not pulling back the bow and resting, then likely bowing out your lead forearm a bit like on a compound.

Get yourself a glove and shoot fingers (put release in case with compound). I use split fingers (two below, one above). Some folks recommend three below for accuracy (which allows you to look right down the arrow but in doing so you really aren't shooting instinctive).

Next, pick up "The Beginner's Guide to Traditional Archery". In it you will be given some good guidance form and drills for accuracy. Until you get the book, I will throw you the first shooting practice. Shoot from the five yard mark at a 2" (I think that’s the size) bullseye at eye level. Then put a dot in the middle of the bullseye. Shoot only 1 or 2 arrows at a time so you won't be as likely to just throw a dozen arrows down range. Focus on the dot in the center of the bullseye (burn a hole through it with your eyes prior to drawing) then while still focusing on the center of the bullseye bring the bow up and shoot. Once you have hit the bullseye 500 consecutive times without missing move back to ten yards. Wash and repeat.

Focusing on a single, tiny spot on the target is key. Here is a fun little experiment to prove my point. Go and shoot at a blank 3' x 3' target just trying to hit the center of the target. Now shoot from the same distance focusing on a 6" bullseye. Now focus on a 1" bullseye. While you would think your groups should have been just as tight, assuming you were focusing and you remembered the face of your father, the tightest group will when shooting at the smallest bullseye. I guess our minds are subconsciously lazy and will only expend the minimal amount of effort and concentration required. Ask any traditional archer who hunts and he will likely tell you that he is not aiming at the animal or the vitals or behind the shoulder. He is aiming at a hair that is over the vitals behind the shoulder.

For some cheap targets I use grain bags from my LHBS filled with old plastic bags from the grocery store. Stuff them as tight as possible. They work GREAT!!!!

Good luck and practice, practice, practice

Archery.jpg
 
15 yards. Shooting off the shelf. No sights. Gloved fingers, one over/two under. Aiming for the black dot in the very center.

I'll set up something better (J8D style) later. I was excited to shoot today, and wanted to be sure the bow was really holding together, had the right arrows and arrow stop would really work. All good there.

I didn't count how many I shot, but when I took my glove off, my finger tips were white. Me likey this. :D

arrow 122712 15yrds.jpg
 
Not a traditional archer, but a francophone. Bois= wood. D'arc = of bow. Nothing foncé (dark) in there! This thread reminds me I should head over to the range this weekend. Good stuff!
 
So I was out launching arrows, moved out to ~18 yards, and shaved off most of the vane on one arrow with another arrow. Anyone know where I can get replacement feathers? These arrows are 10 bucks each, so I'd like to repair it.

I'll check the shop I bought them at. Gateway Feathers looks good too, but looks like they only offer a limited selection online. Some other places want me to buy $50 worth at a time. Ebay, maybe?
 
I'd say get some from 3 rivers if you can't find them locally. You need to know if the fletching is right wing or left wing.

You're also gonna need a fletching jig and double sided tape or glue. I'd recommend getting a bitzenburger fletching jig. They're expensive but are worth the money.
 
You wanna start with the shop where you bought it because you need a jig to put the feathers on correctly.
They should have a fletching jig.
Three Rivers her any number of places would have the feathers, but like I said you need a Jig to put them on right.

You're going to want to buy a jig at some point in the future, but unless you want to buy one now see if the shop where you bought the arrows can fix them.
 
Why not just make your own. Osage Orange is the wood you need. Mike

x2...
been making my own for many years now and shoot nearly every day...it's the only thing(almost:ban:) that I know of that I enjoy more than making/drinking beer. I just discovered this thread and would be more than happy to help anyone interested in trad. archery.
Bob

:tank:
 
Samick Sage @ 45# here... absolutely love traditional archery. I've made many arrows and targets, but love shooting flu-flus at birds.

I've been trying to get a pheasant with my recurve for the past two seasons, I've come very close, but haven't done it yet.
 
I would love to build a bow actually, anyone have any resources I could look into to learn to make a recurve or takedown?

seems its something I could really get into, i need to build something soon!
 
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