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Reading a hydrometer???

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Chalkyt

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On an earlier post, I queried the time for a couple of test brews to drop to 1.000. They are the same juice mix but using different yeasts. EC118 seems to be stopped at 1.002 and Nottingham at 1.004 and have been for a few weeks now.

Today I actually read the hydrometer instructions (Duh, if all else fails read the instructions!) and was surprised to see that the reading should be taken from the top of the meniscus. Conventional wisdom of course, says that such readings should be taken from the bottom of the meniscus.

Anyhow the difference between the top and the bottom is .002 - .004 which is sort of the difference between 1.000 and the readings that I am getting. Also a check using plain water shows 1.000 at the top of the meniscus.

Has anyone else found differences in the way that hydrometers are read? I would have expected them to be all the same, and most things that I have read on forums and Dr Google generally say to take the reading from the bottom of the meniscus.
 
Maybe I'm just not "reading" as much into this haha, but it seems to me like it is intuitively the top of the meniscus since it is difficult to see where the lines are at the bottom. I don't have one in front of me measuring right now, but it seems like the difference couldn't be much more then a point. If however it is important, there are hydrometers that come in sets that a much more accurate and easy to read.
 
I usually look at the top and subtract .002. Also, Nottingham may well finish above 1.000. If it's stabile in the .996-1.004 range it's probably done.
 
Thanks Mark. It has been unchanged for a couple of weeks now so it is probably done. This morning is quite cold where the brews are (10C, 50F) as we are getting minus temperatures outside. So by the time I take 0.002 off the hydrometer readings (the hydrometer is calibrated at 20C), it is a safe bet that the secondary has stopped.

I was probably fussing about nothing but had understood that Nottingham will rapidly get down to 1.000. It did fairly quickly get down to 1.004 then seemed to stop.

Anyhow, a few extra weeks in Secondary has probably helped. We have visitors coming to ski this weekend so I have to move the cider outside or bottle it. Sounds like bottling time...yum!
 
I actually stick my hydrometer in water warmed to calibration point and looked to see where 1.000 was. For me it was at the top of the meniscus on the hydrometer. The top was slightly higher the plastic vessel that it was in. For grins I then filled the vessel to over flow so there was a dome of fluid on top ad checked again. This time there was little to no meniscus and the reading was still 1.000. It seems that MY hydrometer was calibrated to read at the top of the meniscus, which makes seance as how do you read the bottom with an opaque liquid with out estimating.
I then found my instructions ( on the back of the ABV guide, who knew they were there?) and it confirmed the "top of the meniscus" reading.
 
Guess I should just verify it with water at the correct temp. before spouting off. Does it say the calib. temp. anywhere on the hydrometer or just the included documentation?
 
My hydrometer instructions say bottom of the meniscus, and it's calibrated to 68 deg f.
I did check it when I got it using RO, seems accurate. My second one (I bought two last time because I broke one!) seems to be high by a point or two, so it's my backup.....
 
Your hydrometer is your friend. In the beginning it tells you how strong your cider might be. Along the way, it tells you how your ferment is doing. At the end you can use it to determine how much priming sugar to add and how much alcohol your cider has in it. Accurate readings and understanding what they mean are essential.

First, don't expect accuracy from cheap hydrometers. Second, it helps to have a hydrometer that covers specific gravity from about 1.070 to less than 1.000. It also helps to have a finish hydrometer that covers a range from about 1.020 to 0.090.

Hydrometers are referenced to pure water at a specific temp, commonly 60 deg Fahrenheit. That means that any dissolved compounds like sugar make pure water denser (higher SG) and any liquids other than water in the mix make it less dense (alcohol) or denser than pure water. The reference temp for every hydrometer I have ever seen is written in fine print on the hydrometer somewhere. If you think about it, cold water is denser than warm water. Salty water is denser than fresh water. A mixture of alcohol and water is less dense than pure water.

Sound complicated? Yep, it is. Don't let that zap your mind. Learn how this simple measurement device works and you will be making accurate measurements. Miss some of those finer points and your hydrometer will make a fool of you.

So in the beginning there is apple juice, a mixture of vegetable solids, dissolved sugar, and water. Your hydrometer is built to reference everything to pure water which means no other liquids mixed in, nothing dissolved in it, and no small particles dispersed in it (e.g. distilled water). Right from the beginning, you probably have some vegetable solids which makes your first reading imprecise if you are trying to gauge how much sugar is in solution. In general, we all ignore this error because there is little you can do to correct it and even if you could it doesn't make much difference.

At the end, it gets a little more complicated. When fermentation stops or slows, you probably have a cider cleared of most vegetable solids but you certainly have a mix of alcohol, water, carbon dioxide, and perhaps a little residual sugar. I see lots of references in these fora to final gravities of less than 1.000. If all the sugar is metabolized to alcohol, you now have a mixture of water and alcohol which is sure to have a SG less than 1.000 since the SG of ethyl alcohol is 0.787. So a mixture of pure water with 5% ethanol should be around 0.989. This would be the case where all the sugar has been converted to alcohol. To make it a little more complicated, if the solution is saturated with CO2, the SG is changed as well.

Don't throw up your hands in despair. All is not lost. First, buy a good general purpose hydrometer. I buy mine from Cole Palmer and they run about $35. I always have two on had since any hydrometer is one careless movement away from a pile of broken glass just when I need it most. I also own a finish hydrometer recommended by my friend Bembel (see his posts) that I bought on Amazon.

De-gas you fermented sample and bring it down to the calibration temp of the hydrometer you are using. I typically heat my sample in a Pyrex measuring cup floating in 180 deg water then agitate it with a power whisk (Amazon again). This removes the CO2 and most of the alcohol. At that point, I know I am working with a mixture of water and sugar (if there is any left), not a mixture of water, alcohol, and sugar.

Finally, I wonder about the manufacturer of your hydrometer. Always measure at the bottom of the meniscus since the top and bottom are related to the diameter of the hydrometer. I suspect yours is made in China and they screwed up the instructions in translation. Mark's advice should be heeded. Test you hydrometer in distilled water and if it deviates from 1.000 at the reference temp, use this as a correction factor.

You can geek it out a little more by mixing up reference solutions of water and salt. See C. Jolicour's excellent manual on making cider.

Some people on this forum just wing it and probably make some fine cider. I like to get into the details but I doubt that my cider gives me a better buzz than theirs.
 

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