Reading my Hydrometer - too many bubbles!

[Nicknack]

I searched the board for an answer to my question but was not able to find one. The problem that I'm experiencing (as a new brewer) is that when I take a reading (i.e. from the primary), I sanitize my wine thief, insert it through one of the big bubbler ports and then take it out. I then place the hydrometer inside the wine thief where it floats. The issue is that there are too many bubbles inside the wine thief that they keep me from accurately reading the hydrometer. For example, last night I could tell it was between 1.014 and 1.018 but was not able to see exactly which mark the beer was on. I decided to set my wine thief aside and came back to it about an hour later. That helped me see that it was between 1.015 and 1.016 but still couldn't see for certain because there were still some bubbles that remained.

It seems to me that Star San is the culprit as it leaves bubbles on anything that is sprayed. Should I use another sanitizer that doesn't leave bubbles behind? What do other people do so that they can accurately read their hydrometer?

 

[beskone]

I usually let my samples sit for a few minutes to let the big bubbles die down, then a quick spin of the hydrometer in the test jar will dislodge / pop enough of the small bubbles to get a good reading.

 

[Nicknack]

Maybe I shouldn't sanitize my hydrometer? The reason I'm thinking this is because now that I think about it, there is no need to and sanitizing it adds more solution (hence bubbles) to the wine thief.

 

[Gavin C]

I searched the board for an answer to my question but was not able to find one. The problem that I'm experiencing (as a new brewer) is that when I take a reading (i.e. from the primary), I sanitize my wine thief, insert it through one of the big bubbler ports and then take it out. I then place the hydrometer inside the wine thief where it floats. The issue is that there are too many bubbles inside the wine thief that they keep me from accurately reading the hydrometer. For example, last night I could tell it was between 1.014 and 1.018 but was not able to see exactly which mark the beer was on. I decided to set my wine thief aside and came back to it about an hour later. That helped me see that it was between 1.015 and 1.016 but still couldn't see for certain because there were still some bubbles that remained.

It seems to me that Star San is the culprit as it leaves bubbles on anything that is sprayed. Should I use another sanitizer that doesn't leave bubbles behind? What do other people do so that they can accurately read their hydrometer?

Use a test jar. Right tool for the job.

Bubbles will be present in fermenting beer

If fermentation is complete the will be less.

Drink the bubbly bit at the top from the test jar

Take your reading

Drink the rest if you want.

 

[Nicknack]

You're recommending not using a wine thief at all? If so, then how do you get beer in the test jar?

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

I know it is not the norm and I am a new brewer also, but I try to allow my sanitized equipment to dry after submerging in Starsan. Drying is recommended on the instructions on the bottle so I believe that it is one "right" way to sanitize, so if you suspect the Starsan, you could allow your wine thief to dry before using it.

 

[treacheroustexan]

Let it sit or maybe blow on it until they disappear.

 

[Nicknack]

Let it sit or maybe blow on it until they disappear.

I've tried doing both to no avail. I let it sit for over an hour last night and still had issues reading the brew.

I know it is not the norm and I am a new brewer also, but I try to allow my sanitized equipment to dry after submerging in Starsan. Drying is recommended on the instructions on the bottle so I believe that it is one "right" way to sanitize, so if you suspect the Starsan, you could allow your wine thief to dry before using it.

I was thinking of possibly doing that because clearly, the bubbles are coming from Starsan. The reason I haven't is my fear of contaminating my brew with something that isn't properly sanitized.

 

[kombat]

I usually take the gravity sample and then let it sit while I do other things (i.e., clean up) and give the bubbles time to dissipate.

I usually only take a gravity sample initially (I collect a sample tube's worth while transferring the chilled wort to the fermenter) and after it's been kegged (I hook up the picnic tap and use it to fill the sample tube). I give it a few minutes to settle, then check the gravity.

 

[MaxStout]

You're recommending not using a wine thief at all? If so, then how do you get beer in the test jar?

No, you use the thief to draw the sample, then transfer it to the test jar. Some people take their hydro readings right inside the thief, but it is better to use the test jar. Give the hydrometer a spin as you put it in the jar, this will throw off some of the bubbles.

Don't sanitize the hydrometer and test jar if you are not returning the sample to the fermenter (which you shouldn't, anyway).

 

[Nicknack]

No, you use the thief to draw the sample, then transfer it to the test jar. Some people take their hydro readings right inside the thief, but it is better to use the test jar. Give the hydrometer a spin as you put it in the jar, this will throw off some of the bubbles.

Don't sanitize the hydrometer and test jar if you are not returning the sample to the fermenter (which you shouldn't, anyway).

That makes sense. Transferring the beer from the wine thief to a non-sanitized test jar I would think would definitely help reduce the amount of bubbles present (especially without the hydrometer being sanitized as well). I no longer return the sample to the primary - people here set me straight on that one a few weeks ago.

Just curious though, why is a test jar better to use?

 

[MaxStout]

Just curious though, why is a test jar better to use?

It's a little bigger in diameter than the typical wine thief, so you have more space between the outside diameter of the hydrometer and the inside diameter of the test jar--less effect from surface tension throwing off the reading. And if your wine thief is like mine, it drips. The test jar allows you to set it aside and take the reading later, if you want.

 

[slym2none]

I guess I am lucky, as brewing small batches, I can't take the loss of beer. I sanitize everything well, take my gravity samples for a reading, then return the sample.

 

[bassclefbrewing]

One thing to keep in mind is that most hydrometers are calibrated to 60F. So its usually a good idea to transfer from the wine theif to the sample jar, then cool the sample in the fridge to get it down to 60F for an accurate gravity reading.

By the time its cooled down the bubbles should be gone!

 

[Gavin C]

You're recommending not using a wine thief at all? If so, then how do you get beer in the test jar?

Thief to collect sample. Jar to measure in

I know it is not the norm and I am a new brewer also, but I try to allow my sanitized equipment to dry after submerging in Starsan. Drying is recommended on the instructions on the bottle so I believe that it is one "right" way to sanitize, so if you suspect the Starsan, you could allow your wine thief to dry before using it.

Starsan is no rinse and works when wet. Best not to use after things have dried. Defeats the purpose of using a no-rinse sanitizer like Starsan

 

[Gavin C]

Just curious though, why is a test jar better to use?

A test jar makes it easy to read the sample at the right temperature, remove bubbles and get the menisus/hydrometer interface at eye level.

It's also very repeatable from one measure to the next.

Right sample temperature for this particular hydrometer

Easy to read

 

[Nicknack]

One more thing...

Is there any reason to sanitize the inside of my wine thief if I don't return the sample? I have been doing this which is why there are lots of bubbles. The more I think about it, I don't see the point as long as I sanitize the outside really well. Not sanitizing the inside should definitely help minimize the amount of bubbles I would think. Thoughts?

 

[Gavin C]

One more thing...

Is there any reason to sanitize the inside of my wine thief if I don't return the sample? I have been doing this which is why there are lots of bubbles. The more I think about it, I don't see the point as long as I sanitize the outside really well. Not sanitizing the inside should definitely help minimize the amount of bubbles I would think. Thoughts?

Sanitize in and out. I chuck my sampler (stainless steel turkey baster) in a bucket of starsan I keep on hand. Bubbles should not be causing you problems. They will dissipate or can be blown/slurped away.

 

[kombat]

That's correct, if you're just going to discard the sample, there's no reason to sanitize it.

EDIT: Of course, you would still sanitize any part of the thief that will be touching the wort (i.e, any exterior surface).

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

Starsan is no rinse and works when wet. Best not to use after things have dried. Defeats the purpose of using a no-rinse sanitizer like Starsan

Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid - I don't want this chemical detergent in my beer.

 

[Gavin C]

Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid - I don't want this chemical detergent in my beer.

Sigh

You probably shouldn't add it to your beer then.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Sigh

So Much This!

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

Please sir, may I have your argument.

 

[BeardedBrews]

Please sir, may I have your argument.

I absolutely adore reading the sanitizer debate threads, but you'd better believe I'm not about to jump in the middle

 

[Nicknack]

On another note... I just got home. I don't have the test jar yet (that I ordered online) but did the other things mentioned in this thread...

I sanitized only the outside of the wine thief (not the inside) and did not sanitize the hydrometer (no need). This cut down on the bubbles a lot. There were still some, but probably about 75% less. Now, if I could just find a hydrometer that had the numbers spaced out more. My vision isn't what it used to be so it can be challenging to read between one tiny mark and another. Instead of every mark being 2, it would be very helpful if every mark was just one - LIKE THE HYDROMETER THAT GAVIN C SHOWED IN HIS PHOTO ON PAGE 2. I looked online but wasn't able to find one. Anyone??

 

[Derp]

Now, if I could just find a hydrometer that had the numbers spaced out more. My vision isn't what it used to be so it can be challenging to read between one tiny mark and another. Instead of every mark being 2, it would be very helpful if every mark was just one - LIKE THE HYDROMETER THAT GAVIN C SHOWED IN HIS PHOTO ON PAGE 2. I looked online but wasn't able to find one. Anyone??

Here's a final gravity hydrometer:

https://www.morebeer.com/products/final-gravity-hydrometer.html

 

[Gavin C]

On another note... I just got home. I don't have the test jar yet (that I ordered online) but did the other things mentioned in this thread...

I sanitized only the outside of the wine thief (not the inside) and did not sanitize the hydrometer (no need). This cut down on the bubbles a lot. There were still some, but probably about 75% less. Now, if I could just find a hydrometer that had the numbers spaced out more. My vision isn't what it used to be so it can be challenging to read between one tiny mark and another. Instead of every mark being 2, it would be very helpful if every mark was just one - LIKE THE HYDROMETER THAT GAVIN C SHOWED IN HIS PHOTO ON PAGE 2. I looked online but wasn't able to find one. Anyone??

Here you go mate.
Narrow range hydrometers from northern brewer.com . A set of three. Very useful indeed.

 

[Nicknack]

Here you go mate.
Narrow range hydrometers from northern brewer.com . A set of three. Very useful indeed.

PERFECT! Thanks, my man. I really appreciate it. My eyes say thanks as well. I will order the kit this evening.

 

[MaxStout]

I have the narrow range bottling (.990-1.020) hydrometer, from Morebeer. It's nice to have .001 resolution. Kind of wish I bought the whole set. Maybe next order.

 

[kombat]

Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid - I don't want this chemical detergent in my beer.

But you're OK with drinking ethyl alcohol, isoamyl acetate, diacetyl, dimethyl sulfate, acetaldehyde, saccharomyces cerevisiae, and other compounds?

Just because a word is long doesn't mean it's bad!

 

[theseeker4]

But you're OK with drinking ethyl alcohol, isoamyl acetate, diacetyl, dimethyl sulfate, acetaldehyde, saccharomyces cerevisiae, and other compounds?

Just because a word is long doesn't mean it's bad!

Personally, I am most worried about too much dihydrogen monoxide in my beer... No session ales for me!

 

[AZCoolerBrewer]

But you're OK with drinking ethyl alcohol, isoamyl acetate, diacetyl, dimethyl sulfate, acetaldehyde, saccharomyces cerevisiae, and other compounds?

Just because a word is long doesn't mean it's bad!

I don't think DDBSA is going to kill me, but it is a surfactant like shampoo or dishwashing liquid or laundry detergent great for what we use it for (cleaning/sanatizing). Not really something I want in my beer though. That's why I follow the instructions on the bottle and let it air dry before I use my brewing equipment.

All those other chemicals you mention people have been eating since before we knew the name of them, except that the collective of them is "beer". Especially the ethyl alcohol, I mean most people don't go to all this trouble to make wort.

Dihydrogen oxide on the other hand, yuck, people all over the world are dying from that stuff. I think that's why they invented beer in the first place.

Disclaimer: I'm really not trying to start any funny business here. I am on the fence about this since everyone including crazy sanitation guy is soaking everything with a Starsan spray bottle. As a new brewer, I am trying to find my way through the woods without just nodding and following the crowd. I believe my position is based on reason, but if someone can convince me based on solid data, I am open to it. I considered starting a thread somewhere else and will if others think the conversation is valid, but don't want to be a troublemaker.

 

[IslandLizard]

^ So if you let the Starsan dry on the equipment, where do you think the "DDBSA" went?

<sigh>

 

[ifnotuthenwho]

I don't think DDBSA is going to kill me, but it is a surfactant like shampoo or dishwashing liquid or laundry detergent great for what we use it for (cleaning/sanatizing). Not really something I want in my beer though. That's why I follow the instructions on the bottle and let it air dry before I use my brewing equipment.

All those other chemicals you mention people have been eating since before we knew the name of them, except that the collective of them is "beer". Especially the ethyl alcohol, I mean most people don't go to all this trouble to make wort.

Dihydrogen oxide on the other hand, yuck, people all over the world are dying from that stuff. I think that's why they invented beer in the first place.

Disclaimer: I'm really not trying to start any funny business here. I am on the fence about this since everyone including crazy sanitation guy is soaking everything with a Starsan spray bottle. As a new brewer, I am trying to find my way through the woods without just nodding and following the crowd. I believe my position is based on reason, but if someone can convince me based on solid data, I am open to it. I considered starting a thread somewhere else and will if others think the conversation is valid, but don't want to be a troublemaker.

Sanitation is very important, I certainly would not tell you otherwise. But I think, as typical with Internet sites, people take it to extremes when talking about it. Should you have your thief sanitized before you put it in your beer? Yes. Do you have to remove it from the sanitizer and make absolutely certain it doesn't come in contact with anything else, and shouldn't be out of the sanitizer for more that 15 seconds? Well no. (Yes that is hyperbole, but you get the idea.)

The main point is keep things clean and yes sanitized. But sanitation is not hard, just use common sense.

 

[deanoaz]

Let it sit or maybe blow on it until they disappear.

I was taught many years ago to spin the hydrometer as you put it into the liquid and that helps remove bubbles from it and makes reading easier.