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Recomendations on buying a first homebrew pump?

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Blichmann Riptide for sure. I have 2 Chugger's that have been unused and dusty since buying the Riptides. The external power switch, Tri Clamp assembly for easy head cleaning, water resistant housing, built in flow control and air relief valve fixes all of my complaints with the Chuggers. Yeah they are expensive but totally worth it.
 
Here is the pump thrust washer
Pump Thrust Washer.jpg


Don't forget to oil the pump at least once a year. Only! 1 or 2 drops of oil. Also, only put the 1 or 2 drops of oil in the correct pump oil port.
Pump Oil.jpg


I've also replace the pump head machine screws (#8-32x1 inch) with the same, but hex head as the phillips or SAE head machine screws strip at the worst times. Regular machine screw on the left, hex head machine screw on the right.
Pump Head Machine Screw.jpg
 
As much as I love the Riptide’s over all performance and form factor, there is a huge safety red flag for me. The purge valve to prime the pump can’t be controlled and gets hot wort all over... it’s an accident waiting to happen.

move been surprised to see that the design iteration has stayed so long without some revision to make it safer.
 
[raises hand] Yo!

I've replaced the thrust washers in my two 815-PLs every 1-2 years since I bought them forever ago (2004 maybe?)
I recirculate ~150°F PBW solution through my 3v2p single tier rig for a good half hour at least and it definitely does thin down the thrust washers...

Cheers!
 
Has anyone personally actually experienced teflon being broken down by PBW? Teflon is pretty bullet proof stuff. I find it hard to believe PBW touches it.

The PBW grains cause the propeller to rub against the thrust washer thereby wearing the thrust washer.

Thrust washers are cheap. Replace them!
 
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[raises hand] Yo!

I've replaced the thrust washers in my two 815-PLs every 1-2 years since I bought them forever ago (2004 maybe?)
I recirculate ~150°F PBW solution through my 3v2p single tier rig for a good half hour at least and it definitely does thin down the thrust washers...

Cheers!

I can accept that. I still wonder if that's general wear from use and if any other cleaner (or no cleaner) run through it would have done the same.

Maybe PBW attacks Teflon, but (from my experience with medical products, surface treatments and coatings including teflon) I've found it incredibly difficult to do much to it, outside of some hard core vacuum plasma treatments and even then it recovers over time.

Hmm maybe I'll have to give it a try. It wouldn't be the first time homebrewing experience has crossed over into my work, as a process idea.
 
PBW does leech teflon. I learned this while soaking valves with teflon tape fittings. Water was cloudy and the tape was stringy and mushy. Very strange stuff!
 
Don't forget to oil the pump at least once a year. Only! 1 or 2 drops of oil. Also, only put the 1 or 2 drops of oil in the correct pump oil port.

I've also replace the pump head machine screws (#8-32x1 inch) with the same, but hex head as the phillips or SAE head machine screws strip at the worst times. Regular machine screw on the left, hex head machine screw on the right.
View attachment 694748

I appreciate the reminder about oil maintenance, however the screw you refer to as a hex head is actually known as a socket head cap screw. A very good suggestion to replace the original with that screw imo.

Thanks
 
I ordered a replacement before I saw the earlier post. Needed a couple other things anyway. Here's what my old Teflon ring looks like:
20200821_160439.jpg
20200821_160434.jpg
 
Lol, I'd never stick a thinned out washer like that back in :)
And there's a good chance you'll hear the impeller rattle and occasionally let out a screech before the thrust washer is totally gone...

Cheers!
 
Yeah, it was super flimsy; plus the fact that it wasn't pumping right and replacing it is super cheap, it's a no-brainer to replace this. While I'm at it, also replacing the gasket on the head.
Sorry for hi-jacking the thread...
 

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