recipe diagnoses...feedback?

[Chuckus95]

I'm to a point where I'm staying away from Crystal malts in my IPAs. When I do a lighter color IPA, I go with:

93% 2-Row
5% Victory
2% Honey Malt

 

[langdonk1]

I'm to a point where I'm staying away from Crystal malts in my IPAs. When I do a lighter color IPA, I go with:

93% 2-Row
5% Victory
2% Honey Malt

I just formulated my recipe to
89.7 % 2 ROW
5.2% Vienna
5.2% carapils

What is honey malt?

 

[langdonk1]

What's the lighter of the malts between victory, vienna, and munich, light munich....anything else ?

 

[Chuckus95]

I just formulated my recipe to
89.7 % 2 ROW
5.2% Vienna
5.2% carapils

What is honey malt?

Here is a description:

Honey Malt is a unique malt produced by the Gambrinus Malting Corporation, a small malting company in Armstrong, British Columbia, Canada. It is made using a special process that develops distinctive flavors. The unique process puts Honey malt in the same family as German ‘brumalt’, and melanoidin malt. The result is an intense malt sweetness free from roasted or astringent flavors, with a characteristic honey-like flavor and golden color. It really doesn’t compare to any other malt. It’s unique qualities and sweet maltiness make it a perfect specialty malt in many styles. It can be used for up to 10% of the grist but the flavor can become assertive at higher usage rates. 20-30°L

I agree that it is very unique, but you want to be very careful and not get too heavy-handed with it.

 

[sweetcell]

What's the lighter of the malts between victory, vienna, and munich, light munich....anything else ?

of those 4, vienna is the lightest.

2-row is lighter, and pils is even lighter.

 

[Chuckus95]

I just formulated my recipe to
89.7 % 2 ROW
5.2% Vienna
5.2% carapils

If you want to go a little darker (around 7-9 SRM), add a bit more complexity, but still have the hops shine, I like the following grain bill:

71.4% 2-row
14.3% Vienna
3.6% Honey Malt
3.6% CaraRed
3.6% Carapils
3.6% Turbinado Sugar

 

[JKaranka]

For a dry finishing light IPA I've used 10% wheat malt and 2% crystal. Good head, no haze, doesn't taste like having wheat in it, just lightens and sharpens it up a bit.

 

[langdonk1]

I don't like crystal in my ipa's. I like a lighter grain bill and let the hops take over. I go with a Dry English ale yeast to really crisp things up a bit.

 

[langdonk1]

If you want to go a little darker (around 7-9 SRM), add a bit more complexity, but still have the hops shine, I like the following grain bill:

71.4% 2-row
14.3% Vienna
3.6% Honey Malt
3.6% CaraRed
3.6% Carapils
3.6% Turbinado Sugar

What hops do you use for that combo? If you don't mind me asking

 

[langdonk1]

Need help with arranging an appropriate hop schedule
5 gallons

Grains:
13 lbs 2 row (89.7%)
12 Oz vienna (5.2%)
12 Oz Carapils (5.2%)

OG:1.075

MASH: 149F for 60 mins

Hops:
1 oz. Warrior 15% AAU
1 oz. Amarillo 8.4% AAU
2 oz. Simcoe 13.2% AAU
1 oz. Cascade 7.3% AAU
1 oz. Summit 14.2% AAU
3 oz. Citra 14.1% AAU
1 oz. Falconers flight 10.8% AAU

Yeast: white labs Dry English Ale WPA

Please help me figure out a well balanced IPA

 

[ddicker60]

Here is what I would do:

1oz warrior at 60,
1oz each cascade, simcoe, citra at 5/0
1oz each citra in Summit @ 180 for a 30min Hop Steep
Dry hop with the rest

 

[Glynn]

1 oz warrior @ 60
2 oz simcoe @ 30
1 oz amarillo @ 15
3 oz citra dry hop

 

[langdonk1]

Here is what I would do:

1oz warrior at 60,
1oz each cascade, simcoe, citra at 5/0
1oz each citra in Summit @ 180 for a 30min Hop Steep
Dry hop with the rest

+1 I'm a fan of saving all my hops for the last 5 minutes and steep

 

[DarthCitra]

Here is what I would do:

1oz warrior at 60,
1oz each cascade, simcoe, citra at 5/0
1oz each citra in Summit @ 180 for a 30min Hop Steep
Dry hop with the rest

FWH with a couple ounces too!

 

[langdonk1]

FWH with a couple ounces too!

A couple ounces? Won't it be too bitter?

 

[johngaltsmotor]

a couple ounces? Won't it be too bitter?

blasphemy!!!

 

[m1k3]

I pretty much agree with everyone...

Warrior (or Magnum or Millennium) scream bittering hop addition.

Citra is great (as a very late addition or dry hop) so split it 50/50 between dry and flameout.

I dry hopped with Falconer Flight before and loved it. It is a blend of hops already so I think you might have a few too many variates. (not saying it can't be done but it may just be wasted or muddy up the hop character)

I did a similar beer and put the Amarillo in at 10 minutes. I could not tell it was even in there. Maybe it added some complexity but Simcoe would be a lot more prominent.

So, that's my 2 cents... much the same as the others but maybe keep the Amarillo, Summit and Cascade for another day.

 

[langdonk1]

I pretty much agree with everyone...

Warrior (or Magnum or Millennium) scream bittering hop addition.

Citra is great (as a very late addition or dry hop) so split it 50/50 between dry and flameout.

I dry hopped with Falconer Flight before and loved it. It is a blend of hops already so I think you might have a few too many variates. (not saying it can't be done but it may just be wasted or muddy up the hop character)

I did a similar beer and put the Amarillo in at 10 minutes. I could not tell it was even in there. Maybe it added some complexity but Simcoe would be a lot more prominent.

So, that's my 2 cents... much the same as the others but maybe keep the Amarillo, Summit and Cascade for another day.

So would you recommend only using around 3 hop varieties?

 

[DarthCitra]

A couple ounces? Won't it be too bitter?

FWH bitterness mellows out. people calculate the IBU's like a 15 min addition or so. :rockin:

 

[GCPHomebrew]

As long as the beer can still make co2 I would.


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[olotti]

I cold crash my primary(glass Carboy) just remember to remove the airlock. You can double dry hop this way also. Once in the primary, cold crash, in the secondary, cold crash(or not on the second one)



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Newb AG here. Why remove the airlock when cold crashing???? I plan on dryhoping in my primary bucket for 5 days in muslin bags, do I still need to A) cold crash and if so remove the airlock too. I do have a 5 Gal glass carboy, better to rack to that and dry hop after 14 days, cold crash then bottle. With my setup I transfer with an autosiphon so the less hop mess to worry about the better. Sorry for thread jack.

 

[langdonk1]

Newb AG here. Why remove the airlock when cold crashing???? I plan on dryhoping in my primary bucket for 5 days in muslin bags, do I still need to A) cold crash and if so remove the airlock too. I do have a 5 Gal glass carboy, better to rack to that and dry hop after 14 days, cold crash then bottle. With my setup I transfer with an autosiphon so the less hop mess to worry about the better. Sorry for thread jack.

Do not remove airlock!!!! If you have an S shaped airlock you will be fine. Just fill it to the appropriate line with star San water. I just bottled my IPA and the sample was insanely delicious. Don't transfer to secondary. Just dry hop right in the fermenter for 3 days, cold crash for 2 DAYS. 5 days total hop contact. Just enough, believe me. No need for muslin bags either

 

[langdonk1]

This is my first all grain recipe I put together. Want comments and suggestions. Brewing a IIPA. 1.O82 OG. 5 gallon batch.

Grains:
13 lbs 2 row
12 oz Vienna Malt
12 oz Carapils
8 oz local orange blossom honey

Hops:
1 oz warrior FWH
1 oz simcoe 20 mins
1 oz cascade 5 mins
1 oz simcoe 5 mins
1 oz citra 5 mins
1 oz amarillo 170F hop steep 15 mins
1 oz citra 170F hop steep 15 mins
Dry Hop:
1 oz citra
1 oz falconers flight

Yeast: White Labs Dry English Ale

 

[Calypso]

Haha, that's better. I was about to reply and suggest that 2 oz of hops in an IIPA might be a touch light...

 

[langdonk1]

This is my first all grain recipe I put together. Want comments and suggestions. Brewing a IIPA. 1.O82 OG. 5 gallon batch.

Grains:
13 lbs 2 row
12 oz Vienna Malt
12 oz Carapils
8 oz local orange blossom honey

Hops:
1 oz warrior FWH
1 oz simcoe 20 mins
1 oz cascade 5 mins
1 oz simcoe 5 mins
1 oz citra 5 mins
1 oz amarillo 170F hop steep 15 mins
1 oz citra 170F hop steep 15 mins
Dry Hop:
1 oz citra
1 oz falconers flight

Yeast: White Labs Dry English Ale

 

[langdonk1]

Haha, that's better. I was about to reply and suggest that 2 oz of hops in an IIPA might be a touch light...

Tablet descided to post on its own. That would be humerous if that was all the hops i would use. This is the updated recipe up top.

 

[badlee]

Looks good.
Only point I would raise is that with all those beautiful hops you will not notice the orange blossom honey.
I would use simple sugar in its place and use the honey in a beer which will let it shine, like a saison.

 

[logdrum]

You remove the airlock to prevent suck back, often the contraction of the cooling beer will pull your airlock liquid into the carboy/bucket. Not an issue w/ the one piece s shaped air locks, however it is w/ the 3 piece ones. Personally, I pull the airlock, dump the star san & reinsert without liquid.


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[langdonk1]

IIPA

Batch size: 5 gallons
Boil time: 60 mins
Est. OG : 1.084
IBU : 100.4
Color : 5.1 SRM
Est ABV : 8.5%
Total hops : 9 oz

Grain Bill:
13 lbs pale 2-row 82.5%
12 oz Vienna Malt 3.5 SRM 4.8%
12 oz Cara-pils 2.0 SRM 4.8%
4 oz flaked Oats, lightly toasted 1.6%

Miscellaneous:
12 oz local orange blossom honey
4 oz sucrose table sugar
.25 tsp irish moss

Hop Schedule:
.5 oz Warrior FWH
.5 oz summit 60 min
.5 oz warrior 60 min
.5 oz cascade 20 mins
1 oz citra 5 mins
.5 oz cascade 5 mins
.5 oz simcoe 5 mins
.5 oz summit 5 mins
1 oz amarillo steep 170F 30 min
1 oz citra steep 170F 30 min
.5 oz Simcoe steep 170F 30 min

Dry Hop :
1 oz citra 5 days
1 oz simcoe 5 days

Yeast :
WLP007 Dry English Ale

 

[langdonk1]

That sounds good! I have a ton of homegrown cascades and centennial to use up, and a friend gave me a pound of citra. I think I see a "Three Cs" type of beer coming. Make sure you let us know how it comes out in the end!

About dryhopping- while you can certainly dryhop any time you'd like, generally you get the most out of it if you package immediately after dryhopping. In other words, dryhop last.

If you're going to transfer, age, add finings, etc, I'd do that all first and dryhop for the last 3-7 days right before bottling. Hops aromas are the very first thing to fade, so dryhopping and then aging the beer a week or two before bottling gives a bit of time for the aroma to already start dissipating.

This beer was delicious